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Body Armor?

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IDK if I should post this in General or here, so please forgive me.
What does everyone recommend for Body Armor?
And where to buy?
I've been looking at bulletproofme, opinion on them?
Thanks in advance.


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bulletproofme is legit. we just had a thread about armor.

we also just ran a buy for AR500 plates, and i ran a plate carrier buy. there is currently another one open.
 
You should start by knowing how much protection you would like from your armor and how much you can afford to spend.

Not to mention how uncomfortable they are to wear!! Figure out how/when/where you are going to use it before investing in it only to pack it away because it is too bulky and uncomfortable. We're not in a war zone (for the most part) that demands that sort of vigilance.
 
Rifle plates re HEAVY.. Keep that in mind too... Don't think you'll be running around like some kind of tacticool super soldier with those things on when SHTF. I would weigh the need against your surroundings and the combatants you'll likely face. Do you think there are a lot of other AR-15 toting folks in Cambridge? Purchase accordingly.
 
Not to mention how uncomfortable they are to wear!! Figure out how/when/where you are going to use it before investing in it only to pack it away because it is too bulky and uncomfortable. We're not in a war zone (for the most part) that demands that sort of vigilance.

the right carrier makes a difference. with the side plates out the TT ones are amazing. side plates are a bit restrictive, but with only the front and back you're adding nearly 20 pounds and while substantial, it's not so bad that all you can do is low crawl around.
 
do you need both kevlar and plates? I know some kevlar armor is enough for small caliber pistol rounds (shit against rifles). But is a metal/ceramic plate enough in a carrier? or do you need something to capture the shrapnel?
 
yes, you will want kevlar underneath or you want your plates coated to prevent spalling.

Not to step on your toes, but kevlar underneath or behind steel plates will not stop or contain spall. Adding kevlar to rifle plates has something to do with ceramic standalone plates that I don't know enough about to offer knowledge on.
 
Not to step on your toes, but kevlar underneath or behind steel plates will not stop or contain spall. Adding kevlar to rifle plates has something to do with ceramic standalone plates that I don't know enough about to offer knowledge on.

this is true--i meant to place more emphasis on the coating. sorry, guise!
 
Thx all. Looking more into Kevlar vests than plate carriers.
But I have seen some Kevlar Vests with pockets for plates.
Would that be the "best of both worlds".
I had to LOL on the AR's in Cambridge.


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Mainly SHTF case. Handguns most likely in a urban area.
But I do like the idea of Adding Plates if needed.


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You probably want a IIIa vest for pistol rounds. It will give you zero rifle protection, and zero edged weapon protection.
 
Thx all. Looking more into Kevlar vests than plate carriers.
But I have seen some Kevlar Vests with pockets for plates.
Would that be the "best of both worlds".
I had to LOL on the AR's in Cambridge.


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You could go for someting like this...

NIJ Body Armor Carrier

Buy the soft panels and wear it, then if/when you get plates, just drop them in the pocket.
 
You could go for someting like this...

NIJ Body Armor Carrier

Buy the soft panels and wear it, then if/when you get plates, just drop them in the pocket.

Thx. So I would wear that OVER a Kevlar Vest it seems.
I think I saw on Bulletproofme they have some Vests with a option of having Plate Pockets added. I could be wrong.
I need to stop researching at 2-3AM lol.


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Thx. So I would wear that OVER a Kevlar Vest it seems.
I think I saw on Bulletproofme they have some Vests with a option of having Plate Pockets added. I could be wrong.
I need to stop researching at 2-3AM lol.


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You would put your armor in that carrier. It has big "pockets" for soft armor, and small "pockets" for rifle plates. It is likely made of a heavier material then issued police carriers.
 
Steal Plates are twice as heavy, or more as Ceramic, there alot cheaper, but then there's the chances of Spauling. I guess having your jaw replaced is better than being dead. People say soft armor over steel prevents spauling but thats a myth ive seen busted on youtube (if it's on youtube, it has to be true). pretty sure steel will stop just about anything except the 50 bmg.

Ceramic is very light but extremely expensive, will stop up to 30.06 depending on level certification. No spauling of course, but people say they have a shelf life, not sure if thats the certification expiring or if the ceramic actually breaks down over time??. Like anything, it depends on what u want to spend. You have to stick to the big name brands because there is alot of fakes out there, you get what u pay for. People will claim level 4 certification plates for 300 bucks, but would u be willing to trust your life on it?? The real certified ones wil set u back near 1k a pop.

The way i look at it is, if the SHTF most everyone will have AR's and AK's, so plan for the worst. Level IIIa stand alone plates will surfice. Some plates you will need to pair them up with soft armor to get the Level IIIa or level IV rating. So i say go with stand alones and your GTG. There's alot to know, so do ur reasearch if ur serious about getting some.

I'd get a plate carrier, you'll need the molle pouches to carry all ur magazines and ammo.

Contact Body Armor Outlet in NH, atleast one of the saleman are NES'rs so they can hook u up. Tell them ur a NES member.
 
Steal Plates are twice as heavy, or more as Ceramic, there alot cheaper, but then there's the chances of Spauling. I guess having your jaw replaced is better than being dead. People say soft armor over steel prevents spauling but thats a myth ive seen busted on youtube (if it's on youtube, it has to be true). pretty sure steel will stop just about anything except the 50 bmg.

