If you enjoy the forum please consider supporting it by signing up for a NES Membership The benefits pay for the membership many times over.
Be sure to enter the NES/MFS May Giveaway ***Canik METE SFX***
Hey guys, can you answer some noob questions for me please ? First, i have 3 TDRC's 30,40,50. I had 2 Compounds but had to sell them. I don't hunt yet because i know i'm not good enough and will not wound and lose. Like Sparkey and another member said, i use them to practice, stress relief, and muscle memory. My big question is this.... Why do crossbows have to be so powerful compared to RC's and Comp's ? From what i've read 45 - 60 and up for these are gtg for whites, but reading up on crossbows, at least compound ones, says that "starting" range for hunting is around 125 #'s and then up from there. Also, i'm not putting down crossbows because i will have to use one myself due to physical limitations. I know you can "pull" the lower strength ones and crank the uppers but i really can't see cranking a crossbow in the woods. I'm sorry for rambling but i'm try to get these questions / problems out there so i can make a plan to proceed this spring. Thank you guys.. Paul.
Hey guys, can you answer some noob questions for me please ? First, i have 3 TDRC's 30,40,50. I had 2 Compounds but had to sell them. I don't hunt yet because i know i'm not good enough and will not wound and lose. Like Sparkey and another member said, i use them to practice, stress relief, and muscle memory. My big question is this.... Why do crossbows have to be so powerful compared to RC's and Comp's ? From what i've read 45 - 60 and up for these are gtg for whites, but reading up on crossbows, at least compound ones, says that "starting" range for hunting is around 125 #'s and then up from there. Also, i'm not putting down crossbows because i will have to use one myself due to physical limitations. I know you can "pull" the lower strength ones and crank the uppers but i really can't see cranking a crossbow in the woods. I'm sorry for rambling but i'm try to get these questions / problems out there so i can make a plan to proceed this spring. Thank you guys.. Paul.
Picked up a 3 pk of Montec G5 100 gr for $15 from Amazon since I had some extra reward bucks. Those seem to get good reviews and I remember that some archery thread here recommended them. Not bad!
Ok. There’s a little confusion here. I can call G5 tomorrow to be sure but these 2 packs of Montec G5’s have different skus. Any of you guys still have the packaging and can confirm?
Package #1
View attachment 330647View attachment 330648
Package #2
View attachment 330649View attachment 330650
Great eye Bob. I can see that now.They have different shanks where they thread into the arrow.
The first package has a thinner shank for vertical bows.
The second package has a thicker shank as its listed for verts AND crossbows.
Crossbows use. a thicker arrow. You probably won’t notice a difference In flight.
Bob
Great eye Bob. I can see that now.
Lol. I’m not weak by any means but I do have to practice, practice, practice my draw. I set my bow to the max at 70 lbs and I was able to draw back 5 times. 6th time was whoa.....lol
I’m going to keep up with the field tips at this poundage so that those muscles that don’t get the flexing get to flexing more.
Sound advice. I have 400 gr arrows with a 29.5” draw length. It was set to 52lbs by the Cabela’s tech (great guy) and that was an easy enough draw.I use 70 lbs preseason but drop it down for hunting. My muscles do not like 70 lb after I've been sitting for hours in sub-freezing temps.
My chronograph arrived today, and I just ran some arrows through it. With a 69 lb draw weight, 28" draw, 447 grain arrow, it registered a consistent 283 ft/s. Plugging those numbers into a calculator tells me I could back that draw weight down quite a bit.
I use 70 lbs preseason but drop it down for hunting. My muscles do not like 70 lb after I've been sitting for hours in sub-freezing temps.
My chronograph arrived today, and I just ran some arrows through it. With a 69 lb draw weight, 28" draw, 447 grain arrow, it registered a consistent 283 ft/s. Plugging those numbers into a calculator tells me I could back that draw weight down quite a bit.
