Stuck my very first rifle case!

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Well, I got new Hornady Dimension dies for my .223s last night. I thought I'd give it a quick run thru the sizer and I managed to get my first case stuck! I lubed it with One Shot and it went thru the die fine the first time... but I didn't adjust the primer pin enough to push out the primer and when I made that adjustment I didn't put more lube on the case... bingo- stuck as hell! What a bumer.

What do you guys recommend for the best tool to remove the cases? I think for now I'll send this to Hornady for $4 they'll remove it.
 
Lose the One Shot and buy a bottle of Dillon Spray Lube. Ounce for ounce it does a better job and you'll get more cases lubed per bottle than with One Shot....and no stuck cases.

As for removing the case, if you can remove the decapping pin assembly (not familiar with Hornady dies) a brass punch and hammer with the die set on a piece of wood with a hole drilled in it large enough for the casing to pass through but still support the die.
 
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Dave, here's how I did it.

I took the die apart, removing the decapping pin and the nut that held it in place. I found a screw about 1-1/2" long, with a head just smaller than the ID of the case neck. I drilled out the flash hole so that the threaded part of the screw would fit through. I dropped the screw through the top of the die into the case so that the threaded part came out the flash hole. I found a 1/4" drive socket that was big enough so that the case head would fit inside it (I think a 12-point 1/2" or 13mm socket will work for a .223 case). I found a washer and nut for the screw. The washer has to be larger than the drive hole of the socket. With the screw protruding out of the bottom of the stuck case, I placed the socket onto the screw (with the "open" end of the socket towards the case), then the washer and finally the nut. I got the nut finger tight and put the die upside down in a vise. Then I simply tightened the nut to draw the stuck case out of the die.

Of course, it probably would've been easier to bash it out like Finalygotabeltfed described.
 
I used the conduit coupler system. The only problem was that it was stuck so tightly that the screw broke off. finally sent it off to RCBS who removed it with no charge.

I use Dillon lube but one work of warning. Shack it up before using. I found out the hard way that if NOT shaken, you spray on only the alcohol base and not the lube itself...
 
Dave, I've got really bad news for you -- you've been cursed!

Fortunately, there is one way out -- you can restore your good luck by loading 500 rounds of .223 ammo for me. I'll even provide the clean once-fired cases. [wink]
 
Dave, here's how I did it.

I took the die apart, removing the decapping pin and the nut that held it in place. I found a screw about 1-1/2" long, with a head just smaller than the ID of the case neck. I drilled out the flash hole so that the threaded part of the screw would fit through. I dropped the screw through the top of the die into the case so that the threaded part came out the flash hole. I found a 1/4" drive socket that was big enough so that the case head would fit inside it (I think a 12-point 1/2" or 13mm socket will work for a .223 case). I found a washer and nut for the screw. The washer has to be larger than the drive hole of the socket. With the screw protruding out of the bottom of the stuck case, I placed the socket onto the screw (with the "open" end of the socket towards the case), then the washer and finally the nut. I got the nut finger tight and put the die upside down in a vise. Then I simply tightened the nut to draw the stuck case out of the die.

Of course, it probably would've been easier to bash it out like Finalygotabeltfed described.

That's exactly what I did last night and it worked very well. I was surprised how easy it actually came out.

I couldn't bash it out because the Hornady die has some cone shaped part that is screwed in to the adjuster rod and the pin that was stuck in the case as well.
 
Dave, I've got really bad news for you -- you've been cursed!

Fortunately, there is one way out -- you can restore your good luck by loading 500 rounds of .223 ammo for me. I'll even provide the clean once-fired cases. [wink]


Suuurrreee.
 
I found an easier way (if you have the tool). I stuck one last night and put the die into the vise to drill out the flash hole. However, before I drilled it, I tried one of these:

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It worked like a charm on the first hit.
 
RCBS makes a case removal kit; short money, works on the same principle as the method described by E. Coyle (first of his replies), and everything you need is in one handy green die box.

I do not think much of the dent puller suggestion, as this may damage the die. The beauty of the screw approach is that the force applied to the stuck case is applied gradually.

I've used the old fashioned RCBS lube on an ink pad method for more years that I'm willing to admit and never had a problem.
 
I do not think much of the dent puller suggestion, as this may damage the die.

How? The sudden application of force won't hurt the carbide. High impact metal stamping dies are made of carbide - the higher the speed of impact, the more likely you'll see carbide being used.

Honestly, I was surprised how well the slide hammer worked. I intended to lightly "tap" the case out, but it came flying out on the first "tap".
 
How? The sudden application of force won't hurt the carbide. High impact metal stamping dies are made of carbide - the higher the speed of impact, the more likely you'll see carbide being used.

Stamping dies are not made with carbide. The hardness of carbide makes it unsuitable, it's brittle and chips rapidly. Alloy steels are for stamping. Such as S7, D2, A6. All have different qualities for their intended usage.
 
Stamping dies are not made with carbide. The hardness of carbide makes it unsuitable, it's brittle and chips rapidly. Alloy steels are for stamping. Such as S7, D2, A6. All have different qualities for their intended usage.

High speed stamping dies feature lots of carbide punches and inserts.
 
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