If you were to get a SW500....

If you want to impress your pals, get the four incher. If you want to shoot it and impresss yourself, get the more sensible 8 3/4 incher.

A monster caliber demands and deserves the heft of a longer, heavier barrel.
 
4 Inch

Hey there,
I bought the 4" model a few months ago and it is quite accurate. I only have access to 100 yard range and I can group very well.
If you are going to mainly hunt with it I would go w/ the longer barrel.
In my opinion, if you are going out past 100 yards... bring a rifle.
I bought mine as a bear protection gun. I backpack in remote areas across the country and the 4" barrel conceals well. It travels in a pelican case dry box or on a chest holster. The recoil is not as bad as I thought it would be.
My vote is for the the 4"
Good luck
 
Pilgrim,

In my mind, the question is, "What do you want the gun to do?"

If you want it as a compliment to your other S&W handguns (from your thread in the Gallery), get the 4" barrel.

If you want to use it for handgun hunting, get the 8 3/8" barrel.

If you want a bear country gun, 4".

If you want long range target shooting, 8 3/8".

It's all up to you. But I'd say get both...
 
When I bought mine I went with the 4" bbl. When comparing the two side by side, it just seemed to balance better in my hand. I will not be using mine for hunting, but I have reliably hit a target at 75 yrds with it, which is the furthest I think I'd ever need to use it in a non-hunting situation. I do camp out west and I bring it along in an across the chest holster, which I like as well.
 
If you want to impress your pals, get the four incher. If you want to shoot it and impresss yourself, get the more sensible 8 3/4 incher.

A monster caliber demands and deserves the heft of a longer, heavier barrel.

With all due respect, that's wrong. First of all, any version of the S&W 500 is going to impress his pals.

I've shot both versions many times (I own a 4", and have access to the 8-3/8" version) and with most loads, you're going to feel more recoil with the longer barrel. There's a lot more that goes into producing and mitigating recoil than the mass of the gun.

If the barrel lengths and compensators were the same, then you'd have less felt recoil with a heavier gun. However, the barrel lengths are not the same. With heavier (>350gr) bullets, the longer barrel length makes the recoil feel worse. This is because the bullet is in the barrel - and therefore pushing the gun back at you - for a longer time. This extra recoil more than offsets any reducing effect you'll get from the extra weight. The 4" version also has a better compensator. I have some reloads that are uncomfortable to shoot with the 4", but are downright dangerous in the 8-3/8". The same loads in my .500 S&W Handi-Rifle have the recoil of a load of 12 gauge magnum buckshot.

One of my favorite "tough guy" tricks is to let someone shoot one of those loads with the Handi-Rifle, then load one into my 4" revolver and offer to let them shoot it. When they refuse, I say, "Suit yourself." and fire it at the target one-handed. The people I shoot with think I'm nuts.

If you want to test the recoil yourself, come to the Shirley Rod and Gun Club this Sunday (the 19th) for our Annual Turkey Shoot and you can try both, side-by-side with the same loads. One of the events is a target shooting contest with the S&W 500. You'll have the choice of shooting my 4" model, or the Club President's 8-3/8" version.

As far as accuracy goes, they're both tack drivers. If you scoped them, you would probably not be able to detect any accuracy difference between the two. With open sights, the longer sight radius of the 8-3/8" version makes it easier to aim so you'd probably end up with better groups. However, I shoot the 4" better because the longer version is so heavy that it's harder to hold steady without a rest.

I bought the 4" because it looks cooler, makes a bigger noise, throws a bigger fireball, and was easier for my 11 year old to shoot (the 8-3/8" was too front-heavy for him to shoot off-hand). It also has interchangeable compensators (one for lead, one for jacketed). If you shoot lead through the fixed-compensator on the 8-3/8" version, you'll spend hours cleaning the compeensator with a dental pick.

You should probably not get either if you don't reload.
 
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Why limit yourself to just one ?

I was just on the S&W site they have quite the selection !

I'd start with a 4" as it's the most practical choice. Easily carried/concealed - Well [thinking] for a .500 anyway, and the sheer fun factor - Fireball, muzzle blast, concussion... Do really need to go on ?

As for the others...
There's the Survival snubbies with the 2 3/4" barrels, (I have a bit if an issue calling a .500 a "snubbbie" - no matter how short the barrel !) then there' the 5", the standard 8", an 8 3/8" with Hi-viz sights & interchangable compensators.

Not enough choices ? OK, there's more !

How about a Lothar-Walther Custom German Rifle Barrel in 6 1/2" or 10 1/2" ?

There's a drop-dead gorgeous hunter in black with a unfluted stainless beaded finish cylinder ...with "No price available !" [crying]

...and then there's the .460's. ...and don't even get me started on the Performance center stuff ! [shocked]

I am in deep do-do here. [thinking] [hmmm] [thinking]

Seriously though, I am strongly considering cashing in some investments and treating myself. I haven't had any really serious toys in more than a decade, heck I've been driving used trucks for 13 years.

OK that's it, I'm leaving for FS now.

I mean it !
 
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I have both, and to rub in some salt, my wife bought both of them for me![smile] [smile] [smile]

I am seriously considering bobbing the 4" DOWN TO 2 3/4". That way I don't have to convince her that I need another 500. That and I am sending the cylinder out to be machined for moon clips. I just have to shoot this puppy in an IDPA match sometime!

