my venture into the CMP and m1 garands!

[mac1911]

Whats some good inexpensive options for a slings?
I had grabbed a usgi one from Numrich but the hardware is all rusty.

The Danish ones are very good.

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/ad/1141000.htm#1141010

I,buy an extra sling hook and install it on the sling. It's easier to take off vs threading sling through swivel. Also comes in handy at matches. Just unhook from rifle vs trying to undo the sling from around your arm.

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Products/408900.htm

CMP has reproductions
http://estore.thecmp.org/Store/cata...=&note1=&note2=&note3=&note4=&note5=&max=500#

 

[majspud]

LTC has originals.

https://www.libertytreecollectors.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=3352&idcategory=6

T

 

[mclina]

Since I am spending the Garand money that I didn't have on a college road trip with my daughter next week, I feel kind of foolish that this just arrived with the UPS man.

I don't know anything about the ammo, other than it was listed with this description:

We have received military 30.06 ammo from overseas! This ammo is packed in .30 caliber cans loose at the arsenal and approximately 270 rounds per can (give or take a few rounds) packed by volume and weight. Nice, clean military ammo! Full metal jacket m2 ball, brass case and 150 grain.

And it was the lowest price per round that I was able to find. The headstamp has a 5 a T and a W



The clips are new production off ebay

 

[OldNorth]

I think that is 1955 Twin Cities Arsenal USGI ammo. Should be good ammo and non corrosive.

 

[mac1911]

Since I am spending the Garand money that I didn't have on a college road trip with my daughter next week, I feel kind of foolish that this just arrived with the UPS man.

I don't know anything about the ammo, other than it was listed with this description:



And it was the lowest price per round that I was able to find. The headstamp has a 5 a T and a W



The clips are new production off ebay

Don't feel foolish toss it in your closet and when the hxp runs dry you can triple your money.
Also if it is usgi ammo from Korea that's pretty cool. Ammo box is Korean I think.

 

[dhuze]

TW 5 is Twin Cities 1955. It was common to just grind off a number from the the headstamp tool to save money. They would have taken a 1945 stamp and removed the 4.
I'm kind of surprised it isn't Korean ammo due to the can. Korean 30-06 was headstamped KA which was corrosive and PS which was not, but was known to have some bad lots.

 

[mclina]

I took a closer look. The first two TC rounds were a fluke. The can is mostly Korean. It turned out to be 240 rounds of Korean, 20 rounds of Lake City and 10 rounds of TC. There was only one round that looked real crusty where the bullet meets the casing.

I just didn't want somebody to order this stuff thinking it was all USGI ammo.

 

[jpm]

are the Korean KA or PS headstamps and more importantly what year if they are KA?

 

[mclina]

They are all KA. Not sure of the dates, I'll have to take a look tomorrow with my reading glasses.

 

[dhuze]

KA is corrosive. Clean accordingly. I shoot KA in my 1903 and 03A3 because bolt guns are easier to clean. By the way Hoppes cleans corrosive ammo just fine. So does hot water.

 

[mac1911]

There used to be a few older guys at my club that like KA ammo said it's some of the most accurate surplus ammo for M1s. ? I use accurate loosely since standards for M2 are not exactly high.
I shot 800 rnds mixed Korean ammo back in 2005 I think I paid 27 cents per rounds.?
I,did not know much about it being corrosive. I did not clean that rifle until the yearly cleaning. I found no heavy corrosion anywhere? I would not chance it though personally I would shoot it just before you plan on doing a detail clean of the rifle.

 

[jpm]

SOME KA is corrosive, some is ok. Depends on the date.

OLD formula hoppes #9 cleaned corrosive but I have heard the current stuff does not. Use m-pro 7 pump spray cleaner or Krud Kutter or hot soapy water if you prefer.

 

[Gator9329]

Windex is cheap, easy, and effective. Something about ammonia and water washing away the corrosive salts. finish with hoppes or some kind of oil after to protect the cleaned parts.
I was taught to clean my M1 upside down to keep the Crud from running into the gas port. Not sure if that's effective but it's worked for me with the corrosive stuff.

 

[mclina]

I am a notary public away from having my stack of paper in the mail. I hope to run across one tomorrow.

 

[mac1911]

I am a notary public away from having my stack of paper in the mail. I hope to run across one tomorrow.

Any bank, ups store, or even some local cpa?

 

[DW357]

I am a notary public away from having my stack of paper in the mail. I hope to run across one tomorrow.

If you lived near me, I could have my fiancé can notarize it for ya.

 

[jpm]

Windex is cheap, easy, and effective. Something about ammonia and water washing away the corrosive salts. finish with hoppes or some kind of oil after to protect the cleaned parts.
I was taught to clean my M1 upside down to keep the Crud from running into the gas port. Not sure if that's effective but it's worked for me with the corrosive stuff.

ammonia does nothing, its the water which is what windex is mostly made up of which dissolves the salts and washes them out. Ammonia is supposed to be a copper solvent but I can't believe the small concentration in windex does anything at all to dissolve copper. Hot water would be just as effective.

 

[mac1911]

ammonia does nothing, its the water which is what windex is mostly made up of which dissolves the salts and washes them out. Ammonia is supposed to be a copper solvent but I can't believe the small concentration in windex does anything at all to dissolve copper. Hot water would be just as effective.

Ammonia is supposed to neutralize the acid along with helping break the surface tension. Is there sufficient amonnia in Windex to work? You could also use some water with backing soda mixed in.
My dad's favorite recipe for corrosive cleaning ( black powder rifles) was dawn dish soap and warm water, again the soap was to reduce surface tension so the water would absorb into the soot and such.

 

[majspud]

I've only used Windex soaked patches for my corrosive 8mm; has worked fine for me.

T

 

[mclina]

Any bank, ups store, or even some local cpa?

Yeah, the notary at my local UPS store was out yesterday. I'll get it done tomorrow.

 

[Mike 53]

Sent my paperwork in last Thursday, and due (I guess!) to the weather, it will be delivered tomorrow...had sent Priority Mail 2-day...
Can't wait!
-Mike

 

[jpm]

Ammonia is supposed to neutralize the acid along with helping break the surface tension. Is there sufficient amonnia in Windex to work? You could also use some water with backing soda mixed in.
My dad's favorite recipe for corrosive cleaning ( black powder rifles) was dawn dish soap and warm water, again the soap was to reduce surface tension so the water would absorb into the soot and such.

There is no acid to neutralize. Its a salt that is left behind by the corrosive primer and nothing neutralizes salts, you can only dissolve them and wash them away. It causes corrosion because the salt attracts and holds moisture which will then cause rust on metal.

The soap acts as a surfactant, which literally gets under dirt and oils and other debris on the surface of something, and the water then is able to wash it away. That's why soap feels slippery.

 

[mac1911]

There is no acid to neutralize. Its a salt that is left behind by the corrosive primer and nothing neutralizes salts, you can only dissolve them and wash them away. It causes corrosion because the salt attracts and holds moisture which will then cause rust on metal.

The soap acts as a surfactant, which literally gets under dirt and oils and other debris on the surface of something, and the water then is able to wash it away. That's why soap feels slippery.

Correct the sodium chloride absorbs the moisture then plays with the hydrogen and oxygen speeding up electrolysis....then begins the rust. Soap, surfactants act to break the surface tension.