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Maine Cabin / Modular Home
- Thread starter SpiderMA
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JayMcB
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if you're going to build, spend the $ on a metal roof.
if you're going to heat it, get spray foam insulation
before we bought our place in NH, we were looking at the Chalet-type modular design, because we liked the open floor plan.
a colleague at work has a log cabin home he bought that was 15 years old, he loathes the 'log upkeep', and wishes he had purchased a traditionally built home instead.
we opted for metal roof, vinyl siding, full coverage soffet, aluminum wrapped rake boards, PVC trim, etc. I have NO desire to paint, and the lower the maintenance, the better.
Buy a 4wd tractor with a backhoe attachment, a bucket/forks up front, and a set of chains.
It will pay for itself on road (driveway) maintenance alone.
if you're going to heat it, get spray foam insulation
before we bought our place in NH, we were looking at the Chalet-type modular design, because we liked the open floor plan.
a colleague at work has a log cabin home he bought that was 15 years old, he loathes the 'log upkeep', and wishes he had purchased a traditionally built home instead.
we opted for metal roof, vinyl siding, full coverage soffet, aluminum wrapped rake boards, PVC trim, etc. I have NO desire to paint, and the lower the maintenance, the better.
Buy a 4wd tractor with a backhoe attachment, a bucket/forks up front, and a set of chains.
It will pay for itself on road (driveway) maintenance alone.
Specifically, I would look at the Bobcat "Toolcat", prices on used ones in Maine can be reasonable, and you can add attachments to do just about anything.
Another option is to install a propane-fired "gravity wall furnace" with millivolt thermostat, this will keep the pipes from freezing even if power goes out, so long as there is propane and the pilot light stays lit.
When you buy your propane tank, make sure you get a Remote Ready Dial (aka R3D®), and size the tank and hookups big enough for a propane generator.
KBCraig
NES Member
Here is a cabin with a steep steel roof so snow will slide off.
And snow guards, so it won't.
Snow sheds off a pitched metal roof like a mofo, so you don't want anything in the way when it turns loose. In this case, there's no reason to have snow guards, because there's nothing to damage when it hits the ground.
I can't tell from the picture, those might be snow breakers rather than snow guards?And snow guards, so it won't.
Snow sheds off a pitched metal roof like a mofo, so you don't want anything in the way when it turns loose. In this case, there's no reason to have snow guards, because there's nothing to damage when it hits the ground.
And here's what happens when you don't have snow breakers:
$170/sq.ft for a log kit, compared to national average new construction cost of $125-$150?
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JayMcB
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I can't tell from the picture, those might be snow breakers rather than snow guards?
And here's what happens when you don't have snow breakers:
$170/sq.ft for a log kit, compared to national average new construction cost of $125-$150?
We have snowverhang like that on our metal roof. Up north, gutters just get torn off on stuff like that. If a log cabin is $170 a foot, I would get something stick built, with 2x6 walls and spray foam and a steel roof, becuase the cost will be on parity or lower, and it will be much easier to heat and maintain.
I agree, log home kits may be reasonable but it is 4-5 times the labor of building one stick built. Not to mention you only get 1R per inch of wood for insulation. They do look nice but I would hate to have to heat one.
I went to the links, but did not see what you were talking about. HOWEVER, I did see this: Major Surgery for a Failing Fat Wall | JLC Online | Moisture Barriers, Building Envelope, Building Science, Building Resources, Vermont
I'd hate to have them in my house with that "blower door". I need 29 replacement windows, my attic leaks, my foundation leaks, no insulation, moisture, vinyl siding, etc. etc.
Tell them they can set up camp, but need to break it down again when done. Don't let them keep camping in the exact same spot.
If recently purchased, this should have happened BEFORE closing!
In that case, put a sign that if it is not removed within the month, you will remove it. End of story.
Sounds good, including the metal roof. What's water source, or do you bring it in? For that matter, you could run a small electric fridge off the generator, or an icebox.
Agreed. See my note above.
Here is a cabin with a steep steel roof so snow will slide off.
Looks nice. Prebuilt? I wonder how pre-built compares with building yourself, both in price and quality.
