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Another AR question

Mflagg73

Mflagg73

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Ok so I'm starting to get more parts for my first AR build. So far I have the Aero upper and lower with a PSA LPK and I have the dust cover and forward assist.
I just bought a Detroit Gun Works Barrel. A 16.5" 1/7 twist match grade and now what do I get for a gas block and tube? I see there is a couple different sizes for the block and I can't seem to find any place where it says what size it uses. Also that is considered a carbine length correct? For when I need to order the gas tube..

thanks,
Mike
 
Gas blocks will go by the diameter of the barrel where the gas block will mount. Measure with a verniers caliper if you have one.
For gas tube length, how long is it from the gas port to the barrel extension?
 
A quick google search tells me you would like a carbine length gas tube.
I didn't see anything about the gas black but I'm going to ASSUME it's the standard .750, but you can always measure like SJan said.
 
Ok I will have to wait till I get the barrel on Monday and measure it. I have a set of Starret calipers i use for my reloading. would those work?
 
Mflagg73 said:
Ok I will have to wait till I get the barrel on Monday and measure it. I have a set of Starret calipers i use for my reloading. would those work?
Click to expand...

Those will work. If you bought the barrel online, it should list the gas system length (carbine, mid, etc.) as well as the barrel diameter at the gas port.

Are you planning to go with a free float handguard on this? Since you're getting a match grade barrel, I would. Actually since you're building the rifle up yourself, I would no matter what use it was for.

There are also more than a few of us with the tools to help you out. There are things you pick up from actually putting these together that helps out. Not sure if they're in the videos, since I've not watched but one that was a waste of time.
 
Golddiggie said:
Those will work. If you bought the barrel online, it should list the gas system length (carbine, mid, etc.) as well as the barrel diameter at the gas port.

Are you planning to go with a free float handguard on this? Since you're getting a match grade barrel, I would. Actually since you're building the rifle up yourself, I would no matter what use it was for.

There are also more than a few of us with the tools to help you out. There are things you pick up from actually putting these together that helps out. Not sure if they're in the videos, since I've not watched but one that was a waste of time.
Click to expand...

it didn't list any info about the gas system on the site I bought it from also I did a part number search and found at lease 20 other places selling the same barrel and they didn't list it either. Also thanks for the tip about the handguard, that was going to be my next question I still don't know the difference between them. I'm going to do some more reading about them. I know very little about these riffles but slowly learning as I go.
 
Since you are building a gun with a match barrel, I'd get some kind of free float tube.

I'd also consider an adjustable gas block if I were you. The carbine gas system makes for a slim, light little gun, but most are over-gassed. Being able to slow down the bolt can really reduce perceived recoil.

I'm a big fan of the JP aluminum adjustable gas blocks. The JPs ship with a gas tube roll pin, so no need to buy one. I dont know what your goal is for this gun. But this is a recent build I did with a carbon fiber hand guard and the JP gas block.

 
Another option is a heavier buffer. Instead of the standard 3oz, you can go up to about 5oz. Adding a pad on the end of the buttstock will also aid in reducing impact to you. I know a lot of people talk about how light the recoil of an AR15 is. But, if you have a messed up shoulder, and still want to shoot, you have to do as much as possible to reduce impacts to your shoulder.

Personally, I'm a fan of the low profile gas block. That way you can put whatever length handguard you want on the rifle. With one that's railed (like you show) you're limited for what length handguard you can install. I'm also planning on going with steel gas blocks, not aluminum, moving forward. More a personal preference than anything else.
 
I emailed the place I bought the barrel and found out its a mid-length gas system and accepts a standard gas block. So should be a 9" hand guard and a .750 gas block?

as far as recoil goes. I don't mind recoil at all. I love my 45-70 with the 405g buffalo bore I send through it....
 
Mflagg73 said:
I emailed the place I bought the barrel and found out its a mid-length gas system and accepts a standard gas block. So should be a 9" hand guard and a .750 gas block?

as far as recoil goes. I don't mind recoil at all. I love my 45-70 with the 405g buffalo bore I send through it....
Click to expand...

With a low profile gas block, you can go with whatever length you desire. I would just advise getting no shorter than the mid-length handguard.
 
I just bought a VLTOR low profile gas block and a mid length gas tube with roll pin... Now I need to look into the BCG, hand guard, stock then whatever I decide for an optic..
 
Mflagg73 said:
I just bought a VLTOR low profile gas block and a mid length gas tube with roll pin... Now I need to look into the BCG, hand guard, stock then whatever I decide for an optic..
Click to expand...

