What did you do in the reloading room recently?

Got my trim it 2 back from the manufacturer. Much better than it was, but still cuts off center a little. Anyone have the plastic shield tube they can measure the ID and ID for me with calipers so I can buy some tubing for a new shield?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
Just set up my press for 9mm. Worked up a load for 147 gr. coated RN over Win 231 at 1.135 OAL. Tested 3.0 gr., 3.3 gr. and 3.4 gr. (didn't have any measures that would drop in between 3.0 and 3.3). Settled on 3.0 which gave 128PF. The 3.3 and 3.4 were up in the 141 and 145PF range.

After sighting in for the load, I ran a batch of 200 for Sunday's match. 12 rounds and two squibs later I withdrew from the match and pulled all of the bullets. It turns out that at some point someone turned off my powder measure. I was also seating the primers too high. I reseated all of the primed brass and watched every powder drop.

I had a lot of things going on on Saturday: attending my son's youth pistol league; attending a friend's graduation party; getting all of the stuff to set up my Glock and belt; and having to sight in the Glock. All in all, I was rushing to set up a new gun and a new load, and didn't pay attention to something basic. Now I have two more squibs for my wall of shame.
 
I moved this to the correct thread "Reloading Bench Photo", Thanks Andrew1220 for the link.

Admin, please delete if you wish.

I was looking for the "show us your reloading room" thread but couldn't find it, posting here, admin please delete if wrong thread.

I recently wanted to get into hand loading for a rifle I picked up, I had been loading on a Dillion 650 but wanted to try my hand at (precision [thinking]) hand loading.

So I tore my set up down and started again, still work in progress but getting there, I wanted a case preo area, a loading area and maintenance cleaning area.

The loading bench is a Windsor 60in 4 drawer workbench from Harbor Freight, not a big fan of harbor Freight but this is a rock solid, top notch bench.

The case prep is hand built because I needed it to fit in a specific location, store purchased bench was either to short or to long.

The maintenance cleaning area is a Husky 60in 10 Drawer tool bench, my family just purchase for a birthday, this thing is rock solid 450lb, it was a pain in the rear to unload from the truck.

Relaoding.jpg

CasePrep.jpg

RPR_View1.jpg

harry
 
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HarryPottar said:
I was looking for the "show us your reloading room" thread but couldn't find it, posting here, admin please delete if wrong thread.

I recently wanted to get into hand loading for a rifle I picked up, I had been loading on a Dillion 650 but wanted to try my hand at (precision [thinking]) hand loading.

So I tore my set up down and started again, still work in progress but getting there, I wanted a case preo area, a loading area and maintenance cleaning area.

The loading bench is a Windsor 60in 4 drawer workbench from Harbor Freight, not a big fan of harbor Freight but this is a rock solid, top notch bench.

The case prep is hand built because I needed it to fit in a specific location, store purchased bench was either to short or to long.

The maintenance cleaning area is a Husky 60in 10 Drawer tool bench, my family just purchase for a birthday, this thing is rock solid 450lb, it was a pain in the rear to unload from the truck.

View attachment 202477

View attachment 202478

View attachment 202479

harry
Click to expand...

Very nice. A lot more organized than my bench [laugh]

Here's the reloading room photo thread if you were looking for it:
https://www.northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/threads/38070-Reloading-Bench-Photos?
 
HarryPottar said:
I moved this to the correct thread "Reloading Bench Photo", Thanks Andrew1220 for the link.

Admin, please delete if you wish.

I was looking for the "show us your reloading room" thread but couldn't find it, posting here, admin please delete if wrong thread.

I recently wanted to get into hand loading for a rifle I picked up, I had been loading on a Dillion 650 but wanted to try my hand at (precision [thinking]) hand loading.

So I tore my set up down and started again, still work in progress but getting there, I wanted a case preo area, a loading area and maintenance cleaning area.

The loading bench is a Windsor 60in 4 drawer workbench from Harbor Freight, not a big fan of harbor Freight but this is a rock solid, top notch bench.

The case prep is hand built because I needed it to fit in a specific location, store purchased bench was either to short or to long.

The maintenance cleaning area is a Husky 60in 10 Drawer tool bench, my family just purchase for a birthday, this thing is rock solid 450lb, it was a pain in the rear to unload from the truck.

harry
Click to expand...

