Just picked up a S&W 22a-1. Nice!

Cabinetman

Cabinetman

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Hi guys.

I sold my old 1930s vintage High Standard .22 to another collector a few months ago. I was using it regularly when I held my pistol classes. But, it's so old, it has no safety features a new student would encounter today. So, I began looking for a good .22 to replace it.

I don't shoot it regularly so "investing" in a good .22 revolver wasn't very attractive. But if I went with a semi-auto, it would have to be reliable and easy to use. So, I began my search and it came down to two: a Rugar and this S&W. Since S&W is in my backyard and I loved the features, the S&W 22a-1 came home with me a couple days ago. I headed to the range on Saturday afternoon and enjoyed it. I even had a newbie shooter with me who had never fired a hangun before. He did extremely well with it.

DSC_0001.JPG


It's got some heft to it weighing in at 2 lbs, 1 oz unloaded. That tames the miniscule recoil very well. The grip is hefty, too. Fits a larger hand easily. There's a weaver rail attached for optics, should you want them. Teardown is very much like a High Standard and very easy. Trigger feels great...probably no more than 3 pounds, maybe less. The mag drop (and it does drop clear) is an ambidextrous button at the front of the grip. It's easy to drop either left or right handed but doesn't get in the way as it's slightly recessed. It has a safety on the left side, complies with MASS laws as it's got a chamber indicator, too.

It's a very handsome handgun, too. You can also purchase wood grips for it but I'm going to hold out for some target grips when they're available some day. It does come with two magazines.

I don't get excited by handguns generally but this one is really fun to shoot. Even younger shooters will have no problems controlling this one. Got this one for $249 out the door at a local shop so price was very reasonable for a quality-made plinker.

Just thought I'd share a bit. If any of you have one of these I'd like to hear your experiences and what I can expect. I also have one question: What's the -1 designation mean? Can't figure that one out.

Rome
 
I have the 22A and I love it now. When I first got it it jammed terrribly, but now that it's broken in I love it.
 
She's a beauty!

I was just talking to a friend of mine this morning about this gun. I'm either going to get this one, a Ruger or the Walther p22. It would seem my best bet though would be to go with this one or the Ruger as the Walther seems to have some bad reviews. Any thoughts?
 
I'd have been happy with the Ruger but, as mentioned, since Smith and Wesson is right up the road, service should be an issue if needed. Both the Ruger and S&W 22a weight the same have have the same barrel length.

Rome
 
Sweet looking pistol, can you tweak it for Bullseye. Basically I am looking to get a Bullseye pistol with that wooden grip they use that fits like a glove WITHOUT investing $1-2k. i am in the sport for fun not to go pro?
 
I was ready to buy the Ruger Mark III on Saturday until I asked to see it broken down (I'd heard it's really difficult to do). The owner of the gun shop took damn near 30 minutes trying to take it apart. Ended up using another one and finally got it apart, then had to put it back together. That extra piece on the back that needs to catch the pin is just way too involved for me. I've never taken a gun apart and I don't want to have to bring it somewhere in pieces because I can't get it back together.
The 22a has a push button and you can take it apart just with that.
 
I've never setup for 'bullseye' so I don't know what adjustments you'd need to have. The front blade site is fixed. The rear site is fully adjustable for windage and elevation.

Shooting it literally out of the box, it grouped at about 2 o'clock, aiming at the center of the target. A few minor tweaks got it down to where it would most probably shoot very tight groups with the proper ammo.

Here's the specks if that will help. And, they also make a couple of other variations of this handgun like the 22s. It weights a full 10 ounces more but I don't know why. It might be because the lower is heavier metal. The 22a has an alloy lower receiver.

Model: 22A
Caliber: .22LR
Capacity: 10+1 Rounds
Barrel Length: 5 1/2"
Front Sight: Patridge Front
Rear Sight: Adjustable Target
Grip: Rubber Grip
External Safety: Manual Thumb
Frame: Large
Finish: Two-Tone
Overall Length: 9 1/2"
Material: Alloy
Weight Empty: 32 oz

Rome
 
Becka said:
I was ready to buy the Ruger Mark III on Saturday until I asked to see it broken down (I'd heard it's really difficult to do).
Click to expand...

The first few times sucks for two reasons. The first is, the gun is very tight. It's difficult to get the hole in the receiver and frame to line up. The pin is also very tight so it's a PITA to get in and out. After a couple of times it gets much easier.

The second thing is just the learning curve. Once you've done it a couple of times it's not too bad. You don't have to take it apart that often, just run a boresnake or a home made patchworm through it.

I've got two of them and love them. If you're getting stove piping spend $10 and get a VQ edge extractor. My MkIII has been flawless, my 22/45 was picky at first. It would only reliably feed CCI mini-mags. Once I put the edge extractor in it feeds everything great.
 
Becka said:
I was ready to buy the Ruger Mark III on Saturday until I asked to see it broken down (I'd heard it's really difficult to do). The owner of the gun shop took damn near 30 minutes trying to take it apart. Ended up using another one and finally got it apart, then had to put it back together. That extra piece on the back that needs to catch the pin is just way too involved for me. I've never taken a gun apart and I don't want to have to bring it somewhere in pieces because I can't get it back together.
Click to expand...


This just takes some practice. I have an MK III and the first time I took it apart, I couldn't for the life of me get it back together. Frustration took over and I was really going to bring it to a gunshop and pay them to fix it. I walked away from it for a day and came back. It really does get better each time you do it and you will get familiar with the inner workings of the gun. Once you understand what piece does what and how it works it goes back in easy.

Generally you won't be stripping it down like this all the time to clean, unless you really have OCD or something. Just a wipedown, brushing, and a few patches should clean it right up.
 