See directly above.
^^^this
^^^and this...i had a ~2,000 sf colonial modular built in 09...typically they are built in areas where there is cheaper labor (many are done in PA)...think about every little detail before you have it built cause they can change anything you want...i took one of their basic floor plans and redesigned it to my liking...the wiring is weird due to them having to ship it and make it easy to put together...my house is 2 floors the top floor wiring goes up into the attic and to one side where there is a conduit in the wall where it all goes down...the bottom floor wiring goes up as well, into the space between the top and bottom floor and over to the same location to go down conduit in the same area...i would make sure you have the builder take care of the foundation as well so there is no finger pointing in case the house doesn't fit right on the foundation...put in a perimeter drain if you think you will need it and tie in the drain leaders if you are going to have gutters...like other have said install the electrical service conduit yourself if feasible and if the terrain permits...def put a metal roof on whatever you build and vinyl siding for low maintenance
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Dig into the site a little.
http://www.jlconline.com/how-to/foundations/insulated-foundation-systems
There's a number of articles there about using the ICF's.
I understand the attraction to log cabins, but would not want to own one.
I couldn't see owning a log cabin as my primary residence. It's cool, retro, and romantic, but not practical.
If I were building new (and had a $500K construction budget) I'd go with ICF with at least 8 inches of concrete in the foundation and first floor, passive solar, ground source heat pump, and a massive central masonry fireplace for supplemental heat.
I couldn't see owning a log cabin as my primary residence. It's cool, retro, and romantic, but not practical.
It does appear ICF is the way to go; a bit more expensive and kind of ugly, but goes up fast and makes for a tight house with great R-value. See: Living in a concrete bunker
If I were building new (and had a $500K construction budget) I'd go with ICF with at least 8 inches of concrete in the foundation and first floor, passive solar, ground source heat pump, and a massive central masonry fireplace for supplemental heat.
Asaltweapon
NES Member
You haven't spent money on preventive maintenance and upkeep until you own a log cabin.
I'm also not 100% sold on ICF yet. The houses are just too tight to the point they require air to air heat exchangers for healthy air. The cheap way out is running the bathroom fans a minimum of 8 hours per day.
My cabin is up in the Lincoln Me area. I stick built a 24x28 using 2x6 studs and 4x8 spruce for expose rafters for the cathedral ceiling. It has a 10 pitch metal roof which gives it a large loft area. I installed white cedar log siding. It also has a bedroom, bath and the kitchen dining and living room. I heat with a wood stove and also have a Rinnai Propane heater which is nice to use on cool fall mornings instead of lighting the stove. I use this cabin till the end of hunting season with out any heating problems. I drain all water and blow the lines. No broken pipes in 20 years. Hope this helps you and good luck with your cabin.
KBCraig
NES Member
Not to mention, they're not really log homes. They're milled lumber homes, only the lumber is milled into something resembling a landscape timber.
Most aren't even that: they're just "log" siding tacked onto the outside of a stick built structure.
I'm thinking of doing something cheap for a cabin... start with a new tool shed that looks reasonable, then put in insulation, knotty pine siding and other stuff myself at my leisure. For example, a new dealer for this is over in Keene:
https://oldhickorybuildings.com/products/side-porch-package-ohb/
That's a 10x20 with 4x6 porch, a loft on each end (only really suitable for storage since you can't stand up in it), real windows and door (not the typical Home Depot "door" which is plywood with hinges and a latch), metal roof. Total price $4800. They say I can make any design change imaginable, so I maybe loft height could be increased or something.
They'll put it on blocks on the ground to level it out, although I'm thinking I need it elevated enough that I can get under it to reach pipes. So, place on posts of some kind? (I've never poured sono tubes so not entirely sure what's best.) They won't do that kind of work, so I'd need to hire someone else to do it (ground is too rocky so it'll require equipment to dig out the post holes.) But, hopefully they can place a pre-built onto the posts... they have it on a flat-bed truck, and tilt it so it slides back off but normally onto the ground. (I was watching them load up a truck yesterday with a new building to be delivered.) So, I'm not entirely sure how they'd get it back up onto 3 foot high posts.
https://oldhickorybuildings.com/products/side-porch-package-ohb/
That's a 10x20 with 4x6 porch, a loft on each end (only really suitable for storage since you can't stand up in it), real windows and door (not the typical Home Depot "door" which is plywood with hinges and a latch), metal roof. Total price $4800. They say I can make any design change imaginable, so I maybe loft height could be increased or something.
