Hi All,
I thought I would share my recent upgrades to my Sig P226. I bought it new about a year ago as a stock MA model. A couple of weeks ago I had a chance to shoot a friend's P229 with the Grayguns P-Str8 adjustable trigger and the Sig SRT (Short Reset Trigger) sear. It felt like the Grayguns trigger made a huge difference in terms of pre-travel and smoothness of the DA pull. The Grayguns trigger is also adjustable for over-travel. That, combined with the short reset, means that the trigger barely moves at all to reset in SA.
I had noticed a lot of stacking in the stock DA trigger and the pull was extremely heavy. I don't have a trigger scale but it felt like 12+ lbs. So I decided to also install a reduced power mainspring from Wolff Gunsprings.
Installation of these parts is pretty straight forward, but it requires disassembly of most of the components in the frame. This is my first attempt doing any type of disassembly of a handgun outside of basic field stripping and cleaning. I won't go through the disassembly and install step by step as there are plenty of good youtube videos on disassembly and re-assembly of the Sig classic P-series guns.
Obligatory safety message: Ensure any firearm is unloaded and the chamber empty before field stripping or attempting any disassembly.
The three components purchased for this install:
Sig SRT trigger kit: https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...rt-reset-trigger-kit-sig-sauer-p226-p227-p229
Consists of new sear and safety lever.
Wolff Gunsprings Hammer Spring Pak: https://www.gunsprings.com/Semi-Auto Pistols/SIG-SAUER (SIGARMS)/P-226/cID1/mID4/dID254
Came with 3 reduced power springs: 19#, 18#, and 17#. Accidentally ordered the pack for older metal spring base Sigs, had to cancel and reorder the correct springs for the plastic spring base.
Grayguns P-Str8 Precision Adjustable Straight Trigger: https://grayguns.com/product/p-series-precision-adjustable-straight-trigger/
Adjustable for pre-travel and over-travel.
New parts:
Stock gun:
Disassembled:
Reassembled with new trigger:
It took me about an hour and a half to disassemble, clean, re-lube and reinstall everything with the new parts not including time spent screwing around with the new trigger adjustments and dry firing to get a feel for the new trigger.
For anyone thinking of doing this or a similar install, here are some tips that might be useful:
- I spent a lot of time getting the damn E2 grips off. I had taken the grips off several times before but I'm starting to hate them. I used the tool provided by Sig with the gun, but I find myself sticking wooden sticks broken off of cotton swabs to hold the grips away from the frame so I can slide them off. My next upgrade might be trying out some of the Hogue G-10 grips.
- DO NOT force anything! The parts in the frame should basically fall out of the gun once a few pins and springs are removed and they reinstall just as easy. If you have to force a part out or back in then something is out of place or not lined up correctly.
- Keep a thumb or your hand over any spring, but especially the hammer spring, as you remove it/reinstall it. At least in my basement, anything that flies across the room is probably not going to be found.
- When removing the trigger, the trigger bar will NOT want to clear the inside of the frame. As stated above, do not push, pull, force, or bend it. Just keep wiggling it and eventually you will find a position where it will slip free.
- The trigger pivot pin is not a screw. It does have a slot for a flathead screwdriver because it has to be oriented perfectly to reinstall the locking block. I was aware of this before I started, but I struggled getting the position just right so that the locking block will drop in. If it doesn't drop into place the pin is not position correctly.
- The SRT sear and safety lever reinstall is simple but tricky: It is easy to hold everything together with a punch through the sear pin holes. That is until you have to reinstall the sear spring. I found the best method was to use the punch on one side, and the wooden end of a cotton swab on the other. I could then push-pull with the punch and the swab to hold the parts in place while I installed the sear spring inside the sear.
- Cleaned and relubricated all parts with LucasOil Extreme Duty grease. Grease works great as "glue" to hold a part in place while reinstalling a pin, etc. For example, a dab of grease on the side of the locking block will hold the takedown spring in place so it's not in the way when you go to reinstall the locking block.
After install, the DA pull was significantly lighter. I have to get a trigger scale on it, but I would say its much closer to 10lbs. I'm not sure if it is from the re-lube, or the reduced power hammer spring (probably both), but there is now almost no detectable "stacking" in the DA pull. It still long and heavy, but now smooth all the through. I still have to work on the pre-travel adjustment, there's a couple mm of travel in the trigger before the hammer spring starts to compress, but I can adjust that out. Overall, it's now so much easier to hold the front sight on the target with no movement as you pull through the DA trigger. The SA pull stayed roughly the same, but now the reset occurs with almost no movement at all due to the new sear and trigger overtravel adjustment.
I haven't had a chance to shoot it yet but I'm going to try to get out to the range one night this week. Does anyone else have any experience with the Grayguns straight trigger? Pros? Cons? Let me know what you think.
