Work bench plans critique

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So, I've been thinking of building a bench for about a month now, and have been toying with some design ideas. I built one in google sketchup, any suggestions are welcome, both structural suggestions and general style. Better to measure twice if you will.

The pics:
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Thanks for looking.
 

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On your right side view: The 2x4 going left to right just under the bench top:

The wood will want to crack if you nail or screw that close to the end of the 2x4.

You might make this better by mitering the top boards at 45 degrees instead of the butt joint.
That will give you more overhang left and right.
 
On your right side view: The 2x4 going left to right just under the bench top:

The wood will want to crack if you nail or screw that close to the end of the 2x4.

You might make this better by mitering the top boards at 45 degrees instead of the butt joint.
That will give you more overhang left and right.

Hrm, ok to be clear the issue would be with coming in to the side (but near the end), not going directly into the end, which occurs in a few other places.

Anyone know if home depot will miter lumber? I know they will cut to length... trying to avoid purchasing more tools than I need since I'm in an apartment for now.
 
- maybe make it so you can disassemble it in the future if you move
- old or mis-cut "solid" doors make for cheap table tops if you can locate one, otherwise I've used 4x4s as vertical and cross supports then capped with 1/2" plywood then put hardboard on top or a rubber vinyl see http://www.mcmaster.com/#runner-mats/=2pw2w5
- people often put the vise on the corner of a workbench so you can swivel it 90 degrees.
- for bench legs I just purchase them:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#bench-legs/=2pw0im
 
I prefer to not have shelves down below, but rather up top. With shelves below, I cant pull right up and sit with my legs under every part of the workbench, just part of it.....
 
You are going to trip and hit your toes on the 2X4's you have on the flat projecting out in front of the legs.
 
Try to have some clearance on the bottom to slide a milk crate/rubbermaid bins in/out - about 13" +/- Or go with no shelf and use 5 gal buckets. Or "half an half"

The shelf should have similar clearance too - basic plans look good

If this is a garage bench consider 2 vises in line - one on each end - use a 2x4 or similar to mark the holes and final alignment.

Build the top of the bench with the thickest plywood you can - 3/4" is best - tops really take a beating - use joist hangers for additional support as needed.
 
Put the computer off of the floor so that dirt isn't drawn into the computer or swept into the computer. Better to have it elevated with a cutout immediately infront of the air intake so that there's no where for dust to settle immediately infront of the air intake.

Elevate the computer display to head height so that it's clear of the work surface and at a better reading height.

The middle may not be the optimal placement for a vise as it will present an obstacle: long work pieces have to clear the vise to make it onto the table.
 
Thanks for the advice so far, looks like I have some things to consider tweaking. I actually like the premade stuff from mcmaster now that I've seen it, might be easier to bring with me when I move as well.

The current top dimensions are 8' by 30"(-2 from the backsplash), thats about all the space I have. I placed the vice in that model near the center due to the potential likelihood that the edge of the bench will either be up to a wall or possibly a safe or cabinet. I'll probably try another go at this later in the week, and maybe a mcmaster alternative.
 
Thanks for the advice so far, looks like I have some things to consider tweaking. I actually like the premade stuff from mcmaster now that I've seen it, might be easier to bring with me when I move as well.

The current top dimensions are 8' by 30"(-2 from the backsplash), thats about all the space I have. I placed the vice in that model near the center due to the potential likelihood that the edge of the bench will either be up to a wall or possibly a safe or cabinet. I'll probably try another go at this later in the week, and maybe a mcmaster alternative.

Grainger.com has them too if you really want to avoid the shipping but I can't say enough good things about McMaster-Carr. I built a couple benches using them and the place I work now has hundreds of them with the nice maple tops. Also, you can do some searching on ebay and www.labx.com and even craigslist.org you might just luck out and get a good deal on the legs, tops, or even the matching cabinets. If you have a truck and some ambition there are a few used resellers on labx.com that have warehouses in Mass and they have an ungodly amount of benches. They don't always list them by piece but if you call or drove to them with a truck you could probably strike a cash and carry deal.
 
I think the bench looks fine, but lose the computer, that goes on another bench away from fluids and metal filings etc.

Anchor it to the floor and wall.
 
Heres an updated version... the idea here is that the top and rear stringers can be bolted onto the leg assembles, and therefore the whole thing taken apart. Items more for scaling than definite positioning.

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I split mine as a matter of simplicity to reconfigure when I need to.

My reloading bench with locking cabinets for powder and factory loads on one end. Though not shown, the doors have peg boards and shelfs on the outside for more containers and small tools, brushes, whatever. There is another panel on top for primers. The platform the little Lee loader is on has holes bored into it to accept the other loaders and the platform itself gets bolted to the top. That way the surface itself has only 4 small holes.:

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My workbench for cleaning, repairs, scope mounting, etc. It's on lockable, ballbearing casters so I can join it with the reloader or just move it for convinence. The rods slide into tubing under the top surface. The block on the top left locks itself into the spray can drop and is used as a knife sharping base for Lansky sharpeners. It is removable.

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I think the rest is self explanitory.
 
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I split mine as a matter of simplicity to reconfigure when I need to.

My reloading bench with locking cabinets for powder and factory loads on one end. Though not shown, the doors have peg boards and shelfs on the outside for more containers and small tools, brushes, whatever. There is another panel on top for primers. The platform the little Lee loader is on has holes bored into it to accept the other loaders and the platform itself gets bolted to the top. That way the surface itself has only 4 small holes.:

reloading.jpg


My workbench for cleaning, repairs, scope mounting, etc. It's on lockable, ballbearing casters so I can join it with the reloader or just move it for convinence. The rods slide into tubing under the top surface. The block on the top left locks itself into the spray can drop and is used as a knife sharping base for Lansky sharpeners. It is removable.

Workbench.jpg


I think the rest is self explanitory.

Very nice set up!! Did you do these from scratch or do you have drawings for them?
 
Very nice set up!! Did you do these from scratch or do you have drawings for them?

No plans, I just picture something in my head that I'd like to build and start from there. They each took about a month or so as I only have after work and some weekend time to spend on projects. They are completley finished so they can free stand in the center of a room if need be. The backs have latin inscriptions in raised wood lettering.
 
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I split mine as a matter of simplicity to reconfigure when I need to.

My reloading bench with locking cabinets for powder and factory loads on one end. Though not shown, the doors have peg boards and shelfs on the outside for more containers and small tools, brushes, whatever. There is another panel on top for primers. The platform the little Lee loader is on has holes bored into it to accept the other loaders and the platform itself gets bolted to the top. That way the surface itself has only 4 small holes.:

reloading.jpg


My workbench for cleaning, repairs, scope mounting, etc. It's on lockable, ballbearing casters so I can join it with the reloader or just move it for convinence. The rods slide into tubing under the top surface. The block on the top left locks itself into the spray can drop and is used as a knife sharping base for Lansky sharpeners. It is removable.

Workbench.jpg


I think the rest is self explanitory.

Quite impressive!!!
 
Yesterday was a long day, I think I spent more time in homedepot yesterday than the rest of my life combined....

I got my parts and with the help of my lovely assistant managed to build this thing, it came out great. I decided to forego bolts (after buying them of course), screws are temporary enough I think. Now I need to see if I can return them and a few other things and get some money towards a vice.

Here are some pics, sorry for the horrible quality, I need to buy a camera that isn't my cellphone.

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Looks great!

Another thing you can do with the vice is get some small clamps and just clamp it down when and where you need it. Otherwise if you're using the bench for all sorts of projects the vice can get in the way. Likewise you can try it out before you blow some holes in your new baby!
 
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