Any T/C22 rifle owners here?

between covid and the holidays I felt generous.....
I asked as local FFL once how much he would give me for a 22lr ---winchester sears clone.
his words--- Unless its a very nice target rifle I make it a policy to give $25 for 22s. I dont want them to be honest. This was not long ago
I'll do 30$ [rofl]
 
Funny thing is. Even if OP comes back and says its all fixed with a little lube. Nobody is gonna want to buy it still. Especially for $350

Actually, it is fixed. The cleaning did it. The piece on the side of the bolt that moves the ejector was gummed up, as mac1911 said the oil turns to varnish which is what it looked like when I disassembled it. Gave it a good cleaning and zipped through 100 rds with success. A couple of times the last round in the mag jammed but I'm sure that's the mag. Guess I should've cleaned it the last time I had it out.
 
Funny thing is. Even if OP comes back and says its all fixed with a little lube. Nobody is gonna want to buy it still. Especially for $350
Well, for a two month old rifle that has only seen a few hundred rds with two extra factory mags that you cannot find anywhere, $350 is a great price. I know the Ruger mags work, I tried them, I just don't want to have to count to ten so I don't fire it with no round in the chamber. I would load a blank .22 in first and then 9 live rds in the Ruger mag.
 
Q1: Does that mean you cleaned it before you first fired it
(which you should do with every new gun
to remove shipping grease and manufacturing debris
),
or that you have never cleaned it?

If you cleaned it before you first fired it,

Q2: Did you neglect to replace the firing pin stop pin B-13,
and damage the chamber breech edge by dry-firing?

main-qimg-1fcc6257ee27abecf2fd9f891579ebee
Thanks had the directions right there with me, the B-13 was the first thing that fell out when I pulled the gun out of the stock. LOL
 
Well, for a two month old rifle that has only seen a few hundred rds with two extra factory mags that you cannot find anywhere, $350 is a great price. I know the Ruger mags work, I tried them, I just don't want to have to count to ten so I don't fire it with no round in the chamber. I would load a blank .22 in first and then 9 live rds in the Ruger mag.
You should buy it [smile]
 
Thanks had the directions right there with me, the B-13 was the first thing that fell out when I pulled the gun out of the stock. LOL
Hope you noticed, saved, and reinstalled the B-12 equivalent (Firing Pin) Rebound Spring
that holds the firing pin back until/unless struck by the hammer.

The rebound spring isn't preloaded under tremendous pressure,
but it's easy to lose if you don't notice it and it falls out of the bolt assembly
after you've removed the firing pin.

I don't think its absence would result in
either light strikes or chamber breech damage from dry firing, but...
...you should be sure it's still installed.

As a matter of fact so far our Ruger Mark pistol's rebound spring
is the only thing that's ever broken on any gun of ours.
I only discovered that during cleaning - the pistol ran fine
with a break of the last few coils. I think the nature of the break
meant that the firing pin was still retracting.

Can't swear a missing spring wouldn't affect a 10/22 harder,
but you might not notice it at first.

I found a claim that the rebound spring helps make the gun drop-safe.

I also suspect that the rebound spring keeps the firing pin retracted
so that as the back of the case slides up the bolt face
during feeding, there is no chance that the side of the
cartridge rim hits a protruding firing pin.
Which could cause the gun to fire out of battery.
Which would be a bad thing.
You'd notice that.

Don't lose a handful of other parts on my account by re-stripping the gun
if you don't have positive memory of positioning the spring during reassembly.

But if your reaction to being reminded of that spring in the exploded parts diagram
is "the what what what-what?"...
(Or if your reaction is, "oh that's where that leftover spring goes..." [rofl]) .
 
Actually, it is fixed. The cleaning did it. The piece on the side of the bolt that moves the ejector was gummed up, as mac1911 said the oil turns to varnish which is what it looked like when I disassembled it. Gave it a good cleaning and zipped through 100 rds with success. A couple of times the last round in the mag jammed but I'm sure that's the mag. Guess I should've cleaned it the last time I had it out.
What they apply at the factory is far from oil or any type of lube. Its corrosive inhibitor film. Just remember this , new guns are not clean.
if I ever buy a new gun again i will try to video orphoto log the crud that comes out of it.
 
Hope you noticed, saved, and reinstalled the B-12 equivalent (Firing Pin) Rebound Spring
that holds the firing pin back until/unless struck by the hammer.

The rebound spring isn't preloaded under tremendous pressure,
but it's easy to lose if you don't notice it and it falls out of the bolt assembly
after you've removed the firing pin.

I don't think its absence would result in
either light strikes or chamber breech damage from dry firing, but...
...you should be sure it's still installed.

As a matter of fact so far our Ruger Mark pistol's rebound spring
is the only thing that's ever broken on any gun of ours.
I only discovered that during cleaning - the pistol ran fine
with a break of the last few coils. I think the nature of the break
meant that the firing pin was still retracting.

Can't swear a missing spring wouldn't affect a 10/22 harder,
but you might not notice it at first.

I found a claim that the rebound spring helps make the gun drop-safe.

I also suspect that the rebound spring keeps the firing pin retracted
so that as the back of the case slides up the bolt face
during feeding, there is no chance that the side of the
cartridge rim hits a protruding firing pin.
Which could cause the gun to fire out of battery.
Which would be a bad thing.
You'd notice that.

Don't lose a handful of other parts on my account by re-stripping the gun
if you don't have positive memory of positioning the spring during reassembly.

But if your reaction to being reminded of that spring in the exploded parts diagram
is "the what what what-what?"...
(Or if your reaction is, "oh that's where that leftover spring goes..." [rofl]) .

I didn't remove the firing pin
 
What they apply at the factory is far from oil or any type of lube. Its corrosive inhibitor film. Just remember this , new guns are not clean.
Possibly my first NES post refers to me removing the "ruby red factory grease" on our Ruger Mark pistol.
(Before the first time we shot it, IIRC).

I didn't remove the firing pin
Bonus! Then the spring is probably still there...
 
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I think the Ruger mags are better than those custom ones, and I don't really have a crying need for the last-round hold-open feature on the rifle.

I really like that last round hold open, but it not worth the hassle of the tedious first round load and the lower reliability compared to the Ruger mags.
 
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