rmr sight

[greencobra]

alright, the achilles heel of a cheap optic of this type is the same malady a budget scope has...parallax issues. trying to chase that dot around. there's other issues but the parallax is the deal killer.

Getting your draw so the dot is in the window every time is key.

i guess this is what your saying.

yeah, not conducive to quick, follow up shots. glad i didn't send off the slide to be cut.

 

[allen-1]

I had my Glock 34 Gen 3 milled out years ago for an rmr. Came out great.

I also recently bought a G45 with the RMR cut (or something similar) with the glock plate. I can't tell much of a difference between them. They both work fine. I know people hate plates but I don't know why and I haven't noticed problems

The problem with plates is that you now have an additional two, or perhaps more, tiny screws that are subject to failure.

I have both setups. I have G41 (.45) w/SRO, G31 (.357Sig) w/RMR, and G34 (9mm) w/SRO. These all have milled slides. The optics bolt directly to the slide, and are marked with paint so I can see if the screws are backing out.

I have a G17 setup for GSSF's MOS class. It's got an adapter plate and an RMR.

There IS a difference in bore height, but not one that makes any difference to me. If I was olympic class bullseye shooter - maybe it would matter - maybe.

 

[allen-1]

alright, the achilles heel of a cheap optic of this type is the same malady a budget scope has...parallax issues. trying to chase that dot around. there's other issues but the parallax is the deal killer.

i guess this is what your saying.

yeah, not conducive to quick, follow up shots. glad i didn't send off the slide to be cut.

Cheap optics suck. You can do quick followup shots with an optic. It's all about putting the time in practicing.

I shot a rimfire match yesterday. There was a side match for fun. One popper, about 14 inches high, 3 inches wide, at 75 feet or so. Loaded firearm on barrel, hands on head. At the buzzer, pick up your gun and shoot at the popper until you hit it, (or give up).

I was shooting .22's with 8moa dots, the dot was wider than the popper. These are Burris Fastfire 3's; "good" but not "great" optics, and quite sufficient for .22.

I hit the popper with my first shot with the pistol, and my first and second shots with the rifle. I thought I'd missed it so I shot it again. Time based on beep/last_shot_fired.

It's all about practice. I wasn't hurrying on these shots, I was focused on making the shot. Put the dot on the target and pull the trigger without moving the dot.

 

[Cap'n Mike]

alright, the achilles heel of a cheap optic of this type is the same malady a budget scope has...parallax issues. trying to chase that dot around. there's other issues but the parallax is the deal killer.

i guess this is what your saying.

yeah, not conducive to quick, follow up shots. glad i didn't send off the slide to be cut.

Quick follow up shots with a red dot depend a lot on a strong grip to return the gun to where it began. The dot should go straight up and come straight back down.

It also depends on the amount of recoil and the round your shooting.
my .45 cal Glock 41, the dot always leaves the window.
My Sig 320 9MM, i can mostly keep the dot in the widow on recoil.
With a 22lr pistol, the dot stays in the window no problem.

Trijicon RMRs are pretty much Parallax free.
If the dot is in the window, that's where the bullet goes.

 

[allen-1]

Quick follow up shots with a red dot depend a lot on a strong grip to return the gun to where it began. The dot should go straight up and come straight back down.

It also depends on the amount of recoil and the round your shooting.
my .45 cal Glock 41, the dot always leaves the window.
My Sig 320 9MM, i can mostly keep the dot in the widow on recoil.
With a 22lr pistol, the dot stays in the window no problem.

Trijicon RMRs are pretty much Parallax free.
If the dot is in the window, that's where the bullet goes.

I shot Florida State IDPA a couple of years ago, (2021). I picked a squad that had highly rated shooters in it, (Masters/Experts). I did that deliberately. I'm classed as MM/SS, (depending upon platform), and I wanted to watch and learn from people who are better than me.

Luigi Li was one of those shooters. Depending upon how much you participate in IDPA, or watch YouTubes of, you may have heard of him. He's a Master class shooter, and a really nice guy. We had opportunities to talk during the match, and he gave me advice on several of the stages. One of the things he said that really stuck with me was "It's really simple. Put the dot on the target, pull the trigger without moving the dot, then do it again. And do it all really fast".

Luigi won that match.

I saw him again at the Georgia State IDPA match in 2022. He won that match too.

 

[M1911]

Simple. Just not easy.

 

[MaybeMe]

If you like Vortex, you could get the Defender from them. I have one on my 43X and like it just as much if not more than my RMR on my CZ P10-F, plus I don’t feel bad at all abusing it with their warranty.

It uses the Shield Arms RMSc foot print though, which is what comes on the slimline MOS models.

You can always move it to another too.

 

[P51MA]

If you like Vortex, you could get the Defender from them. I have one on my 43X and like it just as much if not more than my RMR on my CZ P10-F, plus I don’t feel bad at all abusing it with their warranty.

It uses the Shield Arms RMSc foot print though, which is what comes on the slimline MOS models.

You can always move it to another too.

RMR has pretty much won the competition to be the dominant micro dot format (HD-DVD vs Blu-ray style, the market has spoken).

The other good option is Holosun SCS, which does not use plates, and is rather excellent. Better than anything trij makes . It has a small window though, more oriented towards concealed carry.

I think Swampfox and Vortex make good mid-range pistol dots, and should work well on a rifle too. Use cheap UTG riser mounts if needed.

Some of the really budget stuff might work OK on a long gun since there is no reciprocating slide, but they are known for having weird emitter issues and the glass falling out! You probably need to spend at least $180 to have decent quality.

 

[Cap'n Mike]

I shot Florida State IDPA a couple of years ago, (2021). I picked a squad that had highly rated shooters in it, (Masters/Experts). I did that deliberately. I'm classed as MM/SS, (depending upon platform), and I wanted to watch and learn from people who are better than me.

Luigi Li was one of those shooters. Depending upon how much you participate in IDPA, or watch YouTubes of, you may have heard of him. He's a Master class shooter, and a really nice guy. We had opportunities to talk during the match, and he gave me advice on several of the stages. One of the things he said that really stuck with me was "It's really simple. Put the dot on the target, pull the trigger without moving the dot, then do it again. And do it all really fast".

Luigi won that match.

I saw him again at the Georgia State IDPA match in 2022. He won that match too.

It is very simple
I had it told to me as "shoot fast and dont miss."
It could be Luigi is just naturally a good shot.
I have met a couple of people like that, with pretty much no effort they shoot better than most of us.
They are sometimes not the best teachers though because its so easy for them, they hardly realize what they are doing.
I have always had to practice a ton for any skill I have, and it seems to fade fast when I stop practicing's.

 

[E.Stoner]

My two cents.
If you want to shoot a red dot on a pistol don't cheap out on the optic. A slide mounted optics is subject to a huge amount of abuse and the cheapo depot elecro optics are going to take a dump sooner or later. Note high quality optics will also die, but you'll get 15-30K rounds out of them before they do.
If you are going to go through the cost/effort of buying a new slide, having one milled, or getting adapter plates spend a little more and get something decent. (Holosun makes great optics). If you are going to carry the gun then 100% get the best possible optic you can afford, use high quality fasteners and mount strictly to spec.
Milled vs mounting plate: makes no difference if you are using a quality plate, quality fasteners, and are mounting to spec. I've never had a plate or mount fail with high round counts.
Plates that mount in the dovetatils of irons slots are trash and should be disposed of with extreme prejudice.

 

[paul73]

ebay seems to feature a huge amount of freshly added rmr fakes.
gotta be careful, as it will probably spread over into returns and other sites.