Need advice for reloading setup

[massnee]

First let me say that I have done some searching on the site regarding my questions. It seems that my needs are different from most.

I do a lot of plinking with .223. I would like to begin reloading for plinking purposes. . I am not interested in producing target loads. My goal is to reload at a cost savings. And since I shoot about 75 rounds of .223 a week I would like to be able to produce large quantities of ammunition. I would be happy with producing 150 rounds an hour.

While I desire to spend as little as possible on a press I do not want to purchase something that will not get the job done. What press should I get?

 

[GTOShootr]

I'm also getting into reloading .223, it must be that time of year. I know there is a group of Highpower guys here (PMD too!). Since I'm looking for AR specific info, I'd be interested in what they use and what they do for their average ammo (as opposed to those loads for 600).

I've been looking at a bunch of rifle reloading instruction and have a feeling the Dillon 550 or Redding T7 might be popular presses for those that are pretty serious. I'm also curious about how much case prep is really required for factory or just better than factory quality (not Benchrest stuff).

 

[Dan S]

I size all my rifle brass on a single stage press. But, my rifles don't have loose chambers, so, I'm more confident in the single stage sizing. The I tumble the brass again to remove the lube. The brass needs to be checked for length, and trimmed if necessary. The it's on to the Dillon 550 for priming, charging and bullet seating. For short range ammo, I use H335 for powder. Nice flowing ball powder. This is for bullets up to 55 grain. Over 55 grain, it's either Varget or RL 15. Proper neck tension is all you need, no crimping is required.

 

[GTOShootr]

Dan, you full length resize them, what die do you use? Also, do you use the Dillon powder measure?

Your method was pretty much along the lines of what I was going to do.

 

[highlander]

I had an AR at one time use standard procedure for loading 223,
though I bought a head space die or at least I think that's what it's called to check my cases. I did this on my 550 and the same for my 650 though I don't own an AR at present i still have 2 bolt actions in 223 and use the die for them

 

[EddieCoyle]

First let me say that I have done some searching on the site regarding my questions. It seems that my needs are different from most.

I do a lot of plinking with .223. I would like to begin reloading for plinking purposes. . I am not interested in producing target loads. My goal is to reload at a cost savings. And since I shoot about 75 rounds of .223 a week I would like to be able to produce large quantities of ammunition. I would be happy with producing 150 rounds an hour.

While I desire to spend as little as possible on a press I do not want to purchase something that will not get the job done. What press should I get?

Hi Massnee,

At 75 rounds per week, you're not really into progressive territory. You're probably better off with a single stage or turret press. If you want to spend as little as possible, you can get a Lee 3-hole Turret press with manual index for about $50 and leave it set up for .223. You'll quickly get to the point where you'll be able to load 150 per hour.

If you decide instead that you want something good, you can go with an RCBS ($170-ish) or Lyman ($125) turret press.

 

[Dan S]

Steve,
Sizing die is an RCBS, full length, not a small base die. With H335, the Dillon measure is just marvelous. Actually I use the Dillon measure with RL 15 too, Varget grains are just a bit larger, and I use a different measure with that powder. Should you decide to buy a Dillon carbide sizing die, remember, that you still need to lube the cases. The carbide die is strictly for longevity.
I do prefer the mass sizing, and tumbling to just running them through the Dillon for everything. As I said, my chamber, while it is done with a SAMII spec reamer, is held to the low end of the headspace measurement. I know that for a fact, as you might guess. With your JP upper, yours could be on the tighter side also. Make sure your case length doesn't exceed 1.760 otherwise you can push the shoulder back a bit, creating a mushroom at the shoulder/body junction. This WILL NOT chamber!
Remember, if you need a forward assist, you don't want that round in the chamber.

 

[GTOShootr]

I have a Rock River upper, it just uses a JP brake and trigger. I ordered a set of Dillon steel dies to start. I was curious if your full length die utilized the neck bushings due to your tight chamber. I use Dillon case lube and I have a Wilson trimmer and a few other things coming from Sinclair.

 

[Dan S]

For a semi auto, I wouldn't use the bushing dies. The bushing doesn't fully size the neck, even though the shoulder is bumped. The bushing rests against a portion of the body, therefore can't go all the way to the shoulder. I think it's about 1/8 to 3/16ths of an inch that doesn't get sized. They're great for bolt guns though.

 

[Scrivener]

Because I have both an old Rock Chucker and a 550, I use a carbide die in the RC to size the lubed cases. THEN I load them on the 550 with a Lee FCD in Station #4.

I use Re 7 or Accurate 2230 and 2520.