I won't tell you which model to get, but some things to consider:
#1 - what's available? Colts, Kimbers, Springfields and many other 1911s are not available for sale new in Massachusetts. So if you want one of those, you have to buy used. New, you're limited to Smith & Wesson, Para, Ruger, Sig, Auto Ord, and STI.
#2 - What kind of frame? Lightweight frames (aluminum, scandium) are great for carry, but increase perceived recoil and follow up shot time on the range. Blue frames are beautiful, but show wear. Parkerized frames are a classic look, but can get scratched. Stainless is a little heavier, but will hold up to rust and hide dings & scratches better. When you look at a gun, give the frame and slide a wiggle - does it lock up tight, or does it wiggle & rattle around. Look at the back of the gun, to the left and right of the hammer. How big of a gap is there between the slide and the frame. The tighter the lockup, the higher quality the gun. Low end guns are super loose and rattle around. High end guns are hand fitted, one slide to one frame. Everything else falls in between. Fit & finish issues are a big deal these days - I've seen several production guns that are supposed to be on the higher end come out of the box with some surprising fit & finish issues. Look over your gun thoroughly before buying.
#3 - What size? Government model is the full sized frame with a 5" barrel. Commander models have the same sized frame with a 4" barrel. Officer have a 3" barrel and shorter frame, designed for concealed carry. Keep in mind, smaller, lighter frame, more recoil.
#4 - Sights. Three dot sights are the default here, although many models these days come with combat sights standard. Night sights, if it's a defensive gun. Some low end models have the original GI sights, which (IMHO) suck. High end models have adjustable sights, if you're getting into precision shooting.
#5 - Trigger. The best feature of a good 1911 is its trigger. Few factory guns comes with custom tuned triggers these days, so you might want to send it to a gunsmith for a trigger job, regardless of what you get.
#7 - other features - beavertail grip safety (ergonomics, prevents hammer bite if you have meaty hands), ambi safety, custom grips, custom parts like extended mag releases, thumb safetis or slide stops, etc, etc are all available.
So with all that in mind, your final option is to buy a frame & slide set, and build your own gun. Might cost more than $1k in the long run, but you'll have a unique gun that's "yours."