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Kimber 1911
- Thread starter 2garfields
- Start date
rogzballz
NES Member
I would suggest you determine your purpose, for target (high usage) I would not get an aluminum framed 1911. I love my basic S&W, I changed the springs and it's shooting like new again. There are a lot of options out there and you'll want to shoot a few before you decide on your first one, but then they're like potato chips, you can't just have one.
Kimbers aren't on the EOPS list so if you want one you'll have to get one from a private party in used condition. You might want to look at S&W or Ruger in the 1911 area,also I think SIG's version of the 1911 are available for sale in Ma.
It is going to be a range gun. What is the disadvantage on an aluminum frame? I have shot some rounds out of Sig and S&W 1911, and there are so many different one out there, as a newbie with a budget of $1G, which I should I start wit?
Mass-diver
NES Member
Light gun = more recoil (worth the trade off for a carry gun, but not for a target pistol).
I think you really can't go wrong with one of the new "E series" S&W 1911s
Independence Arms
Instructor
I would go with the E series also. If you wanna meet up, you can try mine. As for the Kimbers, unless you get an older model, you might run into reliability issues.
I own three Kimber Series I. I do not recommend Kimber Series II. Right now, I think Ruger is the way to go in MA. It looks every bit as good as my Kimber Series I at a very reasonable price.
I wrote up my opinions in detail in this thread: http://www.northeastshooters.com/vb...911-Opinions?p=2178435&viewfull=1#post2178435
I wrote up my opinions in detail in this thread: http://www.northeastshooters.com/vb...911-Opinions?p=2178435&viewfull=1#post2178435
Independence Arms
Instructor
The E series I have has a scandium alloy frame, so it's the lightweight model.
It would depend on what you are looking to do in a 1911.
The Ruger is very nice also, but may need some customizing to suit your needs. There is a whole thread on the Ruger. For the price, I don't think you can go wrong there.
If your looking for something out the gate with no customizing necessary, go for the E series.
It would depend on what you are looking to do in a 1911.
The Ruger is very nice also, but may need some customizing to suit your needs. There is a whole thread on the Ruger. For the price, I don't think you can go wrong there.
If your looking for something out the gate with no customizing necessary, go for the E series.
I have the most experience with my Ruger SR 1911, which I use for daily carry and range practice. It's a full-size, steel-frame and I love it. It can be found for $650 - $750 incl. tax.
I won't tell you which model to get, but some things to consider:
#1 - what's available? Colts, Kimbers, Springfields and many other 1911s are not available for sale new in Massachusetts. So if you want one of those, you have to buy used. New, you're limited to Smith & Wesson, Para, Ruger, Sig, Auto Ord, and STI.
#2 - What kind of frame? Lightweight frames (aluminum, scandium) are great for carry, but increase perceived recoil and follow up shot time on the range. Blue frames are beautiful, but show wear. Parkerized frames are a classic look, but can get scratched. Stainless is a little heavier, but will hold up to rust and hide dings & scratches better. When you look at a gun, give the frame and slide a wiggle - does it lock up tight, or does it wiggle & rattle around. Look at the back of the gun, to the left and right of the hammer. How big of a gap is there between the slide and the frame. The tighter the lockup, the higher quality the gun. Low end guns are super loose and rattle around. High end guns are hand fitted, one slide to one frame. Everything else falls in between. Fit & finish issues are a big deal these days - I've seen several production guns that are supposed to be on the higher end come out of the box with some surprising fit & finish issues. Look over your gun thoroughly before buying.
#3 - What size? Government model is the full sized frame with a 5" barrel. Commander models have the same sized frame with a 4" barrel. Officer have a 3" barrel and shorter frame, designed for concealed carry. Keep in mind, smaller, lighter frame, more recoil.
#4 - Sights. Three dot sights are the default here, although many models these days come with combat sights standard. Night sights, if it's a defensive gun. Some low end models have the original GI sights, which (IMHO) suck. High end models have adjustable sights, if you're getting into precision shooting.
#5 - Trigger. The best feature of a good 1911 is its trigger. Few factory guns comes with custom tuned triggers these days, so you might want to send it to a gunsmith for a trigger job, regardless of what you get.
#7 - other features - beavertail grip safety (ergonomics, prevents hammer bite if you have meaty hands), ambi safety, custom grips, custom parts like extended mag releases, thumb safetis or slide stops, etc, etc are all available.
So with all that in mind, your final option is to buy a frame & slide set, and build your own gun. Might cost more than $1k in the long run, but you'll have a unique gun that's "yours."
#1 - what's available? Colts, Kimbers, Springfields and many other 1911s are not available for sale new in Massachusetts. So if you want one of those, you have to buy used. New, you're limited to Smith & Wesson, Para, Ruger, Sig, Auto Ord, and STI.
#2 - What kind of frame? Lightweight frames (aluminum, scandium) are great for carry, but increase perceived recoil and follow up shot time on the range. Blue frames are beautiful, but show wear. Parkerized frames are a classic look, but can get scratched. Stainless is a little heavier, but will hold up to rust and hide dings & scratches better. When you look at a gun, give the frame and slide a wiggle - does it lock up tight, or does it wiggle & rattle around. Look at the back of the gun, to the left and right of the hammer. How big of a gap is there between the slide and the frame. The tighter the lockup, the higher quality the gun. Low end guns are super loose and rattle around. High end guns are hand fitted, one slide to one frame. Everything else falls in between. Fit & finish issues are a big deal these days - I've seen several production guns that are supposed to be on the higher end come out of the box with some surprising fit & finish issues. Look over your gun thoroughly before buying.
#3 - What size? Government model is the full sized frame with a 5" barrel. Commander models have the same sized frame with a 4" barrel. Officer have a 3" barrel and shorter frame, designed for concealed carry. Keep in mind, smaller, lighter frame, more recoil.
#4 - Sights. Three dot sights are the default here, although many models these days come with combat sights standard. Night sights, if it's a defensive gun. Some low end models have the original GI sights, which (IMHO) suck. High end models have adjustable sights, if you're getting into precision shooting.
#5 - Trigger. The best feature of a good 1911 is its trigger. Few factory guns comes with custom tuned triggers these days, so you might want to send it to a gunsmith for a trigger job, regardless of what you get.
#7 - other features - beavertail grip safety (ergonomics, prevents hammer bite if you have meaty hands), ambi safety, custom grips, custom parts like extended mag releases, thumb safetis or slide stops, etc, etc are all available.
So with all that in mind, your final option is to buy a frame & slide set, and build your own gun. Might cost more than $1k in the long run, but you'll have a unique gun that's "yours."
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