Small S&W Model 10 problem (I hope)

[Garys]

I just picked up a Model 10-6 of early 1970s vintage. The price was right, and the weapon looks very clean. You can see photos over in the gun gallery forum.

Everything seems tight and it feels good. There is one problem which I hope is small. One of the detents on the cylinder doesn't hold. I can move the cylinder by hand when that detent is engaging the cylinder stop. The other five are fine, the timing seems fine, there's no unusual wear on that detent, no damage to the rest of the weapon.

I'm planning to bring this to the S&W tour and leave if for service if it needs it, but does anyone have any thoughts?

Thanks,

Gary

 

[Pilgrim]

I'm planning to bring this to the S&W tour and leave if for service if it needs it,

That's the correct thing to do IMHO.

 

[Garys]

That's the correct thing to do IMHO.

I don't doubt it. Unless there is a local gunsmith that's familiar with S&W revolvers. I'd just like to get an idea of what's going on with it.

Gary

 

[TY43215]

I just picked up a Model 10-6 of early 1970s vintage. The price was right, and the weapon looks very clean. You can see photos over in the gun gallery forum.

Everything seems tight and it feels good. There is one problem which I hope is small. One of the detents on the cylinder doesn't hold. I can move the cylinder by hand when that detent is engaging the cylinder stop. The other five are fine, the timing seems fine, there's no unusual wear on that detent, no damage to the rest of the weapon.

I'm planning to bring this to the S&W tour and leave if for service if it needs it, but does anyone have any thoughts?

Thanks,

Gary

Please do not take anything as me being a smart ass on this (My dear wife tells me I am)

Why would you try to move the cylinder by hand?

What happens when you are moving it by hand? Are you lifting it off the stop?

Is there any sign of wear on the "detent"?

Have you had the side plate off?

Answer these and I can keep going.

Most likely answers to the problem:

1. There is nothing wrong.
2. There is dirt between the step of the cylinder stop and the frame preventing the stop from coming up as high as necessary.
3. Stop is worn
4. Barrel of Yoke is bent allowing the cylinder to lift off the stop
5. There is nothing wrong (did I say that already?) (OK, that was the smart ass response

 

[Garys]

Please do not take anything as me being a smart ass on this (My dear wife tells me I am)

Why would you try to move the cylinder by hand?

I was checking to see how the cylinder looked up. I'm not sure that there IS anything wrong. Just that my other Model 10 and my 442 don't do it. Everything else feels tight, the cylinder - barrel gap is minimal, the weapon obviously was fired little.

What happens when you are moving it by hand? Are you lifting it off the stop?

I don't think so. There shouldn't be that much play, should there?

Is there any sign of wear on the "detent"?

Not that I can see. It looks just like the other five

Have you had the side plate off?

Yes. Clean as can be. I just lubed Breakfree and put the side plate back on.

Most likely answers to the problem:

1. There is nothing wrong.
2. There is dirt between the step of the cylinder stop and the frame preventing the stop from coming up as high as necessary.
3. Stop is worn
4. Barrel of Yoke is bent allowing the cylinder to lift off the stop
5. There is nothing wrong (did I say that already?) (OK, that was the smart ass response

It may well be 1 & 5. <G> Any of the others and I'd think that the problem would be consistent between all positions. Or not? I'm by no means an expert, but I've looked at a lot of S&W revolvers over the past couple of years and this one doesn't show much wear. It seems to have spent most of it's life in the previous owner's safe.

I just want to be sure.

Gary

 

[TY43215]

So here is my best guess from working on these things since 1981.

Slight bit of play in the cylinder will allow you to lift it off the stop. If the yoke or rod are bent even a little this can occur. The other possibility is stop needs to be fitted a little better.

It's funny, I hear the statement a lot that a gun was not shot a lot. I have shot S&W revolvers since 1973 and have worked on them since attending the school in 1981 and I still can not tell whether a gun has been shot a lot or not. I can tell if it has been properly maintained, but that is about it.

You need to look at my carry revolvers and see how little they show wear. They have been shot a LOT but it would be hard to determine that if I put them back in their proper S&W boxes and out for sale.

