Semi going full auto?

Finally, and most importantly.........this is probably the best time to say that you should NEVER EVER load a pistol or rifle that you've torn down and reassembled unless you can guarantee that you won't cause a slamfire in your home and you can't guarantee that. A slamfire in your home, my friend, would be VERY BAD. Never load a semi-auto rifle/pistol in your home and let the bolt go home. Imagine what the results would be. A soft primer and a stogey pin is all you need to be in the papers the next day. Even your carry pistol should be range tested before you reload your mag. This may seem to be a bit conservative but let me tell you this........all it takes is one time for you to have an AD or ND in your house and trust me when I tell you that it will be a shorts-changing event. I have two carry pieces. One is a semi, one a revolver. When I detail my semi, I carry the revolver until I get the semi to the range.

Rome


So I shoot my gun at the range, go home and clean it, drive back to the range to test fire it to make sure I assembled it correctly. [rolleyes]

How am I suppose to load a semi-auto if I don't let the bolt/slide drop?
 
I almost had this happen when re-assembling a detail-stripped 1911. For whatever reason, the firing pin stop jammed the pin in a forward (but not protruding) position, and dropping the slide on a loaded round made a dimple in the primer. This failure was basically not visible beforehand, as it was just a matter of a millimeter or so, and did not cause a function check to fail.

Gun was pointed in a safe direction, but 7 203gr +P rounds on full-auto would have been a really nasty surprise. I will no longer administrative reload a gun I've detail-stripped until I've proven it with live rounds on a range.

speaking of this...my service m-4 would leave a small dimple in the primer when chambering a round from the mag..charging the it after the mag was in. or if i put the mag in with the bolt open and hitting the bolt release. it didnt matter it would still leave the mark. i checked it out with others from my platoon and their guns were doing the same..i have noticed the same thing with my M&p15..
 
speaking of this...my service m-4 would leave a small dimple in the primer when chambering a round from the mag..charging the it after the mag was in. or if i put the mag in with the bolt open and hitting the bolt release. it didnt matter it would still leave the mark. i checked it out with others from my platoon and their guns were doing the same..i have noticed the same thing with my M&p15..

It's normal in an AR-15. It's not in a 1911.
 
I'm not trying to be anal here. I'm just trying to share my experiences after over a decade of handling firearms. They will bite you at the slightest lapse of jugement. Trust me.

Rome
 
So I shoot my gun at the range, go home and clean it, drive back to the range to test fire it to make sure I assembled it correctly. [rolleyes]

How am I suppose to load a semi-auto if I don't let the bolt/slide drop?

I think he was referring to when one does more then just a standard field stripping to clean a firearm. I thought he mentioned detailing at some point.

How far apart can you take it and be 100% sure you can put it back together properly. I can field strip every firearms I own and am 100% sure how to put it back together properly. And of course one must always follow proper safety procedures and if someone doesn’t know what that is then maybe they shouldn’t be playing with these things. And I am sure that we all know what we are doing it's those other people that I worry about.
 
I'm trying to understand the concerns here. I have detail stripped my M1911s. I don't do it often. Maybe once per year. It is relatively easy to function check them after putting them back together.

1) lock the slide open and verify that there is no magazine in the mag well and no round in the chamber.

2) Repeat #1.

3) Are you really sure it is unloaded?

4) Close the slide. Grip the gun and put the safety on. Pull the trigger. Did the hammer fall? If so, stop and get the gun to a gunsmith.

5) With your finger off the trigger, lower the safety. Did the hammer fall? If so, stop and get the gun to a gunsmith.

6) Without depressing the grip safety, pull the trigger. Did the hammer fall? If so, stop and get the gun to a gunsmith.

7) Check the disconnector as follows. Grip the gun, and pull the trigger. Hold the trigger to the rear. While holding the trigger to the rear, retract the slide fully and let it go. Did the hammer fall? If so, then the disconnector isn't working -- you know the drill by now, stop and get the gun to a gunsmith. Release the trigger. You should hear a distinct click when hammer and sear reengage. Pull the trigger -- the hammer should fall. If the hammer follows the slide, that is one way that a gun can go full auto, so this check helps you catch that problem.

8) Put a pencil or pen down the barrel. Retract the hammer and pull the trigger. The pencil or pen should shoot through the air.

I'm not a gunsmith, and I'm sure there are more extensive tests that could be performed. But I think this procedure will expose many possible flaws.

Note, the disconnector check can be done with most semi-autos that have hammers. The pencil check can also be used to verify that decockers are working -- in that case, the pencil should not move when you use the decocker.
 
Just spotted this on another board.


http://www.bushmaster.com/pdf/ACR-Web-Notification.pdf

Bushmaster Firearms Intentional, LLC has become aware of a possible firearms performance issue that may develop with a small number of ACR rifles and we are requesting you discontinue the use of this rifle immediately, and contact us at your earliest convenience so that we can make the necessary arrangements to have the rifle returned to us for inspection and update if necessary.
All Bushmaster produced ACR rifles are impacted by this notification.
During routine testing, Bushmaster discovered a design flaw which could result in multiple rounds firing continuously when the trigger is pulled. This unexpected firing of multiple rounds creates a potentially dangerous situation.
Since the safety and quality of our firearms is our utmost concern, Bushmaster is implementing the following corrective action plans to correct the effected firearms as quickly as possible.
Therefore, we are requesting your timely assistance with the following action:
1) Please immediately discontinue the use of your ACR rifle(s).
2) Contact our Customer Service Department at 1-800-883-6229, (Monday-Friday, 8:30 AM -6:00 PM EST).
Please have the serial # of your firearms(s) available when you call.
3) We will provide you with return shipping instructions and issue you a RMA # (Return Authorization Number).
This will assist us in processing, and updating of your firearm and returning to you as expeditiously as possible.
The shipping address for the return of your firearm is listed below
Please contact us prior to shipping
Bushmaster Firearms International, LLC
Attention: Dept. ACR 999 Roosevelt Trail
Windham, ME 04062
[email protected]
4) This process will be accomplished at no cost to you and will be completed as expeditiously as possible.
We apologize for any inconvenience this may cause you, and we will return your firearm to you as expeditiously as possible.
If you have any further questions concerning this request, please call us on the above noted toll free number between the hours of 8:30 AM and 6:00 PM Eastern Standard Time.
Thank you for in advance for your cooperation in resolving this important matter.
Sincerely,
Customer Service Division
Bushmaster Firearms Intemational, LLC
 
I was at a shoot in NY where an AR (POF w/ a Timney Trigger) went to full auto - at least the remaining rounds (about 20ish) were discharged in a second and the gun was immediately ejected. The trigger was sent back to Timney and replaced with a new one. Not sure on the exact weight but I believe it was 3lbs.
 
I saw it happen with a Para 1911 [insert model here]. It had JUST come back from a trigger job and ooops!
 
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