Just don't get a BCG from Ice Arms... There's a group buy going on for Spike's BCG at a good rate. What kind of hand guard do you want? Just a tube, rails, etc.??
 
Yeah I heard about the Icearms stuff..... As far as a handguard I'm not sure what I really want yet. Pretty much just looking around for something under $150. I was looking at the Spikes a while back but I was looking into the Nickel Boron BCG for $250. Just don't know if its worth the extra cash to buy one or not. I heard it hardly needs oil..
 
Mflagg73 said:
Yeah I heard about the Icearms stuff..... As far as a handguard I'm not sure what I really want yet. Pretty much just looking around for something under $150. I was looking at the Spikes a while back but I was looking into the Nickel Boron BCG for $250. Just don't know if its worth the extra cash to buy one or not. I heard it hardly needs oil..
Click to expand...

For a first build, I'd not blow my budget there. Get some Kroil to clean it with (Acme has it on the shelf)... IMO, the amount of lube a BCG needs shouldn't be a factor. Chances are, you'll lube it up properly and it will never be an issue.
 
Rainier Arms is having a sale on their phosphate BCG's right now for $99, usually $150. That's tough to beat. People on this forum have more hands on experience with the Spike's ones than the RA, and the group buy price is pretty good as too. I don't think you go wrong either way. $250 is a lot for a BCG. Lubrication shouldn't really be a factor in determining your bolt purchase. A well made standard BCG with a Springco buffer spring and an appropriately weighted buffer will run for hundreds/thousands of rounds at a time with minimal lube. If it was me, I'd take the extra money you would spend on the NiB BCG and put it toward the rest of the stuff you need.
 
gearwhore14 said:
Rainier Arms is having a sale on their phosphate BCG's right now for $99, usually $150. That's tough to beat. People on this forum have more hands on experience with the Spike's ones than the RA, and the group buy price is pretty good as too. I don't think you go wrong either way. $250 is a lot for a BCG. Lubrication shouldn't really be a factor in determining your bolt purchase. A well made standard BCG with a Springco buffer spring and an appropriately weighted buffer will run for hundreds/thousands of rounds at a time with minimal lube. If it was me, I'd take the extra money you would spend on the NiB BCG and put it toward the rest of the stuff you need.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the heads up on the $99 BCG. I just ordered one...
 
Mflagg73 said:
Yeah I heard about the Icearms stuff..... As far as a handguard I'm not sure what I really want yet. Pretty much just looking around for something under $150. I was looking at the Spikes a while back but I was looking into the Nickel Boron BCG for $250. Just don't know if its worth the extra cash to buy one or not. I heard it hardly needs oil..
Click to expand...

NB is gay IMHO. Buy phosphate and keep it wet. Not lubing a NB is bullshit. Not worth it. Got a Spikes for 109$. It's great. Breaking in nicely.
 
Mflagg73 said:
Yeah I heard about the Icearms stuff..... As far as a handguard I'm not sure what I really want yet. Pretty much just looking around for something under $150. I was looking at the Spikes a while back but I was looking into the Nickel Boron BCG for $250. Just don't know if its worth the extra cash to buy one or not. I heard it hardly needs oil..
Click to expand...

BEST HANDGUARD EVAAAAAAAAAAAH!!!!!!!
I love it, super low profile, extremely light, easy on the hands and within your budget.
http://www.midwestindustriesinc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_ID=450
 
So for a stock I was thinking of getting the Magpul PRS in black (I have the same thing in FDE on my other AR) and then I noticed they now have a bi-pod that attaches to the bottom rail.... I found one with a A1 buffer tube kit for $275 (Bi-pod extra) what do you think?
 
Mflagg73 said:
So for a stock I was thinking of getting the Magpul PRS in black (I have the same thing in FDE on my other AR) and then I noticed they now have a bi-pod that attaches to the bottom rail.... I found one with a A1 buffer tube kit for $275 (Bi-pod extra) what do you think?
Click to expand...

You can get the buttstock for around 170$ and the buffer parts for around 30$
 
The PRS is not a great general purpose stock. Its big, heavy, and expensive.

Sure if you want to build a 12 lb AR that you only shoot off a bipod, its great. But otherwise, there are better fixed stocks out there for most people's needs.

The Vltor Rifle ModStock comes immediately to mind.

Don

- - - Updated - - -

je25ff said:
Dust cover?
Click to expand...

I don't bother with them on mine. But then again, I'm obsessive about unnecessary weight. Every ounce I can keep off the rest of the rifle is an ounce I can keep off of it, or "spend" on a heavier barrel, which directly affects accuracy.
 

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