ok, if we started to talk about strelok pro - i think i got a question worth asking.
so, i get to a 100yds with a chrono. i zero it at the 100yds, i get the speed.
i then take this round to the 300yds, i have its both g1 and g7 coefficients, and i am pretty confident the chrono given speed is accurate.
the factual drop at 300yds deviates from the proposed computation from strelok pro.
which way is preferrable to be used there for correction - it offers either to alter the speed, or alter the coefficient. when you deal with sierras or bergers or noslers - there is no real good reason to suspect the coefficient provided by factory to be that much off. there is also no way to say that factual speed differs too much from the measured one neither.
in some scenarios i had factual drops to deviate both ways from the software anticipated - it is possible.
it would be great if anybody who actually uses it and knows from the experience - which way in strelok is proven to be more accurate to proceed with?
First, for BCs, I validate the Strelok and manufacturer numbers against Applied Ballistics. They do independent testing of BCs.
But, for the question of truing against MV or BC? I generally try velocity first to see how it aligns with real world dope. If I can’t get it to match, I try BC.
I generally don’t touch truing right away with initial DOPE at distance. Because so many factors can take effect out at mid-long range. Like a warm spot creating a thermal updraft, or wind rising up over a slight hill. I try to sample a couple different times, at different targets/ranges.
I will say, before doing any truing, make sure both spin drift and coreolis options are enabled. Functionally, at mid ranges they don’t make too much difference on steel targets. But when trying to really get precise with a trued trajectory, they matter.
Lastly, my initial method of rough truing before I gather longer range dope is to zero at 50 or 100 (depending on optic/gun). And then I verify at 200. Using that 200 yard offset, I tell Strelok I zeroed at 200, and put the offset in. This way, it helps minimize tiny offsets at 50 or 100 that I may not have been able to observe well because the groups are so small. By using the actual drop at 200, I feel like my zero is more accurate. I keep windage the same from my 50 or 100 yard zeros though. The wind at 200 is a factor so I try to ignore it for zeroing.