Scope recommendations for .308

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I don't know a lot about scopes so I am asking the brain trust here for some advice. I have a new rifle on the way. Impulse Predator | American-Made Straight-Pull Rifle | Savage Arms. It will be chambered in .308. It doesn't come with any sights but it does have a rail to mount an optic. What I do know about scopes is there is a ton of options out there. I don't mind spending money on good gear but I'm not going to spend money just to say I spent it. Realistically I'll probably be shooting 200yards max with this. It is what my club has for a range. If the opportunity to go further comes along it would be great if the scope worked for that too.

This rifle also has a threaded barrel. Some sort of muzzle device might be on order depending on how it shoots.

I'm a few weeks out from having my hands on this gun so we have some time to figure all this out.

What do those in the know say?

Thanks
 
Vortex Viper.

There’s a few iterations and different magnification ranges, but out to 200 yds.
3-15 should be good. You may find 2-10 lacking and 5-25 in the same price range will come with more drawbacks. You didn’t list a price range but this typically $900-$1000 which is a sweet spot for bang for buck scopes.


The Viper HST line drops you to the $600 range and they’re still great scopes.
 
I always start with a basic Vortex scope and work my way up. Good glass and value especially if you’re staying at 200 yards max.

For example, I have a vortex 6-18 44mm with a simple dead hold BDC reticle and it’s good for 95% of my shooting. It cost me about $250. I swap it on a few rifles.

And you can only go up for here, depending on what features you want. For example if you want a scope better at lower light situations, better glass, first focal plane, better reticle, etc you can start climbing into the $1000 range

 
You may find 2-10 lacking and 5-25 in the same price range will come with more drawbacks.

What are the drawbacks of higher magnification? I have heard that scopes preform best in the middle of their range. So even if using it from 3-15 most often, wouldn’t a 5-25 preform better than using a 3-15 maxes out? Genuinely curious as I am also looking for an optic with higher magnification.

Been looking at Arken for myself.

 
What are the thread dimensions on the barrel? I’ve used American Precision Arms (APA) and Area419 brakes and they both perform well, but they are loud.

As for glass, I think my glass costs more than my rifles. I am thinking of selling a couple of Vortex Razor Gen II 4.5-27 scopes. MIL reticles if you’re interested.
 
Having just gone through this process, figure out if you want FFP or SFP, MOA or MIL, then other features you want, and use the Eurooptic or OpticsPlanet search feature to see what’s available and find out what strikes your fancy. Set a budget and plan on going over it.

200 yards? You can get almost anything.
 
You didn’t indicate your price range so price wise you could be all over the scale. A lot of choices. I prefer FFP and MIL for my scope just for consistency across them. I own Vortex, Leopold and Nightforce and to be honest they are all great and I haven’t had any problems with any of them. I’m a firm believer of buy once, cry once. Not a fan of buy what you can now and upgrade later. Waste of money to me. You really can’t go wrong with any of the three I listed.
 
Having just gone through this process, figure out if you want FFP or SFP, MOA or MIL, then other features you want, and use the Eurooptic or OpticsPlanet search feature to see what’s available and find out what strikes your fancy. Set a budget and plan on going over it.

200 yards? You can get almost anything.

I don't know what FFP or SFP, MOA, or MIL is. That's why I'm here. I know what they stand for but I don't know the affect they have, particularly FFP or SFP. I am working on learning but my current experience is limited. Anything firearm related I've pretty much done on my own the last few years.

You didn’t indicate your price range so price wise you could be all over the scale. A lot of choices. I prefer FFP and MIL for my scope just for consistency across them. I own Vortex, Leopold and Nightforce and to be honest they are all great and I haven’t had any problems with any of them. I’m a firm believer of buy once, cry once. Not a fan of buy what you can now and upgrade later. Waste of money to me. You really can’t go wrong with any of the three I listed.

I didn't indicate a price range because I don't really have one. Clearly to most I can get for the least amount of money would be great. If I had to put a money range in I think probably around $1000. Less would be better but more wouldn't be out of the question. I would just like to know the reason I would be spending more besides "it's better". Why is it better. Kind of how I've always approached everything.

The Vortex listed in the first reply is what I am leaning to right now. They are 15% off at Basspro and I have some gift cards. They claim the 5-25x available in Foxboro.

