What's my best option for heating if the power goes out?

[TonyDedo]

First let me preface this by saying I'm woefully ignorant of how gas, electric and HVAC systems work, so if you could bear with me and my basic questions, and answer so that a 5th grader reading at an 8th grade level could understand...

One of my biggest survival concerns is losing heat for a prolonged period of time. I live in a townhouse with central air/heat on a municipal gas line. It's never been a huge concern before because our town's power grid is very stable, and frankly I'm very tolerant of the cold and wouldn't mind waiting out a power outage with warm clothes and blankets. However, I now have a wife and infant daughter who aren't as tolerant as I am, and I'd like to explore my options.

As of right now, we do not have a generator. I assume an electric heater on a generator would be my best option, but for the time being lets assume I'm not ready to invest in a generator.

The house does not have a wood burning fireplace, and installing one is not an option. I hope to remedy this when we move to a bigger home, but for now it's off the table.

So that being said, what are my other options for heating during a power outage?

And if I were to buy a generator, would it be practical to hook it up to the houses central heating, or would that be inefficient?

Thanks for the help!!!

 

[Eta-Carinae]

You state that yo do not have a wood burning fireplace. Do you have a gas fireplace?

 

[TonyDedo]

You state that yo do not have a wood burning fireplace. Do you have a gas fireplace?

No fireplace of any type, and cannot make modifications to the house structure to install one.

 

[honestgypsy]

First let me preface this by saying I'm woefully ignorant of how gas, electric and HVAC systems work, so if you could bear with me and my basic questions, and answer so that a 5th grader reading at an 8th grade level could understand...

One of my biggest survival concerns is losing heat for a prolonged period of time. I live in a townhouse with central air/heat on a municipal gas line. It's never been a huge concern before because our town's power grid is very stable, and frankly I'm very tolerant of the cold and wouldn't mind waiting out a power outage with warm clothes and blankets. However, I now have a wife and infant daughter who aren't as tolerant as I am, and I'd like to explore my options.

As of right now, we do not have a generator. I assume an electric heater on a generator would be my best option, but for the time being lets assume I'm not ready to invest in a generator.

The house does not have a wood burning fireplace, and installing one is not an option. I hope to remedy this when we move to a bigger home, but for now it's off the table.

So that being said, what are my other options for heating during a power outage?

And if I were to buy a generator, would it be practical to hook it up to the houses central heating, or would that be inefficient?

Thanks for the help!!!

Tony, just from your own qoutes.

woefully ignorant of how gas, electric and HVAC systems work,
It's never been a huge concern before because our town's power grid is very stable
I'm very tolerant of the cold and wouldn't mind waiting out a power outage with warm clothes and blankets
I'm not ready to invest in a generator

>And if I were to buy a generator, would it be practical to hook it up to the houses central heating, or would that be inefficient?

don't buy a generator. It will be major headache.

 

[TonyDedo]

don't buy a generator. It will be major headache.

I realize this, which is why I'm not ready to invest in a generator, because it would require a lot of research self education. However, if it turns out it's my best option to ensure I'm able to keep my 6 month old daughter warm, it may be worth the headache.

As I said, I tolerate the cold well, but a 6 month old that you can't wrap in blankets (choking hazard) does not.

 

[gunslinger2a]

no, wood stove or fireplace
no electricity. no generator

Sounds to me like your only alternative is a propane heater. They have infrared ones that put out about 1000 BTUs I don't know how well it would heat the whole house though, or if they might need to be vented (so you don't all die from CO2)

 

[honestgypsy]

I realize this, which is why I'm not ready to invest in a generator, because it would require a lot of research self education. However, if it turns out it's my best option to ensure I'm able to keep my 6 month old daughter warm, it may be worth the headache.

As I said, I tolerate the cold well, but a 6 month old that you can't wrap in blankets (choking hazard) does not.

you must be kidding man.

Requires research and education

 

[DavidC77]

I would say if you can do it safely get those Propane heaters that mount off of a propane tank...

OR (this would be better)

If you have some way of chaining (so no one steals it) a small generator outside get one of those and buy a few cords, run them into a few of those electric heat units, if you want to get all cuddaly you can buy one of those electric fire places...

There's not much you can do with condo's or apartments...

