25/300 Yard Zero - 200 Yard POI

[mac1911]

I'm not even gonna pretend this is for competition shooting..

I have an ATACR 1-8 and I just need to know that what I am aiming at within 200 yards will neutralize the threat.

Highly dependent of how well you shoot. Can you consistently hold under 6 moa - thats a 12” target at 200 yards.
Zero your particular ammo of choice at 100 yards. Dial up 2 min and hold center of target at 200 and as long you can hold X size groups you can hit X size targets

 

[paul73]

ok, if we started to talk about strelok pro - i think i got a question worth asking.

so, i get to a 100yds with a chrono. i zero it at the 100yds, i get the speed.
i then take this round to the 300yds, i have its both g1 and g7 coefficients, and i am pretty confident the chrono given speed is accurate.
the factual drop at 300yds deviates from the proposed computation from strelok pro.

which way is preferrable to be used there for correction - it offers either to alter the speed, or alter the coefficient. when you deal with sierras or bergers or noslers - there is no real good reason to suspect the coefficient provided by factory to be that much off. there is also no way to say that factual speed differs too much from the measured one neither.
in some scenarios i had factual drops to deviate both ways from the software anticipated - it is possible.

it would be great if anybody who actually uses it and knows from the experience - which way in strelok is proven to be more accurate to proceed with?

 

[mac1911]

ok, if we started to talk about strelok pro - i think i got a question worth asking.

so, i get to a 100yds with a chrono. i zero it at the 100yds, i get the speed.
i then take this round to the 300yds, i have its both g1 and g7 coefficients, and i am pretty confident the chrono given speed is accurate.
the factual drop at 300yds deviates from the proposed computation from strelok pro.

which way is preferrable to be used there for correction - it offers either to alter the speed, or alter the coefficient. when you deal with sierras or bergers or noslers - there is no real good reason to suspect the coefficient provided by factory to be that much off. there is also no way to say that factual speed differs too much from the measured one neither.
in some scenarios i had factual drops to deviate both ways from the software anticipated - it is possible.

it would be great if anybody who actually uses it and knows from the experience - which way in strelok is proven to be more accurate to proceed with?

Are you inputting all the correct atmospheric conditions, elevations, target angles? Any factor for light conditions,

 

[mav]

I think I am going to just go back to a 100 yard zero and just make adjustments for distance from there.

Zero at 50 and you’ll be good at 200 (within a couple of inches) and low at 25 and 300. Zero at 200 and you’ll almost dead on at 50 and about the same for 25 and 300 as the 50 zero. This is my preferred zero for my 16” 5.56 rifles.

 

[Georgiak9]

ok, if we started to talk about strelok pro - i think i got a question worth asking.

so, i get to a 100yds with a chrono. i zero it at the 100yds, i get the speed.
i then take this round to the 300yds, i have its both g1 and g7 coefficients, and i am pretty confident the chrono given speed is accurate.
the factual drop at 300yds deviates from the proposed computation from strelok pro.

which way is preferrable to be used there for correction - it offers either to alter the speed, or alter the coefficient. when you deal with sierras or bergers or noslers - there is no real good reason to suspect the coefficient provided by factory to be that much off. there is also no way to say that factual speed differs too much from the measured one neither.
in some scenarios i had factual drops to deviate both ways from the software anticipated - it is possible.

it would be great if anybody who actually uses it and knows from the experience - which way in strelok is proven to be more accurate to proceed with?

You normally don't mess with the BC unless you're shooting past 600 yards.

 

[Road_Clam]

ok, if we started to talk about strelok pro - i think i got a question worth asking.

so, i get to a 100yds with a chrono. i zero it at the 100yds, i get the speed.
i then take this round to the 300yds, i have its both g1 and g7 coefficients, and i am pretty confident the chrono given speed is accurate.
the factual drop at 300yds deviates from the proposed computation from strelok pro.

which way is preferrable to be used there for correction - it offers either to alter the speed, or alter the coefficient. when you deal with sierras or bergers or noslers - there is no real good reason to suspect the coefficient provided by factory to be that much off. there is also no way to say that factual speed differs too much from the measured one neither.
in some scenarios i had factual drops to deviate both ways from the software anticipated - it is possible.

it would be great if anybody who actually uses it and knows from the experience - which way in strelok is proven to be more accurate to proceed with?