Jesus H Christ...I thought I was well set up in a 'sitting room only' ex-root cellar off the corner of my basement that I redid the floor in concrete. That's a well organized reloading bench right there!

Do you actually wash your brass? I notice the dehydrator/drier and was wondering if people actually wash their brass with soap and water? I never have...I tumble twice typically: once in walnut and then after sizing/depriming/trimming/repriming i run them through treated corn cob for a nice finish polish. I THINK everything comes off (lube/brass shavings) during the second tumble...but i've been wrong before. What say the NES brain trust?
 
My pistol brass I dry tumble once and that is fine.

My 223/556, I dry tumble first, then prep that on the Dillion 650, First station I resize de-prime, then I have swager adapter where the primer would normally go, then I have the RT1500 for trimming, then I have a lee neck sizer just to double check the neck size hasn't changed during trimming. I then wash with steel pins, this removes case lube and helps deburr/clean up after trimming. In the summer I let dry in the sun, colder weather I use the dehydrator to dry. There is normally at least a week between prep and load. On loading the first station which would normally have a resizer, I have a wifi enabled bore scope that inspects the brass, i want to double check there are no pins left in the case that could be sent down the barrel. Then normal prime, powder measure, seat etc.

With my 223, going for quantity over quality, my son shoots a lot of 223.

With the new rifle set up, they come clean out the gun, so de-prime, uniform the primer pocket and deburr flash hole(only once in life tiem of brass), anneal the dry tumble. Then neck size only, I have head bump and full length dies as well for when needed. Then trim, chamfer, debur neck and then sonic clean to get rid of case lube. Then load, prime, powder, seat etc.

harry
 
HarryPottar said:
My pistol brass I dry tumble once and that is fine.

My 223/556, I dry tumble first, then prep that on the Dillion 650, First station I resize de-prime, then I have swager adapter where the primer would normally go, then I have the RT1500 for trimming, then I have a lee neck sizer just to double check the neck size hasn't changed during trimming. I then wash with steel pins, this removes case lube and helps deburr/clean up after trimming. In the summer I let dry in the sun, colder weather I use the dehydrator to dry. There is normally at least a week between prep and load. On loading the first station which would normally have a resizer, I have a wifi enabled bore scope that inspects the brass, i want to double check there are no pins left in the case that could be sent down the barrel. Then normal prime, powder measure, seat etc.

With my 223, going for quantity over quality, my son shoots a lot of 223.

With the new rifle set up, they come clean out the gun, so de-prime, uniform the primer pocket and deburr flash hole(only once in life tiem of brass), anneal the dry tumble. Then neck size only, I have head bump and full length dies as well for when needed. Then trim, chamfer, debur neck and then sonic clean to get rid of case lube. Then load, prime, powder, seat etc.

harry
Click to expand...

I'm a step above banging two rocks together. I don't even clean my primer pockets :D
 
Dakar652 said:
Jesus H Christ...I thought I was well set up in a 'sitting room only' ex-root cellar off the corner of my basement that I redid the floor in concrete. That's a well organized reloading bench right there!

Do you actually wash your brass? I notice the dehydrator/drier and was wondering if people actually wash their brass with soap and water? I never have...I tumble twice typically: once in walnut and then after sizing/depriming/trimming/repriming i run them through treated corn cob for a nice finish polish. I THINK everything comes off (lube/brass shavings) during the second tumble...but i've been wrong before. What say the NES brain trust?
Click to expand...
I sometimes wet tumble in stainless media or ultrasonic clean them and dry them in a dehydrator

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
Dakar652 said:
Jesus H Christ...I thought I was well set up in a 'sitting room only' ex-root cellar off the corner of my basement that I redid the floor in concrete. That's a well organized reloading bench right there!

Do you actually wash your brass? I notice the dehydrator/drier and was wondering if people actually wash their brass with soap and water? I never have...I tumble twice typically: once in walnut and then after sizing/depriming/trimming/repriming i run them through treated corn cob for a nice finish polish. I THINK everything comes off (lube/brass shavings) during the second tumble...but i've been wrong before. What say the NES brain trust?
Click to expand...

I drop the brass on the floor to nock the sand off then wipe with my T shirt.
For the cmp fodder I tumble until clean about 45 minutes with corn cob and nufinsh polish added. After the rounds are complete I give a quick tumble to remove lube or if a small batch I just wipe off.
I know only one person who washes their brass but just lays it out on a blanket to dry in the sun.

