Moopey's LR-308 Build Thread

As a matter of fact I do have a set of headspace gauges. They came in the mail yesterday. I smell a build party brewing. Haha.
 
you asked for pics..........ask and ye shall receive!

I gathered my new parts:
ALG Trigger
Phase 5 308 Bolt Catch
Battle Arms ambidextrous selector
Heavy buffer, spring, and tube
All other lower parts are from a DPMS parts kit.

This was my first time assembling a lower, I cheated and watched a youtube video. haha. It wasn't very difficult. I think it was a little easier since there are no roll pins on this lower.

I dropped the BCG and charging handle in and tested the Phase 5 bolt catch. I'm VERY disappointed in this part. It works, but it feels very flimsy. It seems a tad bit touchy. I'm curious to see how it reacts/works while at the range. Also it doesn't line up all that great with the upper. Not happy considering how much money the thing cost. It'll work for now as I figure out my options.

Also slapped a magazine in there to test the mag release. That worked also.

Anyways. Enjoy the pics.

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What makes you say the bolt catch feels flimsy? (I was thinking about getting one)

As for the alignment, QD starting milling the upper out larger for other bolt release levers. I wonder if the Magpul or Troy one fits.
 
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What makes you say the bolt catch feels flimsy? (I was thinking about getting one)

As for the alignment, QD starting milling the upper out larger for other bolt release levers. I wonder if the Magpul or Troy one fits.

It kind of wiggles. Not a ton, but more that I thought it would. Although I didn't play with it much, it seemed that the slighted touch would release the bolt. But again, this was an incomplete rifle I was messing with. I think only range time will allow me to get a true feel for it.
 
It kind of wiggles. Not a ton, but more that I thought it would. Although I didn't play with it much, it seemed that the slighted touch would release the bolt. But again, this was an incomplete rifle I was messing with. I think only range time will allow me to get a true feel for it.

I don't think wiggling is uncommon. My Magpul BAD on my AR wiggles a little.
 
I don't think wiggling is uncommon. My Magpul BAD on my AR wiggles a little.

That's good to know.

On another note. I ordered the last couple parts I should need to complete this build.....hand guard and muzzle break should be here in 2-5 days.

Can anyone recommend a place that can pin/weld the muzzle break? I'm in the taunton area but willing travel a bit to a good shop.
 
That's good to know.

On another note. I ordered the last couple parts I should need to complete this build.....hand guard and muzzle break should be here in 2-5 days.

Can anyone recommend a place that can pin/weld the muzzle break? I'm in the taunton area but willing travel a bit to a good shop.

1776 gunsmithing @ Walpole. Good guys.

Sent from my Tinfoil hat
 
You're in Taunton??? I use a guy right in Taunton, probably in your back yard. I have used him for 2 AR's so far for different things, and his work is top notch.

He was recommended to me by Greg Derr. That says enough right there.

PM me if you want his information.
 
Hand guard and muzzle break should be here by tuesday. I also realized that I didn't have a vice...So I hit up a local harbor freight yesterday and picked up a 4" vise, got home and remembered I don't have a bunch to mount it in. haha. I took some time out of the day to build a decent work bench and mounted the vise on it. Now I have a decent space to work in my rifles and pistols and potentially use for reloading.
 
You're in Taunton??? I use a guy right in Taunton, probably in your back yard. I have used him for 2 AR's so far for different things, and his work is top notch.

He was recommended to me by Greg Derr. That says enough right there.

PM me if you want his information.

I'm going to +1 the recommendation of nottom. The gunsmith pinned my PSA upper and touched up the paint of the bayonet lug after I lopped off the ears.
 
Update:

I received my troy rail today so I installed the barrel, gas block and gas tube and finished off with the rail. I then proceeded to check the head spacing with a set of Forster GO/NO Go gauges. I followed the instructions and removed the extractor and re-assembled the BCG. I did not remove the ejector or ejector spring.

With the upper off of the lower I closed the BCG without a gauge, closes completely. Then I placed the GO gauge in and the BCG will not close. As I push it closed I can feel the tension from the ejector. I get the same result from the NO GO gauge.

Should I be removing anything else from the BCG? There's a pretty decent gap with either gauge.

So far it's been a night of disappointments between these headspace issues and the Troy rail not lining up with the QD lower.....awesome.

I can take pics of the BCG gap tonight, but I won't be able to get good pics of the rifle or rail alignment till tomorrow.

Any info on the headspace would greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
With my Forster gauges on my 5.56, you do NOT need to take apart the BCG.

You do need to press on the forward assist slightly to get the BCG to slide into battery.

Don't slam it, just press the forward assist. It should slide in properly on the go gauge, and not slide in on the no go gauge.

If you don't have a forward assist, assemble the upper & lower, and release the BCG with the charging handle...SLOWLY! Don't press the bolt release, you'll mess something up.
 
Is the rail not lining up height wise?

Yup. I followed Troy's instructions and measured the thickness of the rail. It was 3/16" so I ordered the high profile Troy rail. The rail sits higher than the upper. I can get over the slight height difference, it's not BAD enough to trying to return the rail and order another, just to find out that the new one might not line up either. I just hope the difference doesn't mess up the sights I may put on it.

Here's a pic of the gap in chamber with GO gauge installed. You can kind of see the rail difference although there is a shadow....
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As long as you are using good parts, usually headspace is not an issue. It takes 10 seconds to check with the Forster gauges, and it is worth the piece of mind.

You have a slickside upper from what it looks like, so you'll need to do it with the gun assembled.
 
You could even push on the back of the BCG with the upper off the lower. Just push with enough force, and it should pop right in. Then do the same with the no go, and it should not pop in.
 
I's pushin boss.....ain't going in.

I put the extractor back in, no difference. Big ol gap. What would cause this? Bad barrel or bad BCG?
 
You could even push on the back of the BCG with the upper off the lower. Just push with enough force, and it should pop right in. Then do the same with the no go, and it should not pop in.

here's the back of the BCG with the upper off, GO gauge in chamber.

the BCG "pops" into place without any gauges if that means anything..

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Maybe someone with .308 expertise could chime in?

All I have is 5.56 AR's, and for those the BCG pops right into place without much force for the go gauge, and obviously does not pop in for the no go gauge.

You're obviously using the right gauges?? What kind of barrel are you using??
 
I have the same bcg but different barrel,i'll hsve to order some gauges and check mine. The back of your upper looks thinner than mine but maybe its just the pic.

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Sent from my rotary phone
 
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