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Training a gun dog...
- Thread starter Lamina
- Start date
I'm not a dog trainer (fiencee is though, including S&R, Explosive and Police training)
From what I understand, the most important thing is to, as early as possible, get the dog to associate sharp sounds with something good. Tapping, banging and eventually droping metal food dishes. - A hollow metal ball IN a metal food dish that the dog will eat around will make a racket while the dog eats and he'll associate such sounds with good.
Next, outside, drop hard treats into a metal food dish and rattle it around, then let him eat the treat.
A Cap gun or .22 Short starter pistol fired about 30-50 feet away is a good place to start with actual gun shots. Sit next to the puppy while someone fires, while you pet and praise the dog. Immediately after each shot, give him a small treat.
Slowly move closer and closer until the dog doesn't react to you firing the starter pistol right next to him. Then start with larger calibers, again, start at 50 feet and slowly move closer.
If you're not looking for a hunting dog, you may want to teach the dog to "Heel" to your side when he hears a gun-shot. That will ensure that if you need to defend yourself, he gets right to your side and sticks with you.
From what I understand, the most important thing is to, as early as possible, get the dog to associate sharp sounds with something good. Tapping, banging and eventually droping metal food dishes. - A hollow metal ball IN a metal food dish that the dog will eat around will make a racket while the dog eats and he'll associate such sounds with good.
Next, outside, drop hard treats into a metal food dish and rattle it around, then let him eat the treat.
A Cap gun or .22 Short starter pistol fired about 30-50 feet away is a good place to start with actual gun shots. Sit next to the puppy while someone fires, while you pet and praise the dog. Immediately after each shot, give him a small treat.
Slowly move closer and closer until the dog doesn't react to you firing the starter pistol right next to him. Then start with larger calibers, again, start at 50 feet and slowly move closer.
If you're not looking for a hunting dog, you may want to teach the dog to "Heel" to your side when he hears a gun-shot. That will ensure that if you need to defend yourself, he gets right to your side and sticks with you.
I got my black lab (Moses) from a rescue; I didn't know if he would hunt but I took him to the trap range to see if he was noise skittish. We stated about 50’ away and worked at getting closer; he was fine never flinched. I took to a WMA on a Sunday to see if he could pick up the scent, he didn’t. He squatted to go the bathroom and put up a hen pheasant and watched as she flew away. I figured from that episode he had never hunted. The best thing I did was take him hunting with a guy who had two black labs. Moses watched and sniffed and figured it out. The next week we went hunting again and Moses put up a rooster. A friend of mine bagged it. Moses has been a great hunting dog ever since, he can’t wait for hunting season. Good luck with your dog.
One of the smartest, nicest dogs I ever had was a 'cockapoo'. She was about 25 lbs and a fantastic dog, except as she got older, she became afraid of loud noises.
When I was building my house, she would run into the next room and shivver while I was using my airpowered brad nailer while I was building the mantles on my fireplaces.
During a thunder storm, she would be no where to be found. We found her one day, in the bath tub, hiding behind the shower curtain, shivvering.
She was a light 'buff' color (hence her name, Buffy) and during thunderstorms she took to 'hiding' in one of our fireplaces ! Needless to say, when we would get her out of the fireplace, she wasn't buff colored any more.
When I was building my house, she would run into the next room and shivver while I was using my airpowered brad nailer while I was building the mantles on my fireplaces.
During a thunder storm, she would be no where to be found. We found her one day, in the bath tub, hiding behind the shower curtain, shivvering.
She was a light 'buff' color (hence her name, Buffy) and during thunderstorms she took to 'hiding' in one of our fireplaces ! Needless to say, when we would get her out of the fireplace, she wasn't buff colored any more.
Get one of Richard Wolters books "Gun Dog", "Game Dog", "Water Dog", or "Family Dog". You should be able to find one of them used for pretty cheap money. I used his book to train my past 2 dogs. All these books use pretty much the same technique so. Biggest point to remember is, as soon as the dog recogonises it's name around 9 weeks, that is the time to start teaching. When the dog is 12-16 weeks, his brain is wired to learn and whatever the dog learns during this time will be "hard-wired" for life. I taught my 4 year old Lab using Richard Wolters method and it could be months between periods when I actually put her on the leash, but one firm command to heal and a flick on the leash and she is right in step in the heal position as we walk. I can't emphasize enough how important it is to train the dog early and regularly. Some used to think you should wait six months for obedience school, but that is nonsense. Everyone enjoys a well behaved dog so try to take at least :20 minutes in the morning and evening to regularly train your dog. You will reap the rewards for years to come. Good luck!