I have a few weeks, maybe a month before I have my hands on the rifle. Things can change by then.

What are the thread dimensions on the barrel? I’ve used American Precision Arms (APA) and Area419 brakes and they both perform well, but they are loud.

As for glass, I think my glass costs more than my rifles. I am thinking of selling a couple of Vortex Razor Gen II 4.5-27 scopes. MIL reticles if you’re interested.

The thread pitch is 5/8x24. A lot of options out there if I need one. Loud I guess is ok as long as it isn't directing the blast at me. My AR is loud. For the shooter it is ok but it does really suck for anyone standing nearby. I'd like to avoid that if possible but it is what it is in the end.
 
I don't know what FFP or SFP, MOA, or MIL is. That's why I'm here. I know what they stand for but I don't know the affect they have, particularly FFP or SFP. I am working on learning but my current experience is limited. Anything firearm related I've pretty much done on my own the last few years.



I didn't indicate a price range because I don't really have one. Clearly to most I can get for the least amount of money would be great. If I had to put a money range in I think probably around $1000. Less would be better but more wouldn't be out of the question. I would just like to know the reason I would be spending more besides "it's better". Why is it better. Kind of how I've always approached everything.

The Vortex listed in the first reply is what I am leaning to right now. They are 15% off at Basspro and I have some gift cards. They claim the 5-25x available in Foxboro.

I have a few weeks, maybe a month before I have my hands on the rifle. Things can change by then.



The thread pitch is 5/8x24. A lot of options out there if I need one. Loud I guess is ok as long as it isn't directing the blast at me. My AR is loud. For the shooter it is ok but it does really suck for anyone standing nearby. I'd like to avoid that if possible but it is what it is in the end.
First of all, mutherf*** BassPro

Second of all, mutherf*** BassPro. Find the scope you want using the method I described then find the best deal from a reputable vendor.

First Focal Plane (FFP) or Second Focal Plane (SFP) are personal preference, as is MOA or MIL measurement systems. I personally like Leupold and Vortex at under $1k, but opinions vary. Scopes in that price range will tend to be SFP.

At 200 yards I’d be looking at something capable of 1x or 2x, but you’ll probably have a different approach with a bolt gun. I’d also want illumination.

Having just gone through this (although for an AR10 not bolt gun), I learned a lot from the below thread

 
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First Focal Plane the reticle will zoom in as you zoom in and the reticle hash marks will remain consistent with the zoom.

For my uses, it’s the only way to go

If you can up your budget to $1500 then I’ll probably be selling my Gen 2 Razors at that price.


MOA vs MIL is preference. One isn’t better than the other. Technically MOA has smaller adjustments but if you’re doing PRS or other competitions where most people are using MIL then you won’t be able to take advantage of the group knowledge.
 
I don't know a lot about scopes so I am asking the brain trust here for some advice. I have a new rifle on the way. Impulse Predator | American-Made Straight-Pull Rifle | Savage Arms. It will be chambered in .308. It doesn't come with any sights but it does have a rail to mount an optic. What I do know about scopes is there is a ton of options out there. I don't mind spending money on good gear but I'm not going to spend money just to say I spent it. Realistically I'll probably be shooting 200yards max with this. It is what my club has for a range. If the opportunity to go further comes along it would be great if the scope worked for that too.

This rifle also has a threaded barrel. Some sort of muzzle device might be on order depending on how it shoots.

I'm a few weeks out from having my hands on this gun so we have some time to figure all this out.

What do those in the know say?

Thanks
For only range fun it does not matter which scope to get.
Sounds like an insult, but it is not - because you will be shooting there usually only during ideal conditions, sun, no rain, no fog, under 200yds - so anything produced today will work fine as lenses overall are pretty good now. $200 low end vortex or $2000 nightforce will look almost same.

If you want take that rifle to a hunt, then you want probably a very lightweight scope with preset turrets- or if shooting at 300 or longer distances at range you can setup a 30 or 40 oz brick of glass with great resolution to see bullet holes, etc.

Start with a cheap basic 3-18x ffp scope and then see if that works ok or not.
 
Woah, woah woah. Are we really advocating a need to bump up to 5-25s for 200 yards?

Sure, he may go further at some point, but then he is sacrificing a possible low and end weight for the vast majority of his shooting that doesn’t need 25x. Hell, 1k yards doesn’t need 25x.

