What did you do in the reloading room recently?

andrew1220 said:
I'll check it out thanks. The OAL in the Hornady manual for their 55 FMJs seams short but as mac1911 mentioned to me, the bullets are short and fat compared to other 55s. I did make some dummy rounds as long as 2.22" and they seem to chamber okay as far as I could tell. But used the length in the Hornady manual (2.20")
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I realize I had the wrong trim numbers above on case length. I meant I trim to 1.740".

On load length even with those Hornady 55gr (which I use exclusively for that weight and for normal training) I'm loading them to 2.250. It's barely a diameter of insertion, but I've had no issues and excellent results. Sub MOA with IMR4320.
 
I'll have to make up some loads at the longer length. Those are some nice groups for bulk 55s! I hope I can get decent results with H335. At 120 yards if I can get 1-2" groups that would be awesome but not a big deal if they don't. As long as they shoot better than wolf gold that cost 15 cents more per round, I'll be happy. I like how H335 meters, let's hope it's accurate enough.
 
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I've never used H335, but I'm pretty sure nearly any commercial powder will produce great groups assuming your barrel is a decent quality. I'm using a 1:7 16" Noveske.

If you shoot those three groups and you don't get a constant POI, do one load higher and one lower. Watch for primer cratering on those higher loads and mind the primer you develop the load with. I prefer to build loads with CCI400 because they are softer and flow before a military primer would. Once I can drag my nail across a primer and catch it on a crater lip around the strike, you know you've gotten to the sketchy zone, where pierced primers are the next thing you'll see. So don't go higher than that, back down.

Almost all my high accuracy loads are right in the 0.5g zone before cratering appears.
 
xtry51 said:
I've never used H335, but I'm pretty sure nearly any commercial powder will produce great groups assuming your barrel is a decent quality. I'm using a 1:7 16" Noveske.

If you shoot those three groups and you don't get a constant POI, do one load higher and one lower. Watch for primer cratering on those higher loads and mind the primer you develop the load with. I prefer to build loads with CCI400 because they are softer and flow before a military primer would. Once I can drag my nail across a primer and catch it on a crater lip around the strike, you know you've gotten to the sketchy zone, where pierced primers are the next thing you'll see. So don't go higher than that, back down.

Almost all my high accuracy loads are right in the 0.5g zone before cratering appears.
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Yeah mine is a midstate firearms upper. Only cost me $350 shipped but it's a stainless 16" 1/8 with Midwest industries rail. Seems like good quality so far. I'm hoping I can get out to the range and remember to bring paper targets to see how it groups.

Ill keep a close eye on the primers. I'm also using CCI SR primers. Max according to Hodgdon is 25.3 grains.

On an unrelated note, is $70/1000 shipped of once fired lake city brass a good price? Add $10 to have it already cleaned. Seems like a fair price?
 
It's a good price. You should get at least 5 loads out of it even if it's super hot. If you load on the lower end, about 10% below primer flow or more, you should get 7 or more. If you don't anneal case necks, you'll see neck cracks before any other fatigue failures most of the time. If you anneal necks, the primer pockets will loosen over time until they won't hold a primer.

Please note I'm only refereeing to 223/556 here and in my above posts, not all of this applies to other calibers.
 
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xtry51 said:
It's a good price. You should get at least 5 loads out of it even if it's super hot. If you load on the lower end, about 10% below primer flow or more, you should get 7 or more. If you don't anneal case necks, you'll see neck cracks before any other fatigue failures most of the time. If you anneal necks, the primer pockets will loosen over time until they won't hold a primer.

Please note I'm only refereeing to 223/556 here and in my above posts, not all of this applies to other calibers.
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Okay cool. Dumb question, can I use the .223 load data in lake city 5.56 cases? I'm assuming the answer is yes but not sure. The Hornady manual doesn't even have 55 gr data for 5.56 I noticed.

I was reading a reloading thread on the 1911 forums and a guy mentioned that he gets his .223 brass processed for $35/1000 including return shipping. Says once it's processed it shouldn't need to be trimmed again. Thought that was interesting for some people who may not have the time or patience [laugh]
 
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andrew1220 said:
Okay cool. Dumb question, can I use the .223 load data in lake city 5.56 cases? I'm assuming the answer is yes but not sure. The Hornady manual doesn't even have 55 gr data for 5.56 I noticed.

I was reading a reloading thread on the 1911 forums and a guy mentioned that he gets his .223 brass processed for $35/1000 including return shipping. Says once it's processed it shouldn't need to be trimmed again. Thought that was interesting for some people who may not have the time or patience [laugh]
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You can go on line and see 5.56 load data on nosler and Accurate Arms powders. AA has the largest 5.56NATO data I know of. .35/1000 processed brass doesn't seem right? Might as well buy new.
 
Finally finished removing the crimp from the primer pockets on 250 pieces of brass. Brass prep for .223 sucks huh?[laugh]
I didn't have to remove the crimp from HXP 30-06 brass. Primers went in fine. Good thing of course is that it only needs to be done once lol.
 
7aacf7d21fcb082120fd0b94ab2e132f.jpg

Here is my new addition. A birthday gift from the inlaws. I love it.
 
andrew1220 said:
Finally finished removing the crimp from the primer pockets on 250 pieces of brass. Brass prep for .223 sucks huh?[laugh]
I didn't have to remove the crimp from HXP 30-06 brass. Primers went in fine. Good thing of course is that it only needs to be done once lol.
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Which is why I treat my once reloaded brass like gold!! I've got a few K of once fired and the same amount of once reloaded.
 
