I'm in the market for a semi-auto shottie. I'm looking at the Remington 11-87. Now the question is should I go with a shotgun capable of Supermag rounds or will the 3" suffice? I also want to use this same shotgun for rabbit, varmint and bird season. Anyone prefer 1100s over 11-87s? How do the 2 compare in weight?
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Anyone use 3.5" Shells for Deer?
- Thread starter Ma$$hole
- Start date
I prefer the 11-87. 3 inch is plenty for deer, I actually still use 2 3/4" even though I could use 3in. IMO 3 1/2's is more of a thing for waterfowl (specifically Goose) hunting. I feel 3 1/2" slugs would be way overkill. Off the top of my head the weights are about the same
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I dont know about the 11-87. Never shot one.
I do love my 1100.
2 3/4 inch slugs will kill a deer as dead as a 3 incher will with less recoil and quicker follow ups if needed, particularly in a gas operated gun like the 1100 or 11-87.
I rarely use buck but Ive killed plenty with 2 3/4 000 or 00 .
Ive killed well over 200 deer with 2 3/4 inch slugs, Brenneke 2 3/4 inch, 1 oz, with the felt wad being my favorite.
I dont think that 3 1/2 inch buckshot would be overkill. The more pellets the merrier but 3 1/2 inch slugs are really a hell of a lot more than what is needed to kill a deer within effective shotgun range.
JMHO.
I do love my 1100.
2 3/4 inch slugs will kill a deer as dead as a 3 incher will with less recoil and quicker follow ups if needed, particularly in a gas operated gun like the 1100 or 11-87.
I rarely use buck but Ive killed plenty with 2 3/4 000 or 00 .
Ive killed well over 200 deer with 2 3/4 inch slugs, Brenneke 2 3/4 inch, 1 oz, with the felt wad being my favorite.
I dont think that 3 1/2 inch buckshot would be overkill. The more pellets the merrier but 3 1/2 inch slugs are really a hell of a lot more than what is needed to kill a deer within effective shotgun range.
JMHO.
So I suppose it's a better to have than need type of deal then. I could just feed the supermag 2.75"-3" shells for deer and rabbit. Supermags run a little bit more but hell I think it would work for anyday I decide to hunt goose. If i find a hell of a good deal on just a Mag I may bite on it. Thanks for the advice and hopefully this thread can carry on a bit to inform a little more for others.
The 3 1/2" chamber is more for turkey and goose loads than anything else. There are very few 3 1/2 inch slugs manufactured. The only one I know of is Lightfield. I use their 3" commander slugs which are awesome performers but when you look at the ballistics there is very little advantage to the 3 1/2 inchers. Not worth the extra punch in the shoulder IMHO.
3.5" shells were made in response to the changing laws regarding lead shot- specfically that it is against the law to hunt waterfowl with lead shot. Most folks cannot afford, or refuse to purchase, the uber expensive bismuth, etc. shot that has the same killing power as the outlawed lead hence the larger shells holding steel shot. Made for geese, ducks, etc.
I have just begun hunting deer last year but my opinion is that unless you are planning on using a steel slug ;-) you should be aok with 2 3/4 or 3"
Good luck!
I have just begun hunting deer last year but my opinion is that unless you are planning on using a steel slug ;-) you should be aok with 2 3/4 or 3"
Good luck!
lemonlime571
Army Veteran
There is no need for 3 1/2" slugs, but I still have some
I believe they came in rifled and unrifled varieties. Just looking at it is painful!!
I believe they came in rifled and unrifled varieties. Just looking at it is painful!!
I have 11-87 supermag. I got my first deer with 3 1/2" buck shot 17 pellets per shell I think.
The gun does have problems cycling on some lighter 2 3/4" loads. You are supposed to change out a ring and that is supposed to help but I haven't experimented enough. Look at some of the FAQ's on the remington site if that is going to be an issue for you.
The gun does have problems cycling on some lighter 2 3/4" loads. You are supposed to change out a ring and that is supposed to help but I haven't experimented enough. Look at some of the FAQ's on the remington site if that is going to be an issue for you.
There is a big difference. Lightfield only makes sabot slugs which are for rifled barreled shotguns. http://www.lightfieldslugs.com/lightfield/
Sabot slugs are only for rifled barrels.
Foster/Rifled slugs are for smoothbores.
This is what Lightfield 3" commanders do for me at 125 yards
Foster/rifled slugs in a smoothbore will not do the same. You are lucky if you can get them to group 4" at 75 yards.
What is our type of hunting? Shot gun hunting? I have taken numerous deer at 100 yards or over in Mass and NY with shotguns. In addition if I ever draw a gun tag in Iowa, or Illinois that is shotgun country too.
I am a rabid deer hunter. I have a dedicated slug gun just for deer hunting. I think every deer hunter should have the right tool for the job. The best tool they can afford. You are taking an animals life. It is your responsibility to do it quickly and efficently as possible and when you do so they taste better too.