If I had to choose only one, go with the8 3/8". I find it easier to shoot than the 4" (only slightly). You can add a scope if desired and the muzzle blast (fireball) is a little smaller.
 
Why limit yourself to just one ?

I was just on the S&W site they have quite the selection !

I'd start with a 4" as it's the most practical choice. Easily carried/concealed - Well [thinking] for a .500 anyway, and the sheer fun factor - Fireball, muzzle blast, concussion... Do really need to go on ?

As for the others...
There's the Survival snubbies with the 2 3/4" barrels, (I have a bit if an issue calling a .500 a "snubbbie" - no matter how short the barrel !) then there' the 5", the standard 8", an 8 3/8" with Hi-viz sights & interchangable compensators.

Not enough choices ? OK, there's more !

How about a Lothar-Walther Custom German Rifle Barrel in 6 1/2" or 10 1/2" ?

There's a drop-dead gorgeous hunter in black with a unfluted stainless beaded finish cylinder ...with "No price available !" [crying]

...and then there's the .460's. ...and don't even get me started on the Performance center stuff ! [shocked]

I am in deep do-do here. [thinking] [hmmm] [thinking]

Seriously though, I am strongly considering cashing in some investments and treating myself. I haven't had any really serious toys in more than a decade, heck I've been driving used trucks for 13 years.

OK that's it, I'm leaving for FS now.

I mean it !

DAMN JUST DAMN !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

DO IT DO IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That things gotta be a hoot to shoot LOL!!

* Most Powerful Production Revolver in the World Today
* Massive 500 S&W Magnum® Cartridge 2600 ft/lb. Muzzle Energy
* A Hunting Handgun For Any Game Animal Walking
* Recoil Tamed with Effective Muzzle Compensator
* Hogue Sorbothane® Recoil Absorbing Grip
* Internal Lock
* Ultimate Defensive Carry and Dangerous Game Backup Handgun
* Easily Removeable Muzzle Compensator for Different Recoil Reduction Effects and to Accomodate Different Types of Ammunition
* Comes with 2 Compensators; 1 for Lead Bullet and 1 for Jacketed Bullet Ammunition
* Muzzle Energy Capability in Excess of 2000 ft/lb. in a 56 oz. Package

In 2003 the gunsmiths and engineers at Smith & Wesson wanted to deliver maximum power for serious handgun hunters. The power they sought required an entirely new frame, the massive "X-Frame™," and was the basis for the new Model 500™, the most powerful production revolver in the world.

This ushered in the era of the "big gun" and was only the beginning. What followed was a 4" barrel Model 500™, strong enough for the biggest game, yet easy to carry. New this year is the addition of a .50 caliber model, with an 8-3/8" barrel and removable compensator, and the remarkable Model 460XVR, with the highest muzzle velocity on earth. For ultimate power and velocity there's nothing even close to an X-Frame model handgun.
 
would you get the 4 incher or the 8 3/8 incher?


Why?


Dennis,

I should add that if you're ever in the Shirley/Groton area, drop me a line and you can try mine with a variety of loads until your wrists get tired or I run out of ammo. Your wrists will get tired first.

JF
 
In 2003 the gunsmiths and engineers at Smith & Wesson wanted to deliver maximum power for serious handgun hunters. The power they sought required an entirely new frame, the massive "X-Frame™," and was the basis for the new Model 500™, the most powerful production revolver in the world.

This ushered in the era of the "big gun" and was only the beginning. What followed was a 4" barrel Model 500™, strong enough for the biggest game, yet easy to carry. New this year is the addition of a .50 caliber model, with an 8-3/8" barrel and removable compensator, and the remarkable Model 460XVR, with the highest muzzle velocity on earth. For ultimate power and velocity there's nothing even close to an X-Frame model handgun.

These hand cannons cost big money to shoot don't they?
And I'd bet that you are not picking up a lot of free brass at the range either.
 
Dennis,

I should add that if you're ever in the Shirley/Groton area, drop me a line and you can try mine with a variety of loads until your wrists get tired or I run out of ammo. Your wrists will get tired first.

JF

Thanks very much for the offer, but I suspect I'll have a 500 before I get out that way. It's a very generous offer.

Thanks to all of you for your comments/suggestions. I'll ponder them thoroughly.
 
These hand cannons cost big money to shoot don't they? And I'd bet that you are not picking up a lot of free brass at the range either.

If you have a modicum of reloading equipment, neither of these "issues" are
real problems. You buy a few boxes of commercial ammo to start, and
then you have a source of brass. Starline also sells the brass as
well, I believe. Since it is a revolver, you don't really "lose" cases
unless you have to throw them away due to too much abuse. (EG, the
cases are easily dumped into a bucket/tray or whatever after firing, for
personal recycling.) I would imagine with plinking loads you can reload
a 500 S+W case many, many times before having to toss it.

IMO thats really the best way to get into big bore revolvers (eg, .44
mag and above) is as a reloader, or with the intent of becoming one.
Otherwise you can't really get the full flexibility out of these awesome
guns.


-Mike
 
I have only shot the 4" model, but I love that 8¾. It looks way cool. Plus could you imagine the look on the face of guy breaking into your house looking down the barrel of that Bad Larry?
 
If you shoot lead through the fixed-compensator on the 8-3/8" version, you'll spend hours cleaning the compeensator with a dental pick.
It's generally a good idea to use a bullet with a jackated base in compensated guns for just this reason. FMJ still leaves an exposed lead base that can be the source of compkrud.
 
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