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My Remington 1903A3!
- Thread starter DW357
- Start date
Thanks for letting me try her out. She sure shoots well!
I'm sure with better sunlight I can shoot a little better. Part of the problem was not aiming in the same exact spot since I couldn't cycle it without moving my eyes away. I'm sure with practice I'll get better.
Good on the screws. I definitely need to check them for tightness. I just used M-pro 7 to clean the bore but maybe I could use some bore foaming copper cleaner (safely without ruining the finish)? I didn't disassemble it yet except for the bolt.
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Lots of fresh lead on the center of that plate. Looks like a real shooter!
I really like Varget and 168 SMK's in Garands and Springfields. 46.5 grains and 3.30" OAL perfect for both. I think the .5 grains between my load and yours is negligible. HXP brass holding up very well with this load. Accidental luck that I found out Varget was good for these. I had dropped Varget in favor of Benchmark for .223 and ended up with extra jars of Varget and no use for them. Now they are no longer 'extra'.
Looks like you did very well once you returned the lemon typewriter.![[smile]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/001.gif "Smile [smile]")
Thanks. It was actually 46.2 gr lol. I made these a while ago when I first started loading rifle (for the Garand). I no longer have Varget just IMR-4064 which seemed to shoot just as well if not slightly better (in my Garand anyway).
Wow well that makes sense! Glad I got you guys around with all of this knowledge. I'll have to order an A and/or B sight. These easy to remove/install? Didn't really look over the front sight too much. Thanks!
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And you can certainly shoot well too! Ringing steel no problem.
You need to decide on what you want to do.
I am guessing you are using a center hold so if that's how you shoot then stick with it. I grew up on center hold with the "science" behind it that you don't know the size of the target. Battle zero is a different ball game.
The 6 o'clock hold is just fine for shooting a known target size such as the the SR 1.
I used the 6 o'clock hold for several years shooting the M1 .....but I will tell you I was having trouble with consistent scores. Old marine at my club said center hold. My scores have stayed up since. Also found wider front sights to help greatly.
That said decide on your hold and what zero you want. 6 o'clock, center, flat tire, frame,
If you want 100 yard zero set up a target @ 25 yards take a few shots. Now if you are going with center hold/ poa=poi @25 yards you will be about .5" low. So now you need to measure how many inches of correction you need.
You can do this at 100 yards also if you like. By the sounds of it you shooting about 4-5" high?
ok so if you wanted to be point of impact to be point of aim at your 120 yard target with your rifle set on the 200 setting your FRONT sight would need to be aprox .030" taller.
now all this is rough estimate...you need to adjust your zero to your ammo you will use the most and to your hold/distance.
as for front sights The few I bought from numerich SUCKED you could pound out a better sight yourself! mine where also flimsy and could be bent with fingers. Numerich provided a full refund.
I bought a few sights from Bill Bentz got the .100" USMC style front sight and USMC style front hood/sight protector. I have my rifle zeroed at 200 on 200 when i shoot at 100 I just use "flat tire" hold on the SR1. I "zeroed my rifle to 150 grain bullets running a tad over 2600 fps. My basic load for M1 and other 30-06 I shoot.
if you want to use 25 yard to figure out a rough zero change you will need aprox .030" of sight hieght change to move impact 1". your average rifle sight correction is aprox .008"@100yd=1"
looks something like this on paper amount of error you need in correction X sight radius. ex: 3" correction X 28" (I think thats the sight radius on the A3)=84 then divide by target distance in INCHES 100 yards is 3600" = .023" correction needed.
have fun
here in post 4 is a decent chart on the MOA differences between the rear sight settings...its darn close and has helped me out more than a few times when shooting diffewrent ammo and cast.
http://forums.thecmp.org/showthread.php?t=54746
I am guessing you are using a center hold so if that's how you shoot then stick with it. I grew up on center hold with the "science" behind it that you don't know the size of the target. Battle zero is a different ball game.
The 6 o'clock hold is just fine for shooting a known target size such as the the SR 1.
I used the 6 o'clock hold for several years shooting the M1 .....but I will tell you I was having trouble with consistent scores. Old marine at my club said center hold. My scores have stayed up since. Also found wider front sights to help greatly.
That said decide on your hold and what zero you want. 6 o'clock, center, flat tire, frame,
If you want 100 yard zero set up a target @ 25 yards take a few shots. Now if you are going with center hold/ poa=poi @25 yards you will be about .5" low. So now you need to measure how many inches of correction you need.
You can do this at 100 yards also if you like. By the sounds of it you shooting about 4-5" high?
ok so if you wanted to be point of impact to be point of aim at your 120 yard target with your rifle set on the 200 setting your FRONT sight would need to be aprox .030" taller.
now all this is rough estimate...you need to adjust your zero to your ammo you will use the most and to your hold/distance.
as for front sights The few I bought from numerich SUCKED you could pound out a better sight yourself! mine where also flimsy and could be bent with fingers. Numerich provided a full refund.