OP, is weight important to you? Do you want a low magnification low end to take advantage of the quick straight pull action in closer hunting/brush gun or other possible scenarios? What is your ideal price range?
 
I don't know a lot about scopes so I am asking the brain trust here for some advice. I have a new rifle on the way. Impulse Predator | American-Made Straight-Pull Rifle | Savage Arms. It will be chambered in .308. It doesn't come with any sights but it does have a rail to mount an optic. What I do know about scopes is there is a ton of options out there. I don't mind spending money on good gear but I'm not going to spend money just to say I spent it. Realistically I'll probably be shooting 200yards max with this. It is what my club has for a range. If the opportunity to go further comes along it would be great if the scope worked for that too.

This rifle also has a threaded barrel. Some sort of muzzle device might be on order depending on how it shoots.

I'm a few weeks out from having my hands on this gun so we have some time to figure all this out.

What do those in the know say?

Thanks
Sounds like this is all new to you. Shit, you may not even enjoy it enough to shoot the gun on the regular. 200 yards, go with a low end athlon, vortex, or even swampfox. You don't need to spend a lot of money for what you're planning on doing. Besides, cheap glass has come a long way, it's not that bad. 3-10, or 3-15 will serve you well.

Just go with mil, everyone knows moa dead.
 
What are the drawbacks of higher magnification? I have heard that scopes preform best in the middle of their range. So even if using it from 3-15 most often, wouldn’t a 5-25 preform better than using a 3-15 maxes out? Genuinely curious as I am also looking for an optic with higher magnification.

Been looking at Arken for myself.


From what I’ve seen, Increasing magnification and not price means something has to give. Clarity at zoom, weight, eye relief, etc. It will certainly magnify more, but if you can get away with a 3-15 for $1000, I can almost guarantee it’ll be a sharper experience than a 5-25 at $1000. The increased starting magnification (3 vs. 5) helps mitigate some of what I’ve just mentioned and I’m really splitting hairs here. You’re more prone to see what I’m talking about with LPVO’s than higher magnification optics. Some of my favorite optics are Holosun and Primary Arms, so I’m by no means a scope snob.
Watch a lot of C_does and write down comparisons so you have reference points. Euro Optic lets you compare multiple scopes as well.
 
Woah, woah woah. Are we really advocating a need to bump up to 5-25s for 200 yards?

Sure, he may go further at some point, but then he is sacrificing a possible low and end weight for the vast majority of his shooting that doesn’t need 25x. Hell, 1k yards doesn’t need 25x.

OP, is weight important to you? Do you want a low magnification low end to take advantage of the quick straight pull action in closer hunting/brush gun or other possible scenarios? What is your ideal price range?
Hell no! 1-6 or 1-8 will get you out to 600 on torso sized targets. However, OP has purchased a bolt gun so an LPVO probably isn’t the best fit. A 3-15 with a decent tree on a bolt gun will get you out pretty dang far.

Edit- reading comprehension. It’s a bolt gun, but it’s straight pull, and ambidextrous?!? I honestly didn’t know this existed and I want one. And I would absolutely put an LPVO on it.

OP, this gun is meant for speed (hog hunting) and accuracy. I think even a 3-15 might be too much for this. 1-8 or 2-10 seems like a sweet spot. Also, where’d you get this and what’d you pay??
 
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No, really OP, where’d you pick this up? Because the Gun Genie isn’t yielding me any results.
I don't have it yet. It has been in the works for a bit now. I'll let you know details once I have it 100% secured and otw.

As you mentioned above its ambidextrous. That is the reason I chose it. I am a left handed shooter and I wanted to get into a bolt gun without it being awkward to use.

I am learning a lot here reading the replies so far.
 
I don't have it yet. It has been in the works for a bit now. I'll let you know details once I have it 100% secured and otw.

As you mentioned above its ambidextrous. That is the reason I chose it. I am a left handed shooter and I wanted to get into a bolt gun without it being awkward to use.

I am learning a lot here reading the replies so far.
What are you planning to shoot?
Large 10-20” steel plates at 100-200 yards?
Smaller steel?
Paper?
How much precision are you looking for? You have a lot of Internet research to do about scopes. One of the most important things is the reticle. Scope shopping starts with reticle shopping.
Either way, the first scope you buy will most likely be the wrong one, but you won’t know it until after you’ve used it a few times, so go cheap the first time around.