They'll put it on blocks on the ground to level it out, although I'm thinking I need it elevated enough that I can get under it to reach pipes. So, place on posts of some kind? (I've never poured sono tubes so not entirely sure what's best.) They won't do that kind of work, so I'd need to hire someone else to do it (ground is too rocky so it'll require equipment to dig out the post holes.) But, hopefully they can place a pre-built onto the posts... they have it on a flat-bed truck, and tilt it so it slides back off but normally onto the ground. (I was watching them load up a truck yesterday with a new building to be delivered.) So, I'm not entirely sure how they'd get it back up onto 3 foot high posts.
Propane vs. oil. Years ago I was faced with this decision in NH. My plumber said I'd get more BTUs from oil, and save in the long run. I have. Since your tank will be outside, no basement, you'll pay a few pennies more for conditioned oil that won't gel in the winter.
namedpipes
NES Member
Do you have any dam pictures? (I always wanted to say that - and now back to the regularly scheduled program)
For *me* this approach would work best. Stick build a small, off grid cabin. Next year add a bunker for safe storage of valuables when I'm not there (a *real* issue with rural homes in Maine not occupied year round). The following year add electric service, then winter resistant plumbing, etc. Then add rooms as needed.
Everyone's needs will be different of course...
All of the log cabin "kit" homes I have seen use actual logs, which is the root cause of most of the drawbacks.
If I were going to build with "fake" logs, I would just go with concrete, e.g. EverLog.
You definitely want somebody who has done this before to plan out and install your sonotubes, then attach PT 4x4 runners on top so the dealer can slide the pre-built shed on. It's not an uncommon way to place a shed on soft ground, see https://www.shedsusa.com/files/2113/3950/3061/Sonotubes-for-PreFab-Sheds-HD_011712.pdf
Propane vs oil is a tough decision. IMHO, oil really only has two advantages -- Oil is cheaper (Lower $/BTU, for now), and you can easily bring in diesel fuel to top off your tank if you run low. For a building that you are not planning to heat all winter long, I would go with propane. Less storage/leakage/theft concerns, more appliances available, lower maintenance, etc.
For a building you are planning to heat all winter long, I would install a wood stove and/or a pellet stove and use delivered fuel just as a backup.
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This is exactly what i have been thinking of doing. Seems like a great way to get started for a cabin. It would be easy to insulate and finish the interior. The metal roof is definitely a plus.
Asaltweapon
NES Member
Regarding the LP versus oil...
I have a few friends with cabins without utilities available to them. Sure they have a portable genny for power tools and the blow dryer for the girls if they really insist but the camps have gravity water systems, LP lamps, cooking and fridge. Solar LED lighting works rather well. One just built a larger shed and they will be installing a solar panel on the roof. It is so nice and peaceful out there.
I have a few friends with cabins without utilities available to them. Sure they have a portable genny for power tools and the blow dryer for the girls if they really insist but the camps have gravity water systems, LP lamps, cooking and fridge. Solar LED lighting works rather well. One just built a larger shed and they will be installing a solar panel on the roof. It is so nice and peaceful out there.
Bump,
Just starting this up again as I want to purchase/install a modular home in the spring. My wife talked me in to putting an addition on our primary home prior to building up in Maine. In the past year I helped my business partner install a 1,200 sft log home on the property. Its very nice, but definitely not what I want. I do now have a place to stay while I work up there which is nice. I am looking at a 1,250sft, 3 bed, 2 bath ranch with covered front and rear porches. Walkout basement with (2) car garage under one side (for toys). I received a turn key quote of $153k back in 2016. I just reached out to a few firms to dust off old quotes. I intend to tour a couple local ones in Maine and make my final decision fairly soon.
