Just got a 3D printer, anyone else have one ?

[hminsky]

There was a project on Kickstarter for a low cost 3D printer, we finally received our kit last month, and it's working pretty well now.

Usable build area is about 180mm x 180mm x 180mm. Resolution is about 0.2mm, with a 0.5mm nozzle, and up to .1mm vertical layers (although that's pretty slow to print).

Here's our printer, with some test prints in ABS plastic. It's really tough stuff!
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/...s/5763588316280579537?authkey=COSS7oymkLTPmwE


I'm going to try printing out an AR15 lower to try with our M&P 15-22, when I get a chance:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26677

 

[dnepro-mike]

good stuff. congrats!
i was thinking about recently myself.

would you be able to print something for me for a fee if i provide you with .stl files?
good luck with the lower print. just makes sure you put plenty heft around buffer tube are, reinforce the heck out of - that's most common place of failure for lowers (and not only plastic ones). also hinges where upper attaches. won't hurt. would hate to see you hurt if you try shooting it and something blows up in your face.

BTW, re-heated ABS filament is not quite as tough as virgin one that was heated to proper temperature and molded as one solid mass vs many thin layers that printers do.

i've seen thick printed ABS parts fail with the brake that looks like a broken stick of chalk. just FY.

 

[hminsky]

Here's an AR15 grip I downloaded from Thingiverse, printed in black ABS. I am planning to put it on the AR15 lower that I build for the MP15-22, if I can get that to work.

Hopefully the AR15 lower for a .22 like the MP15-22 does not need to be that strong, as most of the strength is in the bolt assembly and upper.

 

[atilla]

i have access to one--the engineers couldn;t get that mag to print right though. made me a little orange lamborghini instead.

 

[hminsky]

If anyone has the CAD file for a MP15-22 magazine, I'd like to try to make some. I'd use a metal magazine spring of course, but could print the magazine and follower if I had the bits in .stl format, or in Alibre format.

 

[TOY539]

i have access to one--the engineers couldn;t get that mag to print right though. made me a little orange lamborghini instead.

Forget the Lambo. I vote for pre-ban mags. Any color will do.

 

[warwickben]

Is that Arduino based ?

When u gonna start making glock frames jk

 

[hminsky]

I'm not sure what the processor it uses is, they have a custom driver board with the CPU ,stepper motor drivers and sensors on it.

 

[MasterShinken]

Cool, I've been thinking of getting one of these for rapid prototyping. the grip looks great.

 

[warwickben]

I wants sure if you bought it or made it.
I forget the open source 3d printer projector going on. Rep-rap i think self replicating 3d printer.The idea is you offer some one whose made one the cost for the parts u can't buy and they make them on it for you. Then once you make urs u make a set for some one. Cost roughly 300$ if you know how to make ur own pcb boards.
They even got diys to convert it to a mini cnc/router. Laser cutter etc.

 

[exo]

I'd be interested in one of these printers if it could make something real durable. I imagine a .22LR AR lower wouldn't have to take a ton of abuse, but a .223 probably would.

 

[dnepro-mike]

I'd be interested in one of these printers if it could make something real durable. I imagine a .22LR AR lower wouldn't have to take a ton of abuse, but a .223 probably would.

printers by definition can not make thing equally as durable as injection molding machine.
what makes polymers strong is molecular cross-linkage that occurs during setting stage.
entire mass of is cross-linked because all of it exists in the semi-liquid x-link state at the same time and upon cooling all links formed simultaneously throughout the polymer mass.

printers do it in layers. lots of tiny layers. only small portion of the polymer exists in x-link state and cools rapidly upon extrusion from 'hot end' of the printer.
each subsequent layer is not cross-linked with previous via super strong molecular bond but rather through thermal diffusion which is much weaker bond.

that's how i understand chemistry and physics of technical polymers.

 

[TZCHRIS]

Looks pretty cool. What type of files can you use? Will it take SolidWorks models?

 

[rupluggedin]

Here is what happens under pressure with 3D printing .

- - - Updated - - -

Here is what happens under pressure with 3D printing .

 

[namedpipes]

I'm going to try printing out an AR15 lower to try with our M&P 15-22, when I get a chance

Did you ever get a chance to do this?

 

[hminsky]

Did you ever get a chance to do this?