- - - Updated - - -

HarryPottar said:
I moved this to the correct thread "Reloading Bench Photo", Thanks Andrew1220 for the link.

Admin, please delete if you wish.

I was looking for the "show us your reloading room" thread but couldn't find it, posting here, admin please delete if wrong thread.

I recently wanted to get into hand loading for a rifle I picked up, I had been loading on a Dillion 650 but wanted to try my hand at (precision [thinking]) hand loading.

So I tore my set up down and started again, still work in progress but getting there, I wanted a case preo area, a loading area and maintenance cleaning area.

The loading bench is a Windsor 60in 4 drawer workbench from Harbor Freight, not a big fan of harbor Freight but this is a rock solid, top notch bench.

The case prep is hand built because I needed it to fit in a specific location, store purchased bench was either to short or to long.

The maintenance cleaning area is a Husky 60in 10 Drawer tool bench, my family just purchase for a birthday, this thing is rock solid 450lb, it was a pain in the rear to unload from the truck.

View attachment 202477

View attachment 202478

View attachment 202479

harry
Click to expand...

invite me over.............. I want to mess that shit right up! good job. I posted a pic of my crevice but the flash could not penetrate the darkness.

On a lighter note: Where are you located you want to anneal some brass for me for a fee ?
 
I kinda figured you'd say something like that...i can actually picture this process. I'll probably even get to your level of 'get it done' at some point...i'm just feeling out the process to see just what I can get away with NOT doing so I can just get out and SHOOT more instead of fondling little chunks of metal in the basement for hours on end.

I do try to keep my tumbler loads fairly consistent...like if I know I have to tumble again, I'll just shoot more of something to make a full load so I'm not wasting time/electricity.

How do you know when it's time to think about annealing? Case necks start cracking while resizing/shooting? I'll probably builld something out of a window regulator or wiper motor to rotate the brass for me and make a little stand for my blow torch...just haven't got there yet. I REALLY like the one on the interweb that guy made with a reel to reel, but those things are few and far between at the flea markets, and people typically think they're worth their weight in gold for some reason.

mac1911 said:
I drop the brass on the floor to nock the sand off then wipe with my T shirt.
For the cmp fodder I tumble until clean about 45 minutes with corn cob and nufinsh polish added. After the rounds are complete I give a quick tumble to remove lube or if a small batch I just wipe off.
I know only one person who washes their brass but just lays it out on a blanket to dry in the sun.

- - - Updated - - -



invite me over.............. I want to mess that shit right up! good job. I posted a pic of my crevice but the flash could not penetrate the darkness.

On a lighter note: Where are you located you want to anneal some brass for me for a fee ?
Click to expand...

ETA:

Yup...$75 for the cheapest reel to reel I see on local craigslist...I guess I'll just wait to find another one in the trunk of a car at the junkyard.
 
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josh2600 said:
less accurate as in noticeable. If you just throw lead at plates at 100 yards, then don't worry about it. If you put time into making very precise rounds to shoot 1/4 moa, then it should concern you.
Click to expand...

Don't reload rifle, probably never be that good with a pistol haha. Funny you say that though. My buddy reloads 308 for his tuned up Remington 700 and sonic cleans the brass, I think dry tumble followed by polish.
 
Trying to finish up the 230 gr plated bullets I have, so that I can try the sample order (250) of ones from Precision. I have less than 300 bullets left to do (did 300 today, and 300 last week). Anxious to try out these coated bullets.

Ordered some 125gr bullets too, from Precision, and will try them out too, once I finish off the 1000+ that I have of 115gr plated.
 
Paleoman said:
Trying to finish up the 230 gr plated bullets I have, so that I can try the sample order (250) of ones from Precision. I have less than 300 bullets left to do (did 300 today, and 300 last week). Anxious to try out these coated bullets.

Ordered some 125gr bullets too, from Precision, and will try them out too, once I finish off the 1000+ that I have of 115gr plated.
Click to expand...

What are you loading the 230's with? (I'm trying to use up the last of my TiteGroup then looking for a new load for Xtreme 230's)
 
AntiHippie said:
What are you loading the 230's with? (I'm trying to use up the last of my TiteGroup then looking for a new load for Xtreme 230's)
Click to expand...
I'm using CFE Pistol Powder (use it for 9mm too). On the Berry's bullets I have now, I use 6.0 he of powder. Using CCI primers.


Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
Win 231/HP38 seems very popular in .45acp. When I use up my Titegroup I'm going to try VV N350. It will work in all the handgun calibers I load except the 500.
 
I did some casting and loading for the 500. I cast some 440 grain gas check flat points and sized them to .501. They seemed to shoot a bit more accurately than the 350 grain plated flat points. I'm trying to work up a 200 yard plinking load. The .45acp works but it's a pain in the ass trying to estimate 8 feet of elevation(6 with +P). If I put the original front sight back on the 500, I can hold right on at 200
 
I was going to bitch about my Lee turret press not fully indexing on each station, but decided to play around with it. Since new, I've used WD40 to lubricate. This time I used Breakfree CLP in a small dripper. Put a coating on all contact points. Night and day difference!

If you run the press "full speed" indexing isn't a problem but it does trickle powder onto the bench. I go 50% to offset that. Think I'll be sticking with CLP!
 
Last edited:
Hillx21 said:
I was going to bitch about my Lee turret press not fully indexing on each station, but decided to play around with it. Since new, I've used WD40 to lubricate. This time I used Breakfree CLP in a small dripper. Put a coating on all contact points. Night and day difference!

If you run the press "full speed" indexing isn't a problem but it does trickle powder onto the bench. I go 50% to offset that. Think I'll be sticking with CLP!
Click to expand...

Try using motor oil on the ram. On the indexing rod, use a light coat of grease. For operation speed, I slow down at the bottom of the stroke where the primer will be seating (making sure you go through the full stroke), and also at the top of the stroke as you push in the index rod. I found this method to work well with the Loadmaster. Just don't let anyone turn off your Autodisk. [wink]
 
I loaded some cast 350 grain .501 bullets in the 500 S&W. I'm looking for a mild load at or slightly above 1000 fps. I'm starting with Trail Boss, Unique and Titegroup. I'll chronograph them tomorrow.
 
Hillx21 said:
I was going to bitch about my Lee turret press not fully indexing on each station, but decided to play around with it. Since new, I've used WD40 to lubricate. This time I used Breakfree CLP in a small dripper. Put a coating on all contact points. Night and day difference!

If you run the press "full speed" indexing isn't a problem but it does trickle powder onto the bench. I go 50% to offset that. Think I'll be sticking with CLP!
Click to expand...

Directions are funny...
Page 3 or so of the lee turret press says DO NOT USE WD40. I have come to like graphite and what ever remington dry lube is...
Lee has some videos
https://www.youtube.com/user/LeePrecisionInc

Also for you lee users check out
http://loadmastervideos.com
Lots of tips and tricks to get Our Lee POS loaders running well.

Powder leaking is and has been a issue with Lee.
I bought the auto drum for my pro 1000 and it has been great. h110 does not leak and that's about as fine a powder I use.
It even drops clays powder very very well.
 
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Got some .303 Brit dies on the way to load for my new No.4 Mk I* Enfield.
If anyone has any recipes they like I'm all ears.

I should also probably do something with all the 30-06 and .223 brass I prepped...
 
daekken said:
Got some .303 Brit dies on the way to load for my new No.4 Mk I* Enfield.
If anyone has any recipes they like I'm all ears.

I should also probably do something with all the 30-06 and .223 brass I prepped...
Click to expand...

I,have a No4 Mk2 ....I no experience with the Mk1 although I have read they can have a very loose chamber.... that said my limited reloading so far
38 grains of H4895 under the hornady 150 grain .312" soft point has produced some good groups.
Mid 2-low 3 moa.
My chamber is a tad "loose" per measuring factory 303 ppu and hxp pre and post shooting.
I found out real quick adjusting the dies so the FL die just kisses the case body has extended my PPU brass from 2 reloads to 6 on the current batch of ppu brass I'm loading. Last reloads the brass felt "tight" in the press and it has changed its "tune" while trimming...so I might have do a bit of annealing soon.
As usual the plan is cast for the most part. My worn rifles can produce better accuracy with cast bullets and lower velocities for the 200 yards I will be shooting.
Plus the .311-312" bullets are not cheap...have not seen much under .28 cents per bullet last I looked.
 
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