Streloc is telling me you should be impacting about 2" LOW at 200 yds with 25 yd zero. Another Typical 223 AR ballistics zero option will zero at 50 yds , and then be on at 200. Whats your method and gear for shooting the 300 yd groups ? Prone ? Benchrest ?
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25/300 Yard Zero - 200 Yard POI
- Thread starter FalArAk
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This is really what it boils down to if you're looking to be as precise as possible with your setup.
A lot of folks are swearing by the 50/200 zero. And there is good reason for that. Thats an average and easy round numbers to remember for a lot of rifles and a lot of different ammo that will work to combat effective target size. If you want to get down into the weeds and get what is the best zero for your exact setup, you may find that your rifle might have its best MPBR with a 41, 45, 37, etc. yard zero instead of 50. Are you gaining all that much in the real world by getting that nitty gritty and trying to find the exact point where the center or your groups are zero'd at 43 yards instead of 50? Probably most of us will not need to get that picky. 50 would probably be far easier and produce about the same results as far as we can really take advantage of.
I happen to be a little it more obsessed with being as precise as possible. More than my mediocre shooting skills can appreciate, anyway. But thats part of the fun for me. So if my rifle, ammo, and scope setup will give me the best MPBR with a 43 yard zero instead of the average 50 yard zero, I do try to get 40 yard zero even though 50 would work well too.
That said, whether you choose the 25, 50, or go full OCD and pick the 37 yard zero like me, make sure you take it out to 100-300 for final tuning. The center of your group at 25 yards could look dead on but be quite a bit off once you get out to some longer distance.
Good catch, i was reading Streloks moa corrective chart, i thought i was looking at the bullet drop chart . I was wondering why the numbers seemed a bit off in my head.
Dennis in MA
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shouldn't be that high, pug in your number, you should be at most plus or minus a couple inches
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"I thet my thights on 300 yards always."Your missing the Battle Zero "specs" your going to get hits on target TORSO size with out chaging your hold or sight adjustments this is for a 50yd zero a 25 yard zero is going to be a little different but same concept.
What you want to do is learn your come ups which are slightly different for that point of aim shot.
basic come ups from 100 zero - this will get you close to dial in your specific ammo/rifle/skills/lighting and so on. Even your position will change your come ups or a need to change them.
But ballistically these will get you closer than a Battle zero or Point Blank Rank
so 100 yard zero come ups
100-200 2min
200-300 2 min
300-400 3 min
400-500 4 min
500-600 4 min
then everything in between. You fine tune from there
"And why is that, Jeff?"
"Becuth I like to start shootin at 400 yards and hit em in the penith."
Question for the OP. What sights are you using? If you are using something like a vortex green/ red dot that is 2.5-3” above centerline of rifle bore, I could easily why a 25 yd zero could be way high at 200 yds.
ReluctantDecoy
NES Member
Take this with a grain of salt, as I've never personally shot out 200 yards, but this target is saying your 12" high hit at 200 isn't all that off on with a 25 yard zero. Source: Is Your Carbine’s Zero Wrong? - The Armory Life
Also need to understand how the concept of MOA works. At 25 yds every 1 MOA is equal to a 1/4" of poi shift. At 300 yds every 1 MOA is equal to 3" poi shift. So if your impacting 3/4" high at 25 yds that equals 9" high at 300 yds (by MOA theory math)
I have a moa brain because its what i learned first. I can easily run moa dopes in my head. I struggle with a Mills optic . I find myself always calculating moas then trying to convert moa values to mills. 1 moa = 3.4 mills
Yup , I have MOA brain and scopes
Sure mil is a bit easier being powers if 10.
1 MOA = 1.047”
1 mil = 3.6”
Fun stuff
Often a go back to a little more that way as I point in the direction of correction
It should only be about 5-6” high at 200 with 77gr out of a 16”. With a 2.75” height over bore.
But that’s with an actual zero at 300 yards, not 25. The whole 25/300 thing is a VERY rough estimate that doesn’t really work exactly with most barrel/ammo combinations.
A 25 yard zero with a 16” shooting 77gr SMK 5.56 will be ~10” high at 200. So that sounds like your problem.
And that value will change depending on your optic’s height over bore, and it will be higher if you’re shooting 223 instead of 5.56z
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The big question is why do you want to zero at 300? What are your use cases?
Zero at 100 if you want the flattest trajectory out to 100, or have a reticle for drops.
Zero at 200 for a general purpose trajectory out to 250 or so.
Zero at 300 if you only care about being on an e-type silhouette out to 350 or so. But that’s only good on a range. In real life, threats rarely present themselves from cover enough to give you that size target.
ATACR 1-8? With that reticle, you’re doing yourself a disservice by not zeroing at 100.I'm not even gonna pretend this is for competition shooting..
I have an ATACR 1-8 and I just need to know that what I am aiming at within 200 yards will neutralize the threat.
300 yard zeros are for red dots/duplex reticles with no drops.
The default for reticles like the NF 1-8 should be 100, and the. Adjust up to 200 yard zero if you want to tune where certain ranges are on the mil tree.
All my opinion of course, but based on my experiences with UKD shooting on and off range.
Adjustments and reticles with a numbering system that’s base ten is handy once you get used to it.
But I still think in MOA too. And for many (most) who grew up on MOA, there’s little reason to change.
it would be a great mistake to think (c) v.i.Lenin.
strelok pro made all thinking obsolete, really. it does not matter anymore what it is - it even shows the reticle on the screen, if you cannot read numbers.
it would be a great mistake to think (c) v.i.Lenin.
strelok pro made all thinking obsolete, really. it does not matter anymore what it is - it even shows the reticle on the screen, if you cannot read numbers.
This is why i always construct a dope card. Electronics while convenient, can fail. One time a had all my dope calculated in Strelok for 300, 500 and 600 yds, and on a hot July afternoon my phone overheated and shut down. Effectively ending my 500 and 600 yd relays as i was new to midrange , and did not have a backup dope card.
Strelok is great to give you an idea of what the dope will end up being, but it is not dope.it would be a great mistake to think (c) v.i.Lenin.
strelok pro made all thinking obsolete, really. it does not matter anymore what it is - it even shows the reticle on the screen, if you cannot read numbers.
Mostly though, Strelok does not help when you’re making on the fly corrections or ranging when on the gun.
Its going to change some anytime you change the ammo type and spec.
Good point though.
Anyone should take the time see when you change ammo how do your impacts change. This is for a BZO or PBR and your not going to fiddle with the sights
Zero for say 77 gn at 2650 fps then run some 55 or 62 and see where it impacts with your 77 zero.
Try to keep this in your notes
I use luggage tags to keep notes hamdy
This is where standard or close enough “comeups” come in handy.
I use a luggage tag on my sling swivel or print out “dope” onto the lens protector cap inserts. Comes in handy to get you on target.
It comes down to real world data
Now that i've spent a lot of time shooting the F Class matches, I pretty much have backup "mental" dopes that will get me into scoring rings with a typical .30 cal 2700ish fps . For 300-500-600 it's "3/10/15" in MOA from my standard 200 yd zero.
