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I own stainless Savage AXIS rifles in both .223 and .308. My 7 year old daughter own a Savage MK II in .22LR. My wife owns a Ruger Mini 14 Ranch Rifle. All have had steel-cased Tula, Brown Bear and Silver Bear ammo run through them, hundreds of rounds, with no negative results. The rounds fed, fired and ejected positively. I think little Jill had one hangfire with a steel-cased .22 rimfire, but that was a faulty primer, not the rifle itself. Tell your son not to worry and have fun with his Savage Scout.My son has a Savage Scout 308. Would you use steel case ammo like Wolf or Tulammo?
Called the mfg and as I expected they said they don't recommend it. So, I'm asking the experts here.
Thanks
Your ak shoots steel because Brass x39 is to expensiveDepends on the rifle. My surplus rifles where replacement parts aren't cheap get brass (plus I load for them anyway).
For AR-15s you can usually afford a new barrel or two by the time you wear it would wear it out and still come out ahead if you go the steel route.
My AKs only shoot steel...my ARs I shoot both.
I did have a friend recently get a stuck case on Wolf .223, first time I ever saw it. Smith had to remove it.
Have to save those .311 projectiles for Mosin and 303 British.Your ak shoots steel because Brass x39 is to expensive
Lol yep. I wish I could afford to feed my AK with brass.Your ak shoots steel because Brass x39 is to expensive
It isn't the casing and a slightly higher probability of a malfunction at the range that bothers me.
It's the quality of the projectile. I just cant bring myself to shoot it in a quality gun I plan on keeping long term.
Granted this test was extreme but it shows the cheaper bullets wear barrels faster.
Brass vs. Steel Cased Ammo - An Epic Torture Test"
Basically this. I hear people cry about "I might break my extractor and wear out my barrel!" Meanwhile you can buy a new extractor and a new barrel and still have money leftover.So, after doing some math, Target Sports reference, 5K rds of Wolf - $1800; Tulammo $1498; Federal brass $3747. I'd buy the steel, shoot up the 5K rounds, take the $2K I saved and buy another rifle, still saving about $1300.
Why is the steel case anything to worry about? *Usually* I consider the Wolf or Tulammo's dirty and corrosive nature potentially problematic. But a good run-through with some Hoppe's #9 on a bore snake and my worries are gone.
What would be the issue with the steel cases themselves?
Why is the steel case anything to worry about? *Usually* I consider the Wolf or Tulammo's dirty and corrosive nature potentially problematic. But a good run-through with some Hoppe's #9 on a bore snake and my worries are gone.
What would be the issue with the steel cases themselves?
That only works if you put the difference away.So, after doing some math, Target Sports reference, 5K rds of Wolf - $1800; Tulammo $1498; Federal brass $3747. I'd buy the steel, shoot up the 5K rounds, take the $2K I saved and buy another rifle, still saving about $1300.
Accuracy tends to really suckI stand corrected, which is probably a good thing.
So, the answer remains -- why NOT use steel-case ammo? Can anyone offer any reasons not to?
Right and if your shooting enough that your extractor wears or breaks and barrel starts keyholing you should have no problem affording new parts or even a new rifle.Basically this. I hear people cry about "I might break my extractor and wear out my barrel!" Meanwhile you can buy a new extractor and a new barrel and still have money leftover.
I almost picked up a case of the Geco x39 when it dipped below .30c rnd. Its .35 round now. But steel is .20 and my x39 guns wont see any difference.Lol yep. I wish I could afford to feed my AK with brass.