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Your Preferred 6.5 Creedmoor Platform

Rockrivr1

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I've been going back and forth on whether I want to add a new caliber and rifle to the mix as I have a few that I've set up for longer range shooting in 308. Yes, I've read a ton on the performance of 308 vs 6.5 CM as well as other calibers that have been successfully use in longer range shooting and overall I've decided to jump into the 6.5 CM ocean.

I've never been one to go on the cheap route, but for a first run I'd like to keep the cost of the platform, lets say, reasonable. I know that covers a lot of territory so I'm not against waiting and saving more to buy the right rifle. I already have a Vortex Viper PST 5-25x50 that will be used on this platform so I've got the glass covered. Now to find the platform.

I've looked at the Ruger, Savage, Browning, Remington, etc. but haven't decided yet. This will mostly be for bench shooting. Wondering what you've bought, or will be buying, and what you like/dislike about it.

Thanks
 
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Couldn't go wrong when i bought a Remington 700 SPS in 6.5CM ($619). 24" barrel was longer than most for velocity. Just put the Magpul Hunter stock on it, but have not shot with new stock yet. The SPS isn't a bad stock but I liked the Magpul so I changed it.

I do have an LR308 upper in 6.5CM also with a Faxon 20" Gunner barrel but haven't worked that up too much yet.




Good news if you reload, you can make 6.5 CM brass from non-mil 308. I've been loading the Hornady 143 ELD-X with Superformance with sub-moa groups. Don't have a chrono yet but its on the list.

You can go nuts spending $$$ on the rifle and to a certain extent it will help, but the caliber is inherently good to begin with.
 
I do have an LR308 upper in 6.5CM also with a Faxon 20" Gunner barrel but haven't worked that up too much yet.

You just pointed out something that I didn't even think of. I currently have a Rock River Arms LAR8, which is their 308 version. I just looked at RRA's site and they offer a 6.5 CM upper that fits on the LAR8. Interesting. I may have to look into that more.

I'm assuming you've been running rifles without a muzzle brake. Is that correct?
 
I have a spare stripped 308 upper that I am thinking about barreling in 6.5Kardashian, but I am not too sure if I want to take on an other cartridge.
 
I have a Savage model 12 LRP, which is a fantastic rifle, however I wish I had gone with something setup for PRS.

Despite sub 1/2 MOA 5-shot groups with handloads, I would choose a different platform if I could do it over.

Maybe the BA Stealth?
 
What do you want to do with it?

If you're looking to actually stretch your legs with a bolt action, Tikka or Bergara or Ruger PR are the hot things right now. I went Tikka in a chassis and am super happy.

Don't go gas gun. You'll end up either disappointed (M1A) or with a good gun that you can't run in the popular PRS divisions (AR10s) should you ever choose to compete.

Get a brake if it's for fun or competition in a state where you can't mount a suppressor. A mid-weight bolt gun will still come off target, somewhat, otherwise.

EDIT:
I've been loading the Hornady 143 ELD-X with Superformance with sub-moa groups. Don't have a chrono yet but its on the list.

Yeah, ELDs seem to work really well for me, too, and 6.5 is easy to get right. I've never reloaded anything before and am getting 0.54" mean 3-shot groups with the 140gr ELDs, after tinkering only with charge and not OAL.
 
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...first run...

Ruger RPR is pretty good for the price. Burn out the barrel and decide where you want to go next. Then, either upgrade to something more custom or drop some coin into swapping the barrel, trigger, etc on the RPR. It's addicting as the upgrade path is straightforward.

No problems having run out to 1K on the one I have (not the prettiest thing and a heavy bastard, though).
 
I recently went with a Tikka CTR 24" SS barrel instead of a Ruger or Savage. I did not break the bank on this and it shoots very well, the action is so smooth it is almost like a custom. You should check them out.
I recently added a Patriot Valley Arms Jetblast brake and it cuts recoil more than half and got me better groups. The Factory stock is ok for an $1100 rifle, if you don't need stainless you can get it less than a grand easy. I am impressed with Tikka so much I would not hesitate to buy another. I won my first center fire egg shoot at 300 yards with it a couple months ago.
 
I considered that as well but I wanted a stainless barrel and I was not sure of the folding stocking being firm enough as I do benchrest shooting and can't accept any slack in the stock. Add a KRG Bravo stock to the CTR, and it's still less money. The TAC A1 is a cool gun though and if I were to pick between that and the Ruger, I'd go Tikka for sure.
 
You just pointed out something that I didn't even think of. I currently have a Rock River Arms LAR8, which is their 308 version. I just looked at RRA's site and they offer a 6.5 CM upper that fits on the LAR8. Interesting. I may have to look into that more.

I'm assuming you've been running rifles without a muzzle brake. Is that correct?