I tend to favor Burris and Vortex scopes because of their no BS lifetime warranty. Vortex has a wider selection across almost any price range. There are other brands with lifetime warranties too.

You may also qualify for some discounts depending on your job, if you are a veteran, or an NRA Instructor, so you should also look into that.
 
I went for decades with 4.5-12x magnification second focal plane moa scope in a one inch tube ( diameter) as my most expensive scope. Out to 300 yards I never felt under scoped. I ran this on several hunting rifles ( still do). Vortex is the brand I use now that Nikon left markets a while back. These scopes did well for me out to 600 yards

It wasnt until I started going out to 1000 yards that I needed to upgrade. Then going to a larger diameter tube (30 or 34mm) for more elevation adjustment, with a 20 moa base, 5x to 25x ( usually shooting 15x to 17x in matches), first focal plane, mil instead of moa adjustments, with a zero stop all became beneficial. The vortex strike eagle does this for $600 or $700. Of course a $1500 or $2500 scope will do it better

I recently built a PRS trainer in .223, and put a sub $400 Arken scope on it that is comparable to Vortex strike Eagle. I only plan to shoot it for practice at a local range (300 yard max), but I’m going to take it out to 1000 yard range next week to see what it can do

Regarding the threaded barrel, go slow before doing anything other than thread protector. Your not shooting a super magnum with punishing recoil. It doesn’t sound like you are shooting steel and need to see missed impacts to adjust quick follow up shots. A brake will reduce felt recoil, possibly reduce muzzle movement to see impacts ( if your form is good and a few other thing). But it will also increase noise at shooter and to either side of shooter, add length to rifle possibly needing a longer rifle case, and cost $$. Except for my PRS match rifles I no longer have a muzzle brake on my bolt guns. The thread protectors don’t look tacticool, but I’m not spending $$ to be less functional

Not that I’m against muzzle brakes in all cases, but for me thay didn’t really add great value except for PRS competition. Even there until I had a rifle greater than 14 lbs did the brake really help see impacts. Now with a 20 lb rifle that is balanced, the tuned ports of my brake really makes a difference. I recently read the newer brakes are angled 90 degrees to shooter ( parallel to firing line) instead of back toward shooter to reduce noise impact on shooters while still reducing recoil etc. (like the older JP tank brake, but with four ports not one.). I will likely go that way, as the effect over 80-100 rounds in a practice or match of my current brake adds up.
 
200 yards max? That's not even close to stretching out 308. You don't need much magnification. 3-9x is more than enough and don't let anyone sell you on more. 3x for every 100 yards is sufficient. More will let you see impact better but then you're adding extra weight, size and cost for marginal gain. Spotting scopes exist for a reason if you really want to dial in on the target. The next level of magnification would be 15x, which I feel is overkill for you, but as long as you don't spend much more then it's fine.

Also, don't pay for an overbuilt, bomb proof optic. You're not dialing elevation or windage so don't worry about turrets and moa vs mil. That's money wasted for your intended purpose. There's going to be 3 to 4" of bullet drop at 200 yards with 308 so all you really need to do is hold over or use markings on your reticle if possible.

I'd recommend going Burris Fullfield E1 3-9x or 4.5-15x. They're very inexpensive at $150 or less and lightweight at less than 16 oz. Upgrade to FFP, a good mil reticle and all that fancy stuff as you need it. Check out Backfire on the tube. He's good for bolt action, cartridge and scope content. He does a great review on optics under $500.


View: https://youtu.be/qpJ10iKzG30?si=I9hd-u-4R6RAPo80


Lastly, forget the muzzle brake. You really want to piss off other shooters and increase back blast on yourself for faster follow up shots on the range? The true purpose of threaded muzzles for a bolt action is to utilize suppressors. Unless you're shooting competitions then muzzle brakes aren't necessary.
 
The MR-63 😂😂😂
lol, well that is certainly better shooting than anything I can do regardless of the rifle and scope combo I am using, so congrats.
But, that is in the barn door size category of targets and it would require an entirely different scope to hit a postage stamp at that distance.

It’s hard to choose a scope until you know what you want to do with it…
 
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