1944 No.4 mk1

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I have found a 1944 no.4 mk1 bolt action rifle, belongs to. Family member. Looks like stock is missing some stuff and a couple of screws. Any of you guys know where to get things it needs? Barrel looks clean. Good rifling. Here's on pic. Will get more ImageUploadedByTapatalk1378066664.341505.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1378066676.223196.jpg
 
Thanks guys. What's the best way to make sure it wasn't rebarreled into a different caliber? Want to make sure I'm safe when I'm ready to shoot this thing. Like I said barrel is clean clean.
 
It's missing the complete upper handguard set, and will need a new lower forestock. There's no magazine in the picture, and it seems to be missing the king screw (at the front of the floor plate).

Good news: the barrel hasn't been cut down.

A wartime Long Branch is always worth restoring, if you can find the parts. Those that are missing are just bolt-ons.
 
I would not worry too much about the chambering. If a 303 fits snuggly that you are most likely ok. Also, none of the other WWII calibers or popular American sporting cartridges fit in a 303 chamber except the 30/30. I doubt that it would be changed to that. It is a good idea, if you do not want to spend the money on a gunsmith, to proof test the rifle before fixing it up. If you are not sure how to proof test a gun let me know.

Does the bolt serial number match? On the rearward flat back of the bolt handle there should be the serial number. Is it he same as on the receiver? If it is, then it is a matching gun and might be worth restoring. No. 4's only had the serial number on the bolt and the receiver.

Can you post a picture of the rear of the receiver from the top angle. Also can you post a better picture of the front end of the barrel including the front sight. Often times, when an Enfield was sporterized the bayonet lugs were ground off and the rear sight mounts were ground down. If either of these are the case, then it is not worth restoring.

I have restored several Enfields from the sporter condition. It is very hard to match it exactly with all Long Branch parts. It can be done but it will be expensive and time consuming. But so often these No. 4's were arsenally or field repaired that it will still look good with mix matched parts as that is how most of them are anyway.

Often times a restoration is not cheaper. But you can get a great sense of satisfaction by taking the shame off of an old war horse and bringing it back to it military standard.

You can also try Springfield Sporters for Enfield parts. That is where I would go first.

Springfield Sporters, Inc.

It looks like you will need the forend, the front and rear hand guards, the front band, the front band screw, the rear band swivel, and the front trigger guard screw. At least that is what I can tell from the pics. Finding the wood will be the most expensive. Finding Canadian wood will be real hard, finding British wood will be a little easier. Finding all four stock pieces in the same tone and finish is the hardest part. Matched sets will go for $100 plus on Ebay for that reason. Good luck and post pics when you are done.
 
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Matching bolt. Bayonet lug is there. I would be interested in the proof test. Please enlighten me. I will get more pics though.

I would like to see the rear of the receiver if you get the chance to photograph it. Is the rear sight in place? Is it adjustable or just a flip sight? Since it is matching and the receiver has not been messed with then I would restore it.

To proof test an old milsurp do the following.

Go to the range when no one else is around.
Bring a saw horse and some ratchet straps.
Strap the rifle tightly on top of the sawhorse and point safely down range.
Tie a 50 yard string onto the trigger.
Load the rifle.
Very carefully walk back 50 yards being careful not to pull the string hard.
Get behind cover like a rock, building, tree etc.
Pull the string firing the gun when your body is not at all exposed and no one else is around.

Examine the gun and the spent cartridge. If the gun is in pieces, the gun was not safe to shoot. If the gun is solid and undamaged and the spent case still retains the original shape of a 303 and shows no signs of excessive pressure then the gun is still in 303 and safe to shoot.

This is easy in ME as I can just go to a sand pit. Not sure what your options are in MA to do this safely.

It is the redneck way of doing it. Just make sure you are real careful because if the gun fails big time there will be shrapnel.

BTW... my advice is worth what you paid for it. You bear all the responsibility for your actions. :) Just be real careful please.
 
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Oops
 

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It is all there rear sight wise. But you are missing the firing pin screw. Do not fire the gun until you replace that. It is the little screw hole in the back of the bolt flat knob. It looks like the firing pin is there but it is hard to tell in the pics. I would restore it. You got it for free. You could put $200 into it and come out ahead. If you have any more questions just let me know. LB are considered more valuable than the Brit made ones.
 
How do I tell if firing pin is there?

Dry fire the gun and you will see it protruding. The bolt head also just screws off and it will be there. You can also tell by looking above the empty screw hole in the rear. If there is an empty hole there then you are missing it as well. It was hard to tell in your pics if it was there.
 
Well guys so far I scored a stock setAnd trigger guard front screw. Need to located a front band screw and a firing pin stop screw. So far into this gun for $65 bucks.
 
Good show! Another save. I really like the LBs. I only have one left because I let a friend talk me out the other for his REL scope. They all had some nice wood. 1942 on the btm.

 
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