M1A ejects spent brass, fails to chamber new round

fog

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Hi all,

Let me start off by mentioning that, other than my 10/22, I am fairly new to rifles, and have only been into shooting for a few years, so I am still pretty wet behind the ears here.

I picked up a new Springfield M1A Scout a bit ago, and took it to the range for about the third time this weekend. I experienced what seemed like an odd issue to me -- after each shot, the spent casing would be ejected just fine, but the bolt would then close without chambering a new round.

After a few rounds, I realized, with embarrassment, that after taking it apart for cleaning last time, I had apparently failed to tighten the gas plug. :emoji_face_palm: It took several turns to get it tight. I reasoned that this was the problem, allowing gas to bleed off the front.

After tightening it down, however, the problem did not go away.

It also seemed like an odd issue. I would expect that if it was properly ejecting rounds, the bolt was traveling enough that it should chamber a new round. Cycling the action by hand chambered the next round out of the magazine without difficulty.

And then, the whole thing jammed... After one shot, the bolt failed to come back, and I couldn't get it open by hand. It would travel perhaps a quarter-inch, but then refused to go further. Even apply a good bit of muscle, it wouldn't budge. Another shooter and his wife at the range helped me take a look, but they were also unable to figure out what was wrong.

When I got it home on the bench, a gentle application of a mallet got everything unwedged. I took everything apart to inspect, clean, and re-grease as needed, but nothing looked obviously wrong to my untrained eye.

The ammo was Winchester 7.62x51 "Service Grade" 147gr, stamped WMA 17. I have no idea if it played any role.

Does anyone have any ideas for what I should look at? Could it be bad ammo, or some sort of residual problem from me initially shooting without the gas plug tightened--or does it sound like a more serious problem?
 
Have you swapped out any bits or is it as is from the factory? Roughly how many rounds through it? Is it cycling fine manually now that you've stripped it down and reassembled it?

Ammo should be fine, and the gas system can be shut off so you should be okay there. Also the gas system is a fairly robust one so no need to take it apart every time you clean the rifle, I only clean mine every 500 rounds or so and I've never had any issues.

Sounds like something is binding somewhere, the spring/spring guide combo would be the first thing I looked at as the culprit as I've read elsewhere of others occasionally having issues with them. Given the amount of money we spend to acquire these rifles ~$50(IIRC) plus shipping to replace the combo is nothing to possibly sort out your issue.

Best of luck.






*thinks to self* Reminds me, I should order that fancy pants gas piston soon(no particular reason).
 
Check your op rod,make sure it not bent at all, and check the bolt roller. Springfield some time ago had a problem with bolt rollers, I know because i sent mine back due to it shearing off of the bolt roller lug. They replaced it no charge. Hope this is not your case....
 
Thanks for the thorough replies, all!

Have you swapped out any bits or is it as is from the factory? Roughly how many rounds through it? Is it cycling fine manually now that you've stripped it down and reassembled it?

Completely stock; maybe 150 rounds through it.

I hadn't though to test its function manually, but I'm glad you asked, because the answer to your third question appears to be "No"!

IMG_0141.jpeg IMG_0225.jpeg

Cartridges are clearly not ending up in the... cup thing with the extractor and firing pin (I don't know the right name)... so they either bind up, or, if they do make it in, they're not seated right so the bolt doesn't close. I didn't have any of this happen at the range yesterday, so this is seemingly a progression of the trouble I had over the weekend.

All I did was field strip it, wipe out obvious carbon mess with a little CLP, and then re-apply a light bit of grease where I inadvertently wiped it off with the CLP... So I didn't do anything too nutty with fully disassembling parts.

Something seems pretty off.

Did you clean the gas system with a solvent/cleaner of any kind?

I did naively wipe down the piston with CLP, but, upon reading that it was meant to be run dry, I wiped it dry afterwards. I read that before I sprayed anything in there, so it's otherwise unmolested.

Springfield some time ago had a problem with bolt rollers, I know because i sent mine back due to it shearing off of the bolt roller lug.

I read about this a bit issue; it made me realize how little I knew about this class of rifle; I hadn't even seen it before. Thankfully, the bolt roller appears intact, and isn't overtravelling as some experienced.

Edit: The op rod does not appear bent, but it does have some wear on the paint. I'm assuming that's normal just from its movement?
 
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First thing Where are tou located
You put 150 rounds through it?
When did the problem first show up.?

2nd
Stop taking it taking it appart
Make sure what needs to be tight is and lube where it directs you. Nothing more nothing less.
Now buy at least some known quality M80 ball ammo . The PPU stuff is good as is the surplus german stuff.
Now load tour mag with 1 round install the mag and make sure its seated. Rock it in and make sure it SNAPS in. Shoot the rifle. Does the bolt lock back?
If not call SAI and get a RA—-return authorization . Box it up and send it back.
They will fix it.

The fact that winchester calls this “service grade” makes me go ......why not just call it 762 NATO . Not that its the ammo but I always have doubts with ammo that has a marketing tag on it such as “service grade”
 
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Thanks for the thorough replies, all!