F
Finalygotabeltfed
I've found 2 3/4 to be more than adequate. Places where I've used a shotgun for deer, the distance of the shot was under 50yds.
Any place in open terrain, I'd use a rifle........that leaves out MA.....which I no longer support with any revenue for any licenses anyway.
Any place in open terrain, I'd use a rifle........that leaves out MA.....which I no longer support with any revenue for any licenses anyway.
No, that is pretty much the worst option,especially on a gun like the express that is meant to be multi function.
Sav get a cantilever rifled slug barrel and toss a scope on it. The beauty of that is if you want to hunt birds you take the barrel off with the scope attached right to it and toss your bird barrel on and go hunting. When deer season rolls around you take the bird barrel off and put the Cantilever deer barrel back on and because the scope never left the barrel it should still be perfectly zeroed if you didnt bump it around in storage. It also takes away any possible innacuracy due to fit of reciever to barrel.
You can get a barrel made by remington or also Hastings makes cantilever barrels for remingtons.
dixidawg
NES Member
Great Advice! My funds are going towards better hunting boots and camo this season, so I may stick to bow and muzzleloader this season.
I do have a scope mount that fits over the receiver. I had heard that slugs could be shot through an Improved Cylinder choke (safe?), and also that they make a rifled choke tube (which I have yet to see), that is not quite as accurate as a rifled barrell. Anyone try either method?
I do have a scope mount that fits over the receiver. I had heard that slugs could be shot through an Improved Cylinder choke (safe?), and also that they make a rifled choke tube (which I have yet to see), that is not quite as accurate as a rifled barrell. Anyone try either method?
Yes SAV, improved cylinder will work with foster/rifled slugs. If you get lucky you might even get decent accuracy out to 80 yards or so. I have a winchester with a smoothbore deer barrel that was topped with a low power scope and shot pretty good out to 90 with federal pumpkin loads. But that is not common with smoothbores. Now the scope is off and I use it as an open sighted walking gun for still hunting and drives. You might even be able to pick up a smooth bore slug barrel pretty cheap used for now.
I have no experience with the rifles choke tubes. I have heard some people are happy with them. If you dont mind experimenting and possibly not being happy with the performance you could give it a shot.
Problem is you need to find a sabot slug your gun likes. Every gun seems to shoot one brand or type better than others. That means buying several brands of sabot slugs at 15 bucks a box till you find the ones that shoot good in your gun. Using a rifled choke means you have to do this now with the rifled choke tube and then a second time when you change to a fully rifled barrel. Expensive!
When you do I reccomend you start with the lightfield slugs. I have seen few guns that do not like them. The winchester copper solids have a pretty strong following too.
If you dont want to buy the rifled barrel now I would use the improved cylinder and pumpkin slugs (foster/rifled) for now and then do things the right way when you can afford the rifled barrel. I shot a lot of deer with pumpkin slugs before I bought a rifled barrel gun. You can too.
What type of scope mount is it. Is your reciever drilled and tapped on top or are you using a bolt on side mount? I am not a fan of the side mounts.
I have no experience with the rifles choke tubes. I have heard some people are happy with them. If you dont mind experimenting and possibly not being happy with the performance you could give it a shot.
Problem is you need to find a sabot slug your gun likes. Every gun seems to shoot one brand or type better than others. That means buying several brands of sabot slugs at 15 bucks a box till you find the ones that shoot good in your gun. Using a rifled choke means you have to do this now with the rifled choke tube and then a second time when you change to a fully rifled barrel. Expensive!
When you do I reccomend you start with the lightfield slugs. I have seen few guns that do not like them. The winchester copper solids have a pretty strong following too.
If you dont want to buy the rifled barrel now I would use the improved cylinder and pumpkin slugs (foster/rifled) for now and then do things the right way when you can afford the rifled barrel. I shot a lot of deer with pumpkin slugs before I bought a rifled barrel gun. You can too.
What type of scope mount is it. Is your reciever drilled and tapped on top or are you using a bolt on side mount? I am not a fan of the side mounts.
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Most likely
"If you dont want to buy the rifled barrel now I would use the improved cylinder and pumpkin slugs (foster/rifled) for now and then do things the right way when you can afford the rifled barrel." - Arlow
To put on the scope mount, you pull out the 2 trigger group pins, place the U-shaped scope mount over the receiver, and replace it with a set of longer screws. I can see how you'd get more accuracy out of a barrell mounted scope.
I'll remember Lightfields when I upgrade.
Thanks!
"If you dont want to buy the rifled barrel now I would use the improved cylinder and pumpkin slugs (foster/rifled) for now and then do things the right way when you can afford the rifled barrel." - Arlow
To put on the scope mount, you pull out the 2 trigger group pins, place the U-shaped scope mount over the receiver, and replace it with a set of longer screws. I can see how you'd get more accuracy out of a barrell mounted scope.
I'll remember Lightfields when I upgrade.
Thanks!
