Workbench finish

[pdm]

So yesterday I decided that I needed to build a little workbench that would fit over a couple of small filing cabinets so I would have a place to clean my guns that isn't my computer desk. After some swearing, it all went together, and looks OK. I figured I'd stain the top then polyurethane it, but is there a better finish for the surface than polyurethane? Or should I just slather on a couple of thick layers of poly and call it done? I'm thinking about all the solvents that will probably end up on the top. Any suggestions from NES woodworkers?

 

[hminsky]

So yesterday I decided that I needed to build a little workbench that would fit over a couple of small filing cabinets so I would have a place to clean my guns that isn't my computer desk. After some swearing, it all went together, and looks OK. I figured I'd stain the top then polyurethane it, but is there a better finish for the surface than polyurethane? Or should I just slather on a couple of thick layers of poly and call it done? I'm thinking about all the solvents that will probably end up on the top. Any suggestions from NES woodworkers?

I had some Tung oil I got for refinishing a carbine stock, and I used some for the surface of the workbench I made. I like it a lot better than polyurethane.

 

[EddieCoyle]

I'd go with the poly (3 coats with a foam brush). It'll seal better than a penetrating finish like Tung oil.

 

[pdm]

The poly will be able to withstand Hoppes #9 and CLP abuse? I'm completely clueless when it comes to chemicals and solvents.

 

[ArmedMainer]

The poly will be able to withstand Hoppes #9 and CLP abuse? I'm completely clueless when it comes to chemicals and solvents.

I would consider reading up on Hoppes #9 before I used it without proper ventilation. I stopped using it altogether.

 

[kevin9]

I put a layer of hardboard on top of my workbench. No staining or poly needed. If/when it gets chopped up I can replace that part of the top.

 

[SKS Ray]

I'd screw down a sheet of plywood and do like mentioned, just replace it when it gets bad.
You can buy cleaning mats that are made for absorbing solvents . I used to have one tacked down on my bench but it got full of cosmolene quick.

 

[pdm]

I would consider reading up on Hoppes #9 before I used it without proper ventilation. I stopped using it altogether.

I always crack open a window when cleaning. Don't really like the headache from the smell.

 

[EddieCoyle]

Poly is the most solvent-resistant of all the common finishes. Epoxy is the only thing better. My questions are:

1. Why do you care how it looks after solvent gets to it?
2. If you do care, can't you just hit it with a sander and refinish?

My bench top is unfinished MDF. I figure if it gets too ugly (what, 50 years from now?) I'll replace the friggin' thing. You're not building a church PDM - let it get ugly. Jesus, a bench is supposed to look like a bench. You're not going to be serving Easter Dinner on the thing.

 

[RKG]

I've left the top of my benches, which are used in part for gun cleaning, unfinished. Basically, two reasons:

A) These benches are work tools. They aren't on display, and I don't want to start worrying about them.

B) Some solvent, oil, and other stuff will spill (from gun cleaning and other operations), and I've found over the years that this just gives the bench tops a bit of character.

See http://northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1408&highlight=RKG+bench&page=2

which includes a photo of one of the benches.

 

[Tiktock]

I have a nearly 20' wraparound bench i use for all my knifemaking. Its just a plywood finish...after all, im beating on it, spilling crap on it, and it doesnt need to shine! The only area that is kept clean and has a finish is where i do leatherwork which stains easy.

For nasty chemicals, I went to a carpet store that was going out of business. They gave me almost 200 rectangles of carpet samples that are about 1.5X2 feet. I do all my cleaning and messy work on one, then just throw it away.

The nicest bench finish i've seen is to go to an industrial place and buy a big bucket of the thick clear glaze they use on bartops...its basically a resin and you can buy it in large quantities. The fumes are brutal, though......

 

[SKS Ray]

The nicest bench finish i've seen is to go to an industrial place and buy a big bucket of the thick clear glaze they use on bartops...its basically a resin and you can buy it in large quantities. The fumes are brutal, though......

I did a floor for my boat with Evercoat Resin. I put on 3 layers and it builds thick. I don't think anything could eat through that stuff but you're right, it does smell bad for a while.

 

[rscalzo]

I buy the rolls of HD shelf liner at Walmart and cut three foot lengths. The width is enough to cover the entire bench and will not allow any chemicals to pass through to the wood top. I get at least four or five sheets from each roll for about $5.00 and roll. It great when gun cleaning time rolls around. When done I just wipe the sheet clean using a paper towel and Simple Green.

 

[JimB]

if possible

Instead of finishing it, hows bout a sheet of formica, its very easy
to clean and not affected by gun solvents.......

i made mine from countertops that were given to me.

JimB

 

[Coyote33]

Why not just finish it with gun oil in a camo pattern? (-;

Really, the stains are like tattoos gathered through the years.

 

[PaulD]

I put a layer of hardboard on top of my workbench. No staining or poly needed. If/when it gets chopped up I can replace that part of the top.

If you put poly on hardboard (I assume you mean the brown stuff often called "masonite") it makes a really hard surface that stands up well.

 

[PaulD]

I'd go with the poly (3 coats with a foam brush). It'll seal better than a penetrating finish like Tung oil.

Steel wool works very well between coats to make it smooth.

 

[JimB]

3m pads

Steel wool works very well between coats to make it smooth.

steel wool leave strands behind that can at a later date rust and
ruin your finishing job.

YMMV

JimB

 

[kevin9]

If you put poly on hardboard (I assume you mean the brown stuff often called "masonite") it makes a really hard surface that stands up well.

Thanks. I thought about that but for my case it wasn't worth the time, cost and effort. The workbench is in my workshop in the barn so the WAF* for it to "look good" is nil.

It's been there for +5 years now and I use it quite regularly for everything from woodworking to gun cleaning. It's got some stains, and a few small chips and scratches, but nothing anywhere close to needing replacement. I expect it to go another +5 years before having to replace any of the top.

p.s. Yes, masonite (brand name) is hardboard (generic name).
*Wife Acceptance Factor

 

[PaulD]

steel wool leave strands behind that can at a later date rust and
ruin your finishing job.

YMMV

JimB

I've done lots of wood finishing and never had a problem assuming the coat is allowed to fully dry and a tack cloth and/or compressed air is used after steel wool.