Kroil and Loctite

[FPrice]

Backstory: I bought this Marlin 39A in 1971 (my first firearm!). It had a scope on it which hid a small problem or two.

Fast forward to this year: After years of not shooting it the scope seemed to be going bad, would not adjust POI. Took the scope off and realized that the buckhorn sight was missing the insert which slides back and forth to adjust elevation. Tried to find a replacement online but no luck so far.

I then decided to go with a Skinner Sights peep sight. However the scope mount is acting like it is welded to the receiver. Have no idea if it was loctited on or if this is just accumulated years grit or just being in place. Put some Kroil on the mount set screws yesterday but still can't get the screws to turn yet.

If the previous owner had used Loctite, will Kroil loosen it? If not, what are my options?

 

[Chet0729]

I dont think Kroil will dissolve the lock tite. Heat will however. A soldering iron or soldering gun held on the screw head for a short while may help.

 

[knoxy]

I dont think Kroil will dissolve the lock tite. Heat will however. A soldering iron or soldering gun held on the screw head for a short while may help.

+1 for heat.

 

[icyclefar]

Heat

Either the tip of a soldering iron or a butane pencil torch

 

[Arto]

just don't screw up the heat treat on the barrel....

 

[grizquad]

+++ for heat if there is locktite on the screw. BUT probably small screw, use a good vice to hold rifle and a good screw driver (not harbor freight) and tap the screw driver while trying to turn, acts like a mini impact tool.
BTW Marlin 39A with the gold trigger was my first rifle in 1969! sold it when I was poor

 

[cockpitbob]

Heat: Sometimes you can get away with heating the tip of a screwdriver and holding it firmly in place for 10-20 seconds before applying torque. That keeps the heat localized.

The few times I've done this I got the screwdriver barely red which means the temper is gone and I've wrecked my screw driver.

 

[mac1911]

Just use/buy a soldering iron. The "pencil" style work fine.
Hold it on the screw.

Let kroil do it's work.

The advice of a solid way to hold the rifle is key. Pad a vice with leather gloves or wood. Buy proper screw driver bits for guns. Make sure the driver fits the screw end to end and seats to the bottom.

 

[cockpitbob]

Buy proper screw driver bits for guns. Make sure the driver fits the screw end to end and seats to the bottom.

Really good advice here. Nothing says Fud like a gun who's screw slots are all chewed out.

 

[FPrice]

Well, I tried the other night and no luck. Held the soldering gun (more like a soldering pencil) on as long as I could but no luck. Even thought the tip seemed to be getting hot, I have no idea how much it was heating the screw.

But, like I said in my OP I really have no idea if the scope mount was loctited or not.

I'm afraid that the next stop is a good gunsmith.

 

[mac1911]

Well, I tried the other night and no luck. Held the soldering gun (more like a soldering pencil) on as long as I could but no luck. Even thought the tip seemed to be getting hot, I have no idea how much it was heating the screw.

But, like I said in my OP I really have no idea if the scope mount was loctited or not.

I'm afraid that the next stop is a good gunsmith.

Did you let the iron get hot first?
Another thing you can try is take a clamp and "squish" down on the scope mount next to the screw. You night relieve the tension just enough to allow the screw to break free.
Also if your bit is the driver type place it in the screw slot and give it a few good raps with a hammer....just good enough to shock it.

Can you post pics

 

[Rob Boudrie]

I'm afraid that the next stop is a good gunsmith.

Good move.
It is easier for a smith to remove a stuck screw than the broken shaft of a screw with a broken head.

 

[greencobra]

red loctite?? good luck with that, you gotta blast...or use some serious heat. warm screwdriver or a soldering gun ain't gonna help. yep, a smith is needed.

 

[Dan S]

Well, I tried the other night and no luck. Held the soldering gun (more like a soldering pencil) on as long as I could but no luck. Even thought the tip seemed to be getting hot, I have no idea how much it was heating the screw.

But, like I said in my OP I really have no idea if the scope mount was loctited or not.

I'm afraid that the next stop is a good gunsmith.

Depending on the type of Loctite used, up to 400 degrees is needed to soften it. The pencil type soldering iron will take a while to work on it. A soldering gun, less time, and a propane torch used gently will do it faster, and not affect the heat treatment, if there is any on the .22.

 

[mac1911]

Depending on the type of Loctite used, up to 400 degrees is needed to soften it. The pencil type soldering iron will take a while to work on it. A soldering gun, less time, and a propane torch used gently will do it faster, and not affect the heat treatment, if there is any on the .22.

Per loctite instructions 550'F will release red loctite.

 

[jpm]

many times you can break a stuck screw by screwing it in tighter a little bit before trying to loosen it, did this with a rusted screw on a Springfield 03 recently after fighting with it for way too long.

- - - Updated - - -

btw, here's your sight parts...

www.ebay.com/itm/Marlin-Model-25-39...178408?hash=item3ad0529da8:g:w0YAAOSwpLNX~-bc

 

[Wendell]

If the previous owner used Loctite, will Kroil loosen it? If not, what are my options?

Tetra eats Loctite.

http://www.tetraguncare.com/