I ended up taking some advice and purchased a JBC 214 4x4 backhoe. Used it to clear miles of trails and start building a 200yd range on the property with a natural backstop (65ft hill). Soils in this area is loose sand, easy digging and septic. I intend to do all the site work myself now, including the septic. The price for the conventional foundation seemed reasonable, I am leaning away from ICF due to costs. I personally have waited for this longer than I wanted to and want to get going ASAP. I learned alot doing the cabin so that should help. Made some friends with neighbors so I feel more comfortable. Chased a few people off the property as well. Some were colorful to say the least. We have camera's everywhere. Some remote Spartan Gocams as well as more formal systems.
I ended up putting mini-splits in my addition at home and love them. When it was below zero recently they were still blowing hot air. It was pretty cool. I am still thinking of a propane heater/stove as a backup heat in the basement. We are close (1/2 mile) to a major route but still seem to loose power often. We installed mini-split in cabin as well, when it was -25 a week ago they stopped working. We have a remote monitor but did not catch in time. Nothing burst but by the time someone got there the toilet was solid!!!. I want to make sure I account for that possible event in my plans up front. Thinking of insulating the basement exterior walls well but not the ceiling. Placing the propane stove/heater down there set to say 50 degrees, if the mini's stop working I would think the basement system would kick in and keep the place from freezing.
Just starting this up again as I want to purchase/install a modular home in the spring. My wife talked
me in to putting an addition on our primary home prior to building up in Maine. In the past year I helped my business partner install a 1,200 sft log home on the property. Its very nice, but definitely not what I want. I do now have a place to stay while I work up there which is nice. I am looking at a 1,250sft, 3 bed, 2 bath ranch with covered front and rear porches. Walkout basement with (2) car garage under one side (for toys). I received a turn key quote of $153k back in 2016. I just reached out to a few firms to dust off old quotes. I intend to tour a couple local ones in Maine and make my final decision fairly soon.I ended up taking some advice and purchased a JBC 214 4x4 backhoe. Used it to clear miles of trails and start building a 200yd range on the property with a natural backstop (65ft hill). Soils in this area is loose sand, easy digging and septic. I intend to do all the site work myself now, including the septic. The price for the conventional foundation seemed reasonable, I am leaning away from ICF due to costs. I personally have waited for this longer than I wanted to and want to get going ASAP. I learned alot doing the cabin so that should help. Made some friends with neighbors so I feel more comfortable. Chased a few people off the property as well. Some were colorful to say the least. We have camera's everywhere. Some remote Spartan Gocams as well as more formal systems.
I ended up putting mini-splits in my addition at home and love them. When it was below zero recently they were still blowing hot air. It was pretty cool. I am still thinking of a propane heater/stove as a backup heat in the basement. We are close (1/2 mile) to a major route but still seem to loose power often. We installed mini-split in cabin as well, when it was -25 a week ago they stopped working. We have a remote monitor but did not catch in time. Nothing burst but by the time someone got there the toilet was solid!!!. I want to make sure I account for that possible event in my plans up front. Thinking of insulating the basement exterior walls well but not the ceiling. Placing the propane stove/heater down there set to say 50 degrees, if the mini's stop working I would think the basement system would kick in and keep the place from freezing.
Bump,
Just starting this up again as I want to purchase/install a modular home in the spring. My wife talked
I ended up taking some advice and purchased a JBC 214 4x4 backhoe. Used it to clear miles of trails and start building a 200yd range on the property with a natural backstop (65ft hill). Soils in this area is loose sand, easy digging and septic. I intend to do all the site work myself now, including the septic. The price for the conventional foundation seemed reasonable, I am leaning away from ICF due to costs. I personally have waited for this longer than I wanted to and want to get going ASAP. I learned alot doing the cabin so that should help. Made some friends with neighbors so I feel more comfortable. Chased a few people off the property as well. Some were colorful to say the least. We have camera's everywhere. Some remote Spartan Gocams as well as more formal systems.
