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The brown truck stopped at my house today !
- Thread starter Twigg
- Start date
That line through the number is called a line out. Its where they took a part that wasn't originally numbered to that rifle and renumbered the new part to match. Its hard to find any Mosins that have all original parts after a re-arsenal process, and 90% of the Mosins around have been re-arsenaled before being put away for future use.
I see the bayonet, which btw is uspide down in the pic, its meant to be on the rifle so the sights are still visible. I'm guessing you got a sling and cleaning kit along with the rifle. Inside the cleaning kit is a small key shaped tool. Thats used for checking the firing pin protrusion. Too much firing pin sticking out and you can rupture primers, too little and you may not get a primer to fire. After re-assembling your bolt you'll want to check it using the gauge on the tool, its easier than it sounds and surplusrifle.com has all the info you need on how to do it along with rifle and bolt take down.
Some of these 91/30s that have come in lately are actually ex Dragoon rifles, some of the finest Russian Mosins ever made. They're identified by markings and mostly by an early date like this one.
That triangle with the number 1 in it on the receiver shown means it was used by the Germans for a while after WW2. Another rarity in today's Mosin Nagants, but again, these rifles are coming in and the sellers often don't know what they have for markings so they sell them at the same price as all the others. I wouldn't be surprised if a few Finn captured Mosins are out there mixed in with every day 91/30s. Look at the markings on your receiver and do some research on Mosin nagant sites. Its fun finding out where your rifle was made and where it went through its existence.![[grin]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/041.gif "Grin [grin]")
As for the stock, stay away from harsh chemicals and steam when cleaning it. The Mosin shellac finish is sometimes fragile especialy if its flaking in some spots. If it is flaking, you can touch it up with amber shellace thinned with denatured alcohol. Just apply in small dabs with a rag and rub it on and let dry, it belnds in so well that you can't see where it was damaged or flaking. Orange Glo works well on most stocks including Mosins for cleaning and shining them up.
I see the bayonet, which btw is uspide down in the pic, its meant to be on the rifle so the sights are still visible. I'm guessing you got a sling and cleaning kit along with the rifle. Inside the cleaning kit is a small key shaped tool. Thats used for checking the firing pin protrusion. Too much firing pin sticking out and you can rupture primers, too little and you may not get a primer to fire. After re-assembling your bolt you'll want to check it using the gauge on the tool, its easier than it sounds and surplusrifle.com has all the info you need on how to do it along with rifle and bolt take down.
Some of these 91/30s that have come in lately are actually ex Dragoon rifles, some of the finest Russian Mosins ever made. They're identified by markings and mostly by an early date like this one.
That triangle with the number 1 in it on the receiver shown means it was used by the Germans for a while after WW2. Another rarity in today's Mosin Nagants, but again, these rifles are coming in and the sellers often don't know what they have for markings so they sell them at the same price as all the others. I wouldn't be surprised if a few Finn captured Mosins are out there mixed in with every day 91/30s. Look at the markings on your receiver and do some research on Mosin nagant sites. Its fun finding out where your rifle was made and where it went through its existence.
As for the stock, stay away from harsh chemicals and steam when cleaning it. The Mosin shellac finish is sometimes fragile especialy if its flaking in some spots. If it is flaking, you can touch it up with amber shellace thinned with denatured alcohol. Just apply in small dabs with a rag and rub it on and let dry, it belnds in so well that you can't see where it was damaged or flaking. Orange Glo works well on most stocks including Mosins for cleaning and shining them up.
Twigg
NES Member
I went and took another look. Yup. Wishful thinking on my part about the numbers, but the bolt does match the receiver. I guess the excitement got to me. ![[thinking]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/010.gif "Thinking [thinking]")
It is in rather good shape though.![[smile]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/001.gif "Smile [smile]")
Yes, I did get a sling, a two compartment ammo pouch, an oil bottle and a small tool kit. I see what you mean about the bayonet. Geeze, all I had to do was twist it a bit.
My cheap camera isn't good enough to capture the markings clearly. I'll be looking the markings up. There is a 1941 clearly stamped, along with MK1148. the Izhevsk arsenal mark, a crest with a hammer & sickle and a small plain rectangle on the top of the receiver. There's some other stampings on the sides of the receiver but the're covered with gobs of cosmoline.
I'm going to name her Ivana, as in Ivana nother one !
It is in rather good shape though. Yes, I did get a sling, a two compartment ammo pouch, an oil bottle and a small tool kit. I see what you mean about the bayonet. Geeze, all I had to do was twist it a bit.
My cheap camera isn't good enough to capture the markings clearly. I'll be looking the markings up. There is a 1941 clearly stamped, along with MK1148. the Izhevsk arsenal mark, a crest with a hammer & sickle and a small plain rectangle on the top of the receiver. There's some other stampings on the sides of the receiver but the're covered with gobs of cosmoline.
I'm going to name her Ivana, as in Ivana nother one !
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![[rofl2]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/035.gif "ROFL2 [rofl2]")
That's a great name!
D
daceman63
If I was interested in acquiring one of these, what could I expect to pay?...ballpark...
USMA-82
NES Member
OOOOPS! Not supposed to reveal our sources, because the evil AG will swoop down and try to screw them!
Moderator, moderator - where art thou?
By the way, laminated stock versions can be had from several sources for under $100, and are BEAUTIFUL!
Moderator, moderator - where art thou?
By the way, laminated stock versions can be had from several sources for under $100, and are BEAUTIFUL!
