Tac-ti-fool-ish-ness

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This is not... I repeat... not a standard configuration SKS rifle gone bubba. It's yet another Yugo-nese (yugo receiver, chinese barrel) just like the one I assembled from varoius parts guns and gave to my son - not a single matching number. I did use the hammered finish paint on the receiver, rear sight block, front stock ferrule, bayonet lug and front sight - hopefully parts that won't heat up as much as the barrel and gas tube. The rear sight was painted by myself, it was one of those dull-cast Yugo replacement sights with no painted numbers to begin with, so I thought a little shine wouldn't hurt the ladder, I left the flat finish on the sight itself to cut down on glare.

I actually have had this rifle together in a wood stock for several weeks and test fired it for function and accuracy. I'm mildly concerned with the headspace on this one, as the primer strikes seem a bit deeper than most SKS's, but thus far (40-50 rounds) it has not pierced nor popped a primer yet.

It is one of my more accurate SKS's at 3 MOA, the only better ones are a refurb Russian and a Romanian. So, trust it in a fire-fight? So far, yes, but of course I'll do some more extensive testing - say, another 3-400 rounds to be sure. Thanks for looking guys (and gals)!
 
Nice SKS. How durable is that hammer finish paint when used on a firearm? What did you do to prep the metal? I am curious as I would like to do something similar to a gun of mine. Also, have you ever painted a synthetic stock before? If so what kind of prep does it involve and how does it stand up?
 
No, this is tactifoolishness.

[grin] And it's black and evil!


I haven't even had a chance to fire it since the paint job, Kenny. But I did test the paint on an old shot out Yugo SKS barrel before I put it on an operating gun. I let oil sit on it for a few days, bumped and banged it with a light tap from a hammer and it seems to stay on. On the one pictured, I kept the paint off the barrel and gas tubes themselves to avoid peeling from heat when I pop off a few mags in a row. The hammered finish paint is not high temp resistant.

The Chinese barrel from Numrich had a good bore but some serious rust on the outside. I wire wheeled most of it off.
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For prep, I just used the Birchwood Casey blueing and rust remover to strip, and the paint has its own primer - two light coats covered perfectly. I applied Cold Blueing to the rest of the barrel.
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I have yet to paint any plastic, but there are several choices of plastic paint at any hardware store... but I'll defer any experience on that to someone who has.

Thanks.
 
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