I ended up putting mini-splits in my addition at home and love them. When it was below zero recently they were still blowing hot air. It was pretty cool. I am still thinking of a propane heater/stove as a backup heat in the basement. We are close (1/2 mile) to a major route but still seem to loose power often. We installed mini-split in cabin as well, when it was -25 a week ago they stopped working. We have a remote monitor but did not catch in time. Nothing burst but by the time someone got there the toilet was solid!!!. I want to make sure I account for that possible event in my plans up front. Thinking of insulating the basement exterior walls well but not the ceiling. Placing the propane stove/heater down there set to say 50 degrees, if the mini's stop working I would think the basement system would kick in and keep the place from freezing.
Before you completely move away from the ICF solution for your foundation - check out this Youtube channel:
Pure Living for Life
They're building their own home out in Idaho - and did their own foundation using ICF's. If you go back to mid-August or so they have a bunch of videos on the work they did to build the foundation using ICF's. Might help you get a better idea of what is really involved.
When I built my barn starting back in 2007 - I ended up just having a standard foundation poured. I evaluated ICFs but decided there wasn't much benefit since most of the foundation is just buried and I don't have a basement under it. So insulating it wasn't going to be much help. The cost of the ICF's which potentially gave me the ability to do the concrete work - vs. hiring somebody to setup forms and do the concrete themselves I ended up deciding wasn't worth the tradeoffs. I ended up digging the foundation hole myself - hiring somebody to come in and setup the forms and handle the concrete pour - and then did all the backfilling and so forth myself. If I remember correctly the cost for the concrete guy and his formwork plus the concrete for a 28ft x 42ft x 6-7ft high foundation was something like $8500 back in 2007.
If you're going to have a basement though - in a house up in Maine - the ICF's might be worth evaluating closely since you've also got to factor in energy savings over time. Especially since you might be able to save some money too vs. paying a contractor to come in and setup forms.
Just my 2 cents..............
Asaltweapon
NES Member
Have a friend in Maine who swears by these. Built his very nice house from them. Faces NW directly into the prevailing winds with a lot of lake for the wind to be hitting full blast at the building. Very quiet inside and easy to heat.
VTski4x4
NES Member
Glad you bumped this, as I am in the same situation. Won't be able to build for a couple years, but just picked up 35 acres in Hanover (howdy neighbor), and hope to add an additional 45 in 5 years. Sounds like your plans are very similar to mine in regards to size, build, power, heat etc. Since I can't build yet, I plan on working on clearing the lot (driveway is done, and part of the 35 acres is logged), hunting, 4 wheeling, snowmobiling, etc. The seller of the land is a developer, and good friend, so I have some pretty good guidance in regards to the specifics of building, utilities, etc.
wjsmall97
NES Member
I am also looking to put up something soon in Naples Maine,but it will be more likely a double wide or modular/prefab. I am looking to find people to do some site work, well and cement slabs for probably a double wide and a 1.5 car, two story garage.
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fshalor
NES Member
The campground we stay at in Hanover has one. Looks awesome. Best hot water shower on a single digits morning I've ever had.
Newer unit but only burns wood. Pain to load daily.
I researched them a little and the autoloading pellet capable ones are awesome.. screw drive for the win.
Newer unit but only burns wood. Pain to load daily.
I researched them a little and the autoloading pellet capable ones are awesome.. screw drive for the win.
See
The place we have in NH has some characteristics that work for you. Although small (1,250sf) and low-budget, it was designed as a passive solar house, with a lot of windows facing south, and a central atrium and brick chimney. No fireplace, it was designed for a wood stove. The house also has a propane fueled Rinnai wall furnace that is very efficient but requires electricity for the fan.
The house is built on a slab as it’s very wet at times. To make up for it there was a two story, 24x24 garage. Cedar siding doesn’t need painting. Built with an asphalt roof, we replaced it with metal.
There are a number of skylights and a farmer’s porch. Works well.
The house is built on a slab as it’s very wet at times. To make up for it there was a two story, 24x24 garage. Cedar siding doesn’t need painting. Built with an asphalt roof, we replaced it with metal.
There are a number of skylights and a farmer’s porch. Works well.
