Pool Pump info needed from the brain trust

[Echo 225]

Skip the long story. I want to keep the unground pool dated due to growing family(grand kids) . Im at the pump replacement part for more economical multi speed pump that was not available years back, any suggestions from the brain trust for a variable speed pump to replace a 1 HP Haywood super pump? I figured it would be simple, but go on line and try yourself and see why Im asking now. Any suggestions for a quality brands and pump .Any suggestions will be appreciated...OUT

 

[alx]

The three things you need to watch out for are:

the frame (number plus letter)- most common are 48Y, 56Y and 56J

hp rating (obvious)

inlet/ outlet diameters. Usually 1-3”

As long as those 3 things are the same it should be a direct replacement. Don’t fret if the replacement you want has the inlet and outlet rotated compared to yours- the head can be removed and rotated to match your existing setup as long as the inlet/ outlet diameters are identical of course.

Any 1hp pump (or any hp really) will use the same amount of electricity for the particular hp rating… there are really no more or less efficient ones. The technology has not changed in the last 100 years… The difference is that now you can get a two speed pump where the 1/2 speed is roughly 1/2 the consumed power. Some of them have a built in scheduler that will allow you to run them at high or low speed on a schedule at multiple times per day/ week day at particular speeds.

If you want to save some money and the head (the pumping part) is ok you can just get a replacement two speed motor with built in scheduler. Read the label on the old motor- it will tell you the frame type and size and hp rating so you can buy a replacement (motor or complete pump). eBay has some good deals. The profit margins are huge on those so don’t be afraid to lowball listings

 

[snax]

Ive got a 30000 gallon in ground with no bottom sucker.
3/4 hayward sand filter.
3/4 only good for running when clear.
Sucks for vacuuming. Sucks for opening it up.
The 1 HP died in the middle of the summer 5 years ago, it was unrebuildable, all they had was a 3/4.
In my opinion 3/4 is minimum.
Maybe run it less?
I run mine in the evening (when i clorinate) and when we swim.
Well go to the lake for 3 days and comevback, still clear, ill vac it and shock it, but dont run it any extra.
The pressure coming out of the jets is barely adequate.

 

[MAGA99]

Don’t waste your money. They do make pumps with built in drives that can ramp up the speed and run at not full speed….this doesnt save electricity!!!

Haywood makes good pumps. The pumps with drives are pricey and a drive that gets left outdoors doesn’t last long.

You have to use same hp, voltage, rpm, and frame as old. Need to be good mechanically to replace just the motor…..if the motor is worn out, way faster to replace the motor/pump combo….

The way to save money on pool pump is adjusting the run time. You need long run times when opening and after having a lot of people in it but during weekdays when it’s not heavy use, shorter run times can maintain good water quality.

I’m a fan of Intermatic T100-series mechanical timers, KISS, tried and true design. You can order multiple on/off trips for these timers, I like to have my filter run twice a day….and adjust total run time frequently.

 

[MAGA99]

Also, don’t forget when you upgrade your pool pump, you’ll have to provide ground fault protection for the new pump motor. Any qualified person that works on your pool pump motor is not going to do so unless they add ground fault protection. This can be a simple breaker upgrade in some cases or a whole system rewire in other cases.

 

[n1oty]

Stick to the Hayward Super Pumps and avoid the variable speed pumps, especially if you also run a pool heater and/or salt chlorine generator.