Completely stock; maybe 150 rounds through it.

I hadn't though to test its function manually, but I'm glad you asked, because the answer to your third question appears to be "No"!

View attachment 296165 View attachment 296166

Cartridges are clearly not ending up in the... cup thing with the extractor and firing pin (I don't know the right name)... so they either bind up, or, if they do make it in, they're not seated right so the bolt doesn't close. I didn't have any of this happen at the range yesterday, so this is seemingly a progression of the trouble I had over the weekend.

All I did was field strip it, wipe out obvious carbon mess with a little CLP, and then re-apply a light bit of grease where I inadvertently wiped it off with the CLP... So I didn't do anything too nutty with fully disassembling parts.

Something seems pretty off.



I did naively wipe down the piston with CLP, but, upon reading that it was meant to be run dry, I wiped it dry afterwards. I read that before I sprayed anything in there, so it's otherwise unmolested.



I read about this a bit issue; it made me realize how little I knew about this class of rifle; I hadn't even seen it before. Thankfully, the bolt roller appears intact, and isn't overtravelling as some experienced.

Edit: The op rod does not appear bent, but it does have some wear on the paint. I'm assuming that's normal just from its movement?
Could be bad mag, bent feed lips?
 
When you tightened the gas plug did you "good and tight" it or did you use a torque wrench? Did you use a cylinder wrench while tightening it? How tight was the gas cylinder lock before replacing the plug?

Are you able to lock the bolt back manually or is something impeding it? Try cycling the action unloaded and see if the locking lugs seat correctly.

Is the magazine the one that shipped with the rifle or used/3rd party? Notice any signs of damage to the spent brass prior to the rifle not functioning?

Lastly if all else fails you could give us an idea, specificity not required, of the general area you live in(or the range you belong to) and maybe one of us could give it a peek to try and help.

Edit: mac beat me to a few points while I was looking for info elsewhere. [laugh]
 
When you tightened the gas plug did you "good and tight" it or did you use a torque wrench? Did you use a cylinder wrench while tightening it? How tight was the gas cylinder lock before replacing the plug?

Are you able to lock the bolt back manually or is something impeding it? Try cycling the action unloaded and see if the locking lugs seat correctly.

Is the magazine the one that shipped with the rifle or used/3rd party? Notice any signs of damage to the spent brass prior to the rifle not functioning?

Lastly if all else fails you could give us an idea, specificity not required, of the general area you live in(or the range you belong to) and maybe one of us could give it a peek to try and help.

Edit: mac beat me to a few points while I was looking for info elsewhere. [laugh]
i laways forget about the spindle/gas valve. Did you play with that OP?
 
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Also, check the gas piston, i think it can be accidently put in BACKWARDS. And pull the bolt back, lock it open, then tilt the rifle up and down. You should be able to hear the piston slide back and forth in the gas chamber......In regards to the bolt roller. You have to take the bolt out of the rifle and make sure the roller stays attached to the bolt roller lug. Mine sheared off the retaining clip inside the roller much like a wheel bearing on a car, it chewed up the inside of the roller causing all kinds of overtravel on the roller lug.....
 
There's a flat bit on the piston so if the OP got it in backwards he needs to stop reassembling his rifle with a sledge hammer. [laugh] You can also look through the gas port and watch the piston travel.

What concerns me is in the OPs' second pic, I can't tell where the right side lug locks up if that's grease or wear. If wear, it's certainly excessive given the amount of rounds through the rifle when comparing it to mine which has a few thousand through it and no signs of wear in that area.
 
Thanks for the thorough replies, all!



Completely stock; maybe 150 rounds through it.

I hadn't though to test its function manually, but I'm glad you asked, because the answer to your third question appears to be "No"!

View attachment 296165 View attachment 296166

Cartridges are clearly not ending up in the... cup thing with the extractor and firing pin (I don't know the right name)... so they either bind up, or, if they do make it in, they're not seated right so the bolt doesn't close. I didn't have any of this happen at the range yesterday, so this is seemingly a progression of the trouble I had over the weekend.

All I did was field strip it, wipe out obvious carbon mess with a little CLP, and then re-apply a light bit of grease where I inadvertently wiped it off with the CLP... So I didn't do anything too nutty with fully disassembling parts.

Something seems pretty off.



I did naively wipe down the piston with CLP, but, upon reading that it was meant to be run dry, I wiped it dry afterwards. I read that before I sprayed anything in there, so it's otherwise unmolested.



I read about this a bit issue; it made me realize how little I knew about this class of rifle; I hadn't even seen it before. Thankfully, the bolt roller appears intact, and isn't overtravelling as some experienced.

Edit: The op rod does not appear bent, but it does have some wear on the paint. I'm assuming that's normal just from its movement?
Your picture of the cartridge feeding is normal.
The cartridge extractor groove/head does not slide into the bolt face. The bolt will drive the case into the chamber and the extractor will snap over it as the bolt closes.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LcRTQbpHrTM
 
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