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Many companies and gunsmiths have resurrected drill rifles over the past many decades.DP rifles often were considered beyond repair or factory rejects and that's why they wound up as drill purpose rifles. Is it possible? Yes. Is it a good idea, probably not without thoroughly understanding why the rifle was DP'd.
It is not something an amateur should do. A bolt under pressure on a receiver where some armorer or factory inspector noticed heat treatment was worn on substandard is a recipe for a deadly kaboom or locking lugs getting sheared off.Many companies and gunsmiths have resurrected drill rifles over the past many decades.
If you are asking this (which you are), then you’d better not do it. Leave it to someone who can answer the question for themself.
This depends on the weld and how well they welded it and where.So I actually have some machining experience, and I can work a Bridgeport. I have some experience working on Mausers, and I machined my own receiver holding block, action wrench, and barrel vise. I slug bores, reload ammo, etc. My hangup on the 1903A3 was the barrel/ receiver tack weld. After lots of research, seems to be a non-issue.
Not exactly- you move the rear peep manually. 03A3 sights have a spring clip that is supposed to hold positions at the various detents. Holding position is often iffy, so most of us who shoot the CMP vintage matches will stake them in place at 200 yards for a typical match load.Love MilSurps. Yeah, for the longest time I was like “why do I want a 1903, it’s just a Mauser clone.” Rear leaf sight and front blade, already have a few. Didn’t realize until a few years ago the 1903A3 existed: Mauser clone with Garand-style click adjustable rear sights. Amazing, since I am already into Garands!
I would not use the press Idea in your mill. Since you already cut into the barrel , make some flats on the barrel. Make sure you bench is very stable. If your bench is moving around your loosing energy.Nice job! I can get the bolt-cutoff weld easily removed, as well as the barrel/receiver weld. Getting the barrels off has been difficult. I have a nice action wrench/barrel vice that I machined myself, but the barrel keeps slipping. My plan is to next hook it up to a hydraulic press. I don't have access to a purpose-built press, but I do have access to a Bridgeport mill. I thought I might mount the barrel vice to the mill table, then put the hydraulic jack between the top of the barrel vise and the underside of the head, where the quill would usually go. I've already made a relief cut in the barrel in front of the receiver, soaked the threads in Kroil, etc. . .
The action wrench handle is welded on and there is a large nut welded to the action wrench for attaching the torque wrench.There is a slug in the chamber, but the barrel has a “v” cut forward of the receiver ring that penetrates all the way into the barrel tube, and this is where they welded the plug. Why two handles on your action wrench?
The heat they use on those welds can be extremely hot. And can distort just about anything and everything.There is a slug in the chamber, but the barrel has a “v” cut forward of the receiver ring that penetrates all the way into the barrel tube, and this is where they welded the plug. Why two handles on your action wrench?
The heat they use on those welds can be extremely hot. And can distort just about anything and everything.
Personally I would cut flats on the barrel shank and set up your barrel vise with flat bushings. Relief cut the should a bit more and make sure your past the face of the receiver.
How about some pictures?OK, so I milled flats on the barrel, started twisting: and the barrel itself started twisting, but the receiver would not break loose! Not sure what to do now other then put it in a lathe and cut a deeper relief cut
You need a deeper relief cut. You need to get past or close to the end of where the barrel should and receiver face contact each other.This pics are from two different receivers, but you get the idea. Relief cut is maybe 2 mm deep