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pet garand loads

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Any suggestions on what to start reloading for an m1 garand.

What I have on hand are:

Powder: H335, Varget, H4895, Tac, RE-15, 8208 XBR
Primers: CCI 200
Bullets: Hornady 150 FMJBT, Sierra 168 SMK

I was planning to start with the 150 FMJ and H4895 just to see what happens.
 
i've heard bullets work well.

the 4895 and the 8208 should suit you just fine...but don't discount the old 4064.

either grain boolit will work, but every rifle is different.

how far are you reaching out?
 
With (IMR) 4895 there generally ought to be soft-shoooting accuracy node around 46-46.5, and another node up around 49 grains. I use the Hornady 150 gr. FMJ-BT with cannelure.

I think my rifle likes 46 and 48.7 grains.

My BIL gets very good results with IMR 4064.
 
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I use this recipe, which I believe is what they used in WW2 but can't confirm.

Hornady 308 150Gr FMJ/BT
CCI primers
IMR 4895 49.0gr
COL. 3.29
Crimp Medium
 
With (IMR) 4895 there generally ought to be soft-shoooting accuracy node around 46-46.5, and another node up around 49 grains. I use the Hornady 150 gr. FMJ-BT with cannelure.

I think my rifle likes 46 and 48.7 grains.

My BIL gets very good results with IMR 4064.

I have great results with IMR-4064 also. All I use for my Garand. I settled on 46 grains with a Nosler 168 gr BTHP at 3.30" no crimp. Shoot well from the Garand and A3.
 
My hornady 150 grain bulk bullet load is 44.5 Varget does well at 200 yards.
H4895 load with nosler 155s was 45 grains.

The M1s I have all shoot better with better bullets.
The hornady 150s do ok in my new barelled M1 but the the nosler custom comps do much better.
I personally would see just how well your M1 shoots before going to crazy with load testing.
Start with known load data for M1 and load up some few batches and shoot it. Then report back

I have not been able to get out past 200 yards with my M1 yet. If I do it will be with my Varget and 168 grain nosler CC.
Only because the 168s just group more consistently and have delivered my highest scores.

Just a note. You don't need a full powder charge. You just need enough powder to cycle the action and provide the best accuracy you can get.
I have tried very light loads of H4895 all but one rifle will function 100% down to 38 grains. Accuracy was so so with the 150fmj but 10 ring capable with my cast bullet. That's from the most worn M1 I own.
Muzzle reads 4 throat is 4 plus.
 
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My hornady 150 grain bulk bullet load is 44.5 Varget does well at 200 yards.
H4895 load with nosler 155s was 45 grains.

The M1s I have all shoot better with better bullets.
The hornady 150s do ok in my new barelled M1 but the the nosler custom comps do much better.
I personally would see just how well your M1 shoots before going to crazy with load testing.
Start with known load data for M1 and load up some few batches and shoot it. Then report back

I have not been able to get out past 200 yards with my M1 yet. If I do it will be with my Varget and 168 grain nosler CC.
Only because the 168s just group more consistently and have delivered my highest scores.

Also to proof out your M1 the accuracy specs for a M1 shooting M2 ball is 1.77" group at 1000" inches.

What are you getting for accuracy now.
 
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My experience with the Hornady 150FMJs is that they are suitable for plinking loads or for banging steel. Honestly, I wouldn't even waste my time loading those bullets anymore. Just moving to a quality bullet like the Nosler 155 will result in considerably better groups. If you keep an eye out for sales, the Noslers can be had for 16cents each.

My Garand load for the last few seasons has been 47.0 4064 under a Nosler 155 - capable of cleaning a 200 yard SR in slow prone if everything else is done right. This load isn't anything special and I'm certain a ton of other Garand shooters use this too. Ammo is just one piece of the pie in getting a Garand to shoot right. There are other factors like trigger group lockup, if any rogue wood is touching the action where it shouldn't (common with new CMP stocks), barrel condition, loose gas cylinder, etc etc....
 
Thanks very much for the info. So far I haven't really dont any accuracy testing, just got the sights dialed in for 100 yards. I shot a group with some factory ammo which was pretty bad (probably at least 4") but I suspect I was the limiting factor. I was trying to hold this thing with my cheek bone up against my thumb, and after a while my face was feeling kind of banged up from the bone in my thumb, which may have been leading me to flinch.
 
