groundscrapers
NES Member
If you enjoy the forum please consider supporting it by signing up for a NES Membership The benefits pay for the membership many times over.
I am not sure who you have been talking to about 3d printed metal (DMLS) because the stuff I am using is robust enough for use inside of suppressors at that thickness. You can print in Inconel 718 for christ sakes!
Wonder the legality of letting someone borrow your 3d printer to make a lower? Can't be to hard to load the program/schematic/blueprint and hit "play" right?
Laser sintering is pretty cool stuff, I looked at buying one of these, it was $750K, ouch! You could 3D print anything. GE is printing engine parts for turbines that were almost impossible to manufacture 5 years ago. Anyone got some extra cash? Like $745K? I got $5K
It's all super expensive and not as strong as you'd want it to be.
It doesn't have to be just "strong" it also has to be "tough" (i.e. stand up to impacts, etc.)
When you print in metal you get a porous structure that is prone to cracking
- - - Updated - - -
Unless I missed, it the mag is not printed.
I'm setting up a business for myself with scanners and 3D printers and CNC machines.
I should have the scanner soon (inside the next month) and looking to formally launch in the summer.
I can give you special Boris pricing.
I do not make lowers or any other registerable components.
No illegal or gray area transactions!!!!
A company Called Vader is making a 3d Metal printer that prints without the porosity drawback, supposedly they will be making a machine for less than 10k, What a bargain!!!!
I have a Taurus 740 Slim I wish I had an extended mag for (I know. . . taurus sucks, etc etc etc)
I measured the baseplate and extended it for +2 and VOILA!!!!!
View attachment 97919 View attachment 97920 View attachment 97921
Remember, It's okay if you keep under 10 rds (in this case it goes from 6 to 8).
If you have a preban over 10 rounds you can extend to infinity.
Buy a 3D printer now!
If you cure it with acetone, it'll be a lot stronger. Take an empty paint can, soak some rags in acetone and use magnets to stick the rags to the exterior walls of the can. Elevate the part and put the can over the part so that the rags aren't actually touching it. After 15 minutes remove it and let it cure for another hour or so. The evaporating acetone "melts" the print lines together.
40 minutes. Explains a lot.
God damn, dude. I guess that's why you make the big bucks.
If you cure it with acetone, it'll be a lot stronger. Take an empty paint can, soak some rags in acetone and use magnets to stick the rags to the exterior walls of the can. Elevate the part and put the can over the part so that the rags aren't actually touching it. After 15 minutes remove it and let it cure for another hour or so. The evaporating acetone "melts" the print lines together.
Yah I used to work at GE and I saw those parts, they're really cool and REEEEEEEEALY expensive and only kinda half work.
But they just bought the company that prints in INCO 718 for them and it'll all go silent for the next 10-20 years if not more.
i hate you GE.
I'm in the process of sourcing a DMLS machine with a very large build bed.