Everyones favorite Glock connector

Krad813

Krad813

Joined
Jan 31, 2017
Messages
52
Likes
3
Feedback: 0 / 0 / 0
Now that my gen 4 G19 is no longer stock I have been contemplating upgrading the trigger and connector. Right now I am looking at the Overwatch Precision trigger and was wondering what was everyones favorite connector is. The factory "." connector seems fine (especially since I did the $.25 trigger job) but if a new connector really helps with lessening the pull weight I may be interested.

PS I have been looking at Ghost connectors
 
I'm pretty sure I used the Glock "-" connector in my G19 when I got rid of the 12# NY trigger. It made all my dreams come true.
 
I've got Hybrid triggers with reduced pre-travel from GlockTriggers, (glocktriggers.com), installed in my G17 LoneWolf and my G17 Gen4 Glock. It's a drop-in trigger. They essentially take stock components and polish them. The difference in feel between this trigger and the stock is substantial. The guys at GlockTriggers are pleasant, (I've spoken to them on the phone), and easy to work with.

I'm pleased with the product and with the company.
 
i like the . connector.

my other preferred setup is the NY1 with 3.5# connector, either the OEM "-" connector or the lone wolf 3.5#. it gives it a revolver-like trigger pull with absurdly strong reset. this is the other "glock approved" trigger configuration. much has been written about how the NY1 spring is somewhat superior in that the spring acts through compression rather than extension with a standard glock trigger/sear spring.
 
The more shallow the angle on the connector, the spongier the trigger pull. Watch some Johnny Glock videos on youtube, this guy will really help you understand Glock triggers. With all of the gimmicky crap out there, I would suggest sticking with stock parts that had been massaged and polished. Don't bother with different trigger return springs unless you do not want the trigger to reset properly. Don't go lower then 4.5 lbs for a striker spring unless you want to be married to a certain primer for the rest of the gun's life.
 
I use the OEM 3.5 connector. Some of the aftermarket stuff is OK, some of it is dodgy and shady as ****. I really don't like the ghost edge... that thing is weird.

-Mike
 
eboos said:
The more shallow the angle on the connector, the spongier the trigger pull. Watch some Johnny Glock videos on youtube, this guy will really help you understand Glock triggers. With all of the gimmicky crap out there, I would suggest sticking with stock parts that had been massaged and polished. Don't bother with different trigger return springs unless you do not want the trigger to reset properly. Don't go lower then 4.5 lbs for a striker spring unless you want to be married to a certain primer for the rest of the gun's life.
Click to expand...

IMO don't ever change the striker spring from stock, period. I never have and I never will, not even for competition guns- Every glock I've ever seen ****ed up on the line has been tarted up with shit like that... and altering the striker spring and recoil spring values too much changes the way the entire gun works. A lot of folks dont understand this but IMHO a Glock is a "system" not a series of tangentially related parts. Part of the Glock having lower parts count is often time the part ends up serving more than one function.


-Mike
 
ToddDubya said:
I'm pretty sure I used the Glock "-" connector in my G19 when I got rid of the 12# NY trigger. It made all my dreams come true.
Click to expand...

LOL, well, getting a dot or even a stock 5.5 setup after that is going to feel really light. It might not even be a 3.5. A lot of those 2nd gen guns ran low too (im guessing it was a gen2, unless this was a gen3 MA window glock )

-Mike
 
drgrant said:
IMO don't ever change the striker spring from stock, period. I never have and I never will, not even for competition guns- Every glock I've ever seen ****ed up on the line has been tarted up with shit like that... and altering the striker spring and recoil spring values too much changes the way the entire gun works. A lot of folks dont understand this but IMHO a Glock is a "system" not a series of tangentially related parts. Part of the Glock having lower parts count is often time the part ends up serving more than one function.


-Mike
Click to expand...

Following the system approach, I noticed that if you are using a reduced power recoil spring (such as a 13lbs); if you are using a stock striker spring you will have issues of the slide not returning fully forward. You will get a condition mimicking a light strike, but instead the gun is not actually in battery. The reason is the pressure of the striker on the trigger bar is counteracting the recoil spring pushing the slide forward. So if you change the recoil spring to tune the gun to your loads, it necessitates changing the striker spring.
 
eboos said:
Following the system approach, I noticed that if you are using a reduced power recoil spring (such as a 13lbs); if you are using a stock striker spring you will have issues of the slide not returning fully forward. You will get a condition mimicking a light strike, but instead the gun is not actually in battery. The reason is the pressure of the striker on the trigger bar is counteracting the recoil spring pushing the slide forward. So if you change the recoil spring to tune the gun to your loads, it necessitates changing the striker spring.
Click to expand...

Yes, that's why I don't change those either, well, unless they wear out. Then again I don't shoot powder fluff loads out of my G34 anyways.

-Mike
 
I tried the ghost 3.5# one and found it "soft". After I tried a Double Diamond 3.5# and liked it better, a bit more "crisp". Since then I've standardized on the DD connector. But use them only for competition. I have yet to try a Glock "-" but may in the future.