D
daceman63
I dislocated my shoulder and cracked three ribs and I was just watching some guy shoot one of these...lol..jk..it was a much shorter version though. I spoke to him briefly and he said it hurts to shoot. He said the first time he shot it he didn't have the shoulder pad....he has it now and says it's much better. I think it was the concussion after the shot that makes me want one....lol.
D
daceman63
thank you for the price info....
M44's and M38's are carbines, and have an awful muzzle flash and horrible recoil. The M44 has an integral bayonet, and when removed, WILL throw your zero way off to the side.
I recommend a 91/30 or a Finn for your first Mosin.
I recommend a 91/30 or a Finn for your first Mosin.
D
daceman63
I will have one when my license gets here....or at least i will start to look for one...
The M44 has the attached bayonet. The M38 doesn't. An M44 isn't a problem, if you like shooting with the bayonet attached (and preferably extended). Re-read the part about massive zero change (more than the sights will adjust for).
OK, I was going to go with the 91/30 just because it doesn't have an attached bayonet. That's the one thing about my SKS I'd like to change, so a Mosin without one would be a big plus. I also think the 91/30's I've handled were far from being heavy, awkward guns, so I'll probably buy one of those.
On another point, can you negotiate something with the dealer to increase the chances that the gun you get has "historical" value -- ie saw action in WW2? A particular s/n range to ask for or something? Not necessary, but it would add to the intrigue.
Damn, I'd send off for one if I didn't just do a $100 order to Midway yesterday. Soon though. Soon....
On another point, can you negotiate something with the dealer to increase the chances that the gun you get has "historical" value -- ie saw action in WW2? A particular s/n range to ask for or something? Not necessary, but it would add to the intrigue.
Damn, I'd send off for one if I didn't just do a $100 order to Midway yesterday. Soon though. Soon....
Do your homework at the Mosin Nagant websites. If you want a listing of them, go to AKFiles.com and check out the Mosin Section. Yes, that's me that had them start the Mosin area. I suggest you purchasing a hex receiver, if you're looking for something that's been used in combat. That or a Finn, especially a Finn earlier than an M39, like an M24, M28 or M28/30 for example. Also, the top Sniper of all time used an M28 Mosin Nagant, with IRON SIGHTS to get his 500+ kills.
If its carbine length and accuracy you want, I hear the 91/59s are the best and are still available from some sources for a decent price. 91/59s are cut down 91/30s with the rear site ground on the sides to be used with a carbine length rifle. These are probably the definite last Mosin Nagant made.
If you are set on getting a 91/30, ask for one with an early date. The machining will likely be better. Mosins made around war time are notorious for having rough machining which can sometimes lead to Mosin sticky bolt syndrome. This is when the bolt becomes hard to open after firing a few rounds often resulting in having to smack it open with the palm of your hand.
Then like mentioned theres the Finn M39s that are widely available but are getting higher in price with the lower end models at about $175. But the Finns new a thing or two about shooting and these are great rifles. Definitely the most accurate out of all my Mosins.
For me though no matter how many Mosins I shoot, I still get better accuracy from my Mauser type rifles, especially the Turks. Turk Mausers are so cheap and so much fun, they are definitely the best buy going today in milsurp rifles.
If you are set on getting a 91/30, ask for one with an early date. The machining will likely be better. Mosins made around war time are notorious for having rough machining which can sometimes lead to Mosin sticky bolt syndrome. This is when the bolt becomes hard to open after firing a few rounds often resulting in having to smack it open with the palm of your hand.
Then like mentioned theres the Finn M39s that are widely available but are getting higher in price with the lower end models at about $175. But the Finns new a thing or two about shooting and these are great rifles. Definitely the most accurate out of all my Mosins.
For me though no matter how many Mosins I shoot, I still get better accuracy from my Mauser type rifles, especially the Turks. Turk Mausers are so cheap and so much fun, they are definitely the best buy going today in milsurp rifles.
Nickle said:
Simo did get a good number of kills with a PPSH style sub machine gun but its true he did use open sights and is in my book one of the best marskmans of all time. Here some info for those who are wondering who you're talking about and with a little Mosin info too.
http://www.kevos4.com/Simo_Hayha.htm
tele_mark said:
Not if you want to come close to winning. Hi-Power is a whole different issue these days. Also remember that Finnland has a lot of woods, so Simo Hayha didn't make too many long shots. He used to shoot ducks with a rifle for a living, IIRC.
Hello from Maine,
I recently aquired a rearsenalled 1929 M91/30.
It has flaking shellac and I found this thread via Google while looking for a solution.
What ratio do you mix the amber shellac and denatured alcohol?
Also, after I touch up the flaking spots, should I add a coat all around with this mixture? or straight shellac?
I really don't know a thing about shellac, only oil and poly.
Thank you,
Craig
Shellac dries fast, very fast. You can mix it 50/50 and just run it in very lightly with a clean rag, but you have to work fast. After it dries fopr about 30 minutes, I usually buff the area with 00 steel wool and then with a clean dry rag.
Theres no harm in giving the rifle a quick coat, but shellac is dificult to work with in large areas, thats why I like it for spot repairs.
Try it on a bare piece of wood first to get a fee for how it dries.
Theres no harm in giving the rifle a quick coat, but shellac is dificult to work with in large areas, thats why I like it for spot repairs.
Try it on a bare piece of wood first to get a fee for how it dries.
![[angry]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/008.gif "Angry [angry]")