Now you're talkin...

I built a 6.5 CM AR with a Ballistic Advantage heavy taper 20" stainless barrel and a JP BCG and used a JP high pressure bolt. Lower is an Anderson, IIRC, with a Geissele trigger. Luth AR buttstock works well for bench shooting as well as anything else. Fun build and an easy sub .6 MOA. I've shot sub .3 MOA with it but not consistently yet. When the big boy range was still open at Granby this rifle was a lot of fun on the plates out to 1000 yards. No brake- I built it that way because I thought there might be a F-Tactical class requiring 20" or shorter barrel and no brake. I bought a 24" Criterion on a good sale, and will use a brake on that. Last time I shot it was in 7 degree weather. Average group size for the day was a little over .5"

If you go this route, I highly suggest the JP BCG and high pressure bolt. Barrel and the rest per your preference. By the way, my build started with a group buy NES logo ejection port cover. Hell, once I had that it would have been a shame to not complete the rifle...
 
not looking to ignite the .308 vs 6.5 debate but I've been more than pleased with 308 beyond 600 yards. if i could routinely shoot past 800 i would be all over the 6.5. a decent 6.5 rifle inside 500 yards is just boring.

if i were getting into 6.5 CM my choice would be a bolt action that uses AICS mags. given my positive experience with the Bergara LRP elite in 308, i would be sticking with Bergara. It's an optimized 700 action. It's what Remington should be making if they didn't have their head so far up their own muzzle. there was a Bergara B-14 in 6.5 CM here in the classifieds. looks nice. The Tikka T3 rifles are also cool but I would make sure the mags are available. some of their models the mags are unobtainium.

if you want a cheap rifle that will shoot accurate, the answer is Savage hands down. the Ruger Precision looks nice but i woudl budget another like $800 for an aftermarket barrel since the ruger barrel is...well...a ruger barrel.

--
6.5 in semi auto platform is an interesting idea although since the purpose of the cartridge is long range i would stick to a bolt action since one can devote more weight to the barrel (where it helps) and not waste on pistons, BCGs, buffers, etc. Springfield M1A in 6.5 - uhh what's the point? a stock M1A loaded in 308 is not accurate. Maybe 2 MOA ish. Why bother in 6.5? i would want something more accurate and easier to "accurize". the M1A is a toughie. the AR 308 platform in 6.5 are solid. but again you're probably going to want an adjustable gas block (I use the SLR rifleworks) and by the time the rifle is as accurate as I'd want, I could have had a bolt gun for far cheaper.

now if you already have a 308 lower and want to pick up a 6.5 CM upper that's a different story than starting from scratch. the 6.5 likes a longer barrel than 308 so would keep that in the build plans too.
 
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I've never reloaded anything before and am getting 0.54" mean 3-shot groups with the 140gr ELDs, after tinkering only with charge and not OAL.

Is that at 100 yards? Have you gone out to 2, 3, 5, or 800 yards or more and what sort of accuracy are you getting?

My range here goes out to 500 yards with steel plates at varying intervals
 
... i woudl budget another like $800 for an aftermarket barrel since the ruger barrel is...well...a ruger barrel.....

Ok ,more info. It is hammer forged which I'm not a particular fan of. But, it seems to work stock.

And, 800 for a barrel swap seems to be a bit high unless you are talking carbon fiber wrapped or using a smith.
 
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Add a KRG Bravo stock to the CTR, and it's still less money. The TAC A1 is a cool gun though and if I were to pick between that and the Ruger, I'd go Tikka for sure.

That's what I did; the Bravo is a nice chassis, is downright light as chassis systems go, and doesn't break the bank.

Is that at 100 yards? Have you gone out to 2, 3, 5, or 800 yards or more and what sort of accuracy are you getting?

My range here goes out to 500 yards with steel plates at varying intervals

Yeah, that's 100 yards, where I have detailed metrics from load development. I've not taken it beyond 300 yet, but at 300 it's generally slightly-more-than 1/2 MOA. I wouldn't expect different performance at distance to be anything other than my shooting getting worse, since the 140s should be stable out beyond 1000. The weak point in the system is me.
 
I've got a first generation RPR. I was pleased with its original configuration but I made some changes over time that I'm even more pleased with.I changed out the barrel to a Bartlein 26" barrel from Patriot Valley Arms with their jet blast muzzle brake on it. I changed out the handguard to a Seekins Precision. I put in the Timney RPR trigger and some other small changes too. The RPR allows you to use just about anything that you like from an AR on it. When the barrel is shot out you can change it out. You can use a Magpul PRS stock or other stocks. There is a good aftermarket for it. You can use AICS mags in it and other mags. If you'd like to get together you're welcome to give mine a try. I paid just under a $1000 for mine and I've seen the 2nd generation for fairly close to that. In the Cabela's sales flyer they have one for sale but it says 3rd generation and is priced at $1399.99. Cabela's also has the Bergara B-14 HMR Hunting/Match bolt action rifle for $999.99. A Savage 10T-SR Tactical Bolt Action rifle for $549.99 They end this coming Sunday except the Bergara which is in next weeks flyer too.
 
not looking to ignite the .308 vs 6.5 debate but I've been more than pleased with 308 beyond 600 yards. if i could routinely shoot past 800 i would be all over the 6.5. a decent 6.5 rifle inside 500 yards is just boring.
.

