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School me on Lever Actions (please?)

I used bullseye mostly but 700x from time to time. I forgot what charge weights I'm using but they were middle of the road. I don't have my recipe cards with me.
Load 10 and try them.
If you get leading you can always try to tumble lube them with some 45/45/10 lube from white label. That should solve the problem
 
Load 10 and try them.
If you get leading you can always try to tumble lube them with some 45/45/10 lube from white label. That should solve the problem
Yeah that's ways the best way I know....small batches and test. Was trying to get ahead of the game and not even try em in the rifle if someone on here had definite leading problems with swaged lead in a carbine.
 
Sons Henry 357 carbine is even better now with the addition of skinner rear sight. The peep sight makes a huge difference worth every penny. She does shoot high with the peep bottomed out but I was able to do this target with a 6oclock hold......25 yards on my elbows using my reloads of 158 grain clrn over 3.7 grains 700x. No leading noticed in the bore when we were done and we fired about 150 rounds of clrn through her.

The thing cycles 38 or 357 perfectly since the trip back to the factory.

20191229_191446.jpg
 
Sons Henry 357 carbine is even better now with the addition of skinner rear sight. The peep sight makes a huge difference worth every penny. She does shoot high with the peep bottomed out but I was able to do this target with a 6oclock hold......25 yards on my elbows using my reloads of 158 grain clrn over 3.7 grains 700x. No leading noticed in the bore when we were done and we fired about 150 rounds of clrn through her.

The thing cycles 38 or 357 perfectly since the trip back to the factory.

View attachment 321045
That's some sweet shooting
 
She does shoot high with the peep bottomed out but I was able to do this target with a 6oclock hold

After Henry re-barreled my 44 to give me the new style magazine tube bracket (after my magazine tube cracked), mine, which was previously sighted dead on, shot a little high. I was able to get another half-turn down down out of my Skinner by filing the bottom of the stem. Easiest thing is to slide the windage block out of the sight entirely and then lower the stem to the lowest position that it can reach. Then remove however much stem is showing underneath the windage block. A half turn should move your POI down almost 0.6" at 25 yards, which is not enough with those loads, but it might be enough to bring it dead-on with hotter loads. FYI, when removing the stem to do anything to it, there's a piece of lead shot between the elevation set screw and the stem, or at least there should be.
 
Sons Henry 357 carbine is even better now with the addition of skinner rear sight. The peep sight makes a huge difference worth every penny. She does shoot high with the peep bottomed out but I was able to do this target with a 6oclock hold......25 yards on my elbows using my reloads of 158 grain clrn over 3.7 grains 700x. No leading noticed in the bore when we were done and we fired about 150 rounds of clrn through her.

The thing cycles 38 or 357 perfectly since the trip back to the factory.

View attachment 321045
Can’t ask for much more than that! I want to get a 357 Henry to go with my all weather Henry 44 but I’m waiting for them to make a sideloading all weather 357. Can’t bring myself to spend the money on the Marlin CSBL 357 when it’s almost $1k and the QC from Marlin seems to be hit or miss.
 
Can’t ask for much more than that! I want to get a 357 Henry to go with my all weather Henry 44 but I’m waiting for them to make a sideloading all weather 357. Can’t bring myself to spend the money on the Marlin CSBL 357 when it’s almost $1k and the QC from Marlin seems to be hit or miss.
Not sure what the price tag will be on Henry side gate 357. They seem to be releasing them in high end brass receivers first.

The steel carbine 357s run about $750 as they are now with no gate.
 
Not sure what the price tag will be on Henry side gate 357. They seem to be releasing them in high end brass receivers first.

The steel carbine 357s run about $750 as they are now with no gate.
I'm a stainless fanatic and don't want the blued or regular steel models [laugh]
Yes, first world problems...[laugh]
 
I just picked up a Rossi 92, .357/.38 stainless (in my price range). Spent a little time slicking it up, polishing a few rough edges, lubing it, put in a spring kit.
Night and day difference. Receiver sight is next. I think I'm really going to enjoy this gun.
 
