STORE YOUR GAS NOW

GM-GUY

GM-GUY

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With prices set to increase I thought I would pass on some info:

If you store the gas now (93 octane is best to store long term) the mixture is full winter grade - highest amount of volatiles added to aid starting in the cold. The increases the storage time, even on the crappy ethanol stuff. Use a good stabilizer - I use Amsoil but when I run out of that I'll change to the new Sta-bil Marine Grade.

Keep it sealed and in a temperature moderate area (NOT INSIDE YOUR GARAGE/HOUSE) like a shed not one of those storage lockers in the sun that bake the inside contents.

Then next year (God willing) you can use the stored stuff (cars seem pretty tolerant) and restock with fresh winter grade.
 
The key to long term gas storage is to use metal containers for storage. Even the best quality plastic will breathe and you will lose your light ends. I use NATO cans and PriG and have had zero issues. I have had no problems with either summer or winter blend stored this way even after 2 years. One other thing is to rotate often. I dont do it enough. We all buy gasoline probably weekly for our vehicles. There is no reason to not rotate your gas every couple of months or even monthly. If you do that then you will have no issues. If, like me, you let it sit for a year then if TSHTF you are already starting with gasoline that is a year old. With my long term gasoline use plan I can make my stored gas last approx 3 years. That means that gas could be 4 yrs old before I use it.
 
Im a little low on storage, but Ill get by.

attachment.php
 
heard on the way home that oil dropped in price, the Saudi's have agreed

to make up any shortfalls caused by Libya or anyone else.... Also the Kadafi

(sp)s had been shot and was dead... >?????////
 
JimB said:
heard on the way home that oil dropped in price, the Saudi's have agreed

to make up any shortfalls caused by Libya or anyone else.... Also the Kadafi

(sp)s had been shot and was dead... >?????////
Click to expand...

I read this on the Drudge Report. Don't know if Kadafi is shot but the price of oil did go down two bucks.
 
Yup, and tomorrow is regional protest day when everyone goes to the mosque and gets the marching orders. Iraq has them scheduled and Saudi Arabia is next - how are they going to make up the shortfall when all the foreigners leave (like in Libya) that run the oil fields.

Dalton "It will get worse before it gets better"
 
Dang, thats real short notice, I need to get cleaning my rifles.
Are we going to carpool or do we need to find our own way to Iraq ?

GM-GUY said:
Yup, and tomorrow is regional protest day when everyone goes to the mosque and gets the marching orders. Iraq has them scheduled and Saudi Arabia is next - how are they going to make up the shortfall when all the foreigners leave (like in Libya) that run the oil fields.

Dalton "It will get worse before it gets better"
Click to expand...
 
killer127 said:
I need to set somthing up for the wife and I..Even if its 20G at the home it would help..Right now I just try fillup at 3/4 or 1/2 at worrse
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20G is relatively painless. Get 4 NATO + PRI-G and you are GTG. Do not be cheap – do not buy CARB, or plastic, or US Mil vintage. Scepter Mil spec is ok, but IMHO, NATO is better. Both, Scepter and NATO jerry cans are pricy, but necessary. Finding new NATO below $50 is tricky and used go for $30+. Also, pay attention to the neck. E.g. there is a seller on eBay that sells old unused can with oversized oddly positioned neck. I imagine it would be difficult to find a spout and replacement gaskets for those cans.
 
I found several sources for the so called good NATO gas cans, there is a swiss can here as well.

Here are some Swiss 5 gallon Jerry cans.
http://www.deutscheoptik.com/product_info.php?cPath=3&products_id=2169

NATO Jerry style Gas cans, 4 for 196.00
http://www.deutscheoptik.com/product_info.php?products_id=1718


ETA: article about modifying the vent hole on a std jerry can so it can vent.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f37/jerry-can-mod-screw-epa-1025877/



OPM said:
20G is relatively painless. Get 4 NATO + PRI-G and you are GTG. Do not be cheap – do not buy CARB, or plastic, or US Mil vintage. Scepter Mil spec is ok, but IMHO, NATO is better. Both, Scepter and NATO jerry cans are pricy, but necessary. Finding new NATO below $50 is tricky and used go for $30+. Also, pay attention to the neck. E.g. there is a seller on eBay that sells old unused can with oversized oddly positioned neck. I imagine it would be difficult to find a spout and replacement gaskets for those cans.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
Yes, Deutsche Optik is one of the sources, but as I said $50 new, $30+ old. I actually prefer http://www.swissarmyvehicles.com/showdetails.php?cat=surplus&partno=SAV1100U for used Swiss, and http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/GJC20.cfm for new. But no matter where you order, supply is sketchy/limited, prices are high and most will give you a hard time if you are from CARB state. One can also order these directly from Europe, but if you are willing to deal with overseas, you might as well order from Israel. Those are highest quality cans anywhere.
 
