Rust Prevention Test #2

[kevin9]

I started another rust prevention test today. I used some products from the last test and some new ones:

• Synthetic CV grease
• Hoppe's #9 cleaner
• 10w30 motor oil
• Zero Friction Lubricant
• TopSaver
• BreakFree CLP
• BoeShield T9 (new)
• Blaster Corrosion Stop (new)
• AMSOil Metal Protector-Heavy Duty (new thanks to Chris!)
• ATF+3 transmission fluid (new)
• Dextron III transmission fluid (new)
• WD40 (new)
• White lithium grease (new)

To prepare the metal I used a degreaser to clean the remnants of the old test off, then a wire wheel on the grinder to remove the rust, then an acid-based rust remover to get any remaining rust, followed by more degreaser, and finishing with some steel wool. There are a few pits that seemed a bit dark but I'm sure the rust remover got down in there.

Application was slightly different this time. Each item was applied with a clean piece of patching like last time, but after letting it sit for a few minutes I went back and lightly wiped off obvious excess with clean patches.

The biggest difference with this approach was the CV grease. The old test piece still had an obvious layer of grease on it even at the end. This time there is still a thin layer of grease there, but it is not obvious.

Here's the new test strip. I didn't use the flash so it's a bit darker at the top:

I'll start posting results in a day or 2, depending upon weather.

 

[kevin9]

Quick update. Just looked at the metal in the rain: Water was beading up on all but the WD40, 0 Friction and CV grease. It was a clear sheet laying up off the metal on those 3. I do believe this test will run longer than the last one. Last time I saw rust in less than a day after 1 shower.

 

[kevin9]

I restarted the second rust test today. Nothing was rusting after 2 weeks, not even the supposed bare-metal control section. Obviously something I used to clean the last test left a residue: It was either the rust remover that comes with BoeShield or the 505 DeGreaser. This time I only used brake cleaner and MP-7 cleaner, and then wire-brushed the whole top on the grinder before applying the new stuff.

Here's what's on the new sample

• Synthetic CV grease
• Zero Friction Lubricant
• Hoppe's #9 cleaner
• Otis CLP (new)
• MP-7 Gun Oil (new)
• BoeShield T9 (new)
• AMSOil Metal Protector-Heavy Duty (new, thanks to Chris!)
• ATF+3 transmission fluid (new)
• Dextron III transmission fluid (new)
• WD40 (new)
• White lithium grease (new)
• 505 DeGreaser (new)
• 10w30 motor oil

I forgot to include the Blaster Corrosion-Stop. Maybe I'll do a quick run-off after this one.
Here's the picture:

I'll post updates over the next couple of days and weeks.

 

[6hold]

I'm eagerly watching the "Rust Prevention Test #2" (thank you kevin9) like many others out here but I have a question. What ever happened to good ol’ 3 in 1 oil? I still use it and never had any trouble with it but haven’t heard many others that still use it. If I remember correctly, I believe that it's not good on wood stocks. There are probably better products out there now and the odor of the 3 in 1 is not the most pleasant, that’s for sure.

 

[Chris]

I also just got some new stuff called "Weapon Shield" to add to the next round of testing. (^_^)

This is by the same guy who made FP-10 who left MPC and started his own company SteelShield Technologies.

http://www.steelshieldtech.com/

I've got some samples of his product, and so far it seems to work as advertised.

Click the following image for a PDF of the product.



They do not have on-line ordering setup as of yet, but you can order it by calling (800) 390-1535

The current price list was e-mailed to me, but you can access it HERE as a pdf file. I can not vouch for how long these prices are good for.

If you want more information, please contact the inventor directly at:

"George C. Fennell, L.E." <[email protected]>

 

[Chris]

One thing to note... Some of the products listed say that they "Treat the metal". I wonder if you might need to grind off a significant amount in order to remove the 'protection'. Will be interesting to see how things go.

Thanks for doing this Kevin.

 

[boomerang]

I also just got some new stuff called "Weapon Shield" to add to the next round of testing. (^_^)

This is by the same guy who made FP-10 who left MPC and started his own company SteelShield Technologies.

http://www.steelshieldtech.com/

That stuff looks like I might try some.
It looks to be a very light oil at 1.07 sg = about a 9 weight oil.
I think fp10 is a very good gun oil, so maybe this stuff will be even better.

 

[Junglerott]

Have you thought of adding gun butter to the line up?

 

[kevin9]

Looks like I am going to have to restart the test and grind the metal this time. The control section still is not rusting. The only part that has any rust on it is the 505 Degreaser and then only in the scratches where I had partially ground that section of the bar.

Plan C is to use the 4" angle grinder. That ought to take off a nice even layer of metal. I'll try to get to it some evening this week.

