I'm helping my friend buy her first rifle this weekend, and I'm trying to put together a list of things to look for and do during the purchase process. Can you guys help me out? Specifically she'll looking at a Colt AR-15. Thanks!
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what to look for when buying a rifle
- Thread starter TonyDedo
- Start date
Go with a Bushmaster, Stag, RRA, or other name; with Colt you are paying too much for the name. Head on over to www.ar15.com and look through some of the threads over there. Try out a lot of different stocks like an A1 which I think is shorter (assuming that she has shorter arms) to see what fits her best.
Good luck and happy shopping.
BTW you should be able to get a good basic rifle with no thrills and an A2 upper for between $600 to $800.
Good luck and happy shopping.
BTW you should be able to get a good basic rifle with no thrills and an A2 upper for between $600 to $800.
Chris
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Stick with a simple A2 style. You can always swap out the parts later if something catches the shooter's attention. If they absolutely MUST have optics now, get a flattop, but I really don't recommend this to a first timer only because good optics are expensive and optics do not make the shooter
IF they have the budget, try to pick up a pre-ban as the supply will only get smaller and more expensive. This opens up the options down the road.
After that, it's really more personal preference than anything.
IF they have the budget, try to pick up a pre-ban as the supply will only get smaller and more expensive. This opens up the options down the road.
After that, it's really more personal preference than anything.
You can get rear sights for a flat-top too. I've used them before, and have seen no real disadvantage. Like everyone's said, if you can don't go with a colt. After all, its a tool. Your paying for the name, there are other brands out there that provide the same level of quality for less
If she's looking at a Colt AR-15, she's good to go. I won't get into a debate on "Colt vs The AR World" - there's plenty of information out there, namely this well-thought thread: http://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=6642 , but to think that by purchasing Colt you're paying solely for the name is not necessarily true...Colt's are built to a higher standard - period.
You want to look at barrel length (what are you using it for) also the carry handle (how will you accesorize it), the barrel twist is also important (bullet weight?) and barrel type (bull, moly, chrome, SS). also PRE-BAn vs. Post-ban (will she want flash-hider, or other pre-ban add on's). Type of stock (tradional or POS). Also the material of the reciever (not a big big deal). Do you want it configured in .223 only or 5.56 which will except .223 as well. What caliber were you looking for?
Stay away from Colt. Never mind the name/price/quality/whatever.
If you ever want to change anything on it, the pins are different from the standard and there's extra crap in there like a sear block that makes it incompatible with some match triggers. There are workarounds for the pins that keep the upper on, but not for the trigger pins unless the manufacturer makes a colt version of their trigger. And even then, you might have to deal with the block.
If you ever want to change anything on it, the pins are different from the standard and there's extra crap in there like a sear block that makes it incompatible with some match triggers. There are workarounds for the pins that keep the upper on, but not for the trigger pins unless the manufacturer makes a colt version of their trigger. And even then, you might have to deal with the block.
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If the price was right, I wouldn't hesitate to buy a Colt. By that I mean the same price as a Rock River, Bushmaster, etc.. In fact, if it was the same price, I would definitely buy the Colt.
You are fairly safe buying any brand AR. The only ones I would shy away from would be Olympic.
You are fairly safe buying any brand AR. The only ones I would shy away from would be Olympic.
Issues that are non issues - hardly worth not buying a Colt for.
I'm sorry guys, I should have been more clear. She's already identified a rifle she likes from a private seller. She's going to look at the rifle this weekend, and wants to know what to look for when she inspects it. Essentially, how to kick the tires of an AR-15. Can we try again with the edited question?
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take a look at the bore, crowing, dissassemble the rifle...take a looky at the bolt. look for signs of wear. Test the trigger pull, if its standard it hsould break around 5-6lbs. Take a look at the sights, make sure htey aren't dented or obviously misaligned. Test the action out, make sure everything operates smoothly. that's usually some things I look for. there are tons of things to look for. I believe there is a sticky about inspecting a used gun somewhere.
take a look at the bore, crowing, dissassemble the rifle...take a looky at the bolt. look for signs of wear. Test the trigger pull, if its standard it hsould break around 5-6lbs. Take a look at the sights, make sure htey aren't dented or obviously misaligned. Test the action out, make sure everything operates smoothly. that's usually some things I look for. there are tons of things to look for. I believe there is a sticky about inspecting a used gun somewhere.