For mec 9000 users im using a 27 bushing 17.2 grains with the 700x powder waa12? Wads, AA hulls recipe calls for 17.0 is 17.2 ok?2 3/4, 1 1/8wads. Of you know of a better or more cost effective recipe coud you share? 700x i find pricey also win 209 primers 1,000 32.99$
45$ for a bag of #7 shot small durlap sack (white)
9.99$ 500 wads
I want to say the 700x was 45$ ill have to double check

Previous owner modified the holding tanks (cut tops, bigger powder tank with baffle nice mod)
Press cost me $258 plus tax from shooting supply marks prices are usually very good just curious if there is a cheaper alternative recipe wise.
 
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familyman15 said:
For mec 9000 users im using a 27 bushing 17.2 grains with the 700x powder waa12? Wads, AA hulls recipe calls for 17.0 is 17.2 ok?2 3/4, 1 1/8wads. Of you know of a better or more cost effective recipe coud you share? 700x i find pricey also win 209 primers 1,000 32.99$
45$ for a bag of #7 shot small durlap sack (white)
9.99$ 500 wads
I want to say the 700x was 45$ ill have to double check

Previous owner modified the holding tanks (cut tops, bigger powder tank with baffle nice mod)
Press cost me $258 plus tax from shooting supply marks prices are usually very good just curious if there is a cheaper alternative recipe wise.
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Generally speaking, you can't save money loading 12GA, but if it gets you a shell you like better than promotional loads then go for it.

PROMO tends to be the bargain powder, the last 8lb bottle I bought was $115. You need to buy in bulk to get decent pricing. I use Claybuster wads at half the price of Winchester. Buy Winchester 209 primers 5000 at a time and search high and low for cheap lead.

I will only load 12GA when I have lead at $25/bag or less. My $36 lead is reserved for 28GA and .410
 
Thank you, i have claybuster wads clearish white color. Wa112 replacements those are the ones i got for 9.99$ 500
He currently has shot on sale for 34.99$ its assorted 7-9
Just for reference whats the best price you've seen for the 5,000 w209's
 
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loaded a few rounds for my birthday present. A Colt New Service in .455. I used a bullet for the Ruger Old Army and .45 Colt dies. I'm working on getting the correct bullet mold and dies but I was too impatient to wait. The gun is about 100 years old and it still put 6 of my crappy loads into one big hole. I can't wait to see what it can do with good ammo.
 
gerrycaruso said:
loaded a few rounds for my birthday present. A Colt New Service in .455. I used a bullet for the Ruger Old Army and .45 Colt dies. I'm working on getting the correct bullet mold and dies but I was too impatient to wait. The gun is about 100 years old and it still put 6 of my crappy loads into one big hole. I can't wait to see what it can do with good ammo.
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gerrycaruso: seems as though your ammo is plenty good!

Darn, only one piece of empty .32-40 brass, but I reloaded it just the same...
 
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andrew1220 said:
I'll have to make up some loads at the longer length. Those are some nice groups for bulk 55s! I hope I can get decent results with H335. At 120 yards if I can get 1-2" groups that would be awesome but not a big deal if they don't. As long as they shoot better than wolf gold that cost 15 cents more per round, I'll be happy. I like how H335 meters, let's hope it's accurate enough.
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Well I had today off and was able to sneak out to the range during the rain.
Anyway, so here is 24 gr of H335 at 2.20". Two 3 shot groups (no distinct groups I know). Didn't shoot all that well.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1450497435.621896.jpg
24.5 gr:
View attachment 153780
Better groups now. Two 3 shot groups on either side of my finger.
25 gr:
View attachment 153781
Had two shots that were almost touching - not bad.
Then I shot the last two rounds of 24.5 gr and got this group here which looks promising. Mind you I'm using a $40 Barska scope and this is just resting the rifle on a sandbag. I know I can improve my trigger control and breathing. I think I need to play around with loads between 24.5 - 25 gr to see if there's a sweet spot. Also should try some longer OAL's. Lastly I realized I was using federal and wolf brass which varied quite a bit with the trim length. I'd like to try shooting all the same headstamp brass thats all been trimmed.
View attachment 153783

FWIW, the wolf gold .223 shoots pretty well for cheap 30 cent ammo.
View attachment 153782

I realize I'm kidding myself trying to chase group sizes when I'm using an 8 cent FMJ bullet. I'm sure a nice 69 or 77 gr BTHP bullet would shoot very well but I'm not shooting matches. If it can shoot as good or better than wolf gold, I'll be happy.
 
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FYI, if I shoot a string of new loads, I first run a mag (30) of known ammo that my gun is zeroed with through the gun to warm the barrel up. Not a mag dump. Even spaced slow shots, like one every two breathes, 5sec or so between shots. I usually do this on a target to get a rough group and it serves as a zero check. Then I shoot my reloads.

- - - Updated - - -

Try loading 10 each of 24.5, 24.8 and 25.1. Then shoot slow fire groups.
 
xtry51 said:
FYI, if I shoot a string of new loads, I first run a mag (30) of known ammo that my gun is zeroed with through the gun to warm the barrel up. Not a mag dump. Even spaced slow shots, like one every two breathes, 5sec or so between shots. I usually do this on a target to get a rough group and it serves as a zero check. Then I shoot my reloads.

- - - Updated - - -

Try loading 10 each of 24.5, 24.8 and 25.1. Then shoot slow fire groups.
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I shot 10 rounds of wolf prior to shooting to warm up the barrel but not at a target which was silly not to. That's a good procedure you do, makes sense.

Okay I'll try making those loads in .3 gr increments tomorrow. I also trimmed a bunch of brass tonight so I'm curious what effect the consistent brass length will have on accuracy.

Thoughts on OAL? Think it might be beneficial to load longer? Worth a shot of course. Thanks again for the tips!
 
Also made up some more light 357 mag loads using 4 gr of bullseye under a "zombie coated" 158 gr. SWC. Very pleasant to shoot and accurate.
 

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