I'm still trying to figure what it is that is leaving the residue. I know it's not the 505, I'm sure it's not the MP7 cleaner due to it's poor performance in the first test, I really doubt it's the brake cleaner. The only thing I can think of is the RustFree (came with the Boeshield T9) I used after the first test. Whatever it is is pretty persistent to stand up to a good wirebrushing on the grinder.

Folks who have something they'd like to see added to the test can PM me if they want to contribute a sample.

 

[kevin9]

It appears that the third time is the charm. I restarted the test last night after grinding the surface of the bar with a 4" angle grinder, wire brushing it and leaving out for 2 nights. It had a nice sheen of rust on it so I reground it and restarted the test. It went up last night and there are already a few small rust spots on the control section. Everything else is clean.

Here's the list of items. Chris has provided another item for the test, Weapons Shield. We'll see how it does.

• Synthetic CV grease
• White lithium grease (new)
• Hoppe's #9 cleaner
• Zero Friction Lubricant
• MP-7 Gun Oil (new)
• Weapon Shield (new, thanks to Chris!)
• BoeShield T9 (new)
• Rust Free (new)
• AMSOil Metal Protector-Heavy Duty (new, thanks to Chris!)
• Blaster Corrosion-Stop (new)
• ATF+3 transmission fluid (new)
• Dextron III transmission fluid (new)
• WD40 (new)
• Otis CLP (new)

 

[boomerang]

My dibs are on Boeshield.

 

[Chris]

OK, been a week, how are things going?

 

[kevin9]

Sorry, I've been real busy.

There's not much going on with it. The control section has a few rust spots. Nothing on anything else. We've not had any rain since I put it up so there's not been much to cause anything to rust. I keep meaning to mist it with some water now and then but don't remember when I'm outside with the hose.

 

[kevin9]

It looks like there's finally been enough moisture in the air to get some rust going. Look at it in the light today there was more rust evident than last night.

Here are the results after 13 days:

Rust Spotted

• Control
• Rust Free (advertised as a rust cleaner)
• Otis CLP (Breakfree CLP did a bit better)

Lightly Spotted

• Blaster Corrosion-Stop

Very Lightly Spotted

• BoeShield T9 (similar performance to TopSaver; both are wax, not oil based. Both are OK for woodworking equipment where oil can affect finishing of wood.)

Clean

• Synthetic CV grease
• White lithium grease
• Hoppe's #9 cleaner
• Zero Friction Lubricant
• MP-7 Gun Oil
• Weapon Shield
• AMSOil Metal Protector-Heavy Duty
• ATF+3 transmission fluid
• Dextron III transmission fluid
• WD40

p.s. I put some water on it so we should see some acceleration.

 

[kevin9]

Update as of August 27th, Monday evening (15 days).

We had some rain Saturday evening and that seems to have moved the test along.

Clean
Valvoline Synthetic CV Grease
White Lithium Grease

Very Lightly Spotted
Zero Friction Lube
Weapon Shield
Dextron III

Lightly Spotted
Hoppe's #9 cleaner
MP-7 Gun Oil
AMSOil Metal Protector-Heavy Duty
ATF +3
WD40

Spotted
BoeShield T9
Blaster Corrosion-Stop

Heavily Spotted
Rust Free

Rusted
Otis CLP
none (control)

Lessons learned so far. For my guns I plan to use CV grease to lubricate where it makes sense (ex. rails and locking blocks) and Zero Friction everywhere else that needs lubrication. For the outside I plan to use the MP-7 oil although I may get a bottle of the Weapons Shield when that runs out.

For cleaning I've been using MP-7 cleaner for the initial cleaning of barrels and slides. I then switch to Hoppe's #7 for the rest of the cleaning and use that on the last patch through the barrel. I use Hoppe's on the actions unless they're really dirty and I want to totally remove all lubrication, then I'll use MP-7.

For woodworking equipment I'll use either Topsaver or Boeshield depending upon which is cheaper. For automotive I'll use Blaster or MPHD. I'll probably use up the Breakfree and Otis CLP for automotive and around the workshop.

 

[clinotus]

Great information!

 

[Chris]

If anyone is interested, I can get the Amsoil Metal Protector HD for about $4.50 for a 16 oz can if I order case quantity. (I get wholesale on every Amsoil product, just ask)

If there is enough interest to order a full case, I'll do it and just charge what I was charged.

Here is the info: http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/amh.aspx

Suppose to be great for Motorcycle chains. I've used it to keep my garage doors running smooth and on various lawn and garden equipment.

 

[EddieCoyle]

It looks like I'm going to stick with white lithium grease for the sliding stuff and ATF for everything else. A few bucks will get me a lifetime supply.