In some recent PMs the topic of different cans came up so I thought it would be useful to post a part of my reply here. There are primarily three types of 20L cans worth talking about. 1) Wehrmachtskanister (aka “NATO” or “Wedco”), 2 USGI steel (aka “Blitz”) and 3) USGI plastic (aka “Scepter” or “MFC”).

Of course German canister is what started it all. The rest are literally inferior copies. Many historians say Blitzkrieg would not be possible without the jerry can. Germans did their best to keep it a secret, kind of like Soviets with AK-47. EE has a reasonably nice write up on can’s history (http://www.expeditionexchange.com/wedco/). It is a shame that EPA is messing with this awesome design. Kind of like MA AG with Glock.[sad2]

There are two main differences between NATO and Blitz. Blitz has rolled seems and NATO has welded seams. This could lead Blitz to leaks especially if the can is dropped or hit by a branch, badly vibrated on a hard off-road trail, or just old and rusty. However, the bigger design difference is the neck and the cap. Blitz is a screw in and NATO is press in. That means that NATO always gives a positive seal and much less susceptible to internal versus external pressure difference. Blitz on the other hand could be difficult or even impossible to open if the pressure difference is too great and some of them sometimes leak. Bottom line IMHO there is no contest between NATO and Blitz. I only buy NATO.

Scepter is currently our military issued can. It is unquestionably far superior to Blitz. And some would argue that it is even superior to NATO. I however still prefer NATO. The main advantage of Scepter is also its disadvantage. It is made from plastic, so it does not rust or ever leak at the seams. However, unlike metal, plastic expands and contracts with changes in temperature/pressure and it is vulnerable to UV. Do not be misled, they are not made from some cheap plastic, so UV will not destroy them over a few years. They will unquestionably less for many decades, but no one knows how many. On the flipside, there are some WWII cans still in use today. Also, no matter how good the plastic is, it is more porous than metal. Scepter is a screw in design, but with a healthy gasket it does not leak. However, even so, nothing says closed like sliding the closing lever on the NATO can. Size wise Scepter is lighter but larger. If you have limited space, NATO is the king. If you are loading an airplane, Scepter might be the way to go. Choosing between these two is tough, but my choice is NATO. [wink]

Some more info about all three cans here http://www.survivalmonkey.com/portable-fuel-storage.html
And about Scepter here http://www.pangaea-expeditions.com/scepter/index.html

Note that NATO is made by many countries and over 70+ years there have been many minor design differences. E.g. minor differences in handle shape, neck position, neck style, closing pin design, thickness of coating, etc. To avoid potential headaches, I recommend to buy the same cans and get extra gaskets and spout. If you are buying used and want to restore them because you like the DIY projects, I recommend Damon RED-KOTE for the inside (http://damonq.com/TechSheets/Red-Kote.pdf) and the Line-X for the outside (http://www.linex.com/xtra_6.shtml).
 
I bought a 26 gallon Aluminum marine grade fuel tank (pulled from a boat) off Craigslist for $125. I pulled the fittings and plugged them and shortened the fill neck to reduce the amount of air in the tank.

I figure it's cheaper than other metal can options (Northern Tool has a 15gallon for $115) and with a shaker siphon and the tank on one end of my work bench I can fill smaller cans as needed.

I'll have that topped off today and fully stabilized.
 
GM-GUY said:
I bought a 26 gallon Aluminum marine grade fuel tank (pulled from a boat) off Craigslist for $125. I pulled the fittings and plugged them and shortened the fill neck to reduce the amount of air in the tank.

I figure it's cheaper than other metal can options (Northern Tool has a 15gallon for $115) and with a shaker siphon and the tank on one end of my work bench I can fill smaller cans as needed.

I'll have that topped off today and fully stabilized.
Click to expand...

Nice idea!
 
Bringing this one back for an update:

The Marine/Boat Fuel Tank WORKS GREAT !!!! I stored it from last year until the past two weeks, I used up the 26 gallons and it ran fine in my truck (2011 GMC) - no hickups, burps or otherwise. I may not have had as good a fuel mileage or I might be imagining things - truck sat this weekend and fired right up this morning no issues.

The past summer the only thing I did to the tank was to crack the cap on hot days and let out the last of the air - then when I opened it two weeks ago it was under vacuum.

It's mid January - rotate your storage. I'm looking for another tank ;) this is the best idea yet.
 
GM-GUY said:
Bringing this one back for an update:

The Marine/Boat Fuel Tank WORKS GREAT !!!! I stored it from last year until the past two weeks, I used up the 26 gallons and it ran fine in my truck (2011 GMC) - no hickups, burps or otherwise. I may not have had as good a fuel mileage or I might be imagining things - truck sat this weekend and fired right up this morning no issues.