I did get the updated G42/43 Connector (Glock one) and that was soft as well, went back to the stock one. Its a carry gun, so no need to do more than a fluff and buff.
 
ipscdrl said:
If you desire a gun with less than 100% reliability, then by all means, start putting non-OEM parts in it.
Click to expand...
The problem is that Glock makes a "-" connector but restricts the sale, reserving these for target guns like the 17L and possibly some LE deals. Aftermarket connectors are in many cases identical to the Glock - connector, but with a price tag of about $30 instead of the $3 that Glock charges for the connectors they do sell.
IMO don't ever change the striker spring from stock, period.
Click to expand...
My G21 had a problem with light primer strikes with the factory spring. A replacement factory spring solved that problem. Go figger.
 
Since I have already polished the internals of the G19, and my trigger is very smooth, would a new connector even make a positive difference?
 
Assuming all connectors are polished equally, and no other parts are changed or modified:

The angle of the connector effects the feel and weight of the trigger pull. A steeper angle makes a crisper trigger pull, but heavier weight. A more shallow angle make a lighter weight trigger, but with more of a roll.
 
Krad813 said:
Now that my gen 4 G19 is no longer stock I have been contemplating upgrading the trigger and connector. Right now I am looking at the Overwatch Precision trigger and was wondering what was everyones favorite connector is. The factory "." connector seems fine (especially since I did the $.25 trigger job) but if a new connector really helps with lessening the pull weight I may be interested.

PS I have been looking at Ghost connectors
Click to expand...

Is this a "toy" gun to be used at the range only?? Or is it an all around gun?

If its anything other than a toy, I'd get the Glock OEM 4.5 lb connector. I have had situations with light strikes with aftermarket connectors. They were camming the trigger bar down earlier than stock so it was releasing the striker before it was as far to the rear as a Glock connector allows it to go before camming it off the trigger bar.
 
It's an all around gun for me.. From everyone's recomendation I think I will just keep it stock, as the stock "." connector is very smooth. I am still looking at the new trigger but even they recommend to keep the stock connector.
 
dcmdon said:
Is this a "toy" gun to be used at the range only?? Or is it an all around gun?

If its anything other than a toy, I'd get the Glock OEM 4.5 lb connector. I have had situations with light strikes with aftermarket connectors. They were camming the trigger bar down earlier than stock so it was releasing the striker before it was as far to the rear as a Glock connector allows it to go before camming it off the trigger bar.
Click to expand...

Perhaps that could be the case with a + connector, since the steeper angle allows the striker release with less travel at the cost of a heavier pull weight, but a - connector has longer trigger (and striker) travel before releasing. Due to the connector ramp angle on the - connector you have less resistance (pull weight) over a longer pull distance. The difference in striker travel couldn't be more than 1/64".
 
Last edited:
Here's what I know eBoos.

After market connector = light strikes.

Switch back to stock connector. Problem goes away.

Trigger pull weight as measured with an actual trigger gauge was no less than Glock "-" connector which did not produce light strikes.

Moral of the story. If you are going to carry a glock, keep it glock.

If its a toy, play around to your heart's content.

My G35 with a 9mm KKM conversion barrel, a fluff and buff, a 4# striker spring and the 4.5 lb connector it originally came with runs 100% under the controlled conditions I use it for in competition. (reloads with soft federal primers, gun clean before every match, every round chamber checked into the KKM barrel, every round checked for 100% totally seated primer, known shooter)

But I wouldn't trust it with my life.
 
dcmdon said:
Here's what I know eBoos.

After market connector = light strikes.

Switch back to stock connector. Problem goes away.

Trigger pull weight as measured with an actual trigger gauge was no less than Glock "-" connector which did not produce light strikes.

Moral of the story. If you are going to carry a glock, keep it glock.

If its a toy, play around to your heart's content.

My G35 with a 9mm KKM conversion barrel, a fluff and buff, a 4# striker spring and the 4.5 lb connector it originally came with runs 100% under the controlled conditions I use it for in competition. (reloads with soft federal primers, gun clean before every match, every round chamber checked into the KKM barrel, every round checked for 100% totally seated primer, known shooter)

But I wouldn't trust it with my life.
Click to expand...

Kind of a categorical statement, and not everyone's experience. The Ghost 3.5 connector in my G19 runs 100%. Always has, and I have no problem/concerns about carrying it.

OP, the one good thing about connectors in Glocks is they're cheap, and can be replaced in less than 10 minutes. The Ghost connector is $10.50 at Brownells. Others are similarly priced. It's one of the few trigger mods you can try out, and it you don't like it, the gun is not altered and you're out (almost) nothing. Try the OEM ".", the "-", Ghost, Zev, Lone Wolf, etc. At worst, you're out $50, and you find what works for you.
 

Similar threads

Glock Triggers
Replies
15
Views
496
chris_1001
chris_1001
Glock switch. How do you legally own one?
2
Replies
33
Views
5K
Picton
Picton
Glock 34 slide options
Replies
1
Views
255
paul73
paul73
Glock 27 New
Replies
2
Views
419
Benjie M.
Benjie M.
Glock Failure to feed
Replies
19
Views
1K
paul73
paul73
Back
Top Bottom