The printable lower has a couple of issues with my kind of printer, it requires so much 'support' material that it's a real pain to clean up. Some people are working on a modified version which is more self supporting while printing.

But ... I did print up a 5.56 magazine for my new AR15

 

[warwickben]

Will that work as a mag or is it just for fun?


Send it!

 

[namedpipes]

Will that work as a mag or is it just for fun?


Send it!

They work.

The more important question is, can he print a "taller" magazine

 

[Scarecrow]

printers by definition can not make thing equally as durable as injection molding machine.
what makes polymers strong is molecular cross-linkage that occurs during setting stage.
entire mass of is cross-linked because all of it exists in the semi-liquid x-link state at the same time and upon cooling all links formed simultaneously throughout the polymer mass.

printers do it in layers. lots of tiny layers. only small portion of the polymer exists in x-link state and cools rapidly upon extrusion from 'hot end' of the printer.
each subsequent layer is not cross-linked with previous via super strong molecular bond but rather through thermal diffusion which is much weaker bond.

that's how i understand chemistry and physics of technical polymers.

Based on (my understanding of)this, could you take the finished product, pack it with clay, and bake it to just over the softening point, then let it cool to reinforce those x-links, or would that just weaken the whole thing further? Basically, it would be like using the finished printed product to make a one-time use mold... I would imagine the biggest concern would be voids and occlusions in the clay due to improper packing, but the idea would be sound, yes?

 

[warwickben]

Hmm wanna sell me one lol.


Send it!

 

[dnepro-mike]

Based on (my understanding of)this, could you take the finished product, pack it with clay, and bake it to just over the softening point, then let it cool to reinforce those x-links, or would that just weaken the whole thing further? Basically, it would be like using the finished printed product to make a one-time use mold... I would imagine the biggest concern would be voids and occlusions in the clay due to improper packing, but the idea would be sound, yes?

it depends on the type of polymer used. there are two types thermosetting and thermoplastic.

thermoplastic at certain temperature regains plasticity and can be molded further, although every subsequent re-melting will create lesser quality linkings due to some of the x-bonds not unbonding completely.

thermosetting can not be remolded and re-heating will just destroy product altogether.

ABS - filament of choice for most printers is a thermoplastic so it could be OK to subject to the kind of 'tempering' you suggest. however this would be a third re-heating (1-st being extrusion into ready filament done by manufacturer. 2-nd in the hot end of the printer). that's why use of virgin ABS material is sought after in the industry and commands a higher price.

 

[dnepro-mike]

They work.

The more important question is, can he print a "taller" magazine

you can just print two halves and then assemble it with hi strength epoxy.
that's how AK orange "bakelite" mags were made. those actually not bakelite but rather glass filled HDPE.

 

[jasons]

How much does a printer like that cost to build? Might be a fun winter project with my son if it's not insanely expensive.

 

[warwickben]

Google riprap...
I've seen them built for less the 500$ and more then 1000$. The trick is found people willing to make the parts to make urs for free or cost...


Send it!

 

[namedpipes]

Maybe hminsky would be willing to make some parts for us to make more printers...

 

[dnepro-mike]

I don't need one right now, but i would pay reasonable fee to have parts made.

 

[hminsky]

I got mine from www.printrbot.com

They have a 'junior' version for $400, but it's print area is pretty small and it only prints using the "PLA" material, which is actually good for a lot of things and has less
fumes, but I like the
ABS plastic that I can use in my version (the printrbot+ laser cut model)


The one I have is the "printrbot" which was a kit that cost $699, so it's not real cheap, but it's a fun project and very educational I think. It takes a lot of fiddling around to
get the parameters correct, and the system calibrated, and debug it when something goes wrong, all of which is great engineering training! Defintely better for someone with
some time to spare, or a kid who's really in to it.

 

[hminsky]

I can try to make spare parts if anyone needs some, but making a whole set is kind of painful. I've had to tweak everything just so to get gear teeth and other fine features to print out acceptably. I need to get a cooling fan hooked up to get better temperature control at the extruder head.

 

[tdubbs]

I gotta say, that's pretty awesome!

 

[warwickben]

You should make more of those green mags for nes members. I'd rock one or two 10rounders made by a nes member. I just got a S&W mp15 lower I'm building.


Send it!