The past summer the only thing I did to the tank was to crack the cap on hot days and let out the last of the air - then when I opened it two weeks ago it was under vacuum.

It's mid January - rotate your storage. I'm looking for another tank ;) this is the best idea yet.
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How much money did you save?
 
iirc - the fuel I bought (as I got the tank in March) was $2.89 for 93 octane - plus what I bought in Jan and put in what I had that was $3.29.

Maybe $15-$20, and the tank set me back $125 iirc.

So I'm looking at a 5-6 year payback.
 
Dont store gas to save money or ride out a shortage. Unless you have the ability to store hundreds of gallons it isnt worth the time or effort. You will have better results practicing fuel conservation. Car pool, combine trips etc. Store gas for when there isnt any to be had or for a real emergency. I keep about 35-40 gallons stored. That is to run my gennie, chainsaw and tillers for probably about 2 years if I am careful. That provides me water, heat and food. With what is in my cars I can probably add another year to that if it doesnt go bad.
 
Exactly what mine is stored for coastie. I have a gas generator that will run the fridge/freezers and some other stuff - not the well pump; I also have a tiller that will be used with all those non-hybrid seeds in the freezer.

My big generator is a PTO for my diesel tractor - I keep 60 gallons of diesel on hand at least - but need to top off soon. I use my old 80 gallon transfer tank from the bed of my old pickup I traded.

I can justify the cost of the tank with the rotating of the fuel yearly.
 
coastie said:
Dont store gas to save money or ride out a shortage. Unless you have the ability to store hundreds of gallons it isnt worth the time or effort. You will have better results practicing fuel conservation. Car pool, combine trips etc. Store gas for when there isnt any to be had or for a real emergency. I keep about 35-40 gallons stored. That is to run my gennie, chainsaw and tillers for probably about 2 years if I am careful. That provides me water, heat and food. With what is in my cars I can probably add another year to that if it doesnt go bad.
Click to expand...

Agree completely. Large scale storage also has potential problems with spill containment should something go wrong. Thirty to fifty gallons in 5 gal cans is much more practical, safer and easier to handle and rotate.
Keep the stuff out of your house too. Its not only illegal to store more than a quart in the house in MA, its downright stupid to do so.
 
GM-GUY said:
Exactly what mine is stored for coastie. I have a gas generator that will run the fridge/freezers and some other stuff - not the well pump; I also have a tiller that will be used with all those non-hybrid seeds in the freezer.

My big generator is a PTO for my diesel tractor - I keep 60 gallons of diesel on hand at least - but need to top off soon. I use my old 80 gallon transfer tank from the bed of my old pickup I traded.

I can justify the cost of the tank with the rotating of the fuel yearly.
Click to expand...

If your house is heated with HHO than you have all that to use in a diesel as well. I am knocking around converting one of my tillers to diesel as it will need a new engine soon.
 
Guess what my Oil Burner Tech is doing on my next service - installing a drain tap on the bottom of my tank. My next major purchase for the Tractor (Kubota BX2360) is a rear-mount tiller, not that it's on the radar yet - but next time I need a new tiller.

Diesel engines are great - just make sure it's electric start, the compression is very high and they are very heavy so you may need to add weights depending on where it's mounted on the frame.
 
GM-GUY said:
iirc - the fuel I bought (as I got the tank in March) was $2.89 for 93 octane - plus what I bought in Jan and put in what I had that was $3.29.

Maybe $15-$20, and the tank set me back $125 iirc.

So I'm looking at a 5-6 year payback.
Click to expand...

I have 50 gallons stored onsite and rotate it annually in the winter, so I am in no way questioning the idea of storing fuel, but how do you figure you save money? Lets say I bought 5gal for $3. So I spent $15. A year later, when I rotate my fuel, the gas is $4. So 5 gal would cost me $20, but I use old fuel, which cost me $15. Great for me! I just saved $5. But what do I do next? I pay $20 to refill my can. So the savings does not occur until you stop storing, which might be 30-50 years or never. The price at the time you stop storing minus the price of the original fuel is your savings. So lets say 30y later I stop and the price is $8. I would save $5 per gallon or $250. But I paid $20 for each of my cans or $200. Lets say the have useful life of 30 with $0 maintenance cost (highly unlikely). I use PRI-G. $30 treats about 500 gallons or 10 years in my example or $3 per year. Thus, in my example you lose 0.6% each year. Sure, they might be a scenario where even after accounting for the cost of your time, replacement cans/gaskets, fuel needed to get fuel, etc., you would end up breaking even or with tinny profit, but realistically speaking – we are losing money by storing fuel.

Sorry , if I ruined your mood, but the 5-6 year payback is false. Storing fuel is a responsible thing to do to add options in case of emergency, but doing so usually costs money rather than saves money. And I am fine with that.
 

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