Ceramic is very light but extremely expensive, will stop up to 30.06 depending on level certification. No spauling of course, but people say they have a shelf life, not sure if thats the certification expiring or if the ceramic actually breaks down over time??. Like anything, it depends on what u want to spend. You have to stick to the big name brands because there is alot of fakes out there, you get what u pay for. People will claim level 4 certification plates for 300 bucks, but would u be willing to trust your life on it?? The real certified ones wil set u back near 1k a pop.

The way i look at it is, if the SHTF most everyone will have AR's and AK's, so plan for the worst. Level IIIa stand alone plates will surfice. Some plates you will need to pair them up with soft armor to get the Level IIIa or level IV rating. So i say go with stand alones and your GTG. There's alot to know, so do ur reasearch if ur serious about getting some.

I'd get a plate carrier, you'll need the molle pouches to carry all ur magazines and ammo.

Contact Body Armor Outlet in NH, atleast one of the saleman are NES'rs so they can hook u up. Tell them ur a NES member.

Awesome! Thank you, sir!!


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You will find a lot of plate manufacturers add truck bed liner to help agianst spalling. While plates are amazing without the coating of some kind of anit-spalling system all that kinetic energy gets transferred to the shrapnel and sent into you. I carried a 50lb vest in the military and hated it. I would recomend a light plate carrier with 2 good plates. You also have to think about shooting stance. When wearing a vest yoir natural shoting stance will change. You really need to make sure you square your body to the target. If you do not your vitals are still open to the enemy. Just food for thought. You may also want to waer your vest while shooting and get used to the feel of it and how yoi shoot with it on.
 



The first 3 are what police wear under their duty shirts, not under plate carriers. Thats called concealable armor.
The 4th one is a plate carrier with molle, which is what i would lean towards. you can also add soft armor inside the same pockets where the plates go for extra protection. Personally i's stay away from steel, plus you don't know what ur gettin on Ebay, but if u don't want to break the bank go for it.

This is what i got.


Armor Express Balcs IIIa inserts.

Eagle Industries CIRAS plate carrier with cummberbund. Alot of troops are issued these carriers and inserts, but they also are issued Point Blank carriers and plates. I havn't bought plates yet. like i said, it depends what style and options u want, and of course, price.


View attachment 59348



View attachment 59349
 
Thanks. I think i'm leaning towards concealable armor. Going to research more.
I really appreciate everyone's help here.
Can't really talk to her about it. Lol.


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Last edited:
OK folks, I'm the guy that works for Body Armor Outlet. (Thanks Timber for looking out for me)...

Just to let you know, Point Blank is sharply raising their prices on the 28th so I need those on or before the 27th. This includes PACA, PPE, Point Blank and Paraclete. Their C-Series will be affected the most.

Rick
 
OK folks, I'm the guy that works for Body Armor Outlet. (Thanks Timber for looking out for me)...

Just to let you know, Point Blank is sharply raising their prices on the 28th so I need those on or before the 27th. This includes PACA, PPE, Point Blank and Paraclete. Their C-Series will be affected the most.

Rick

Can I PM or email you about options and suggestions?


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First of all, rkwjunior has been 100% correct in what he has been saying in this thread, all of the other advice is right on too.

The #1 rule of body armor is to wear to protect yourself from what you carry. This is because nearly 40% of shootings on a victim are done with their own weapon. That's some type of a statistical anomaly. I relate to some other simple philosophies, carry a knife to protect yourself and never bring a knife to a gun fight. If you know you're going to be getting into a gunfight, you bring a rifle... etc. Well, a concealable vest is what you wear when you're not expecting anything and a tactical vest is what you wear when you are.

Based on what you're looking on doing, I would go with a level II concealable vest. Why? because I think that level IIIA is overrated for concealable purposes. Level II will stop probably about 95% of what you're going to run into in handguns anyways. If you're just looking for protection against everyday threats that's all you need. Level IIIA was never intended for this use but demand forced the manufacturers to make them. But look at anyone wearing a "concealable" IIIA vest, it sticks out like a sore thumb, they might as well just wear them on the outside.

If you're carrying a .40 or a nine with up to a 6" barrel, you're fine going level II. Plus, they're thinner and more comfortable. The vest that I'm going to recommend is a Point Blank SP+2LE, look at our listing here:Point Blank - Vision Level SP+2LE w/ThorShield? - Body Armor Outlet
We did a live-fire shoot at one single panel in Manchester PD in their range downstairs back in November. You need to check out our listing for the rounds fired at it: to note, FN 57 and the 7.62X25mm even, stopped them both.

The other reason I recommend this vest is that it's only .20" thick and .79 lbs/sqft. You'll end up in a vest weighing about 5 lbs and this stuff is really supple.

Act soon and I'll get it for you at the marked price minus 10%, how's that? That goes for all NES Shooters! But I need your order before on or before the 27th because Point Blank is raising their prices.
 
I also wanted to note on the steel plates, the AR 500 are NIJ.... NOTHING! The Armor Express Triton III+ are the ones to go with there. Me, Derek, Timber, MassMark, Gonzo and others can vouch for them. They are 1/4" thick and I personally witness them stopping an M955 ap round in Jan over at Samson Arms.

I know Richard Davies, father of modern body armor, and he won't tell me how he makes these but we're working together to stop the spalling. I can tell you that one layer of 2 ply Aramid fibers stops about 60-70% of the spalling. Put another layer on and stuff it in a carrier and I can assure you that you won't have much to worry about. Or, you could go ceramic but when you drop it, it's compromised.
 
Wow!! Thank you very much, Rick!! I'm leaning towards that model you suggested.
And a HUGE thanks on the NES discount.


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