Good Luck

 

[Coyote33]

One thing you CAN DO, however, if it is stormy and you anticipate power going out; is to turn your thermostat up higher than you normally have it. That way, if the power SHOULD go out, the house is starting off warmer than it would normally be, and that will carry you a bit longer. The last storm, I turned mine all the way up to 70 I think on Saturday. Usually, on a weekend day, ours is around 64. In fact, if it is REALLY nasty, I would have no problem going up to 75. If you like it warm, you could adjust for your own needs. Another way to "store heat" would be to fill the bathtub with hot water. That would also carry you for several hours longer. Maybe you can convince your wife to do some baking during the storm. Having a hot oven is another way to heat up a bunch of metal, and keep the house warmer, longer. Plus brownies make the cold feel nicer.

 

[Nuke8401]

Since you have gas which normally stays on during a power outage, a vent free gas heater might be an option. Make sure it requirers no electricity to operate and has an auto shutdown on hi CO. A vented heater would be safer in my opinion but would require an exhaust.

 

[DMWB]

One thing you CAN DO, however, if it is stormy and you anticipate power going out; is to turn your thermostat up higher than you normally have it. That way, if the power SHOULD go out, the house is starting off warmer than it would normally be, and that will carry you a bit longer. The last storm, I turned mine all the way up to 70 I think on Saturday. Usually, on a weekend day, ours is around 64. In fact, if it is REALLY nasty, I would have no problem going up to 75. If you like it warm, you could adjust for your own needs. Another way to "store heat" would be to fill the bathtub with hot water. That would also carry you for several hours longer. Maybe you can convince your wife to do some baking during the storm. Having a hot oven is another way to heat up a bunch of metal, and keep the house warmer, longer. Plus brownies make the cold feel nicer.

This is point-for-point exactly what my wife and I do to prepare, since we don't yet have a generator and our heat is oil-fired forced hot water which requires electricity.

One thing to note: the higher your internal temperature, the faster heat loss occurs. In other words, the house will cool faster from 75 to 70 than it will from 65 to 60. Still, it is better to start off as warm as possible if a power loss is expected.

 

[Fixxah]

I don't worry about power outages, but the neighbors can't stand the daily test startups.

Was going to say burn wood but sounds like a HOA to me.

Grats on the wife and little one.

 

[rutilate]

If you have gas stove/oven, why not light those and at least keep the kitchen and adjacent room warm? With this option you are probably better off than many. Close all the other doors or put up blankets over the entryways to other rooms. Get a CO detector if you are worried.

 

[Fixxah]

If you have gas stove/oven, why not light those and at least keep the kitchen and adjacent room warm? With this option you are probably better off than many. Close all the other doors or put up blankets over the entryways to other rooms. Get a CO detector if you are worried.

Just leave a note so they know who to call with the death notice.

 

[SpaceCritter]

I don't worry about power outages, but the neighbors can't stand the daily test startups.

Yours exercises daily? Ours does once a week.

 

[appraiser]

being in a condo has its limitations, if you could get a weatherproof outlet installed on the outside of the building, and a wire to the breaker box, you could have an electrician install a small transfer panel and wire it for the heating plant (assuming it is 120v) fridge and a lighting circuit. Then 900 bucks gets you a small honda inverter that weighs 48 pounds and is the size of a small suitcase.

The biggest obstacle to that is gasoline. you would need 2 gallons a day to fuel it, and the ability to store gasoline SAFELY in that type of building is next to impossible.

The other option is a deep cycle marine battery and an converter/inverter with an electrician installing a single circuit transfer switch for the heating plant.

easiest option is to bug out.

 

[SalemCat]

Home Heating Forced Hot Air, or Forced Hot Water use electricity, but not a lot of it.

Ask an Electrician if they can rig it so that if the power goes out, you can plug into a Generator. I'm thinking some cheap $100 - $200 Gasoline Generator would do fine. Sit it OUTSIDE, and run a Heavy Duty Extension Cord to the Furnace/Pump/Fan.

The Generator would not be powering the whole house, just the Furnace.

Maybe they can install a metal box with a Switch so the Furnace can choose where the electricity is coming from - Normal Line vs External Generator.

I really hope you have Forced Hot Air. Because if Forced Hot Water is idle for any length of time, some portion of the piping is going to freeze. Once that occurs, no water can flow. You are screwed even if power is restored.

The way around that is have a Plumber fill the system with Anti-Freeze. Even Home Depot sells it. It's tough to get into the system without a special pump.