I would be looking for things that would give me a better negotiating position. AR's are so modular there is not much that can't be fixed. I would just look for obvious stuff (bent barrel, broken stock, sights, etc.). I would also do a safety check i.e. pulling trigger, holding back, recock, release trigger and pull again, etc.. Just to make sure there is nothing wrong with the trigger group/safety.
Try to get a round count.
Try to get a round count.
Chris
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Just some stuff off the top of my head...
Make sure the big stuff is tight.
Open and remove the bolt. Was it kept clean and well lubricated?
Does the gas key move at all?
Is the bolt face clean?
Is the extractor in good shape?
does the ejector move freely?
How does the firing pin look?
Check the Barrel Extension and condition of the lugs.
Look down barrel from breech and determine the condition of the rifling. Bring a light to help with this. Things should look clean, sharp, and consistent.
Holding the hammer, check the smoothness of the action. (don't dry fire without the upper on unless you are holding the hammer. By holding, you can feel things you can't from the trigger. Should all be smooth.)
Push the recoil spring and see if it moves freely.
If you have one, check a No-Go or Field gauge. (Be careful, I've seen some jam and are a PIA to get back out if they do. Close the bolt slowly on it.)
Remove the handguards and look for any sign of corrosion.
If claimed to be pre-ban, bring the data for the brand and check the serial number against it.
Check mag release (bring a known good mag to try it if possible)
Verify safety works.
Be sure dust cover closes and latches and verify the little locking clip is in place there (tiny detail, but goes to show how well kept the gun is)
As always, a minor issue (sticky ejector for example) may not be a showstopper, but could be a bargaining point.
Are the sling mounts in place? Are the sights in good condition? Move the sight adjusters 3 clicks in one direction and then back to test condition.
If butt has a compartment, look inside - any sign of moisture or debris?
if stock is a non-fixed, be sure it feels comfortable and the sights line up with the eye.
Make sure the big stuff is tight.
Open and remove the bolt. Was it kept clean and well lubricated?
Does the gas key move at all?
Is the bolt face clean?
Is the extractor in good shape?
does the ejector move freely?
How does the firing pin look?
Check the Barrel Extension and condition of the lugs.
Look down barrel from breech and determine the condition of the rifling. Bring a light to help with this. Things should look clean, sharp, and consistent.
Holding the hammer, check the smoothness of the action. (don't dry fire without the upper on unless you are holding the hammer. By holding, you can feel things you can't from the trigger. Should all be smooth.)
Push the recoil spring and see if it moves freely.
If you have one, check a No-Go or Field gauge. (Be careful, I've seen some jam and are a PIA to get back out if they do. Close the bolt slowly on it.)
Remove the handguards and look for any sign of corrosion.
If claimed to be pre-ban, bring the data for the brand and check the serial number against it.
Check mag release (bring a known good mag to try it if possible)
Verify safety works.
Be sure dust cover closes and latches and verify the little locking clip is in place there (tiny detail, but goes to show how well kept the gun is)
As always, a minor issue (sticky ejector for example) may not be a showstopper, but could be a bargaining point.
Are the sling mounts in place? Are the sights in good condition? Move the sight adjusters 3 clicks in one direction and then back to test condition.
If butt has a compartment, look inside - any sign of moisture or debris?
if stock is a non-fixed, be sure it feels comfortable and the sights line up with the eye.
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We'll just have to agree to disagree, then. I think they are significant even when we exclude why colt makes them that way. When we include the why, it's a slam dunk.
I just can't get the trigger I want with colt size pins. It doesn't exist. That's why colt prebans are so cheap unless they're the <insert color here> label rifles built to standard spec.
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