Set my old bow draw weight to match new bow @ 70 lbs. Bare shaft went 270 fps on old bow with Whisker Biscuit, while new bow pushed it to 287 fps with a fall-away rest. Justified? The new bow is dead still in hand and very quiet.
IF I buy what this guy is selling, I might gain a couple of yards advantage... Deer Reaction Time, Jumping the String - Iowa Outfitters/ Whitetail Habitat Consulting @ Full Potential Outdoors
What was your old bow ibo speed vs new? I’ve heard whisker biscuits might be a couple FPS slower if anything at all.
Yea that’s a significant jump in speed you could run it at that speed or load it up 50 or more grains to match your old bows speed. There’s nothing like a heavy ass arrow and a fixed headOld bow (Bear Truth 2) IBO speed is listed as 314 to 318, and the new (Mathews 28 VXR) is 344. The new bow also has some extra crap on the string (kisser, nock, monkey tails), while the old bow has only the peep w/tubing setup. I had no problem with the Biscuit but this new bow was already setup with the QAD rest.
Buying a press and everything I need to do it all in my basement was the best gear investment I’ve ever made, good choice. What was your old bow ibo speed vs new? I’ve heard whisker biscuits might be a couple FPS slower if anything at all. As far as deer jumping the string a lighter faster arrow is making your bow significantly louder, a heavy arrow is way quieter. If you shoot a 400 grain arrow then a 580 the heavier arrow reduces the noise of the bow going off significantly. 270-290 seems to be the sweet spot for tuning fixed blades I usually load up my arrows to fall within those speeds
If your really into it and messing with setups and changing bows, every other year a press and a draw board is a good idea.
If your the guy that just gets the bow setup once with the occasional tune up just to hunt. Having all that stuff is kinda overkill. Even building arrows can be unless you want to shoot special stuff.
I had all that stuff and sold it, except the fletching tools and supplies. I find most of these bows stay pretty in tune nowadays if you have a good guy do the setup. And I buy new bows pretty infrequently now. Every 4 years or so I trade the old one up for a year or two old leftover. Stiil get a decent trade and the leftover is usually a 1k dollar pro shop bow marked down 30-40 percent.
Picked up a 3 pk of Montec G5 100 gr for $15 from Amazon since I had some extra reward bucks. Those seem to get good reviews and I remember that some archery thread here recommended them. Not bad!
Yea you definitely have to be into it. I buy used bows fairly often keep the ones I like sell the ones I don’t. I usually just lose shipping costs. I bought a 10 month old prime centergy hybrid new was 1100 I got it for 450, the price of used bows are crazy low once the new models come out. I usually replace strings once a year and do string swaps and tuning for friends same with cutting arrows. Not a good investment for someone who’s not that into it
When you increase the peak weight, you may need a new arrow as the spine is set by draw weight. If you need a saddle or stand, I have either for sale real cheap. Saddle is new and only put in a tree in my yard to get a feel fir it.Took my bow to Cabelas today and got it tuned for free. The bow guy Jim was extremely helpful. He tuned it well and installed my peep sight. Now these were the first ever shots from a bow for me. After some minor adjustments I was in the bullseye at 13 yards 4 out of 5 shots.
I have a lot of practice to perform now. He set it for 52 lbs and 29” lop for me. I felt it was maybe a little short still but he observed me shoot about 20 arrows and helped me get good point contact hand/cheek/and nose. He said it looked good for lop and poundage. I feel to maybe add a bit more lbs when I practice more and my muscle memory kicks in.
Some observations:
My first shots on each grouping was very accurate. I was at ease. After that I pulled a few. I realize I need keep the cheek meld very consistent. Using the peep sight with the many points of contact is going to take some time getting used to. I am surprised by how complicated this is in regards to my former perception of archery. Put this all together and then sit in a saddle or stand being ultra quiet under pressure? Lol
Got myself 12 arrows with field tips, a field target, and a hook release. Here we go!