You could get through an event this way, until your Oil Tank depletes. And you'd have to be re-filling the Gas Tank on that little generator every few hours. But it's better than freezing.

 

[JamesD]

TD,
We live in the same town. Although I have only been a resident for the last two years, and my sample size is small, I do not expect our power to be down for an extended period of time. We have a had a few good storms during the last two autumns, and the we lost power only once. It was restored within 10 hours. Our municipal light department is quite competent. In my opinion, a prolonged power outage would occur only as the result of a catastrophic storm/event.

Given that you are planning to move to a more permanent residence in the near future, I would hold off on investing in a generator. Until then, make plans to temporarily relocate your family.

And if you are going to take some of the advice that you have been given regarding gas ranges and space heaters, don't, and make sure you have CO detectors in your townhouse.

 

[icyclefar]

Since you have gas which normally stays on during a power outage, a vent free gas heater might be an option. Make sure it requirers no electricity to operate and has an auto shutdown on hi CO. A vented heater would be safer in my opinion but would require an exhaust.

This is absolutely an option.

I had one in the last house to heat the finished basement. Worked very well and did not require AC.

Can be bought as a free standing stove, so down the road you can take it with you when you move.

Buy a quality unit!

 

[Coyote33]

being in a condo has its limitations, if you could get a weatherproof outlet installed on the outside of the building, and a wire to the breaker box, you could have an electrician install a small transfer panel and wire it for the heating plant (assuming it is 120v) fridge and a lighting circuit. Then 900 bucks gets you a small honda inverter that weighs 48 pounds and is the size of a small suitcase. ...

The Honda is $999, the Generac version is only $699:
FREE SHIPPING — Generac Inverter — 2200 Surge Watts, 2000 Rated Watts

 

[n1bsbri]

Another good option would be a kerosene heater. You would use 1-2 gallons a day to heat the main floor of the house. It's easy to store a couple of 5 gallon cans in a shed, or even outside under a small tarp. The heaters don't require a vent, and when used correctly are almost odor free. The advantage is they are very efficient compared to propane, and more convenient to use than wood, especially for emergency use.

Lots of info at this site: Miles Stair's Wick Shop. Miles is a bit of a prepper if you poke around on his site.

 

[coastie]

If you have natural gas then having a small heater that runs without electricity is the way to go. Either vented (preferred) or ventless. Talk to you plumber or gas company. I am willing to bet they are getting lots of questions about this after the storm. You also want something that is easy to operate and set up so that your wife can do it if you are away or unable to do so. Those little HOnda gennies are slick and sip fuel. If you go that route remember that the gennie does not have to be run constantly. You can fire it up for an hour to run the heat and then shut it off for a few hours and then restart it again. Saves a lot of fuel that way. I believe these can also be converted to propane. Buy a spare 30 lb cylinder for your grill and you would have enough fuel for a couple days.

 

[P-14]

If you have gas stove/oven, why not light those and at least keep the kitchen and adjacent room warm? With this option you are probably better off than many. Close all the other doors or put up blankets over the entryways to other rooms. Get a CO detector if you are worried.

This. Use a match to light the gas stove if it has electric starters. Also, oil lamps also add BTUs to the room and create light as well. I have 3 good-sized Dietz lanterns and if the room door is closed, the room stays warm.

 

[Prepper]

The Honda is $999, the Generac version is only $699:
FREE SHIPPING — Generac Inverter — 2200 Surge Watts, 2000 Rated Watts

Furnaces normally require 220v, so these little inverters won't be what you want.

See if you can hook a gas heater to your natural gas line. Natural gas is very reliable in an outage.

Second choice would be portable propane heaters, perhaps even a small one like the Mr Heater. The 20lb tank is supposed to remain outside, so keep that in mind (or not, if you are careful and don't tell anyone). I'd suggest run the tube through a cracked open window with a towel to block the rest of the crack. Note that the valves on those little 1lb tanks love to leak! I have had several leak in the last year just sitting there. Two of the larger Mr Heater units should be enough for most condos.

Third choice kerosene heater. I have one and have used it successfully on several outages, plus heating for a cabin. Kero Sun is what I have. Of course, illegal in MA, so don't tell anyone.

 

[brimed]

Take a look at Kerosene heaters. They throw a lot of heat and don't need to be vented. They do stink for the first few minutes after lighting so put near a window and crack it a bit until the heat starts kicking in.