My Marlin 1894 CSBL .357:

View attachment 326380

Been tempted by that Marlin. Good reviews on its quality, not cheap, and not often in stock.

Now that Henry has their Big Boy X model out, we know that they are tooled up for putting the loading gate on the Big Boy Steel receivers. The new X model doesn't interest me, but I'm thinking that there will be other Big Boy Steel models with loading gates within a couple of years.
 
Been tempted by that Marlin. Good reviews on its quality, not cheap, and not often in stock.

Now that Henry has their Big Boy X model out, we know that they are tooled up for putting the loading gate on the Big Boy Steel receivers. The new X model doesn't interest me, but I'm thinking that there will be other Big Boy Steel models with loading gates within a couple of years.
Same. I read that the loading gate is extremely stiff on the marlins so I'm just going to wait it out for when Henry releases their side loader 357...
 
I just picked up a Rossi 92, .357/.38 stainless (in my price range). Spent a little time slicking it up, polishing a few rough edges, lubing it, put in a spring kit.
Night and day difference. Receiver sight is next. I think I'm really going to enjoy this gun.

I have an engraved blued Rossi in .38/.357 that I bought back around 1987 or so. It's probably got around 500 rounds through it. I bought it because it was beautiful (still is); and I only shoot it occasionally.
 
Same. I read that the loading gate is extremely stiff on the marlins so I'm just going to wait it out for when Henry releases their side loader 357...

FYI, this is another way to go:


provided the caliber of 1894CSBL you want is in stock somewhere you shop. One hurdle I have to clear at the 1894CSBL price point is trusting Marlin's after sale service will be responsive and effective if I happen to need them, which given my usual lever gun round counts, is probably not that unlikely. With Henry, I know any problem I have will be taken care of by one method or another, and taken care of relatively quickly and without evasion. Whether it is due to normal wear or defect does not seem to matter to Henry.
 
FYI, this is another way to go:


provided the caliber of 1894CSBL you want is in stock somewhere you shop. One hurdle I have to clear at the 1894CSBL price point is trusting Marlin's after sale service will be responsive and effective if I happen to need them, which given my usual lever gun round counts, is probably not that unlikely. With Henry, I know any problem I have will be taken care of by one method or another, and taken care of relatively quickly and without evasion. Whether it is due to normal wear or defect does not seem to matter to Henry.
Good to know! Thanks.

Yes the price point and warranty service is another concern.

With Henry, they don't even question anything. They just send prepaid label to ship it back or they send me parts for free no questions asked.
 
Any issues with the loading gate? I read on a couple other forums that it gets VERY stiff/hard to after you have a couple rounds loaded?

@andrew1220 I have one Andrew and it depends on how you do it. The easiest way is to not push the round all the way in so the gate closes after it. Then you not only need to depress the gate but push the rounds already in the mag forward a little bit as you're opening the gate to get another in. Push the round until just the headstamp is still showing, then push the next round against it and so on. When you get to the last round, push the whole thing in.
 
@andrew1220 I have one Andrew and it depends on how you do it. The easiest way is to not push the round all the way in so the gate closes after it. Then you not only need to depress the gate but push the rounds already in the mag forward a little bit as you're opening the gate to get another in. Push the round until just the headstamp is still showing, then push the next round against it and so on. When you get to the last round, push the whole thing in.
Ohh that makes sense. So have one in 357?! You've been pleased with it so far?

Looks like there is an easy fix for it according to this video?...Apparently it's a burr inside the magazine tube that needs to be "dremeled"...
 
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Ohh that makes sense. So have one in 357?! You've been pleased with it so far?

Yeah I have a pre-Remington Marlin in 357 and love it. I had a post Remington as well and it great, no problems at all with it and it was quite accurate too. Couldn't pass up the early JM one though! You're welcome to try it if you like. It'll eat the hottest loads you want to try in it. Hotter than I'd run in any handgun!
 
Any issues with the loading gate? I read on a couple other forums that it gets VERY stiff/hard to after you have a couple rounds loaded?

IMHO, its no stiffer than any other new lever gun.

