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Steel Plate Racks

matt

matt

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Anyone here ever built their own steel plate racks?

Any suggestions? I'm thinking I may do this. We have a machine shop and a welder at work.

Any thoughts or pics of your rigs appreciated.

Thanks,
Matt

(EDIT: I'm thinking about this for defensive pistol rounds .38 to .45ACP)
 
Last edited:
There was a guy that used to shoot where I do that had a stand with steel plates attached. It was a complicated rig but worked great. Sort of a tripod with a peg at the top and a steel plate attached by a bolt through a hole in the plate with a heavy duty spring around the bolt to absorb impact. It worked great because when struck the plate would move back and the spring would compress allowing it to return to center position again. Best of all it was portable. Its hard to describe it without pictures but if you've got access to some steel and a welder just try diferent types until you get one that works.
 
Milsurps 4 Me said:
There was a guy that used to shoot where I do that had a stand with steel plates attached. It was a complicated rig but worked great. Sort of a tripod with a peg at the top and a steel plate attached by a bolt through a hole in the plate with a heavy duty spring around the bolt to absorb impact. It worked great because when struck the plate would move back and the spring would compress allowing it to return to center position again. Best of all it was portable. Its hard to describe it without pictures but if you've got access to some steel and a welder just try diferent types until you get one that works.
Click to expand...

Vinny Tuzzo at the Independent Sportsmen's Club in Foxboro still makes those single steel plate targets. Drop him a line via the club's phone no. (508)543-9240 if you are interested.
 
I recently bought a set of six six-inch steel plates from him. He built them out of thick armor plate for no extra charge. Now I can shoot pistol, shotguns, and rifles at them without any excessive, unsafe damage.
 
Tested a hinge idea out today at the range: I used gate hinges available at the hardware store. These are a type of strap hinge made with 3/16" steel. Worked well with hanging targets suspended from bent re-bar. Next I'll build the real deal plate rack.

I'll need to find a source for the steel plates next.

In one of the articles listed by SnakeEye above they talk about needing a very flat plate that doesn't deform on impact so that splatter is consistent. Today I used 1/2 aluminum that took a heavy beating. They won't last long, but the good thing is because they are soft the will splatter consistently, though probably more toward the shooter than steel would.

Matt
 
matt said:
I'll need to find a source for the steel plates next.
Click to expand...

Holy Crap...I feel like the Scrivster, I hope that I make him proud.

As stated above! hehehehe

Cross-X said:
Vinny Tuzzo at the Independent Sportsmen's Club in Foxboro still makes those single steel plate targets. Drop him a line via the club's phone no. (508)543-9240 if you are interested.
Click to expand...
 
C-pher said:
Holy Crap...I feel like the Scrivster, I hope that I make him proud.

As stated above! hehehehe
Click to expand...


I thought he built the whole rig, not just the plates. I've got the falling plate rig basicly designed, including the reset. But hey, if I can get the plates from him, great!

Matt
 
jhrosier said:
Matt,
Where are you located?
I have a set of 6 plates that I will sell/trade cheap.
I'm about 10 minutes from Palmer.
Click to expand...

PM sent. I kind of want to build it myself (just so I can say I did, silly I know...), but if the price is right...

Matt
 
If you've got access to a machine shop and welder, I'll describe an interesting target I saw once. Haven't got around to doing one for myself yet, but it's on my "someday" list.

It's a steel silhouette target, full size, with the center circle, 8" or whatever, cut out. four small holes drilled in the corners allow you to attach it securely to a 2X4 or 2X6 frame. A second plate, appropriately sized, is hung via a couple of chains from the BACK of the frame and swings freely.

When hit, it makes a completely different sound than you get when you miss the hole and hit the front target, which can't move. Thus, you can instantly tell by sound whether you have a hit or miss no matter what range you are shooting at.

You can either paint the back plate a different color than the front for contrast, say white vs black, or the same as the front, say black and black so there is no distinct aiming point. You can also paint the back plate white on one side and black on the other and reverse it on whim.

Regards
John
 
Whatever configuration you use, get AR400 or harder steel. Mild steel pits and leads to craters that send stuff in unpredictable directions. It can work but doesn't last as long. If you have a lever system that you pull to lift the plates, weight the lever so it falls back away from the plate and make it so the plates angle forward a little bit. The most consistent cause to flying debris back at the shooter I've seen at our club is when the lever is mistakenling left up right behind the plate. The plates don't fall freely and the jacketing and lead comes back towards the shooter. Ouch.

The best stuff: http://www.gttargets.com
 

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