I'll still use MPro7 and brake cleaner for cleaning though.

 

[Coyote33]

It seems like you just let it rain on the sample and then watched for results. I wonder how the results would be with a reapplication of any of these, which is what most people would typically do if something got wet. The main idea is for minimal effort to keep it rust free. Another consideration is which of these is OK to leave on working parts or inside a barrel and how easy or hard it is to remove, if necessary. Thanks for doing this though.

 

[kevin9]

It seems like you just let it rain on the sample and then watched for results. I wonder how the results would be with a reapplication of any of these, which is what most people would typically do if something got wet.

Yes, the sample bar has been hanging up against the side of the house in the weather. The question being investigated is how well do these products protect the underlying metal from moisture. Reapplying is like restarting the test.

The main idea is for minimal effort to keep it rust free.

The premise I have been working on is that products that protect for some weeks from rain will provide equal or better protection from humidity in normal storage and regular use. I suspect that many are like myself that they have guns, or parts of guns, that do not receive attention for weeks (months?) at a time. I'd like to have some confidence that what I am using on my guns will protect for a couple of weeks to a few months under normal storage and use. If you are willing and able to reapply frequently (weekly?), and completely, then most anything I've tested will do.

Another consideration is which of these is OK to leave on working parts or inside a barrel and how easy or hard it is to remove, if necessary. Thanks for doing this though.

Those are different questions that could be investigated by different test protocols. For example, to test this I would apply them to a sample, let it sit inside, and observe when the materials become gummy or dry out.

The next set of tests I would like to run would be to test the cleaning efficacy of various products with powder residue. I'm still trying to figure out how to create an appropriate dirty sample on which to test various cleaning products.

One thought is to sprinkle a very thin layer of powder on a piece of clean steel and light it. I've not tried it to see what happens or whether it leaves an appropriate residue.

The other thought has been to use an acetylene torch with a smoky flame (no oxygen) to soot up a piece of steel. I don't know how representative this would be of powder residue on a gun.

I'm open for suggestions on this one.

 

[Chris]

I'm open for suggestions on this one.

Get some volunteers at the next <MEMBERS ONLY> shoot and have 'em clean real guns after a heavy day of shooting.

 

[kevin9]

Another update as of this evening. Everything now has some degree of rust.

Very, Very Lightly Spotted
Valvoline Synthetic CV Grease
White Lithium Grease
Weapon Shield

Very Lightly Spotted
Zero Friction Lube
Dextron III

Lightly Spotted
Hoppe's #9 cleaner
MP-7 Gun Oil
AMSOil Metal Protector-Heavy Duty
ATF +3

Spotted
WD40

Heavily Spotted
BoeShield T9
Blaster Corrosion-Stop

Rusted
Rust Free
Otis CLP
none (control)

 

[second]

Looks like I am going to have to find some weapon shield, constant maintenance on multiple rifles/handguns can be way time consuming.

Does everyone here use a golden rod in their safe?

Hey Kevin
much appreciation for the testing, great job!

 

[kevin9]

It's been 1 month for this test. I'm going to declare it complete. Here are the final test results

Very Lightly Spotted
Valvoline Synthetic CV Grease

Lightly Spotted
White Lithium Grease

Spotted
Weapon Shield
AMSOil Metal Protector-Heavy Duty
WD40

Heavily Spotted
Hoppe's #9 cleaner
Zero Friction Lube
MP-7 Gun Oil
Dextron III
BoeShield T9
Blaster Corrosion-Stop

Very Heavily Spotted
ATF +3

Rusted
Rust Free
Otis CLP
none (control)

Here's the picture:

Here's my conclusions: Grease is best, be it CV or lithium. Next after these would be Weapon Shield, although it lost ground to the AMSOil MPHD and WD40 in the last 2 weeks. Zero Friction, Hoppe's #9 and the MP-7 Gun Oil also faded quite a bit the last 2 weeks. Boeshield, WD-40 and Blaster held their own over the last 2 weeks. AMSOil MPHD held up well but for gun use I don't like that it has a bit of a brownish tinge. Otis CLP was interesting: It quickly developed a light patina of rust, but then except for some spotting around the edges it stayed that way.

My recommendations would be to use grease wherever possible and Weapon Shield everywhere else. I'll still use Zero Friction for a few spots (ex. sears) as it seems a bit slicker to me than any of the others, but I wouldn't hesitate to use Weapon Shield for these spots as well. For cleaning I'll use Hoppe's #9, although I'll start with MP-7 cleaner if heavily fouled.

Thanks all.

 

[Coyote33]

I wonder how cosmoline would have fared.