I was also going to suggest the ranger point precision gate upgrade to you, but I see that Meh beat me to it.
 
IMHO, its no stiffer than any other new lever gun.

I was also going to suggest the ranger point precision gate upgrade to you, but I see that Meh beat me to it.
Did you install the ranger point gate? Just curious if there was any tweaking you did with yours.
 
Henry_X_Model.jpg

available in: .45 Colt, .357/.38 Spl, .44 Mag/.44 Spl /.45-70/.410 shot shell
Big Boy X-Model is packed with a high-performance feature set and plenty of room to add even more. The durable synthetic furniture is equipped with integrated mounting points for a sling, a solid rubber recoil pad, and both Picatinny and M-Lok accessory slots to aid in mounting the tools you need for the task at hand. The carbine-length barrel is topped off with highly visible fiber optic sights, fore and aft, and the muzzle end is threaded (5/8×24 thread pitch) to accept a suppressor or other muzzle device. A screw-on thread protector ensures your muzzle threads stay in top shape.
TAKE MY MONEY NOW!
NOW G-D DAMNIT NOW!
 
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Looks like there is an easy fix for it according to this video?...Apparently it's a burr inside the magazine tube that needs to be "dremeled"...

Interesting, I never thought of trying to smooth that lip out. I knew it was there where the tube connects to the receiver. I peeked in one day to see why it was catching when you start to load it and could see a slight gap between the two parts. Once you get a feel for it you just know the angle to use when pushing the cartridges in.

One thing I did notice when I tried shooting some blazer aluminum 357 158gr is that extraction took a lot more effort than with brass. But I think that's just the nature of the beast, probably the same with any lever gun. Brass is much more slippery and lets go much easier.
 
Interesting, I never thought of trying to smooth that lip out. I knew it was there where the tube connects to the receiver. I peeked in one day to see why it was catching when you start to load it and could see a slight gap between the two parts. Once you get a feel for it you just know the angle to use when pushing the cartridges in.

One thing I did notice when I tried shooting some blazer aluminum 357 158gr is that extraction took a lot more effort than with brass. But I think that's just the nature of the beast, probably the same with any lever gun. Brass is much more slippery and lets go much easier.
Different metal, different thermal properties. Aluminum likely expands more?
That’s my WAG.
 
provided the caliber of 1894CSBL you want is in stock somewhere you shop. One hurdle I have to clear at the 1894CSBL price point is trusting Marlin's after sale service will be responsive and effective if I happen to need them, which given my usual lever gun round counts, is probably not that unlikely. With Henry, I know any problem I have will be taken care of by one method or another, and taken care of relatively quickly and without evasion. Whether it is due to normal wear or defect does not seem to matter to Henry.
I gambled and decided to buy the 1894 CSBL that was in the classifieds today. I feel I betrayed my loyalty to Henry... [laugh]

Seems to be very well made and the action and trigger are smooth - VERY close to my Henry. It's really light weight and super handy! Can't wait to shoot it this weekend! My first ever side loading lever gun! I'll use the iron sights for now but I may slap on a cheap Primary Arms red dot or possibly a scope later on....
@NHCraigT is that a PA red dot on yours?
 
I gambled and decided to buy the 1894 CSBL that was in the classifieds today. I feel I betrayed my loyalty to Henry... [laugh]

Seems to be very well made and the action and trigger are smooth - VERY close to my Henry. It's really light weight and super handy! Can't wait to shoot it this weekend! My first ever side loading lever gun! I'll use the iron sights for now but I may slap on a cheap Primary Arms red dot or possibly a scope later on....
@NHCraigT is that a PA red dot on yours?
Prepare to disown your henry rifles
 
@andrew1220 I was eyeballing that thing but already had the Henry Big Boy in that caliber. That is going to be a fun gun. I have to say though, my Henry Big Boy has a ridiculously nice trigger. My Marlin 1895GBL does not come close. But man I do love love my Marlin :)

I wish I never knew about lever action rifles. They have consumed me of late. Eh, who am I kidding. Pete
 
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