I take Strelok with a grain of salt. It seems sometimes Stry's calcs are spot on and I can nail a 10 ring at 12 oclock , cold bore at 600 yds. Other outings, same rifle, same handloads i'll have to work harder as I only score an 8 at 10:30 ? It's just the real life shooting variables that I'm striving to get better at correcting as required. I bought the "Pro" as I needed the additional allowences for more rifle configurations. I even have my crossbows configured in Strelok

 

[mac1911]

I take Strelok with a grain of salt. It seems sometimes Stry's calcs are spot on and I can nail a 10 ring at 12 oclock , cold bore at 600 yds. Other outings, same rifle, same handloads i'll have to work harder as I only score an 8 at 10:30 ? It's just the real life shooting variables that I'm striving to get better at correcting as required. I bought the "Pro" as I needed the additional allowences for more rifle configurations. I even have my crossbows configured in Strelok

theres a saying for lighting conditions IIRC it goes like this lights up sights up lights down sights down.
When ia very bright condition you tend to shoot low , in darker conditions you tend to shoot high.
I never shot well enough to notice some of the minor effects on light.
Heck I have heard bench rest shooters say if you zero at high noon sun and later the sun is coming in from 3-9 oclock it can toss your zero off a 1/2 min or so.
The more notes you log especially at different ranges even the line position on the range can toss you off.

 

[paul73]

You normally don't mess with the BC unless you're shooting past 600 yards.

that would be logical, but i was only curious of what do people actually use.
so far it looks from the lack of responses that no one is using the correction feature. it is interesting.

 

[FalArAk]

He’s showing how bullet drop affects the longer distance, hence 4 mins.

Say if I want to zero my rifle at 100 yards, can I just zero 1" low at 50 or 2" low at 25 and it should be nuts at 100?

I was using post #13 silhouette as reference, so I am guessing at the measurements. I am not the greatest marksman, and trying to zero at 100yds can get expensive using mk262

 

[Mesatchornug]

Say if I want to zero my rifle at 100 yards, can I just zero 1" low at 50 or 2" low at 25 and it should be nuts at 100?

I was using post #13 silhouette as reference, so I am guessing at the measurements. I am not the greatest marksman, and trying to zero at 100yds can get expensive using mk262

Why not practice with something cheaper (say M193) and get that zeroed at 100? Then, when you're feeling more comfortable, you can re-zero with the mk262 (which should be on paper, at least).

 

[FalArAk]

Why not practice with something cheaper (say M193) and get that zeroed at 100? Then, when you're feeling more comfortable, you can re-zero with the mk262 (which should be on paper, at least).

Isn't there a major difference between the POI of 55 grain versus 77 grain ammo? I want to zero with what I will use for WW3

Once I zero, I do use m193 for the range time practice..

 

[Mesatchornug]

Isn't there a major difference between the POI of 55 grain versus 77 grain ammo? I want to zero with what I will use for WW3

Once I zero, I do use m193 for the range time practice..

I'm sure there's a difference in POI. You'll need to learn that difference eventually, if you're going to practice with the 193 on a rifle zeroed for 262. I guess I was just thinking that if you practice enough with the cheap stuff to get confident that you know how to zero, you should be able to re-zero with the 262 in 5-10 shots. (You could even do the "2-shot zero" if you're sufficiently confident.)

 

[PappyM3]

ok, if we started to talk about strelok pro - i think i got a question worth asking.

so, i get to a 100yds with a chrono. i zero it at the 100yds, i get the speed.
i then take this round to the 300yds, i have its both g1 and g7 coefficients, and i am pretty confident the chrono given speed is accurate.
the factual drop at 300yds deviates from the proposed computation from strelok pro.

which way is preferrable to be used there for correction - it offers either to alter the speed, or alter the coefficient. when you deal with sierras or bergers or noslers - there is no real good reason to suspect the coefficient provided by factory to be that much off. there is also no way to say that factual speed differs too much from the measured one neither.
in some scenarios i had factual drops to deviate both ways from the software anticipated - it is possible.

it would be great if anybody who actually uses it and knows from the experience - which way in strelok is proven to be more accurate to proceed with?

First, for BCs, I validate the Strelok and manufacturer numbers against Applied Ballistics. They do independent testing of BCs.

But, for the question of truing against MV or BC? I generally try velocity first to see how it aligns with real world dope. If I can’t get it to match, I try BC.

I generally don’t touch truing right away with initial DOPE at distance. Because so many factors can take effect out at mid-long range. Like a warm spot creating a thermal updraft, or wind rising up over a slight hill. I try to sample a couple different times, at different targets/ranges.

I will say, before doing any truing, make sure both spin drift and coreolis options are enabled. Functionally, at mid ranges they don’t make too much difference on steel targets. But when trying to really get precise with a trued trajectory, they matter.

Lastly, my initial method of rough truing before I gather longer range dope is to zero at 50 or 100 (depending on optic/gun). And then I verify at 200. Using that 200 yard offset, I tell Strelok I zeroed at 200, and put the offset in. This way, it helps minimize tiny offsets at 50 or 100 that I may not have been able to observe well because the groups are so small. By using the actual drop at 200, I feel like my zero is more accurate. I keep windage the same from my 50 or 100 yard zeros though. The wind at 200 is a factor so I try to ignore it for zeroing.

 

[PatMcD]

Isn't there a major difference between the POI of 55 grain versus 77 grain ammo? I want to zero with what I will use for WW3

Once I zero, I do use m193 for the range time practice..

Out to 200 yards, the difference is negligible. It's different for sure, but shots would still be on the same pie plate. Probably out to 300, even.