Luger help

EddieCoyle

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I've got a couple of Lugers (an S/42 and a byf 41) that are having similar FTE problems. I can barely get through a mag without a round failing to eject. I've been shooting Remington UMC and WWB (I have yet to reload 9mm because it's been cheap, although that is about to change).

I've replaced mainsprings and striker springs in both. I have new Wolff mag springs but do not know how to replace them. Would new mag springs help alleviate the problem? If so, how do you replace them? I'm using original mags.

Should I replace the ejector springs? Both seem really strong. I keep them clean and run them wet (but not too wet) with CLP.

I've read that the early European 9x19 rounds were hotter than what we get here now for factory ammo. Should I try hotter ammo? And - can someone recommend a load?

Any other ideas?
 
I wouldn't expect the mags having worn springs to cause an FTE - FTFs, yes, that's what I replaced my mag for. Mine was having FTFs every mag until I replaced it with a new Mec-Gar. The Mec-Gar works perfectly, bought it because I couldn't figure out how to change the original mag spring either.

When it doesn't eject, is it leaving the brass in the chamber, or dragging it out and not popping it clear of the receiver?

I just looked at mine again, and it just occurred to me that if the feed lips on the mag are bent out, the cartridge still in the mag might ride up high enough to catch the back of the brass coming out of the chamber - it's a pretty tight fit in there. Does the last round in the mag eject properly?

As you might guess, I'm not a Luger genius. I bought mine for no better reason than I wanted one, and ended up with one of the ex-police Century imports, with the import marks stamped in the barrel so hard you can see the distortion in the rifling. Still shoots well, in spite of their best efforts. I would like to get the original mag running, though.

Good luck....
 
Have they had problems since you first got them? I know squat about Lugers but have heard from a few people that because they were made to such tight specs that if the parts have been changed out and some numbers don't match, the gun could have all kinds of problems as far as function.
 
Have they had problems since you first got them? I know squat about Lugers but have heard from a few people that because they were made to such tight specs that if the parts have been changed out and some numbers don't match, the gun could have all kinds of problems as far as function.

The numbers all match, and they've done it the whole time I've had them. I had really hoped that swapping out the springs would fix the problem, but it didn't.
 
Talk to Neil Keller at Custom Ballistics in Decatur, IL. Anyone who can take a couple of 9mm lugers, split them lengthwise, do a bit of welding and end up with a 45ACP luger should be able to solve your problem. Tell him I sent you.
 
Not a luger junkie either but I seem to remember that the Luger design prefers sub machine gun ammo. Hirtenburger was imported by a company way out of state a few years ago.
 
It's the ammo, I've had that problem in all my lugers from the 22's to the 9's.

WWB and UMC are usually known to be weak loads. It's a matter of the toggle system and it takes more force to operate it than a regular slide.

I'm surprised you are not loading your own! I do not reload at all because I would do something like filling up the shell with powder and using the bullet to compress it to get the hottest load I could. Ending up with my gun dissasembled for me!!!!!
 
I'm surprised you are not loading your own!

I know. I have the dies, brass, and projectiles, but I don't shoot a lot of 9mm.

I haven't loaded it in the past because it was cheap enough to buy the R-P stuff from Dick's. I'm just about to run out of the stuff that I stocked up on when it was $5.98 per box of 50. That was back when it was on sale and they'd give you 10% off when you bought 10 boxes. I got there when the place opened and asked for some 9mm.

When the guy asked, "How much?"
I said, "All of it."
 
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