Totally true, but advantages to 6.5 are:

1. Less recoil
2. Better performance past 800.

I don't routinely shoot that long, but at one point I posted pictures of 168gr SMKs making sideways holes in a target at 1000. I knew I wanted a 6.5 at that point, even if realistically I'm going to shoot PRS maybe once a year.
 
not looking to ignite the .308 vs 6.5 debate but I've been more than pleased with 308 beyond 600 yards. if i could routinely shoot past 800 i would be all over the 6.5. a decent 6.5 rifle inside 500 yards is just boring.

if i were getting into 6.5 CM my choice would be a bolt action that uses AICS mags. given my positive experience with the Bergara LRP elite in 308, i would be sticking with Bergara. It's an optimized 700 action. It's what Remington should be making if they didn't have their head so far up their own muzzle. there was a Bergara B-14 in 6.5 CM here in the classifieds. looks nice. The Tikka T3 rifles are also cool but I would make sure the mags are available. some of their models the mags are unobtainium.

if you want a cheap rifle that will shoot accurate, the answer is Savage hands down. the Ruger Precision looks nice but i woudl budget another like $800 for an aftermarket barrel since the ruger barrel is...well...a ruger barrel.

--
6.5 in semi auto platform is an interesting idea although since the purpose of the cartridge is long range i would stick to a bolt action since one can devote more weight to the barrel (where it helps) and not waste on pistons, BCGs, buffers, etc. Springfield M1A in 6.5 - uhh what's the point? a stock M1A loaded in 308 is not accurate. Maybe 2 MOA ish. Why bother in 6.5? i would want something more accurate and easier to "accurize". the M1A is a toughie. the AR 308 platform in 6.5 are solid. but again you're probably going to want an adjustable gas block (I use the SLR rifleworks) and by the time the rifle is as accurate as I'd want, I could have had a bolt gun for far cheaper.

now if you already have a 308 lower and want to pick up a 6.5 CM upper that's a different story than starting from scratch. the 6.5 likes a longer barrel than 308 so would keep that in the build plans too.


If I went bolt gun, I'd really like the Bergara or the Savage 10-GRS.

I don't really 'get' the M1A in 6.5 CM, but certainly a 1 MOA rifle could be built in this configuration. Yeah, probably going to be expen$ive to get below 1 MOA but not that difficult to get below 1.5 MOA. On the M14 forum, one of the guys shot a target with 9 shots in one ragged hole with 1 flyer about an inch away- edit, with iron sights! Guys are shooting 1" groups with scoped M1A's in McMillan stocks.

In the AR platform, spend some $ on the barrel and bolt combo and an excellent trigger and it's not difficult to get below 1 MOA. Everything else just delivers the ammo and holds it all together. Small word of caution- the recoil is not heavy at all but it's much more than .223 and enough to cause one to shoot doubles with a very light trigger pull + you don't have it shouldered securely.
 
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I got to shoot the Savage 10BA Stealth this weekend.

Beautiful rifle, buttery smooth action, just a joy to shoot.

We were only at 500 yards, but was still satisfying to hear the "bongggggg" when we hit the gong.
 
You just pointed out something that I didn't even think of. I currently have a Rock River Arms LAR8, which is their 308 version. I just looked at RRA's site and they offer a 6.5 CM upper that fits on the LAR8. Interesting. I may have to look into that more.

I'm assuming you've been running rifles without a muzzle brake. Is that correct?

I have a Lantac Dragon on the LR308/6.5 upper. Nothing on the Remi 700, although i put a cheap Radical Firearms Nada brake on my T/C Compass 30.06 and for a cheapy, that brake works awesome. Was considering threading the Remi barrel to put one of those on. Mind you recoil is basically negligible on this caliber, but on the Remi i want to keep the glass on the deer (VT hunting) when they start running so i want all the muzzle movement gone.

Final words of wisdom, if you will shoot this caliber regularly at 500+, go with barrel length to keep the velocity up. That's where it shines.
 
This thread got me looking into 6.5CM gas gun barrels and I am contemplating slapping something together.

Final words of wisdom, if you will shoot this caliber regularly at 500+, go with barrel length to keep the velocity up. That's where it shines.