My experience with the Hornady 150FMJs is that they are suitable for plinking loads or for banging steel. Honestly, I wouldn't even waste my time loading those bullets anymore. Just moving to a quality bullet like the Nosler 155 will result in considerably better groups. If you keep an eye out for sales, the Noslers can be had for 16cents each.

My Garand load for the last few seasons has been 47.0 4064 under a Nosler 155 - capable of cleaning a 200 yard SR in slow prone if everything else is done right. This load isn't anything special and I'm certain a ton of other Garand shooters use this too. Ammo is just one piece of the pie in getting a Garand to shoot right. There are other factors like trigger group lockup, if any rogue wood is touching the action where it shouldn't (common with new CMP stocks), barrel condition, loose gas cylinder, etc etc....

i will add for the price diffeence these days its hard not to buy the better bullets. the hornady 150s are only pennies cheaper these days.
Also as mentioned get in on the sales and promotions early and you can get some good deals.
Nosler had some end of summer deals and promotions. So i stoked up. All first run match bullets
2k 224 77s 1k 80s and 1k 69s plus 2k 155s and 1 168s for the end deal of .13 cents per bullet shipped!
yes it was a little hard to part with 1k bucks on bullets but im set for a few years now with match bullets.
I also stocked up on the 55s from hornady when the 6k round boxes where discounted to .05 each per bullet

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks very much for the info. So far I haven't really dont any accuracy testing, just got the sights dialed in for 100 yards. I shot a group with some factory ammo which was pretty bad (probably at least 4") but I suspect I was the limiting factor. I was trying to hold this thing with my cheek bone up against my thumb, and after a while my face was feeling kind of banged up from the bone in my thumb, which may have been leading me to flinch.

i know many shooters who do that....my hands are to small to get my thumb up and around to allow me to do that. I wish i could i could use the hieght to get up to the rear aperture better.
 
Thanks very much for the info. So far I haven't really dont any accuracy testing, just got the sights dialed in for 100 yards. I shot a group with some factory ammo which was pretty bad (probably at least 4") but I suspect I was the limiting factor. I was trying to hold this thing with my cheek bone up against my thumb, and after a while my face was feeling kind of banged up from the bone in my thumb, which may have been leading me to flinch.

there also is a reason the NRA/CMP high power target is the size it is. For as issued rifles and mil spec ammo 4moa is good enough for GI.
the specs for a M1 to go out the armory door is 6moa... have fun load up and go shoot
 
Which pet are you looking to shoot? The one in your avatar?

That would be a pretty hard shot at those distances...........

Hahaha noooo. Although my service rifle is capable of minute of guinea pig at 200 yards:

TARVONh.jpg
 
Thanks very much for the info. So far I haven't really dont any accuracy testing, just got the sights dialed in for 100 yards. I shot a group with some factory ammo which was pretty bad (probably at least 4") but I suspect I was the limiting factor. I was trying to hold this thing with my cheek bone up against my thumb, and after a while my face was feeling kind of banged up from the bone in my thumb, which may have been leading me to flinch.

Were you shooting with a sling?
 
I was actually shooting off bags which should be the optimum in terms of stability. I've loaded up some 150 FMJ from 45 to 46 of H4895 to try, and I'l do something similar for the 168SMK tomorrow.
 
I was actually shooting off bags which should be the optimum in terms of stability. I've loaded up some 150 FMJ from 45 to 46 of H4895 to try, and I'l do something similar for the 168SMK tomorrow.

You'll see a significant improvement using the 168s for sure.
 
I've posted this pic before, but here it is again to show what's possible with decent loads, a decent barrel, and so-so skills:

Memorial Day M1.jpg

100 yards, firing prone with sling, shooting jacket & glove. Target is the SR-1 (200 yard SR reduced for 100 yards)
168 SMK's + 46.5 gr Varget
HXP brass
CCI 200 primers
3.30" OAL

Rifle is a bone stock CMP Special, as it comes with the new Criterion barrel. I'm a big fan of SMK's and Varget, but lately have been migrating to Nosler Custom Comps. The Noslers seem to be a little more consistent in length and can often be found at a lower price vs. the SMK's.
 
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Here's the thing with the Garand, and also with the M1A.

Those rifles have an operating rod.

It's well known that a powder with too fast a burn rate, especially any of the macho high pressure loads in a fast burning powder, will BEND the OP rod.