I thought I would share my recent upgrades to my Sig P226. I bought it new about a year ago as a stock MA model. A couple of weeks ago I had a chance to shoot a friend's P229 with the Grayguns P-Str8 adjustable trigger and the Sig SRT (Short Reset Trigger) sear. It felt like the Grayguns trigger made a huge difference in terms of pre-travel and smoothness of the DA pull. The Grayguns trigger is also adjustable for over-travel. That, combined with the short reset, means that the trigger barely moves at all to reset in SA.
I had noticed a lot of stacking in the stock DA trigger and the pull was extremely heavy. I don't have a trigger scale but it felt like 12+ lbs. So I decided to also install a reduced power mainspring from Wolff Gunsprings.
Installation of these parts is pretty straight forward, but it requires disassembly of most of the components in the frame. This is my first attempt doing any type of disassembly of a handgun outside of basic field stripping and cleaning. I won't go through the disassembly and install step by step as there are plenty of good youtube videos on disassembly and re-assembly of the Sig classic P-series guns.
Obligatory safety message: Ensure any firearm is unloaded and the chamber empty before field stripping or attempting any disassembly.
The three components purchased for this install:
Sig SRT trigger kit: https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...rt-reset-trigger-kit-sig-sauer-p226-p227-p229
Consists of new sear and safety lever.
Wolff Gunsprings Hammer Spring Pak: https://www.gunsprings.com/Semi-Auto Pistols/SIG-SAUER (SIGARMS)/P-226/cID1/mID4/dID254
Came with 3 reduced power springs: 19#, 18#, and 17#. Accidentally ordered the pack for older metal spring base Sigs, had to cancel and reorder the correct springs for the plastic spring base.
Grayguns P-Str8 Precision Adjustable Straight Trigger: https://grayguns.com/product/p-series-precision-adjustable-straight-trigger/
Adjustable for pre-travel and over-travel.
New parts:
Stock gun:
Disassembled:
Reassembled with new trigger:
It took me about an hour and a half to disassemble, clean, re-lube and reinstall everything with the new parts not including time spent screwing around with the new trigger adjustments and dry firing to get a feel for the new trigger.
For anyone thinking of doing this or a similar install, here are some tips that might be useful:
- I spent a lot of time getting the damn E2 grips off. I had taken the grips off several times before but I'm starting to hate them. I used the tool provided by Sig with the gun, but I find myself sticking wooden sticks broken off of cotton swabs to hold the grips away from the frame so I can slide them off. My next upgrade might be trying out some of the Hogue G-10 grips.
- DO NOT force anything! The parts in the frame should basically fall out of the gun once a few pins and springs are removed and they reinstall just as easy. If you have to force a part out or back in then something is out of place or not lined up correctly.
- Keep a thumb or your hand over any spring, but especially the hammer spring, as you remove it/reinstall it. At least in my basement, anything that flies across the room is probably not going to be found.
- When removing the trigger, the trigger bar will NOT want to clear the inside of the frame. As stated above, do not push, pull, force, or bend it. Just keep wiggling it and eventually you will find a position where it will slip free.
- The trigger pivot pin is not a screw. It does have a slot for a flathead screwdriver because it has to be oriented perfectly to reinstall the locking block. I was aware of this before I started, but I struggled getting the position just right so that the locking block will drop in. If it doesn't drop into place the pin is not position correctly.
- The SRT sear and safety lever reinstall is simple but tricky: It is easy to hold everything together with a punch through the sear pin holes. That is until you have to reinstall the sear spring. I found the best method was to use the punch on one side, and the wooden end of a cotton swab on the other. I could then push-pull with the punch and the swab to hold the parts in place while I installed the sear spring inside the sear.
- Cleaned and relubricated all parts with LucasOil Extreme Duty grease. Grease works great as "glue" to hold a part in place while reinstalling a pin, etc. For example, a dab of grease on the side of the locking block will hold the takedown spring in place so it's not in the way when you go to reinstall the locking block.
After install, the DA pull was significantly lighter. I have to get a trigger scale on it, but I would say its much closer to 10lbs. I'm not sure if it is from the re-lube, or the reduced power hammer spring (probably both), but there is now almost no detectable "stacking" in the DA pull. It still long and heavy, but now smooth all the through. I still have to work on the pre-travel adjustment, there's a couple mm of travel in the trigger before the hammer spring starts to compress, but I can adjust that out. Overall, it's now so much easier to hold the front sight on the target with no movement as you pull through the DA trigger. The SA pull stayed roughly the same, but now the reset occurs with almost no movement at all due to the new sear and trigger overtravel adjustment.
I haven't had a chance to shoot it yet but I'm going to try to get out to the range one night this week. Does anyone else have any experience with the Grayguns straight trigger? Pros? Cons? Let me know what you think.