I am not being a snarky internet dick, I am genuinely curious, is it velocity, or is it the bullet design (high ballistic coefficient or something?) where this cartridge shines? Clearly I am not a long range ninja, but it looks like the difference in barrel length doesn't really drop the velocity that much. According to this, the difference between a 22" barrel (as long as I think I would go on a gas gun) and an 18" barrel is about 100fps at the muzzle for 2 loads tested. Is 100fps really that important to this cartridge?

6.5 Creedmoor- Effect of Barrel Length on Velocity: Cutting up a Creedmoor!

In fact, comparing it to the same experiment done with a 147 grain 308, the 142 grain 6.5CM is actually slower.

https://rifleshooter.com/2014/12/30...ato-barrel-length-versus-velocity-28-to-16-5/

Since I have a can and don't really like shooting rifles with out them anymore, I would suppress this gun, and a super long barrel with a can is annoying and unwieldy.
 

Right, so it's more about the bullet's you can use then it is necessarily about velocity it achieves. After the reading I have been doing since this thread was started, I am coming around to this cartridge and considering shorter barrels then I originally thought were required for this cartridge. No way would I run a 24"+ barrel on an AR receiver, now I just need to nerd out on some numbers and decide if 100fps is really worth the extra 4" of barrel length with a 22"er.
 
Right, so it's more about the bullet's you can use then it is necessarily about velocity it achieves. After the reading I have been doing since this thread was started, I am coming around to this cartridge and considering shorter barrels then I originally thought were required for this cartridge. No way would I run a 24"+ barrel on an AR receiver, now I just need to nerd out on some numbers and decide if 100fps is really worth the extra 4" of barrel length with a 22"er.
Yes, it allows you to use higher BC bullets and still maintain good velocity in a short action. That extra 100 fps might make a difference depending on the distance you're shooting in keeping the bullet from going subsonic but overall not a major concern.
 
This thread got me looking into 6.5CM gas gun barrels and I am contemplating slapping something together.



I am not being a snarky internet dick, I am genuinely curious, is it velocity, or is it the bullet design (high ballistic coefficient or something?) where this cartridge shines? Clearly I am not a long range ninja, but it looks like the difference in barrel length doesn't really drop the velocity that much. According to this, the difference between a 22" barrel (as long as I think I would go on a gas gun) and an 18" barrel is about 100fps at the muzzle for 2 loads tested. Is 100fps really that important to this cartridge?

6.5 Creedmoor- Effect of Barrel Length on Velocity: Cutting up a Creedmoor!

In fact, comparing it to the same experiment done with a 147 grain 308, the 142 grain 6.5CM is actually slower.

https://rifleshooter.com/2014/12/30...ato-barrel-length-versus-velocity-28-to-16-5/

Since I have a can and don't really like shooting rifles with out them anymore, I would suppress this gun, and a super long barrel with a can is annoying and unwieldy.

I was referencing the Remi 700 being a 24" barrel which would give better velocity results over say an 18" AR-10 barrel. The point was go as long as it is comfortable for you to do so. Just a general reference to longer range shooting and less drop.
 
I’ve posted about this before, but one more result from another rifle I took on first range trip today. Last month I purchased a Remington 700 rifle with Varmint barrel from Cabela’s in 6.5 CM for $399 on sale. Before shooting it replaced trigger with Timney #510. ($115) and dropped it in a Boyd’s prairie hunter laminate stock ($115?). Set trigger at 2.5#. Rifle is neither pillared nor bedded. Checked barrel and it was free of contact with stock. I’m into rifle / stock/ trigger for $630.

Went into parts box and used aluminum weaver two piece base, millet 1” rings and mounted an inexpensive Tasco target scope ($89 range). Set it at 14X.

I had a partial box of Hornady Match 147 ELD. Four shots to zero it left me enough for two five shot groups. First group was .82 inch.

Second group was .98 inch including the third shot I called low and left. The other four shots were touching .46 inch

Between my brother and I this is sixth time in two + years we have used formula

Remington 700 + Timney 510 + laminated stock = sub 1” group at 100 yards.

So that’s my favorite platform. Add a better scope and it will get you out to 1000 yards. It will not get you competitive at PRS matches. It lacks a threaded barrel for a brake to help recoil recovery and to see your impacts. It does not have ability to take a detachable mag. It does not have adjustable stock. But if you are not into PRS it’s a lot of rifle for the money.

I do like detachable mags so on two of mine I ordered the laminate stocks in BDL format. Then ordered bottom metal to take AICS mags ($140 delivered from PTG). You have to inlet the stock to accept the bottom metal and pillar stock with pillars that come with bottom metal, but it’s been 100% reliable feeding. Level of difficulty about the same as a 80% lower build.
 
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