My go-to powder for M1 Garand ( 30-06) and M1A (7.62/308 win) is IMR 4064. My inside sources tell me that the Army reloading facilities use the mil equivalent of IMR4064. If you start having chambering/cycling issues with any other powder, your OP rod may have gotten bent.
 
Here's the thing with the Garand, and also with the M1A.

Those rifles have an operating rod.

It's well known that a powder with too fast a burn rate, especially any of the macho high pressure loads in a fast burning powder, will BEND the OP rod.

My go-to powder for M1 Garand ( 30-06) and M1A (7.62/308 win) is IMR 4064. My inside sources tell me that the Army reloading facilities use the mil equivalent of IMR4064. If you start having chambering/cycling issues with any other powder, your OP rod may have gotten bent.

Agreed.

H4895 (what the op used) and IMR4895 are also acceptable Garand powders.

I use 4064 for mine.
 
Here's the thing with the Garand, and also with the M1A.

Those rifles have an operating rod.

It's well known that a powder with too fast a burn rate, especially any of the macho high pressure loads in a fast burning powder, will BEND the OP rod.

My go-to powder for M1 Garand ( 30-06) and M1A (7.62/308 win) is IMR 4064. My inside sources tell me that the Army reloading facilities use the mil equivalent of IMR4064. If you start having chambering/cycling issues with any other powder, your OP rod may have gotten bent.

There really is no reason to use a powder out side the burn rate deemed safe for M1s. Also there's not much reason to load them to max or even in the upper ranges unless your shooting out to 600 yards in matches. Then the velocity will help buck the wind to some extent.
I have settled on 45grains of Varget for the only real reason is it groups nice and my powder drop seems to drop 45 grains of Varget very very consistently? I have run H4895 to as low as 36 grains and it's as accurate as I can hold them. 38 cycles 100%
 
I was actually shooting off bags which should be the optimum in terms of stability. I've loaded up some 150 FMJ from 45 to 46 of H4895 to try, and I'l do something similar for the 168SMK tomorrow.

Honestly I'm going to say this is not the case with the M1.
I achieve my best results shooting prone with a sling and use a sand bag to support my forarm.
I have proven to myself that the M1 will shoot different POI with the location of the bag on the stock. Also keeping a consistent sling pressure helps.
Also consider your ability with iron sights.
On a very good day I can squeak down into the 2+ moa area average is more 3-3.5 that's prone with a sling. I start my surplus rifle accuracy satisfaction rate at holding the black. Then work on holding the 10 ring. I only have 2 of 6 garands I feel confident that with almost any ammo will hold black. The others will need reloads and a good day on my end to put them all in the black.

They will all pass the 1.77" test with M2ball at 1000" INCHES
The test requires 3 warm up then 5 consecutive shots. If you shoot your M1s enough you will start to see why they gave the M1 3 warm up shots.
1.77" @ 1000"(27.7yds) is about 6.8MOA ish
Which was good enough for GI
 
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+1 for best groups prone with sling. Granted, this is with a quality sling, a shooting jacket over thick fleece, and a shooting glove. Shooting via a benchrest rest is OK for a quick look at groups, but I think the POI is different and the groups slightly better with the sling.
 
+1 for best groups prone with sling. Granted, this is with a quality sling, a shooting jacket over thick fleece, and a shooting glove. Shooting via a benchrest rest is OK for a quick look at groups, but I think the POI is different and the groups slightly better with the sling.

i have to admit i do not wear my jacket when testing loads. I often just use a USGI web sling (currently using danish web slings they are just better overall) Heavy sweat shirt and often just a leather work glove.
Im just to lazy t drag out my gear. If I have time to actually practice i will gear up and adjust my sights for poi while geared up and in position
 
Last I knew a sling properly setup is more stable than a sandbag or a bench rest. Also different POI in prone as opposed to sitting at a bench, something with a different sight picture??? I have been out of the "fun" shooting for a bit
 
Last I knew a sling properly setup is more stable than a sandbag or a bench rest. Also different POI in prone as opposed to sitting at a bench, something with a different sight picture??? I have been out of the "fun" shooting for a bit

using the GI web sling or 1907 sling loop will give you a very solid platform.

 
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+1 for best groups prone with sling. Granted, this is with a quality sling, a shooting jacket over thick fleece, and a shooting glove. Shooting via a benchrest rest is OK for a quick look at groups, but I think the POI is different and the groups slightly better with the sling.


+1..... A properly configured sling will pull the butt stock into your shoulder and keep it there which is important; something more difficult to do on the bench.
 
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