What did you do in the reloading room recently?

The Zero brand 38 cal 158 gr JSPs are in stock again for anyone looking. ~10 cents each shipped.
Seriously wondering when they’re going to have a price increase. Amazing how low their prices are.

Edit: sold out.
 
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Made up some test loads for tomorrow morning:

18 + 18 - Alliant SP w/240 gn LSWC for comparing the Hornady crimp/set combo die vs. the Lee collet crimp die. (for assessing bullet jump from each crimp - will measure the 6th round in all 6 cylinders)

48 + 48 - Alliant SP w/240gn in both LSWC and FMJ - all have a tighter Hornady crimp/set die set-up. (I had a second die available so why not? Will measure the 6th round in 3 cylinders of each projectile) Also trying to dial in equivalent charges (for velocity) when switching from LSWC to FMJ.

I've also got another 240 LSWC plinking rounds in the bag in case I get bored........:D

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Too f***ing hot to do anything putsude.....so did a full on basement clean out and organized my shit. It's no great setup but it's mine. And now I can find everything lol. Never knew so many spent primers could land behind a bench until I moved it. 😳

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Could be the crimp but I think the biggest factor is the resistance from the copper jacket compared to bare lead or a Hi-Tek coating on the bullet.
Absolutely this.

If you read back through this thread I had an issue finding load data for 158 grain jacketed projos in 38 special. 125 grain jacketed there is plenty......I did find some 38 data finally for 700x powder. They ran through my snub ok but in the henry carbine the first round barely made it out of the barrel.....just a poof and I saw the range backstop media move about 2 feet below the target so I knew it exited the barrel. Thought it may be a light charge.. Next shot same thing. Full stop.....took them home and pulled them all down. Jacketed bullets have more friction.
 
I picked up this LED light from ebay for my RL550 and really like what it does.


The picture shows the Reloading Press LED light on, the basement lights on, but the overhead workbench light off.

I still need to figure out exactly how I want to route the wires, but that should be no big deal.

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Made some bullets.
I picked up this new mould from MP. It has the same nose style as my favorite 38/357 bullet.
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Now I need one for the 44 mag and one for 45 Colt!

They make the “640” style nose in 32 to 50 cal.

Here she is next to a loaded cartridge. I didn’t feel like digging out the 1895 but she’s reported to feed like water through them.
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Here it is next to a 38 with the same profile Bullet. That’s a whole lotta lead. 48CD516A-2094-4753-80AC-DAFF60EA5D4D.jpeg

You can see the penta pin cavity is massive. This is side by side with a 9mm black talon that was shot into gel and showed perfect expansion.

It’s damn near a shot glass. 24DD39B8-19CD-4F8C-BCF2-F56C2DF850F6.jpeg 8F8BD1BE-90AE-4229-96A2-27625B434948.jpeg
 
I've been trying to get the .43 Spanish rolling block to shoot with smokeless powder and so far I've had limited success. The bullet is .439 but the bore is .443 as far as I can tell. Black powder will bump up an undersized bullet but much more powerful smokeless will not. As often happens when I go to sleep with a problem on my mind, the solution came to me in the middle of the night. I took a dozen of the .439 Spanish bullets. ran them through a .430 sizing die and paper patched them to .444. That was exactly 2 wraps. That should give me the diameter I need with the bore riding nose of the original bullet. I'd like to get Paul Mathews' book on paper patching because I probably did everything wrong. I guess I'll find out tomorrow.
 
I'm shocked but the paper patched bullets seemed to have worked. I shot a group of 5 and all went into the black. Paper patching is kind of a pain in the ass but it's amazing to me that a piece of paper can not only withstand the heat and pressure but can make a bullet that shoots a 10" group at 50 yards, shoot into less than half that at twice the distance. I still have a lot to learn but I don't expect extreme precision from an old military rifle and an old shooter.
 
I shot a few more paper patched bullets today and they did great. I just ordered "The Paper Jacket" by Paul Mathews. Maybe I'll learn something.
Awesome! You’ll love the book.
I’ve read reviews and guys said he did it all wrong. Other guys said he nailed it.
Seems there’s more than one way to skin a cat.

What paper are you using?
 
I'm shocked but the paper patched bullets seemed to have worked. I shot a group of 5 and all went into the black. Paper patching is kind of a pain in the ass but it's amazing to me that a piece of paper can not only withstand the heat and pressure but can make a bullet that shoots a 10" group at 50 yards, shoot into less than half that at twice the distance. I still have a lot to learn but I don't expect extreme precision from an old military rifle and an old shooter.
Paper patching is especially good for worn bores , its like casting over sized bullets.
Paper patching is like a gasket. On its own its not very strong compressed between to hard surfaces its going to hold up better.
I know I have some paper patches somewhere? Was going to paper patch a well work manlicher
 
Paper patching is especially good for worn bores , its like casting over sized bullets.
Paper patching is like a gasket. On its own its not very strong compressed between to hard surfaces its going to hold up better.
I know I have some paper patches somewhere? Was going to paper patch a well work manlicher
A really savvy dude taught me using tracing paper at the casting seminars I went to.

I still have yet to try it with my 1889, but at least I remember how to do it after being shown the second time.
 
I read 2 reviews. One was positive and one was negative. I guess I'll find out in a few days. For paper I just grabbed a sheet out of the printer, cut it into strips with a 1" metal ruler and made a template out of Velux flashing. I guess it makes a difference which direction the paper is cut in, whether the patches are wet or dry and which direction they're wrapped in. Sometimes being lucky is better than being good. Buffalo Arms sells patching paper. Do you think it's worth trying?
 
I read 2 reviews. One was positive and one was negative. I guess I'll find out in a few days. For paper I just grabbed a sheet out of the printer, cut it into strips with a 1" metal ruler and made a template out of Velux flashing. I guess it makes a difference which direction the paper is cut in, whether the patches are wet or dry and which direction they're wrapped in. Sometimes being lucky is better than being good. Buffalo Arms sells patching paper. Do you think it's worth trying?
See my above post for a cheaper alternative w/tracing paper that can be had at any craft/art/office supply store...one small pad will last you a lifetime of paper patching bullets.
 
I read 2 reviews. One was positive and one was negative. I guess I'll find out in a few days. For paper I just grabbed a sheet out of the printer, cut it into strips with a 1" metal ruler and made a template out of Velux flashing. I guess it makes a difference which direction the paper is cut in, whether the patches are wet or dry and which direction they're wrapped in. Sometimes being lucky is better than being good. Buffalo Arms sells patching paper. Do you think it's worth trying?

I’ve seen guys get great results with all kinds of paper. The main thing is bullet fit it seems. As always right?

Some guys use thinner or thicker paper to fit their needs. They say for smokeless size the bullet to .001” to .002” above bore diameter and wrap to .001” to .002” above groove diameter.
So depending on your rifling you need thicker or thinner paper. Or maybe 3 wraps.

I like the BACO paper. It’s wraps beautifully.

I’ve tried about 5 types of vellum/tracing paper and they all handle differently. The BACO seems to be the best.
 
I’ve seen guys get great results with all kinds of paper. The main thing is bullet fit it seems. As always right?

Some guys use thinner or thicker paper to fit their needs. They say for smokeless size the bullet to .001” to .002” above bore diameter and wrap to .001” to .002” above groove diameter.
So depending on your rifling you need thicker or thinner paper. Or maybe 3 wraps.

I like the BACO paper. It’s wraps beautifully.

I’ve tried about 5 types of vellum/tracing paper and they all handle differently. The BACO seems to be the best.

In that case, you MA guys can kill two birds with one stone and just repurpose some of your ‘medicine’ wraps

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