On that note, these things were manufactured to be shot. The 10-6 is a fantastic revolver and will hold up to daily shooting with no problem for a lot of years. As for lubrication, all the lock work of a S&W revolver needs is three drops of a good lubricant. I recommend Corrosion X. It is the best I have found.

Don't know where you are, but if you ever want it looked at, let me know. Leaving it at S&W will cost you the cleaning charge but will give you peace of mind. Just remember, although they are not bad, any parts they replace will be MIM.



Regards,

 

[Garys]

Slight bit of play in the cylinder will allow you to lift it off the stop. If the yoke or rod are bent even a little this can occur. The other possibility is stop needs to be fitted a little better.

Thanks.

I can tell if it has been properly maintained, but that is about it.

This is probably closer to what I meant, or at least a better way of saying it.

On that note, these things were manufactured to be shot. The 10-6 is a fantastic revolver and will hold up to daily shooting with no problem for a lot of years. As for lubrication, all the lock work of a S&W revolver needs is three drops of a good lubricant. I recommend Corrosion X. It is the best I have found.

Thanks. Where do I find it.

Don't know where you are, but if you ever want it looked at, let me know. Leaving it at S&W will cost you the cleaning charge but will give you peace of mind. Just remember, although they are not bad, any parts they replace will be MIM.

I'm west of the canal. <G> Any idea what the cleaning charge is? I didn't see it on their site.

I take it MIM means Made in Massachusetts.

Thanks again.

Gary

 

[TY43215]

Thanks.



This is probably closer to what I meant, or at least a better way of saying it.



Thanks. Where do I find it.



I'm west of the canal. <G> Any idea what the cleaning charge is? I didn't see it on their site.

I take it MIM means Made in Massachusetts.

Thanks again.

Gary

West of the Canal huh? You must live in the United States

Corrosion X can be bought on line. Do not get the aerosol. (Never use aerosol lubricants) http://www.corrosionx.com/gun_use.html

MIM is Metal Injection molded. Not the same as the parts in your current revolver. Many say they are inferior. I disagree but I prefer stainless parts and after stainless, carbon steel.

Charge for the cleaning is listed as safety check. Parts are additional but labor is $25 Here is the link PC Services

Regards,

 

[squarooticus]

I take it MIM means Made in Massachusetts.

Metal injection molding.

Kyle

 

[Garys]

West of the Canal huh? You must live in the United States

About 45 minutes away from the Bourne Bridge. Or MMA, where my son went. We spent a lot of time on The Cape because he played in various Summer leagues down there.

Corrosion X can be bought on line. Do not get the aerosol. (Never use aerosol lubricants) http://www.corrosionx.com/gun_use.html

Thanks. Why no aerosols?

MIM is Metal Injection molded. Not the same as the parts in your current revolver. Many say they are inferior. I disagree but I prefer stainless parts and after stainless, carbon steel.

Thanks for the definition. And thanks to squarooticus for the link. Learned something new.

Charge for the cleaning is listed as safety check. Parts are additional but labor is $25 Here is the link PC Services

Regards,

I didn't think to look under the Performance Center.

Thanks for all of the information.

Gary

 

[TY43215]

About 45 minutes away from the Bourne Bridge. Or MMA, where my son went. We spent a lot of time on The Cape because he played in various Summer leagues down there.

Nice, if you ever venture down this way, let me know.

Thanks. Why no aerosols?
Gary

They cause rust

Regards,

 

[Jose]

They cause rust

Some might. Not all. Or the rust might have been from some other cause.

I regularly hose down the trigger group of my ARs with brake cleaner. It will rust if not relubed, but who would leave it dry?

I avoid aerosols because they deliver too much lube too quickly. Not because they cause corrosion.

 

[Garys]

Don't know where you are, but if you ever want it looked at, let me know. Leaving it at S&W will cost you the cleaning charge but will give you peace of mind. Just remember, although they are not bad, any parts they replace will be MIM.
Regards,

I tried to PM you, but the board won't send it to you. Can you email me at [email protected]?

Thanks,

Gary

 

[TY43215]

I tried to PM you, but the board won't send it to you. Can you email me at ?

Thanks,

Gary

Done