 

[Terrys]

OP, I think the your best and safest bet is a small inverter generator, as has been previously mentioned. Although it has also been stated that furnaces normally require 220v, mine certainly does not. It's a forced hot air furnace that runs on 120v and has its own 15 amp circuit. During the blizzard, I ran a $999 Honda 2000i inverter generator to power it, a few lights, my fridge, my computers and, by switching items off, my freezer and TV at times. If you have a deck, you could run it out there. If you have a natural gas connection, say, for a gas barbeque, you could get a conversion kit for the generator for about $300 which would allow you to use propane, natural gas or gasoline for fuel. Or you could buy the generator already converted. Using natural gas or propane would solve the gasoline storage problem. If you decide to go with a generator, please have an electrician help you with connections. It really isn't difficult.

 

[dwarven1]

Since you have gas which normally stays on during a power outage, a vent free gas heater might be an option. Make sure it requirers no electricity to operate and has an auto shutdown on hi CO. A vented heater would be safer in my opinion but would require an exhaust.

I believe that they also have free-standing ones that look like fireplaces. Very romantic if you want to get a headstart on #2!

One thing to note: the higher your internal temperature, the faster heat loss occurs. In other words, the house will cool faster from 75 to 70 than it will from 65 to 60.

What?? Can you explain the mechanism for this? Doesn't seem to make sense.

Another good option would be a kerosene heater.

NO.

Please, Chris - do NOT go with kero. First off, they stink. And second off, I've gone to one funeral for an entire family thanks to one of these inventions of the devil; I'd rather not go to another. (little girl wasn't warm enough in her bedroom so she went to the living room where the kero heater was; the investigators think that she let a corner of her blanket drape on or near the kero heater... which started the fire that killed her entire family. Seven closed caskets.)

 

[MetalgodZ]

Easiest options are going to be illegal and/or dangerous (indoor propane tank heater or kerosene heater).

While not really recommended, using the stove can be effective, so long as you're not using it unattended, you're not using it any longer than you'd use it to cook, and you're not using the open flames on the top. Don't do it without a CO detector, but don't feel like you can't bake a loaf of bread or slow cook something to add some heat to the house.

Next easiest you'll need to either buy a generator and be prepared to spend quite a bit in gasoline for a small return in heat (electric heat).

Other options requiring minimal structural modifications:
- Wall-mount gas heater (lots of heat, minimal modifications and investment, will last as long as the gas does, but not sure they're available ventless in MA)
- Pellet heater and generator (lots of heat, expensive initial investment, only one hole to put in the side of the house, but can drop your overall heating costs significantly)
- Wall-mount propane heater with outdoor 100lb tank (less heat, less initial investment, only one smaller hole to put in the side of the house)

What?? Can you explain the mechanism for this? Doesn't seem to make sense.

Change in temperature in degrees is greater per time unit when the difference between the hot and cold sides is greater.

If it takes 6 hours to go from 70* to 60* (10* difference), it will take less than 12 hours to go from 80* to 60* (20* - or twice the 10* difference) because the drop from 80* to 70* will happen in less than the 6 hrs it takes to go from 70* to 60*.

Please, Chris - do NOT go with kero. First off, they stink. And second off, I've gone to one funeral for an entire family thanks to one of these inventions of the devil; I'd rather not go to another. (little girl wasn't warm enough in her bedroom so she went to the living room where the kero heater was; the investigators think that she let a corner of her blanket drape on or near the kero heater... which started the fire that killed her entire family. Seven closed caskets.)

Dangerous. Can be used safely, but don't count on that happening with small children and a need to heat constantly. Just don't do it.

 

[drgrant]

I realize this, which is why I'm not ready to invest in a generator, because it would require a lot of research self education. However, if it turns out it's my best option to ensure I'm able to keep my 6 month old daughter warm, it may be worth the headache.

As I said, I tolerate the cold well, but a 6 month old that you can't wrap in blankets (choking hazard) does not.

It might actually be the least retarded option- buy a genset that is big enough to power your existing heating system and be done with it, particularly given the "I can't modify stuff" constraint that you posted earlier, you've kinda backed yourself into a corner on that one.

-Mike

 

[drgrant]

Furnaces normally require 220v, so these little inverters won't be what you want.

Not true. Mine at home was 110, and my friend's Forced Hot air system was also 110. The giant new system my dad had put in is also 110. Gotta check the system before making this judgement.

-Mike