I bought a few sights from Bill Bentz got the .100" USMC style front sight and USMC style front hood/sight protector. I have my rifle zeroed at 200 on 200 when i shoot at 100 I just use "flat tire" hold on the SR1. I "zeroed my rifle to 150 grain bullets running a tad over 2600 fps. My basic load for M1 and other 30-06 I shoot.
if you want to use 25 yard to figure out a rough zero change you will need aprox .030" of sight hieght change to move impact 1". your average rifle sight correction is aprox .008"@100yd=1"
looks something like this on paper amount of error you need in correction X sight radius. ex: 3" correction X 28" (I think thats the sight radius on the A3)=84 then divide by target distance in INCHES 100 yards is 3600" = .023" correction needed.
have fun
here in post 4 is a decent chart on the MOA differences between the rear sight settings...its darn close and has helped me out more than a few times when shooting diffewrent ammo and cast.
http://forums.thecmp.org/showthread.php?t=54746
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Thanks for all of that great info mac. So the sights from Numrich suck? Fingers crossed that I get a good one lol. I also came across that Bill Bentz guy on other forums and sent him an email inquiring about his front sight blades that he makes. I wonder what he charges for them and if he's still making/selling them? Hopefully he'll get back to me.
I prefer a center hold but can deal with a 6 o clock hold as long as I don't need to hold almost a foot below the target in order to hit (which is what my E sight blade is making me do).
Bill is very good and makes a very good sight....crisp clean straight lines....perfect. I don't even remember what I paid? As for numeric the sights I received look like medieval black iron smith pounded out in a hurry. crooked, nicked sides... just awful. they where like 6$ each. Numerich is a hit or miss source of parts BUT they tend to have a lot of parts. what can you do.
I love the "dannish" web sings they have.
If you want to play with electrolysis use arm and hammer washing soda . Works very good for rust removal.
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Bill Bentz is great to deal with and his sights are very high quality. I have his USMC front sight on my 1903. I made the hood as Bill didn't have his dies made at the time.
Nice! Looks like a much wider sight too?
Bill makes the nice wide USMC style front sight. .100" wide.... so much better than the thin sight. Love mine along with the larger front sight protector.
Horizontal string almost vanished after switching to USMC front sight. Doesn't get lost in the bulls eye either.
For the record th USMC wide sight was not used on the 1903a3....not even sure if the Marines ever where issued A3?
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I just let some bore foaming cleaner sit for just over an hour. holy crap just a giant blue glob of foam. Scrubbed it ran some patches through it now I have more bore foaming cleaner sitting in again. After that I might even use some Hoppes copper remover if I really want to stink up my house...
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Yeah that stinks. I might have to put a WTB ad over on the CMP forums.
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Yeah that stinks. I might have to put a WTB ad over on the CMP forums.
It will but it will take some fouling shots to get it to settle down. My 1903a3 was a former known match shooter and claimed he would shoot the entire season with out cleaning...nothing more than a oil patch to keep rust away. He told me the last season he shot the A3 he went about 600 rounds.
One of my garands took 3 weekends and about 200 patches to come clean. Ended up with a gray bore.
See it's my experience that most bores that look nice and shiny are nothing more than polished copper and powder fouling....
If you like a 6 o-clock hold, the standard width front sights should be fine and possibly desirable. I shoot my best groups with my 03 NM, which has quite a narrow front sight. I have an AR Krieger barreled service rifle I built- forget the dimension but front sight is fairly wide. I thought it was pretty accurate until I began to beat it with the 1933 '03.
Thicker front sight should be just the ticket for center hold or flat tire hold. Depends on your preference- surprisingly I seem to like a narrower sight but that's all for 6 o-clock hold.
Thicker front sight should be just the ticket for center hold or flat tire hold. Depends on your preference- surprisingly I seem to like a narrower sight but that's all for 6 o-clock hold.
Good point. I really didn't mind the thin sight blade as I had no problems hitting my steel consistently. But I didn't like aiming almost 12" below the steel with 150 gr ammo. I'll have to shoot it more and make up my mind.
Damn I think I'll be cleaning this rifle forever ![[laugh]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/012.gif "Laugh [laugh]")
The Hoppes soaked patches keep coming out blue and black - which is after 2 one hour soakings with the bore foam. Going to let the Hoppes sit in the bore overnight....
The Hoppes soaked patches keep coming out blue and black - which is after 2 one hour soakings with the bore foam. Going to let the Hoppes sit in the bore overnight....Yeah the bore foam and Hoppes are both copper removers so hopefully if I use them enough it will get somewhat clean lol. I'm not going to kill myself getting it spotless as it seems to shoot okay as it is.
Though I always wanted to try one of those homemade electronic cleaners using a battery and a metal rod etc.