Skeet732 said:
Sweet looking pistol, can you tweak it for Bullseye. Basically I am looking to get a Bullseye pistol with that wooden grip they use that fits like a glove WITHOUT investing $1-2k. i am in the sport for fun not to go pro?
Click to expand...

Most of the sub $1-2k bullseye guns I see on the line are S&W Model 41's (which are pretty close to $1k) or the rugers. It's my first season but I shoot a Ruger MkIII, 5.5" bull barrel, VQ volthane target grips, a VQ sear, and an ancient Aimpoint 2000 red dot. There are lots of aftermarket parts for the Ruger's: grips, triggers, etc.
 
CCI is the way to go. When I took it to the S&W range on Saturday, all I had with me were a few boxes of Remington and they were irratic. Plenty of good rim hits but the pistol but a number of FTF which is, of course, a real PITA. I tried a couple of mags of CCI and voila! Shoot a good quality ammo.

BTW, I do still have that one question and yet another.

What does the 22a "-1" mean?

Also, do you think I can shoot PMC Zapper ammo through this pistol? It's just a high-velocity .22 that's supposed to be very reliable. I've got a bunch of it and I don't think it'll be an issue but just thought I'd ask.

Rome
 
I am assuming that the "-1" is the new variation... I had one of the 22A's and for me I just liked the Ruger II - now I have 2 with the 6 inch bull barrel....

Also, do not dry fire with your 22 - I remember that mine had a clear nick/indentation....

Did you get any of the extra plastic buffers? Mentioned in another post - be careful not to snap the hook on the rear of the top assembly when disassembling.....

I also had the failure to fire on ammo on the 22a but the ruger had no issues - not sure if ruger strikes further in from the rim or what....
 
You will need lots of buffers if you guys are shooting high velocity or CCI mini-mags in all of the mags.......

Trick to assemble and disassemble - use the end of a table to press in the button under the barrel so you can have one hand on the frame and the other to gently lift the barrel assembly....

Also shameless plug but I have one of the 22A mags up for sale on the forum.....
 
Cabinetman said:
I'd have been happy with the Ruger but, as mentioned, since Smith and Wesson is right up the road, service should be an issue if needed. Both the Ruger and S&W 22a weight the same have have the same barrel length.

Rome
Click to expand...

I have the S&W M&P40 and love it. I think I might try to find the 22a. Seems like the ruger is not that fun to take apart and clean. Thanks for letting me know
 
JoeyB said:
I have the S&W M&P40 and love it. I think I might try to find the 22a. Seems like the ruger is not that fun to take apart and clean. Thanks for letting me know
Click to expand...

My brother has a Ruger Mark III I believe and I have a S+W 22A. We've put probably close to the same amount of rounds through each of our guns (at least 1000 or so) and he has had several stove pipes and I have yet to have one that I remember. The 22A is very easy to take apart and has been very reliable.
 
drumenigma said:
My brother has a Ruger Mark III I believe and I have a S+W 22A. We've put probably close to the same amount of rounds through each of our guns (at least 1000 or so) and he has had several stove pipes and I have yet to have one that I remember. The 22A is very easy to take apart and has been very reliable.
Click to expand...

Well I wouldn't pass judgment until it's been broken in with a few bricks of high velocity. If he's still having problems (stovepipes), he needs a Volquartsen Edge Extractor. My MkIII has been flawless since day 1, my 22/45 wouldn't feed anything but CCI mini-mags until I put one in.
 
Last edited:
lord1234 said:
becka: check agguns they have a decent deal on them I think. Also, consider getting the wood grips. Super comfortable.
Click to expand...

In MA you will generally get the wood grips rammed down your throat when you buy a 22A... something to do with compliance BS.

Course you can get the rubber ones and swap em out, though.

-Mike
 
Becka said:
I was ready to buy the Ruger Mark III on Saturday until I asked to see it broken down (I'd heard it's really difficult to do). The owner of the gun shop took damn near 30 minutes trying to take it apart. Ended up using another one and finally got it apart, then had to put it back together. That extra piece on the back that needs to catch the pin is just way too involved for me. I've never taken a gun apart and I don't want to have to bring it somewhere in pieces because I can't get it back together.
The 22a has a push button and you can take it apart just with that.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't take any info from someone who couldn't put back together a MKIII. Like everything else on this planet, if you don't know what you are doing, you are bound to fail.

It is as simple as pushing the hammer up from the cocked position and holding the gun with the barrel pointed up. That way the piece you are talking about is hanging in the proper position for installing the main spring.

Or you could just google it.

I luv my MKIII 22/45 Hunter. It taken every .22lr I've used and will even feed the odd Aguila Colibri no powder rounds. They wont cycle, but they feed just fine.
 
lord1234 said:
compliance bs? do tell!
Click to expand...

It's not on the approved firearm roster, but is sold as a 'Target' pistol. One of the features that makes a 'Target' pistol is a 'Target' pistol grip.


(b) If the firearm is a pistol, it must have a barrel length of at least five inches, and it
must contain at least four components from the following list produced at match
grade: a target trigger, a custom or bull barrel, a ported barrel or compensator, a
custom barrel bushing, an adjusted, beveled or improved magazine well, an
extended or custom slide release button, a target hammer, a custom feed ramp, a
custom ejection port, a custom extractor, target grips, or a trigger pull weight of
less than four pounds.
Click to expand...
 
Becka, the buffer is a small piece of plastic that snaps onto the back end of the spring guide. When the bolt slams back, it hits this plastic piece to absorb some of the whack rather than metal hitting metal. In this case, the plastic is pretty hard, probably nylon or something like it. It's definately a wear piece as is why they provide you with a "spare". I wonder how long they last!

Rome
 

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