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Sight Adjustment
- Thread starter NeverMiss
- Start date
gerrycaruso
NES Member
I don't think you have any windage adjustment in that rear sight. I'm not familiar with that model. Is the front sight a fixed post? If it's in a dovetail, it can be tapped left or right.
On the front sight, to adjust windage move the sight in the opposite direction that you want to move the point of impact. For instance, if your shots are hitting left of where you're aiming, you'll want to move the front sight to the left, which will move your point of impact right.
You can try and loosen the rear sight some of them have slightly slotted holes for a tad of adjustment.
The front sight should drift. Some are very tight. Also some are designed to go one way usually in from the right out to the left.
I use pencil to make a reference mark on the sight and barrel. It does not take much to move the impact.
How far is it from rear sight notch to rear of front sight.
How far is it of on windage and at what distance.
The front sight should drift. Some are very tight. Also some are designed to go one way usually in from the right out to the left.
I use pencil to make a reference mark on the sight and barrel. It does not take much to move the impact.
How far is it from rear sight notch to rear of front sight.
How far is it of on windage and at what distance.
The other option is to file the side of the rear sight. Figure out the ratio of the sight radius versus distance and file twice the width.
( you are changing the centerline of the rear sight ) For example, say you have a sight radius of 24" and you are "off" to the right 3" at 100 yards. That means for every .005" you change the centerline, you will shift impact .75". [( 100 x 3 x12 =3600 inches divided by 24" = 150 to 1 ) x .005" = .75"] So in this case, to change centerline by .020" you would file .040" off the left side of your rear sight. Obviously you can't correct huge errors. Before you do something like that make sure your rear sight blade is perpendicular to the bore. It might be a good idea to have others shoot it to see if they are "off" the same way and distance.
( you are changing the centerline of the rear sight ) For example, say you have a sight radius of 24" and you are "off" to the right 3" at 100 yards. That means for every .005" you change the centerline, you will shift impact .75". [( 100 x 3 x12 =3600 inches divided by 24" = 150 to 1 ) x .005" = .75"] So in this case, to change centerline by .020" you would file .040" off the left side of your rear sight. Obviously you can't correct huge errors. Before you do something like that make sure your rear sight blade is perpendicular to the bore. It might be a good idea to have others shoot it to see if they are "off" the same way and distance.
I hardly doubt it's welded. Unless done after it left the factory. The targetsmaster from remington as far as I know never had a welded or soldered dove tail. Back in those days that was the only way to zero your rifle by drifting the front sight unless you had the fancy receiver target sights. Even still you would drift front sight to zero windbag.
Place the barrel in a padded vice and give it a tap with a brass punch and small hammer.
Sweeney
NES Member
Nothing in that photo would even hint at it being welded. It's a dovetail interference fit. It will move.
